Idaho Doug's Sunrader build

[IdahoDoug]

So, got the sleeper wall panels out without drama and in one piece.  I laid them aside as I may use them as templates later.  Ceiling will be white fabric over soft foam, over the hard insulation board.  Sides will be white wall panels. Or, I may simply line the entire sleeper area with fabric - walls and ceiling - for a softer and quieter place to sleep.  I ordered enough of the material, I think.

 

Wow, the guy who installed the carpet in the sleeper must have gotten bored with the staple gun just to see how many he could use on his shift!  My word that took a lot of prying and pulling to get it out.  I also pulled the vinyl above the wraparound windows off the ceiling and was about to pull the ceiling down when dinner guests arrived.  I'll look forward to that tomorrow, I guess.  Here's what it looks like under the paneling and carpet:

 

BEFORE:

 

 

AFTER:

[IdahoDoug]

Exciting package arrived today.  I am upgrading the bathroom a bit and wanted to have a small radiant heater, or floor heater but have not been able to figure out how due to the wood panel fiberglassed to the bottom pan.  The other plan is a heated and illuminated vanity mirror.  Unsure it would fit (huge), I ordered one anyway.  It fits!  Super excited.  20" X 28", it will probably be the only light needed in that small and white space. 

[WME]

Don't know if it's too late in the grand scheme of things, but take a look at 12v holding tank heaters. Maybe not a heated bathroom but at least a warm floor.

Install between fiberglass floor and plywood backing.

[IdahoDoug]

Thanks - yes I was looking at those and engine block heaters.  Unfortunately, I can't easily get that wood off the bottom of the shower.  It's glued on and would be a nightmare to remove.  Then the reverse would be a huge mistake if I reassemble and when its reinstalled I have a creaky flexing bathroom because the floor wood support isn't lined up to the Sunrader floor.  So I gave it up.  

 

Also the tank heaters (which I may install on my tanks) have an automatic thermostat that shuts them off at various temps, the warmest I found was 74.  So the floor would be barely heated and still cool to bare feet.  There are a variety of floor heaters, those snow melting sidewalk pads all over the internet, etc.  It was a cool idea, but nothing matched what I needed, which is a stick on pad that I could thermostatically control and heats up to perhaps 110 degrees.  Most have no thermostat and shut off at 100C or 200C.  Believe me, I was looking up the melting temps of fiberglas, etc.  But at the end of the day, it's an issue with the shower floor structure and the possibility of a flexy and squeaky bathroom floor that stopped me.

 

 

[WME]

Can't do much for the mechanical issues. But for the future, the solar groups I follow use the tank heaters for their LifePo4 batteries. Short out the built in thermostat, then use one of these to set the desired temp range 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08W2BYG2L/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?pd_rd_i=B08W2BYG2L&pd_rd_w=BGt2P&content-id=amzn1.sym.eb7c1ac5-7c51-4df5-ba34-ca810f1f119a&pf_rd_p=eb7c1ac5-7c51-4df5-ba34-ca810f1f119a&pf_rd_r=G6DY6CJYA66J7TT9HNES&pd_rd_wg=O9RR3&pd_rd_r=5394c21e-1d68-4d1f-8cdd-db1cf608c2ad&s=home-garden&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&th=1

[IdahoDoug]

Hey, that's a great idea, WME.  Thanks for the tip!

 

So, not much happening on the Sunrader.  I caught a bug and its cold outside so I left it alone for a few days.  Today I ripped out the ceiling on the sleeper:

 

I scraped all the remaining foam off the ceiling, and now have to hit it with the sander (yes, laying on my back - yippee) to prep it for fresh glue and fabric.  

 

I also had a major score in the seating department.  Many years ago, I discovered what I believe to be the finest producton car seats in the world.  Considering I am a former product developer for GM and Lexus, that's saying something.  The E46 BMW M3 has the most supportive and adjustable seats I've ever found and they're in my E46.  Once I bought the Sunrader back in May 2023, I knew I had to stuff a pair of these amazing thrones into it.  Alas they are as rare as hens teeth in the scrapyards and people want $950 for these today on ebay (plus $300 shipping).  But I kept dutifully making the 75 mile round trip to the nearest "You Pull It" scrapyard where you pay $32.50 for a pair of seats whether they're out of a 200k mile minivan or a Bentley.  I can see from their website when they get a new BMW 3 Series, which prompts me to drive out there and take a look.  Probably 30 have come in and all had just the normal leather seat.  

