Ctgriffi

Not sure how the glass-and-seal could go in without cutting that weld, but I appreciate the feedback and here are some more pics! (Frame will get cleaned/sanded/repainted before assembly, don't worry.) Empty Frame - Front Side Frame w/Seal Partially Installed Seal Profile

Cool, sounds like you got a nice rig there. Would like to see some photos sometime. A lot of people do paint everything, which is fine... but the cabinet doors in our Warrior are all real oak and looked great after a sanding and re-poly. Still, all the original "pine mist" fabric had to go in mine, ha.

Thanks for the tip, Linda. So I got my old window frame completely removed and measured over the weekend—new tempered glass is ordered and on the way. But the plot thickens... somehow, I forgot that the main outer window frame, which tightly encloses the glass and rubber seal, is welded together at the joint! I guess I will have to take it apart with a cutting disc and then try to recreate a similar booger-bead during reassembly. I've done a bit of welding but never on thin aluminum channel like this, yikes. Part of me wonders if I couldn't just slather a good bit of JB Weld SteelStik in that area (which is hidden within the cabover wall), clamp it all for a good while, and cross my fingers...

Some of the interiors are better than others, but I tend to agree with the others. I would say, in general, all of these rigs can benefit from an extensive redo. (For example, when recently pulling down our old cabover window curtains for a wash, I was reminded just how much I disliked the original interior: I swear that Winnebago made those curtains out of some old-lady thrift store undergarments! They are just awful!)

Thanks for the tips, all! I'm looking at options and waiting on some quotes for 1/8" thick custom tempered glass. Careful measurements are crucial of course, but I'll probably put a CAD drawing together too 'cause I like to geek out on this stuff 😁 Btw, anybody have a product they like to use for cleaning/rejuvenating rubber seals?

It was tempered glass (small, not jagged) and looked to be original. It is a flat window but all corners have large radiuses.

Just finished a nice little trip to Lake of the Ozarks SP over a long weekend. Great weather, nice scenery, and tons of surprisingly tame, white-tailed deer, right up around the Warrior for most of our stay. Brought our e-bikes along, per usual, and the wife and I had a great time buzzing around the area. Unfortunately, heading out of the park and down the main park entry road on our way home, a loud crash was heard overhead, then a few pieces of debris rained down on the hood. The large 59x12" cabover window is gone, as you can see—most of the glass ended up inside the window curtain and on the mattress. Not sure if a falling branch struck the window or if a large bird impacted or what - ?! We drove home just fine but kept it under 55mph. First time that's happened to us in our eight years of ownership. So the question is whether to try and replace the glass... or to block off that unlucky window opening completely. The large rubber window seal is in pretty good shape, it appears, but I know these Class C cabover windows tend to be problematic, even from the factory. I'm reading through the forum posts on the subject, but feel free to chime in here if you have any thoughts/suggestions. Thanks!

I’ve got 98K on mine and running fine: I expect it to go another 50K+. But like Linda said… all depends a great deal on regular maintenance. If the 3.0 you’re looking at hasn’t had much love, I’d probably plan on doing timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment, rad flush + hoses, accessory belts, tune up (cap, rotor, plugs, wires), fuel filter, and a few bottles of injector cleaner.

You're right on both accounts, IF everything's still hooked up correctly and components are not kaputt. When on 120V (shore power) your converter/charger unit should juice up a low coach battery—a voltmeter attached to the battery, before and after plugging into shore power, should show you if that's the case pretty quickly. And, like you mentioned, the alternator will also charge the coach battery when the engine's running, if the wiring's still intact and if the isolator unit under the hood (keeps DC power usage in the coach from draining your starting battery) ain't broke. If none of the above is working right, you might wanna start a new thread in this section, Electrical; there are plenty of folks here who can walk you through everything. Welcome to the forum!

Great to hear about the success of your first trip—what an awesome rig! Thanks for sharing all the details and pics, along the way. (9.5mpg doesn't sound too bad, all things considered.) 👍👍

Hmm, I'm not seeing that—for a different year maybe? It's only been a few months since I got these for a 1990: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3321546&cc=1277793&pt=1316&jsn=1202

I don't know if anybody's been thinking about buying a set of seat covers for your cab, but thought I'd just mention that the Dash Designs products (found on Rock Auto) are pretty good quality and recommended. I removed our original Winnebago covers years ago, leaving just the gray vinyl underneath, which was still in great condition but not very comfortable for long trips in hot weather. So, decided to upgrade the cab with these silver "Medora Velour" seat covers. They're very plush and have some decent foam padding on the underside; makes roadtrips a lot nicer and more bearable for all. (It's probably worth noting that the back-side that faces the coach uses a different fabric—just a simple, stretchy material.) The only problem I ran into with installation was that the provided headrest covers were WAY too big... but an email to the Dash Designs support staff got that straightened out quickly and easily (maybe some of these trucks came with different model seats or headrests?).

I should mention up front: this is not a "recommended" or "approved" approach—it is purely experimental at this stage, although I will probably report back later with more conclusive results, especially if they're positive. So I've complained for a long time about the regular bumps and bangs up front, especially when taking the Warrior on extended trips. I would set the torsion bars to spec, with proper ground clearance up front, and then do some test drives—all felt good. However, once we were loaded with all the humans/dogs/gear on a real excursion, the suspension travel would virtually disappear and we'd all take a beating on rough roads. (Basically, like some of you have probably already realized, our torsion bars were not up to the job anymore and couldn't really handle the weight of the fully-loaded rig. And, by the way, lifting the rear-end higher by increasing pressure in the air bags, only exacerbates this kind of front-end problem.) So, the only replacement option out there these days for a '90 chassis, far as I know, is the always-backordered, $300+ Sway-A-Way bars. Which I probably should go head and do, yes. Goshdarnit. But, instead I did a bit of research and measuring and then came across a set of these Gabriel #34073 Front Load Carrier shocks at a discount price of $72 for the set. The extended/compressed dimensions are correct, the mounts are pretty close (more about that in a sec), and they're typically used on big hoopties from the 70s-80s, along with Suburbans and a few GM cargo vans, etc. The biggest reason to use these, of course, is that they add a few hundred pounds of lift to the front-end, which should be enough to maintain some decent suspension travel on an overloaded Toyota pickup, in tandem with the existing t-bars. Installation was not very difficult: the shocks slide in just fine from below and the upper mounts bolt up per usual with nut + locknut. The only real hurdle was that the lower mounts have a slot that needs to be opened up (basically to match the lower mounts on, for example, the KYB KG5458 shocks that I installed about 6 years ago). Modifying the lower mounts took less than 5 minutes with a hacksaw, and I made sure all that was very securely bolted to the control arms by using thick fender washers on the bottom, Grade 10.9 M8 flange bolts, with locknuts on the top side. It's too soon to say if this is "a real fix," but the initial driving that I've done has felt good, with less swaying/rocking in turns and more general smoothness. We'll continue to test with some actual, fully-loaded-camping around southern MO this Fall. That's all for now...!

Air Lift bags or something else? I’ve heard numbers from between 40-70psi; really depends on the weight of your rig and possibly a few other factors. Drive around and see what works.

Welcome to the forum. We've had a 91 Warrior (320RB) for the past 8 years or so. Hope you enjoy the motorhome!