Scott iv

Wonder how common it is for the support bracket in your picture to crack.

I'm not always a fan of hub caps, but those look great on that vehicle IMO.

I used a 3m wheel decal remover connected to power drill to remove the decals on my camper. I went through 2 or 3. Its work but the wheel did get the decal and glue off.

That thing is cool! Nice to see the amount of room when all said and done.

Brakes reassembled, bled, wheels back on, and test driven. Slight rub on front pads and that has already settled. Packed the dog, wife, and I and took a ride. About 3 miles out the driver side rear axle slid out of the housing part way; dual wheels were protruding about 2 feet away from the vehicle. Didn't completely fall off but close as I got over just in time. Tow truck, slowed traffic, the whole works. Not my proudest DIY moment. Upon inspection, very little damage. Bearing seals are shot, and bearings will be replaced. The locking washer was fastened to the large cylinder that screws onto the axle housing. The lock washer must not have seated properly into the groove that prevents the fastener from unscrewing as I drove. I'm grateful to have not crashed, not injured anyone with flying dual wheels, and to have not destroyed my motorhome. The repair and test drive will be completed again today.

So I cleaned the drum brakes (not the drums) using a steel brush. I discovered both sides still had factory paint; the passenger side intact and the driver side a shriveled mess from the leaking brake fluid. Clumps of shriveled paint all over. The passenger side was in remarkably good condition. Anyway, glad to have gotten in there and got it sorted.

I know, not the best picture but directly below the wheel cylinder is leaked brake fluid. When I removed the wheel cylinder it was leaking from both sides.

And found the wheel cylinder on the driver side was leaking as well.

Thank you for the tip. I think I will go down that path.

Full brake job for my next spring project. I noticed my master cylinder is leaking onto my brake booster all of a sudden. Picture shows the paint at the bottom of the booster eaten away from the brake fluid. Also noticed my brake fluid has gotten really dark. Will be this weekend's repair and have ordered the 1" master cylinder, calipers, pads, shoes, springs for the drums, wheel cylinders, and hoses. Over due but it did appear a brake job had been completed on my camper at some point in the past 15-20 years ; ). I did new pads on the calipers 5 years ago, and have inspected the shoes a few times. Anyway.

The air lift suspension bag expands outward like a squished balloon when compressed. Be sure to make space to accommodate that expansion including room to accommodate full unexpected deflation due to valve failure in the event that were to occur.

These fine folks answered your air lift question correctly before I returned from crawling under mine. You have a different frame situation where the bags are installed. interesting addition on yours and the welds don't look too bad. Didn't you say on an earlier post you had the mounts for the original factory bags on your unit? I thought someone here some time ago mentioned firestone sold bags for the original mounts. Could be wrong. Anyway.

I installed them on mine a few years back and do not recall an issue with fitment. I also have an escaper (87). I'll crawl under there tomorrow and see what I did. I can't remember.

With steel radiator you may be able to fiddle with the wrong size a little, not much in terms of getting the shroud fitted and hood clearance. With aluminum it must be the right size. Aluminum radiators are fragile (to excess in most cases) and will easily be destroyed while struggling to jam the square peg in the round hole.

The fan clutch is not impacted by rpm's or speed and is only triggered by heat if it is the stock clutch. No electronic sensors.