 

Today - score!  I drove out and found this one had the optional sport seats.  With electric seats it's no easy task, either as you can't move them to get at the floor bolts. And the scrapyard won't let you take a 12v battery out into the yard due to the danger of a fire from a smashed car with loose wires. However I learned on the BMW forum how to wire my electric screwdriver's 12v battery to the right terminal and how to make a little wiring harness.  It worked like a charm and for a whopping $32.50 they're sitting in the dining room:

 

 

I left the muddy cat prints on the one as a joke for my wife to see when she gets home.  We're cat lovers, and the track is kinda cool to see for us.  These are heated leather, have extendable thigh supports, excellent side bolsters, and power adjustable lumbar spine support.  I'll let them warm up for a couple days, then clean, condition and store them for later.  Super excited - was starting to think I would not find a pair as people are aware of these seats nowadays.

[IdahoDoug]

Mission creep.  That's what I call it when I plan to do something and then another thing rears its head.  Today, I planned on prepping the sleeper ceiling and hanging the foam board in there.  I knew the front window leakage over the years had caused some swelling and issues in the left front corner, so I took a better look.  Did some quick research to see how that floor base is secured and was delighted to find another person found it was just secured around the edges - fiberglassed in at front edge, and a bit of glue around the left and right edges.  They criticized "Toyota" for securing it so poorly.

 

Perfect, I'll just zip that damaged area out and butt in another piece but secure it with construction adhesive.  Ran the grinder along the front edge - 60 seconds and it was free of the fiberglas.  Drew a line to remove the damaged area and cut that to the fiberglas.  Then the moment of truth.  Aggghhhh!  Mine is completely secured to the fiberglas with resin or a glue.  

 

2 hours of chipping and grinding later, I got the piece completely out and down to the fiberglas.  Put the new piece in and now it's drying overnight with a bunch of weight on it to keep the floor one aligned surface:

 

 

Heat lamp on it and the weights:

 

Not looking forward to the next steps. I need to lay on my back with a sander against the ceiling. Then, I need to remove the windows in order to lay the fabric and 1/2" foam rubber padding down properly so the rubber seals go atop the fabric.  I'll just cover the open windows with plastic for winter and deal with it in the spring when temps are warmer. No way I'm going to successfully reinstall, plus I'm planning to make fresh windows by heating plexiglass and that's a spring activity.  

 

I'm getting excited as to how the sleeper will be when completed.  The side walls robbed a half inch on each side by not being secured, plus they were poorly insulated.  I'm going to make wood window surrounds for the aluminum frames to push against and securely seal.  But the rest of the sides, top and forward face will be fabric over 1/2" foam rubber, over 1/2" foam insulation.  Should be slightly larger, much softer, quieter, and warmer.

[IdahoDoug]

Glad to have that behind me.  I pulled both sleeper wraparound windows, then sanded the sleeper ceiling.  Wow.  Used military desert dust goggles which worked great to keep it out of my eyes.  So much stuff was falling on my face it nearly obscured my vision and when I shook me head to clear it, I could feel it running into my ears, etc.  Miserable. 

 

In the course of this, I discovered a serious issue with the sleeper construction.  The left and right edges of the floor are not caulked.  This allows anything spilled in the sleeper (or window leaks) to get water past the floor panel and down into a large channel that will hold at least a gallon of fluid on each side.  And there's no where for it to drain out.  My plan is to caulk these gaps on both sides, and  ensure that any substantial leak or spill will not cause long term water to sit down there.  You'd never know about this unless you lift a piece of the sleeper floor up.  So, I suggest others remove the mattress and caulk that floorboard against the side.  The front edge is fiberglassed in, so that's fine.

 

I ordered the EPDM 1 piece rubber window seal and will be sourcing plexiglas and making my own new wraparound windows - bending them over a pipe with a heat gun, then trimming to size by laying the old one on the bent piece to trace.  Anyone see a problem if I bed the seal and window with a modern polyurethane auto windshield sealant?  

 

Some pics.  Had to clean a few inches around the windows so I could tape plastic over them for winter.  That's 30 years of accumulated grundge,  I used window foaming cleaner with ammonia and a scrubby dish sponge. 

 

 

 

I know others have simply sealed these up, but I kind of like the trademark Sunrader look enough to work hard to preserve the appearance.  I think the panoramic view while taking a nap will be worth it, though I've yet to experience ANY form of relaxation in my Sundrader!!!!

