Idaho Doug's Sunrader build

[IdahoDoug]

Thank you for the kind words.  Sometimes when it's tough going, the lack of responses and help sting a bit, so that helps.  So, would you consider cutting and bending new windows?  I've suffered through the learning curve and reduced it to a "follow these steps" task now.

 

I head to Dallas now for a short business trip.  Hope to spend Sunday on the wraparounds - possibly installing both this weekend.  

[IdahoDoug]

Well, I got one window ready to install - the pesky left window.  Now, just need to prep the opening with some thin strips of rubber to thicken the edge to a quarter inch.  Also needed to grind down the sharp curved area on the lower lip of the opening.  It was abnormally thick right on the curve - over a quarter inch.  So the seal simply would not sit there properly.  Did the same on the right side while I had the Dremel out - but a very light touch. 

 

I got better at trimming and marking the window as I brought it smaller and smaller to the right size with a quarter inch gap all around.  I stopped marking it by hand, and instead made a simple jig with a Sharpie and popsicle stick such that once it's smaller than the opening by a fraction if an inch (at least a popsicle stick), then I could slide the stick along the opening and it would draw the correct matching line on the still-too-large window.  The line follows the slight wavers of these openings, which are crazily hand cut (vs using a template.  That would have been so simple at the Sunrader factory).  

 

I've decided I am going to glue them in.  I looked at old threads of people who reused the old windows and installed new seals and had leaks, and I don't want to be that guy.  It's risky in that once the stuff is applied, it's gotta fit and I wont know if they're too tight until I'm half done with the install and then it will be a tremendous mess if I have to pull it apart before it fully cures.  But if I'm successfull, these things probably will be water tight to 10 feet underwater, or something.

 

This week, I'll get the right window also trimmed to size so that next weekend my son can help me.  I'm definitely going to need an extra set of strong hands.

[IdahoDoug]

Wraparound windows making me insane.  The right window was the first one I made.  At the end of the day it turned out to be 1/8" too short when I turned to it to do final trim to size.  So, had to buy an entire 2nd 4X8 sheet of plexi and start over on the right window.  Cut first one and promptly bent it the wrong direction and made a left one instead.  Cut second one and now it's ready to start the trimming process.  Glad I checked my sanity at the door upon beginning this Sunrader project in October!

 

[extech]

sounds like doing crown molding

[IdahoDoug]

Ack - really?  Remind me never to try that.  So today, I got a fresh right window to very close to it's final size.  Hoping to finish that process tomorrow and be ready to try installing them on Sunday.  I will need to fully sand the edges so they're smooth and rounded to pry into the seal without catching or cutting it.

[IdahoDoug]

So, I've now tried twice to install a window as we finally got to 70 up here in N. Idaho.  A bizarre cold spring - just my luck.  Fortunately with water soluble Alex Plus silicone caulk as both ended in failure.  The seal is the problem.  When using needed force to push the window to get it started, the seal groove on the body is too large for the thin fiberglas and just rolls off.  I was hoping to find the right combination of force, with my son helping and a willingness to try again.  

 

Once the attempts fail, the race is on to clean out the gasket, the opening on the coach body, and the window before the silicone dries and is not removable.  Very sadly the silicone left a haze that would not come off the window despite hot water and soap - completely contrary to cleaning up this product in the past.  At the last minute, I tried foaming window cleaner with ammonia.  Zip - clear as a bell.  Would have been pretty discouraging to make a window again.

 

So now I've ordered 1/8" thick rubber strips WITHOUT the adhesive.  The rubber was simply impossible to cut with the adhesive.  Blades gummed up, etc.  My plan is to use the plain rubber strips and 3M's best auto-rated rubber watherstripping adhesive to glue them on and make the coach body 1/4" thick.  Then glue the seal to the coach, let it dry a few days, then insert the window into the seal.  Hopefully the glued on seal will be stable enough for me to use the prying pressure needed to get it in place.

