Ctgriffi

I always start by turning on the campground spigot slightly and eyeballing the flow, dial it in where I know it's reasonable (~40psi or less). Then I shut it off, hook up my freshwater hose, and turn handle back to same approx. position. Maybe I'm living on the edge... 🤷‍♂️

It's a very creamy white, for sure, Linda—looks straight-up beige on my rig, but then again the paint is very old and not super-clean. Lots of places can mix up Toyota 033 in a spray can, of course... but prices were around $35-40 for a small-single, which I couldn't justify for this repair. So, kept looking for a close-enough match and landed on Krylon Fusion - Gloss Dover White, which I picked up at Ace Hardware. (Another option that folks mention on forums is Duplicolor's Wimbledon White, about $15 for a mini-can.) It worked out pretty great, after tons of prep, much sanding, etc. I'm letting the paint cure for awhile, before I try to blend old/new with super fine grit, but the color match is plenty good for an old motorhome. (New paint is much smoother and less orange-peel than what the factory did, too.) Photos below are the driver's door bottom right corner—one photo at the very start of rust removal and cleaning, then a final result after body filler/high-build primer/top-coat:

It does mention Toyota’s 033 there, but the cab is quite beige and matches the fiberglass coach. I’m assuming Winnebago painted the cab possibly?

Anybody know of a spray paint that's a decent match for the original beige cab of a 91 Winnebago Warrior? Not really looking for perfection—probably will just respray the cab completely at some point—but need a decent color match for some small repairs I'm doing. Thanks!

MC is pretty cheap and not too difficult to replace if you’re reasonably handy and have some metric wrenches and sockets around. I did it last year on my 91 Warrior. Best to have a second pair of legs around to help bleed, post-repair.

Plenty of info out there, like you noted, but I'll take a quick stab since my rig is also a 91... Front shocks: KYB KG5458 (KYB is not the gold standard in suspension, but these are quite good and also affordable) Rear shocks: KYB KG5438 Air bellows/bags: they don't really need servicing—they either hold air or they don't. In terms of replacement if they are punctured or leaking, lots of people like the AirLift 57113 LoadLifter 5000 package. You have shocks: two in front, two in back The shock installation, in my opinion, is just about the easiest (and biggest bang-for-the-buck) improvement that can be done on these 30+ year-old vehicles. You probably could find somebody to do a lift, but most would advise against it. I'm sure others will chime in on this. (Working air bags and properly set torsion bars might just get you a few inches of clearance.) In my experience, worn out rear-suspension bushings will also contribute to a very harsh ride.

Haven't come across one of these before, although my family had the standard Space Cruiser van in the mid 90s, when Dad was stationed in Europe. I remember the little mid-engine 6-cyl, just behind the driver's seat—that thing would generate enough heat through the carpeted lid to melt my little brother's crayons! (Also, I got it up to 100mph once, driving alone on a downhill stretch of the autobahn.) 😅 https://springfield.craigslist.org/rvs/d/springfield-1985-toyota-campervan/7485711182.html

What kind of fridge do you have? They’re not high draw units anyway, especially in RVs, so you don’t need to go big on converter amperage. I’ve used one of the Powermax PM3 units for the last 5 years (35A, I believe) and haven’t had any problems. Does a much better job of maintaining/protecting the coach battery, which is the main reason to upgrade from old Magnetek units.

You need to be looking for the right rear wheel cylinder on a Toyota 1-Ton Pickup; it's all about the chassis, not the coach or RV model, when you're talking bout auto parts. Your chassis might be an 89 or 90, but anyway here are some options: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1990,pickup,3.0l+v6,1277793,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+cylinder,1952

I'm dying for a climate where you can say that ^ ...we can't drive anywhere in half the year without the generator running our roof AC, full-blast, especially if we head toward the southern states! 😅

I second this. Everybody feels some nerves, doing certain jobs that they either haven't done before, or don't do very often. Take your time, use a good jack and jack stands, make sure you understand what you're doing and why, and go after it.

I don't know why they put 4-burner units in so many of these little, old rigs—we don't even use that many in our home kitchen, simultaneously, and we both cook quite a bit. I'd like to find a good 2-burner, stainless-steel cooktop to replace the old, beat-up unit and to reclaim some precious real estate. Anybody have a product they'd like to recommend? Also, any recommendations on new countertop material? (Something close to the original 1.125" thickness would make the job easier...)

My 91 has the tank and pump mounted on the floor inside the dinette bench closest to the cab. Might work for you, although you’d need a different cutout for fresh water fill, probably. There is also a small covered area along the wall that takes wires/water-lines to the rear, in the vicinity of where your tank is now. Looks like a good project. Keep it up!

Yeah, this is an interesting solution. Nice job. Do the mounting tabs on your custom bumper bolt directly to the bottom edge of the frame rails? Possibly straight through, bottom to top? Not so sure mine are in the kind of condition that I'd want to try something like that...

Here’s an SMP ignition module from RockAuto for a 92 chassis (likely what yours is): $119+shipping. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1992,pickup,3.0l+v6,1277940,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172