[linda s]

Plexiglass bends with less inside cracks and deformation if heated from both sides. Aim another heat gun to run inside the pipe. Even if you get the bend to match the original exactly using the old window on top as a guide will always give you a smaller length to the new one. Add an extra quarter inch to the length on each of the long sides and adjust from there.

What window seal did you buy. Windshield sealant seems extreme and messy. Mistakes can't be fixed. RV windows are usually bedded in butyl tape. Easy to clean up and lasts for many years. My 86 Sunrader still doesn't leak and it's just the rubber original seal. Put in properly they are pretty fool proof

Linda S

[IdahoDoug]

Excellent tip on the dual heat - thanks.  So, my plan is to cut the plexi roughly to shape - leaving several inches in every direction. I'll then bend it to the angle, and it looks like since the front portion "leans back" I'll need to accomplish that so the plane of the side and plane of the front are properly oriented. Then, I'll draw the outline of the old one on the bent piece for reference, cut it down to within 1/2" inch and then continue trimming until the piece is uniformly matching the hole.  I expect this to take a couple hours to shape each piece.  

 

I got the EPDM "Trim-Lok" seal version which has an integrated "key" you pry into place once the window is in.  I agree with you the rubber *should* seal it properly and for decades, but I think I'll put a sealant as yet undecided down in the crevice of the seal.  I am going to be heartbroken if those windows leak and others have had it happen even with new windows and new seals.  I have to admit i may not be any more capable than those folks and the sealant will take up any slack.  Also, there is huge variation in thickness on my fiberglas edges - a quarter inch for a third of it and 3/16 for much of it.  Considering the pressure of driving 65 in a driving rain pushing water against those seals, I just don't want to deal with all the work I'm putting into the sleeper getting ruined.  It's white fabric and may instantly and permanently stain. And considering it's where we sleep, it would be pretty disheartening to arrive somewhere and find we have wet bedding. I may talk to or even pay a window guy (they'll have tools I don't) to put them in once I cut them to size.  I live in a small town where I may take only $50 cash for an experienced window guy to do it after hours if I come to him, etc.

 

[WME]

Take construction paper and tape it to the old window, mark it and cut to shape. The you can lay the pattern on the flat plexi and adjust the size to your plans.

[IdahoDoug]

That's a good idea as well!  So tonight nothing special as I went to a buddy's birthday party.  Got home and was only motivated to caulk the new floor piece in the sleeper, and both edges against any future water intrusion.  I'm also going to paint the sleeper floor with outdoor grade water proof (resistant) paint.  So any future leaks won't do instant damage to the wood floor.  Surprised Sunrader did not bother to paint this, nor the floor wood.  A few bucks worth of paint would have prevented a lot of people's floors from being damaged over the years.  Hope to start glueing foam up tomorrow.

[Scott iv]

I'm not a sunrader owner but admire how well these vehicles have held up over the years. Most manufacturers don't build vehicles with the expectation they are still in use 40+ years later; especially rv manufacturers. 

[Bob the Builder]

Looking good Doug! I'm still amazed at how much stuff you are getting done in a short amount of time. I finally filled in my front "pass thru" hole and am getting ready to lay down a 1" piece of pink on the bottom then a thin sheet of plywood. I'm going to explore the Great Stuff foam construction adhesive for the glue on this and the wall foam. What kind of space did you end up with on your windows? Just curious.

[IdahoDoug]

Which windows? The space required on my side windows is 7/8" for the aluminum interior trim.  This pulls the windows hard against the exterior for a good seal.  So, I got some 7/8" cedar to use for the window surrounds. Is that what you were asking?

 

In case it's the wraparound windows you're asking about, yesterday I found a local source for the plexiglass, so I'll go buy a 4X8 sheet there for $120.  If I have enough left over and the fit is nice I think I'll make a second set and sell them here to defray some of my project costs.

 

I've been noodling on how to make window covers for the wraparounds.  I want that front wall to be a thick cushion of insulation when covered as my wife will sleep on that side.  So, I'm going to put wood strips above the windows before I cover the walls with the foam and hull liner.  Then I'll make a multilayer fabric insulated/padded full length cover, attach its upper side with a full length piano hinge, and use magnets to hold it up against the ceiling when not in use.  At night (or sunny days to block heat), it will simply swing down against the front wall, and its bottom edge will be held tight by the same magnet strategy.  This has been holding me up from trimming out the sleeper area as I have to decide this, mount wood, then cover it.  Can't put the sleeper fabric covering in place, then tear sections out to mount something.  