 

This set in motion a whole slew of things.  Went around town to various sign shops and such to see if they'd cut the plain rubber into 1/4" strips for me.  No, can't do it.  Nope, can't. No. Sure, for $100 and we won't guarantee they'll be straight edges.  Finally ended up at a fabric shop where they sell a rotary cutter the lady insisted will NOT do what I need.  But I think it will work like a charm bought the best titanium blades for spares, and I hop for success.  One of us is right, so stay tuned.  I will need the cutter anyhow for cutting the leather hides I bought for the dinette, and I also needed a quality cutting mat for same.  I also need a pair of sharp scissors for the upholstery work.  It was an expensive week for getting nowhere so far.

 

Now I'm trying to figure out how to install the seal on the body such that it's fully seated the entire 10 foot perimeter.  I guess taping it the full length until it cures is really my only option, so that's the plan.  If it is not seated anywhere and shrinks the opening by a 16th of an inch here and there, the window won't fit.  So the seal must be fully seated the entire perimeter.

 

Down, but not out.  Still at it.

[MaineJed]

Thank you for keeping us up with your latest updates. Your progress, although frustrating and time consuming for you, gives us a better idea of what to do when we face similar issues. Trial and error is the best teacher. 

[Ctgriffi]

8 hours ago, IdahoDoug said:

…Down, but not out.  Still at it.

Don’t give up, sir! And thanks for keeping us informed on your progress. Sorry these windows have been such a CHORE… if I were anywhere close to ID, I would try to jump in and lend a hand 🙂👍🏻

[IdahoDoug]

Thanks, lads! OK, so the rotary cutter worked a treat.  I have two lengths of perfectly straight 1/4" rubber that I'll glue along the perimeter of the fiberglas opening with 3M's best rubber adhesive.  I'll even prep the surface with the recommended cleaner - 3M's Adhesive Remover.  The rotary cutter literally cut the rubber effortlessly, following the edge of an aluminum straightedge, on my new cutting mat.  I suspect it will similarly make short work of the leather when I get to that stage.  And OF COURSE the forecast drops from tomorrow's 70s into the mid 50s right on cue.  This is the umpteenth time the normally docile weather here has interrupted my work.  

 

 

[IdahoDoug]

Got the rubber "thickening strips" installed but wow.  That 3M stuff cures WAY too fast to spread 20 feet of it.  10 feet of opening, and 10 feet of rubber strip.  That sucked.  I did find a useful way to have 10 feet of rubber strip under control with curing glue on it, but you'll need a helper.  I wrapped it around an empty jug, taped both ends, then brushed on the glue.  My sweet wife helper then unrolled it as I needed it to stick it onto the window opening.  Worked great.  This evening I went back out to see how well it's glued, and it already feels extremely solid.  Phew.  

 

Edited May 17, 2024 by IdahoDoug

[Dogwaggin]

Just bought a Sunrader and I am definitely reading your process!  I’m certainly hoping to learn from your research and trial and error.  Good luck!

[IdahoDoug]

Thanks, hope it's useful!  Where in WA are you?

 

I'm sidetracked again as we have a wedding coming up in July and I need to rebuild the deck I tore out last fall to reside the back of the house.  A third of the foundations are poured (I'm hand mixing with a wheelbarrow), and once those are complete it will go fast.

[Dogwaggin]

We are near Olympia.  You sound busy!  Good luck with the deck and I’ll keep an eye out for additional window posts.  

[IdahoDoug]

Well, deck is done, finishing trim on two sliding doors I also installed to make use of it, and our daughter's wedding is 2 weeks off.  To straighten the house for guests, I moved the entire pile of parts (leather, huge rolls of foam and fabric, lighting, taillights, solar panels and the rest) from the dining room where they've sat for months out into the Sunrader.  It makes quite an impressive pile and doesn't include the oversize fridge, rear axle, stack of tires and such.   I'm excited to get back into the project at the end of July. 

 

Update on the windows is despite using top quality 3M adhesives, the rubber I installed around the openings to take up the internal space on my seals simply fell off in an 18" area. Bizarre.  Will figure it out and resecure.  Hope you all had a great 4th!

