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Scott iv

Toyota Advanced Member
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  1. Hub caps are covering those rear axles so would need the seller to remove them for a look see.
  2. Here is one for those looking to spend big money on a non Sunrader Toyota. https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/rvs/d/lake-in-the-hills-1987-toyota-dolphin/7491755291.html
  3. Despite my opinion I ultimately agree with Linda it will probably sell quick. People love the Sunraders.
  4. I am not responding to argue and that is not what I wrote. I stated, "good motor with proper upkeep and maintenance." The motors are good but need maintenance which I was doubting on that particular camper. I have no doubt the motor will be fine after maintenance is completed. Seller can prove me wrong. The point I was making was very high price and yet not ready for use. I know toyota motors are good; I have 3. My newer toyota's are more reliable with less maintenance however.
  5. I agree with you Fred. Buyer will not be getting a camper ready to use. Camper looks untouched/ not updated and old. Low miles on the motor means it has been doing a lot of sitting. Good motor with proper upkeep/ maintenance. If motor has been cared for like camper interior it will likely be do for a lot of maintenance; valve cover gasket, oil pump gasket, front main seal, vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, plugs, wires, distributor cap, fan clutch... No mention of tire age/condition.
  6. Had a friend with a standard one. He got rid of it with exhaust problems because he didn't want to pay to replace the 2 catalytic converters.
  7. Second look at your picture and notice a lot of small holes in your aluminum skin near where there is separation at the front edge is occurring. You'll want to get a seal coat of some kind on the roof sooner than later as there are likely pin holes in many areas of your roof. I noticed on mine in areas where there was water intrusion the rotting wood and glue seemed to react with the aluminum skin and make it deteriorate more rapidly.
  8. Sorry to see. All fixable and if you keep up with it you'll have a nice camper. I've been trying for years on here to make people aware of the pros and cons of these machines. I've seen too many people get hustled. Anyway. Yours still looks nice with the expected water intrusions. Keep at it. I used eternabond on many of my seams. Not beautiful but does what it is supposed to do.
  9. Linda had mentioned a particular model that is sealed with a rubber gasket that is not easily found. She suggested that type be left alone. I do not recall the model. If the front window is leaking you'd have to pull it and figure it out anyway.
  10. The guy in the you tube video within this post suggests being able to run his mini split system 24/7 with a 1000w inverter.
  11. I'm betting you are right about the subfloor swelling. A combination of swelling subfloor and years and years of bumpy roads. My roof was saggy at the AC on my Escaper with aluminum frame. I permanently removed the AC from the roof because of this. My camper has a steel support across where the AC goes but still a slight sag. The aluminum frame is not strong alone. My roof system was compromised by water damage so the wood was no longer assisting with supporting weight in spots. I think your idea for jacking the ceiling gently is a good one. I also had a large hole in my roof where the TV antenna had been. I've seen a number of ideas on here about repairing subfloor in patches here. You'll have to decide whether resolving the water intrusion and addressing the resulting cosmetic issues is enough. Many of us do that and camp. Some do a full gut and rebuild.
  12. Looks like the camper is in nice overall condition. Evaluate the places where there is rot on the walls closely. If it is near windows plan on learning how to remove and reseal the windows. If it is in cabinets the roof will need to be resealed. The cab over windows and marker lights start leaking on these. Read about your model's cab over window and whether it can be removed and resealed if needed. The roof vents can be leak spots and the AC (I see they replaced the AC so hopefully put a new gasket in). These jobs are not difficult but do some reading and research before diving in. Water pump replacement is not difficult if it is in an easily accessible location and they are not that expensive. I hope you saved the bottom of your door as I'm not sure how easy it will be to find a replacement door. Plan on working with and repairing what you have. Others here can help with the 6 cylinder motor. Enjoy it.
  13. Your hot water heater runs on propane with an electric start. When you turn the switch on in the coach within a short time (seconds) you would hear the propane flame begin to roar at the water heater. The switch in the coach likely has a light and when you turn it to on the light on the switch turns on; the lighted switch does not mean the water heater is on (I apologize if you know all of this). If your stove burners are not lighting then your water heater will not work either. 1st thing you need to do is look at your propane tank and read the gage; is it still full? 2nd check that the valve at the tank is set to open. 3rd look near the water heater for valves that may be installed in your propane line to turn the propane on and off before the appliance. If you smell the slightest hint of propane turn off the propane at the tank as you have a leak. The easiest way to test your propane system is by lighting the stove. If the stove lights, then you can move on to your furnace, fridge, and hot water heater.
  14. A few questions as I don't know where you're coming from; your experience with RV water heaters. When you say turned on and waited 10 min. is it an electric ignition water heater? Did you hear the unit ignite and burn for 10 min and then turn off? Are you able to light stove burners?
  15. Agree with Fred and Linda. Too expensive and complicated.
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