 

I also had to decide where the reading lights will go and put wood blocks there to screw into, make provision for a sturdy handle for us to use getting in and out and mount wood blocks there to screw into later, decide about the little shelves in there for reading materials, cell phone holders, cell phone chargers,  a place to plug a marine rubber bladed fan in and something it can mount to for hot nights, etc.  It's been a pain and has held me up for a few weeks now getting all this straight in my head.  I think I've got it mentally drafted now, so time to draw it out, then epoxy wood chunks, and finally put up the fabric.  

 

I also need to build the square filler panel that fills in the sleeper hole as mine came without one.  Anyone have a photo of how Sunrader made that thing?  Is there a metal strip around its edges that lays down against the floor to prevent the wood filler piece from falling through?  Or?....

[Bob the Builder]

Yes, Doug, the side windows. My sleeper side windows and the big cabin side windows appear to be the same thickness inside the trim flanges when screwed together bare, 7/8". The inside aluminum flange is exactly 3/8" and my sleeper side windows, (still mounted and sealed) have a hair less than 3/8" showing. I've been testing with a piece of 1/2" foamular @ different spots, including the back window,( mounted yet with flange installed), and if I put any kind of paneling 1/8 minimum, should be tight and close to seating the middle frame. Not to belabor the point, just more info.

[IdahoDoug]

So, slightly MORE stack height (panel plus seal, etc) is OK. Problems happen if there's not enough stackup.  Then the screws will draw the inside aluminum down and bottom out on a short stack, and not pull the outer seal of the window against the coach outside wall.  Worst case is you'd need longer screws. 

[IdahoDoug]

Well, finally got the plan for the sleeper sorted out and got going again.  I built new frames for the sleepers side windows and made them of moisture resistant 7/8" cedar vs the crap "pressed sawdust" wood Sunrader used, which turns into oatmeal the second it gets wet.  I made the frames wider by an inch so I have hard points to screw window shades into.  The aluminum trim is on just to hold the new wood against the fiberglas until the construction adhesive dries.  Then I'll remove them and start installing foam board around the frames, then cover that with foam for padding, then a top layer of marine hull liner (carpet-like).

 

 

 

Above the front wraparound windows, my strategy for attaching a window covering is going to be a hinged affair the entire width.  We learned with camping in our Vanagon that having to manually install suction cup blackout window coverings for night time is a pain. The coverings are a pain to store, then you have to go around to each window to install and it takes 10 minutes, when you'd rather be getting dressed for bed, or turning on lights without advertising your presence to everyone outside in the dark.  I want these to be instant to deploy throughout the Sunrader.  So, I glued a piece of cedar above the windows to be a "hard point" to screw the window covering into for decades of reliable use.  Not sure what I'm doing there, but it will be a multi layer fabric insulated cover that will hinge up and magnet to the roof for daytime, then simply pop it loose and it will fall into place and stick with another row of magnets under the window.  I'll put a thinner piece of cedar under the window to hold the magnets, and I'm not yet sure how I'm going to put magnets on the ceiling for day mode.  Anyone have ideas?  No screws through the roof is my mantra...

 

 

Edited January 8 by IdahoDoug

[linda s]

That trim piece above the window looks too close to the edge. You must be able to slide the slot of your trim-lok all the way in. 

Linda S

[IdahoDoug]

Yeah, it does look close in the photo.  So one of the many moving parts was exactly that spacing.  I wanted the wood right up to the rubber but didnt have the new seals.  They came today and the rubber interior lip is just over a quarter inch depth.  I put a sharpie line at 1/2" and lined up the cedar on that, but you cant see the line or the actual space as the wall is sloped and the cedar is square, so it "shadows" it.  Which reminds me. Glue was oozing out and I wiped it twice.  But now that its thickened, I better go check one last time to ensure excess glue doesnt interfere with the seal.  I will snag a shot while I am out there.

 

edit: here you can j-u-s-t make out a black sharpie line and that's 1/2 inch. 
 

And for reference, here is a shot of the new seal.  The 1/8 side is for the new plexiglass.  The hanging lip is an integrated "key" which you pry into place after it is installed to place  greater internal pressure on the seal. 
 

 

Edited January 8 by IdahoDoug

[IdahoDoug]

Outside work has been at a standstill here for several days. We are in a deep freeze with temps as low as 15 below zero F.  Of course this had to happen right as I need to glue wood hard points against the fiberglas skin, so when I cover everything with foam and hull liner, I have wood to screw into for mounting mini shelves, power outlets, reading lights, handles, etc.  