[IdahoDoug]

Exciting day here - working on the Sunrader for the first time in many months!!!!!

 

[IdahoDoug]

Wow, grabbed my sword and shield, girded my loins and ran straight into the same concrete wall.  Can't get the window in.  4 hours of trying.  Either the seal slips off the window opening when I pry the windows in, or once the window is in, I can't get it started along the edge without the seal slipping off somewhere else.  We almost got it going well 3 times and had perhaps 20 no goes.  I give.

 

So, plan B.  Get another sheet of plexiglas. Cut two windows that are 1" larger than the body openings, and glue the windows to the outside of the body.  This is a newer technique used for mounting frameless windows on automobiles, and I see some innovative RV manufacturers are using it now.  By comparison, this will be a piece of cake as I don't have to have the edges exact to 1/32 of an inch, nor follow the slightly irregular lines of the factory body opening.  My window edges will be straight as an arrow, and it will give it a slight look of modernity to go along with the new tail lamps, paint and other touches.

 

Just got done putting all my tools away and am just going to go out and sit there looking at other aspects of the job, thinking, and getting my head back in this multidimensional project. Onward and upward.

[MaineJed]

Too bad to compromise, yes it would look more modern if that’s cool with you but having it in the original spot would make it look factory. Good luck with your decision.

[linda s]

Could you send me a link to the exact rubber seal you bought? I've installed quire a few of these and I'm trying to get an idea what's happening with yours 

Linda S

[WME]

pure retro grade, FPR, fiberglass, Raptor bed liner... no windows.

WTF just glass in the windows you have cut and then paint

[IdahoDoug]

Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NL48TFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

I searched high and low for and "H" seal with longer legs with no luck.  Here, I had the choice of using the integrated locking mechanism or the separate locking strip.  It was good quality rubber and arrived as advertised.  Just not like the original seals, which I saved and reusing them may just be Plan D....

 

I suspect COVID wiped out some mfrs of esoteric things like these rubber seals, which are primarily used on old vehicles and there's not likely enough volume in good times, let alone with COVID business stress.

Edited July 29, 2024 by IdahoDoug

[IdahoDoug]

WMW - you have no idea how close I came to doing exactly that.  However, if I do glass work on the sleeping area, I'll also cut and section it to make it about 10 inches taller.  When I was done putting my tools away, I considered glassing over the holes - believe me.

 

Jed - I think it's going to look just like a normal Sunrader coming down the road at ya.  The modern look will simply for someone who knows the Sunraders and stares at the windows long enough to realize "what's different" there.  Same shape, same size, it will even have a black painted margin around the edges that will simulate a black rubber surround.  That's just to hide the glue, however.  I suspect you'll like if if like me, you are a "keep it stock" type.

[IdahoDoug]

So I just got back from Laird Plastics in Spokane where Chris helped with my order.  Switched to polycarbonate despite the easier scratching, and UV vulnerability.  I'll just hit the windows with 303 Aerospace UV protectant each time I wash it.  The advantage I get is I can drill this where Plexiglas is too brittle.  I may be installing stainless fasteners through the windows to hold them in place while the glue beads dry.  Unless I can come up with another strategy to ensure they are tight and do not move during cure.  Also, polycarbonate is extremely tough to road debris impacts, and I also upgraded to 1/4 inch as I think I need more rigidity for this to stay essentially glued onto the RV body - resisting bowing from wind pressure at freeway speeds that might pull sideways on the glue if the window is allowed to flex.  

 

Next step is cutting and bending just like before. If anyone has any tips or thoughts before I dive in, sing out.  If successful, this may bring new wraparound windows to the realm of a weekend project for anyone with modest skills.

[Ssunrader]

If you’re drilling it, find the right drill bits that won’t cause fracturing when breaking through the material. You can make your own by grinding the point at a narrow angle, more so than the ones below even.

 

Temperature for forming should be around 370F, and not saturated necessarily, but just enough to be allowed to drape over a form. Ultracal concrete is a great material for that, just make everything oversized and carefully trim later. A sheet of teflon coated fiberglass cloth over the ultracal form prevents any sticking and is a smooth barrier. You will need a trim fixture along with the form to make these.

 

Another teflon sheet can support the polycarbonate sheet until it reaches TG in the oven, then can drape it over the form, might have to clamp it at the corners to prevent any creeping during cooling.

Make extras to sell and offset the cost of your efforts.

[IdahoDoug]

Hey, you sound like you've got some valuable experience - thanks for the tips.  I've successfully bent a few of these out of 1/8 Plexiglass, so I'm hoping I can use the system I've been, but spend more time on the heating here with the thicker material.  Regarding the drills, I've now switched to polycarbonate which several online sources say takes no particular care (vs the fragile acrylic/plexiglas).  Let me know if I'm wrong, eh?

 

I'll be test drilling to confirm and also test bending as well.  If you can confirm - the polycarbonate is easier to overheat and cause bubbles, though it needs more heat to bend. True?  I managed to avoid any bubbling at all on the plexiglas.  Hope to do the same here.

 

As for the oven and your suggested technique, that sounds like a professional at work.  I"ll be doing this as before, with the part draped over a length of hot pipe, and patiently heating it as it slowly droops down to my desired 90 degree angle.  It's a house specialty - slow roasted!

 

I do this with the part larger than the final piece, then trim it to my final dimensions after bending. That way, the crucial weird angle (the front portion of the window is leaned rearward) is achieved and bending variations don't ruin it.

 

Any tips on cutting it?  I used an oscillating tool and several passes on the thinner stuff.  Seems like people recommend a rotary cutter for this?  Thoughts?

[IdahoDoug]

OK.  Got back to the project a few hours ago and here's an excellent update.  Cutting the polycarbonate with a wood blade mounted backward worked great - got that off Youtube.  Super loud - wear ear protection.

 

I did a very small test bend - just a few inch piece to get an idea how hot it needs to be.  Infrared thermometer said about 275 before it got flexy and I put it down and kept applying heat gun then bent it 90 degrees. I was delighted at the engineer who chose the white protective film as I was able to heat it with this on, and it came off as normal after cooling. That was a terrific development as its easier to scratch than the Plexiglas was:

 

 

Then, I set up a contraption Wile E. Coyote would be proud of.  Twin heat guns!  I ate and apple and let the bottom one go with a larger test part until it peaked out at 147 degrees F, then started applying heat to the top with the second gun. 

 

 

Unfortunately, the part peaked at about 240 and I kept at it and could get it no hotter.  Clearly, I was also not keeping all of it that hot as it cools pretty quickly. I was pretty crestfallen and thinking a failure here is going to REALLY set this project back.  I have to get it weather sealed so I can work on the floors and walls or I'll just end up with damage.

 

Time for Plan M (approx - I've now lost track...).   It will be laughed at over many a campfire over the coming years when pointing at these windows. You see, most people who recently built a deck, and bought a deck fire feature are unaware of its versatility.  I threw the directions away, but could swear when I built it last month there was a footnote that it is also an approved linear furnace to heat polycarbonate sheet.  I will not be checking with She Who Must Be Obeyed on that, but I have a pretty clear memory of reading it.

 

Beatrice the deer and her twins came by to approve the engineering:

 

Aaaaaand!  It worked like a charm!  Here's a large test piece on my first try:

 

So, I'm waiting for my son to come home from a fun Sunday drive to do the actual parts. in the meantime, I'm going to mark the center lines, and such.  Super happy.

[IdahoDoug]

Well, it worked great.  Here are the new rough cut windows cooling in the grass.  Now I cut them to final shape.  In the mean time, I'll test the adhesive, as nobody at the company could tell me if it will work on polycarbonate like it does on glass.  

 

Another angle.  The rough cut edges made the above left one look awry:

 

 

Edited August 19, 2024 by IdahoDoug

[Ctgriffi]

This is exciting, Doug! You are beyond persistent at making this project happen, and I know the rig is gonna be great when all is said and done... meanwhile you are learning a great deal, trial and error, which is fun to observe and great for the forum!
 