 

Got a special fitting for our sewing machine today called a walking foot, which helps with leather.  So, finally I will get to test our machine to see if it can handle leather, or if I have to buy a new machine. I haven't sewed on a machine for some 52 years, so wish me luck!  If it works out, I'm going to write a large check for several hides of leather, as well as a lot of pricey foam.

[Ctgriffi]

High here was just 7F today!

 

Look forward to seeing what you end up making with the leather. A sewing machine is a great way to stay busy/productive in the dead of winter!

[linda s]

Industrial sewing machines are mucho money. BUT,old treadle ones can be found pretty cheap. They will sew through anything. I still have my gramma's.  Made in 1880's. Have used it on leather, tent grade canvas and replaced rear window in a convertible a few times

Linda S

[IdahoDoug]

Wow, just as I suspected - some other craft/skill folks on here.  So, the plan was to oil my wife's 30 year old machine, get a walking foot (helps) and see if it could handle the leather.  No dice.

 

So I picked up a Singer Heavy Duty, which I watched a knowledgeable guy online test severely, and then disassemble to find it was indeed a well found machine.  Metal frame, bearings where others have bushings, metal parts where others use plastic, etc.  I owe the guy.  For a mere $199 at my local  Jo-Ann's I snagged one, ran back home and an hour later had it set up.  Here's a picture of it's work:

 

I didn't know diddly about sewing after a 50 year hiatus, but it sewed a perfectly straight line, didn't miss a stitch, or even change stitch length a whit!  Didnt even need help self starting, and you are looking at 2 layers of the nutmeg leather I'm going to use and 2 layers of the marine grade vinyl I'm using for the welting (the green is not what I'm using).  So, I'm in business!!  Tomorrow I'll buy 2 full hides, the foam and the blue vinyl I'll use.  Yahoo!!!!

[extech]

i would like to suggest you make the stiches longer (less stitch per inch) . what i see is an easily ripped seam on vinyl and leather

[Bob the Builder]

Not that I know anything about sewing, but my wife has been doing it all of her life. I agree with extech about the stitch length and also, try using a bigger needle and heavier thread for more strength. Not meant to criticize, I think it's neat that you are willing to tackle this part or your build. I'm lucky, I would let my wife do it.

[IdahoDoug]

Hey, very much appreciate the stitch length comment, Extech.  You guys are correct - I reset it and researched and that's the right way to do it.  I also got a bigger needle, and 2000yards of 92 thread.  With me, don't EVER not say anything concerned I'll take it wrong.  My approach to life is to always voraciously process advice as someone's input to make me or my project better.  It's kinda sad society in general has made us all sensitive because people do not take advice well.  However, consider me an old dog who LIKES new tricks!!

 

So, it's been a chaotic week with a huge winter storm, my future son in law's BMW broke down and I'm fixing it for him, work's insane, a 1 day turnaround trip to SD on Tuesday that went awry with an airliner breakdown, snowblower wouldn't start after its long hibernation, etc.  But I chose my leather and came home from a high end upholstery shop with 2 and 1/2 huge hides, thread, foam, some helpful little knicknacks, vinyl for welting, a walking foot for the Singer, etc on Tuesday.  Super excited.  Here's a shot of one of the hides hanging over a couple chairs.  I'll take a shot of the blue vinyl on it so you can see how the final color combo is going to look.  The blue welting is a cool contrast and meant to echo the exterior color when it's painted. You can see the BMW M3 seats sitting against the wall I scored a couple weeks ago.  So happy about that - heated, fully articulated power leather seats for both driver and passenger.  Road trip worthy!!!!

 

 

I like rich medium brown leathers, tending toward tans.  However I wanted to make a bit of a style statement with more of a nutmeg color.  This leather is not nutmeg, which is a bit too orange-y for me, but it has that unique "brightness" nutmeg has and is enough of a departure from a rich brown to catch the eye.  Super pleased.

 

I got enough leather to do the dinette, plus some accents all around the living area.  Right inside the door to the left, I'm planning some sort of as yet undefined chair/bench/storage thing so when you come in there's a place to sit and take off shoes, or ride along in range of the drivers with a lap belt, or set a shopping bag down and that will be leather.  The window surrounds will have a rigid frame to hold blackout shades and they may be trimmed in leather.  That awkward area at the top of the rear wall over the dinette may be a candidate for some padded leather and straps to hold the dinette backrests up out of the way when it's set up for sleeping, etc, etc.  