Wish I could jump in and lend a hand! Keep it up, sir!

[IdahoDoug]

Thanks - very kind of you to say.  I'm sad this project got on hold for so long, as I expected to have a couple thousand miles on it by the end of summer so we could decide if this winter it will get lifted and 4WD.  

 

I just pulled the liners off the polycarbonate windows.  I'm very pleased with the results.  Only a bit of distortion in the very center of the curve where we had to use an aluminum beam to hold the hot material flat.  Overall, it's WAY clearer than the plexiglas was, even though it's twice as thick.  I'm liking my decision to go with clear, as our interests in the outdoors involve watching wildlife and such. Here you can see the only distortion is a band about 3/4 inch wide and I purposely lined it up with a tree and got the phone close to show it.  At normal "look out the window at the moose" distances, it's a non issue:

 

[IdahoDoug]

Well, I did a bonding experiment overnight with Sika's premium S2G product for mounting glass in car bodies.  It was a fail, I think.  I say I think because I judged that on how easily I could peel it apart.  However, it may be since you can't peel a stiff window off a stiff steel body that was an unfair test.  Nevertheless, I'm repeating it with the same polycarbonate samples, this time with a sanded area for better grip.  I also put some on the Sunrader's fiberglas and another sample on a piece of ordinary glass, which it's designed for.  If I can easily peel it off the glass (which it's made for) in the same fashion, then I guess my peeling it off polycarb does not mean it failed, just I subjected it to pealing forces which is impossible.  Hmmm.  Results coming.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Well, the sanded sample also failed in my opinion.  Again, I'm no authority on how hard it should be to pull apart the samples, but here's what I learned:

 

Sanded polycarbonate sample - definite increase in adhesion, but my judgement is it's not enough.

Glass sample - better adhesion than the plain polycarbonate, but I was kind of disappointed it was not an order of magnitude better. I prepped the glass with rubbing alcohol as recommended, and this Sika P2G is designed specifically for glass with no need to prime it.  And my brain cannot process how an adhesive works markedly better on glass (perfectly smooth) than on polycarbonate.  Thus, proving the reason they have engineers for this stuff.

Sunrader outside wall sample - holy toledo!  It's on there and I cannot even come CLOSE to peeling it off with all my strength.  It won't rip, either.  I will have to use a razor blade and then sandpaper to get that gumdrop of P2G off there.  So at least I know that side of my glueing task is going to work.

 

So, I started all over again.  I heard from the Sika automotive products tech staff again today regarding a question on P2G full cure time vs what they call "drive away time (6hrs)"  This did not reassure me as in 24 hours, they told me what I'm using is fully cured, so I'm not testing it prematurely at 24 hours and there is no more strength to be gained.  Done with that product.

 

Incredibly, I did my umpteenth search on Sika and discovered they have a Marine products array. Why nobody mentioned this when I said "fiberglas to polycarbonate application" is beyond me. And there - yes right there - is a product for bonding polycarbonate windows to boat hulls, which are fiberglas.  Of course Amazon and every other fast shipper was out of it, as well as the primer I need to prep the polycarbonate.  So, I ordered another $150 worth of adhesives.  And I bought a DeWalt electric glue gun for $200 to squirt the adhesive in a tall triangular fin as they spec it.  These are going to be the most expensive windows in the Sunrader world, but nobody else will have to spend on all the rabbit holes I went down, so it will end up being a sure thing at a reasonable cost for others.  Unfortunately it will be more than a week to get the stuff.  So, after I trim the windows, I'll get to work servicing the new axle so at least I'm not killing time.  Onward and upward!

Edited August 23, 2024 by IdahoDoug

[IdahoDoug]

Well, the window final trimming is underway, but the glue for me to test is a week off. So I disassembled the new to me 6 bolt full floater that will go under the rig to check the bearings and replace things. The axle has 72k on it, and the bearings looked like new.  This is typical for Toyota's rear axles which are overbuilt (the motorhome issues were caused not by Toyota, but by the motorhome makers cheaping out and ordering the semi-floater axles).   If you've never repacked yours and want to do it, here's a quick primer:

 

 

Loosen those 6 12mm nuts, but don't remove them - unscrew them until the washer is even with the tip of the stud they're on.

Tap directly on the conical washers, which will be stuck in their seats until they pop out with a springy pop.  That's why you left the nuts on - so you are not swearing and trying to find them in some dark corner of your shop. You can also pound briskly on the axle flange close to the stuck washers and after about 20 hits they will come off.  The method I show above does not always work.  For the first time ever, I distorted 2 of my conical washers and they're $6 apiece and will arrive tomorrow.  These look to be undisturbed for 42 years, and when I switched back to pounding with a brass hammer, the rest came off just fine at about 20 hits. $24 lesson...

 

Pull the axle out (you should have drained the diff, also, or it will come pouring out).  Note the brown paper washer you'll also need to have on hand. Super cheap.

Remove the two phillips screws in the wheel bearing retainer.  The screws are soft and an impact gun helps. I keep a couple screws on hand as I've been maintaining two of these axles for a combined 540,000 miles now (two 80 series Toyota LandCruisers - they sometimes start to strip.

Here's the Toyota tool (cheap) to unscrew the now unlocked bearing retainer.

the massive, over engineered bearing retainer.

 

Outer bearing just falls out when you pull the entire hub away from the axle (on newspaper)

 

Now pull the entire hub off.  In the end of the axle tube is the tiny black rubber axle seal. Use a seal puller on the hub to pull that inner wheel bearing seal and then pull out the inner bearings. Repack bearings, new axle and inner wheel bearing seal and reassemble.  Do NOT overtorque those 6 12mm nuts on the tapered split washers.  26 lbs-ft no oil on threads.

 

I ordered new shoes and new wheel cylinders (hydraulic pistons that move the drums) even though both looked good.  Going down a mountain pass wondering if those 42 year old shoes are about to delaminate from their base, or if a cylinder seal is about to blow is not how I roll - especially since I am likely to be the heaviest Sunrader in history when I'm finished.  Super cheap.  Drums measured well within spec, and original Toyota drums are higher quality than almost anything you'll find on the market today.  The drum and hub must weigh nearly 50lbs - incredible when I think of my Cruisers with their rear discs and hub that I USED to think were heavy...

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 26, 2024 by IdahoDoug

[IdahoDoug]

The left wraparound window is now done in terms of shaping and bending.  Primer arrived for the polycarbonate, still waiting for the proper adhesive.  Plan is to literally fully complete and glue in the left one, then size and orient the right one to match.  Neither the cut holes from the factory are the same, nor are the two roughed (cut appx to size, then bent) windows identical.  So best to mount one, then do the final trim of the other to match it in terms of being parallel, meeting in the middle, etc.  This is necessary as they are a "floating" mount and having one in place then gives the install goal of matching it with the other as to lines, etc.

 

Here is the left window and behind it you can see the right window in it's rough form.  It's necessary to bend it as an oversize piece so you can have some room for error on exactly how the bend goes, and then trim to final shape.  Recall the front surface is leaned rearward, so it's not just a simple 90 degree bend.  Blue tape masked off the edges where the glue will be applied.  It's been sanded with 60 grit, then 150 grit to prep for the primer.  The company says max adhesion for the primer is achieved with sanding. 

[fred heath]

On 8/23/2024 at 12:07 AM, IdahoDoug said:

Well, the sanded sample also failed in my opinion.  Again, I'm no authority on how hard it should be to pull apart the samples, but here's what I learned:

 

Sanded polycarbonate sample - definite increase in adhesion, but my judgement is it's not enough.

Glass sample - better adhesion than the plain polycarbonate, but I was kind of disappointed it was not an order of magnitude better. I prepped the glass with rubbing alcohol as recommended, and this Sika P2G is designed specifically for glass with no need to prime it.  And my brain cannot process how an adhesive works markedly better on glass (perfectly smooth) than on polycarbonate.  Thus, proving the reason they have engineers for this stuff.