 

I wouldn't mind diving into this project now, but the cold weather has caused some water leakage at the windows, the wrap around windows are out, and I should finish the sleeper, tear out the walls elsewhere and reseal the windows  so I can put in the new subfloor, put up fresh walls and then refocus on building out the interior.  Such a bummer I don't have a tall enough place indoors to work on this girl...

[extech]

there could be another catch.  have you found what thread your machine needs- left or right twist.

 can you get a welt foot? makes it so much easier

[IdahoDoug]

Hmm tell me about the twist.  I may be getting a separate stand for the large spool I just bought.  Also I forgot to mention I bought a welt foot as well, and the machine can adjust the needle strikes to the left/right also which will make those nice and tight (he says confidently, having never done it....).

[extech]

i believe   can't remember  left twist is for rotating hook machines and right twist is for oscillating shuttle

 if you use the wrong one often times the thread will get frayed and tangle

 your new machine should have a manual specifying thread type. 

[IdahoDoug]

K will check - thanks.

 

[IdahoDoug]

So I checked and I need a "Z" pattern twist for my machine and that's what the professional spool I have is.  Thank you mucho!

 

Also, it's slightly heavier than I need, and it's also an automotive grade that has UV resistance and the chemicals in leather won't affect it.  

 

Edited January 18 by IdahoDoug

[Bob the Builder]

Doug, I hope you haven't already name your sunrader like some of the folks on here. I think with the way you are going with all of the fancy appointmens, etc. we'll have to call it "The Sunrader Hilton!". Sure is going to look spiffy. Keep er up.

[IdahoDoug]

Ha!  I love it.  Yes, given my background as a former Lexus product planner, I couldn't really disappoint my camping buddies and just slap it together.  So it will have some neat features and the interior materials will be a cut above.  The SunLexus? The SunRitz?

 

Having some more game delays on my end at the moment. Traveling to Chicago on business next week. Argh.  Heading out now to clear snow off the boat as overnight added snow is too much for the cover and I don't need another "gotta do this right now" project.  Epoxy is drying on the BMW - hoping to get his car through the winter on this repair.  It's just a 50 cent O ring on those blasted BMW coolant hose connections. But you can't reach in far enough to replace one, so you have to replace the entire hose.  It's $150 online, but is shaped like an "H" and snakes all around and through the engine - meaning it's likely 6 hours to pull all manner of accessories off to install it.

 

Yesterday, I used coolant RTV in the connector, snapped it on and put a light bulb next to it for 24 hours to cure it.  On startup this morning, it started leaking as soon as pressure came up.  Tore it apart, and brought in the big gun during lunch.  Put epoxy in there and it's again curing overnight with a bulb.  It will now require the expansion tank be replaced (should be anyhow) because that's permanent, but I'm hoping this will hold the 15psi and last the winter.

 

Edited January 19 by IdahoDoug

[IdahoDoug]

Well, the BMW fix did not work.  Parts on the way. Argh.

 

On the Sunrader, I finally got out to work on it after weeks of intense cold, then a heavy snow. Here, I can see the aluminum roof beams are going to be thermal conductors.  Oh well, I am confident the average insulation value of the roof is much higher than factory with twice the insulation thickness between the beams, and a new generation foam versus that styrofoam:

 

I got back on the sleeper today.  Made the decision to install aluminum beams  on it's roof also - primarily to install a handle, and use as a structure to install some ceiling netting above our heads to hold cell phones, books and such up out of the way.  I was going to do a shelf, but it would interfere with the insulation layer, foam layer and padding layer enough that would have diverted too much time.  Overhead netting is a better move as you can look up and see what you need to grab, vs feeling blindly up on a shelf.  Plus underway, nothing will fall, again vs a shelf above our heads.

 

So I decided where the gooseneck reading lamps will go and glued up mounts (tape is holding them in picture) and painted the "floor" with Kilz to block off a bit of mildew there.  I replaced the far corner of the floor with new, caulked the edges as the factory should have, and now its painted.  Before doing that, I decided where the two roof beams will go and reground the with the sander to be sure I will get a secure grip with the epoxy, then vacuumed the entire ceiling and floor before painting.  This sleeper is driving me crazy, frankly.  Thinking of ways to cover the windows, power for cell chargers, reading lamps, new wraparound windows, the ceiling, etc.  I'm starting to ratchet down some of the details in favor of keeping the project moving. I need to insulate it, and install the ceiling and wall upholstery, so I can install the piece of wall behind the bath and reinstall it.  Those two wall surfaces come together.