Sunrader outside wall sample - holy toledo!  It's on there and I cannot even come CLOSE to peeling it off with all my strength.  It won't rip, either.  I will have to use a razor blade and then sandpaper to get that gumdrop of P2G off there.  So at least I know that side of my glueing task is going to work.

 

So, I started all over again.  I heard from the Sika automotive products tech staff again today regarding a question on P2G full cure time vs what they call "drive away time (6hrs)"  This did not reassure me as in 24 hours, they told me what I'm using is fully cured, so I'm not testing it prematurely at 24 hours and there is no more strength to be gained.  Done with that product.

 

Incredibly, I did my umpteenth search on Sika and discovered they have a Marine products array. Why nobody mentioned this when I said "fiberglas to polycarbonate application" is beyond me. And there - yes right there - is a product for bonding polycarbonate windows to boat hulls, which are fiberglas.  Of course Amazon and every other fast shipper was out of it, as well as the primer I need to prep the polycarbonate.  So, I ordered another $150 worth of adhesives.  And I bought a DeWalt electric glue gun for $200 to squirt the adhesive in a tall triangular fin as they spec it.  These are going to be the most expensive windows in the Sunrader world, but nobody else will have to spend on all the rabbit holes I went down, so it will end up being a sure thing at a reasonable cost for others.  Unfortunately it will be more than a week to get the stuff.  So, after I trim the windows, I'll get to work servicing the new axle so at least I'm not killing time.  Onward and upward!

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/XRPyDw2KgxXXxtKV/?mibextid=79PoIi
 

Found this site on Fb reels. According to the screenshot, they make and install those curved windows on sunraders. Image is blury but I think this is the same company. Might be worth some research.

[IdahoDoug]

Thanks for the link.  I reached out and they charge $1500 to install a pair of new windows with new seals at their place in Oregon.  Obviously makes sense replacing them as a pair as anyone thinking of replacing just one would probably regret the cosmetics of leaving a 42 year old faded window in place.

 

So, the glue arrived and it was mislabeled.  They sent the wrong color labeled black, but actually white.  I returned them and ordered it from West Marine.  Should be here tomorrow.  And of course it's supposed to rain for two days, then we leave for Canada for the weekend camping in our other vehicle.  Sheesh.  I can't seem to catch a break with this project.  Once these windows are installed, I'm looking forward to moving it along quickly.

[IdahoDoug]

Well, of course only two tubes showed up.  They're trying to get a store in the PNW to grab one off their shelf and overnight it.  At least they refunded my $22 shipping upgrade for 2 day shipping.

 

I put these small copper "nubs" in the path of where the glue will be laid down, as the coach wall is so uneven I was concerned.  The glue mfr Sitka wants a minimum of 5mm tall bead, as the polycarbonate has a higher coefficient of expansion than glass.  With the PC shrinking/growing more, the final bead height is critical to allowing for that movement. This allows me to clamp the new window against the body, and maintains that gap.  They are/were solid copper rivets I ground down to the proper height. And yes, if you grind and then measure too quickly with plastic calipers, you will melt the edges and need to buy a new one. A circle of double sided 3M foam on the back attaches them to the window:

 

 

Then, I trial fit the window with the nubs to the coach and discovered the little center piece of coach wall between the wraparound windows was warped to a degree it was ridiculous.  This explained why almost all the Sunraders wraparounds (including mine) have a "bowed outward" look to their old windows.  This remaining little piece simply is too weak to support things:

 

So, I used a scrap of thick aluminum plate and epoxy to reinforce it and make it flat.  This will help make my installed bead of window glue an accurate final height, and the coach front will look properly flat and square.  Plus the thick polycarbonate window upgrade means the front of the cabover can handle a LOT more impact, and this space between the windows was a weak point that is now as strong as the rest of the face:

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 13, 2024 by IdahoDoug