Ctgriffi

Link to Aleko Awnings Discount code is LDSALE

They start at about $400 in terms of a brand new WH. Then you're probably looking at a couple hrs of skilled labor for the install, unless you can do the work. In terms of repairing an existing unit, propane water heaters (especially old units) are pretty simple and the parts are readily available. The big question would be: does the tank leak? If it does at all, scrap it and move on. If it doesn't leak and has been maintained, it might be worth installing a new gas control valve + pilot assembly, etc. Again, a lot of this depends on whether you (or a friend, family member) can do the work. If you need to hire out everything, these very old motorhomes can get real costly, real fast.

Caulking can be nearly an art form, seems like. And it can make or break the look of many projects. One trick I've learned, in cases where you have the time and want a near-perfect line: start with a straight, continuous run of masking tape—one piece on each side of the joint—then, after you apply the caulk and tool the joint with a wet fingertip, carefully remove each piece of tape (pulling it at an angle, away from the joint) before the caulk sets up.

In case you like pictures... here's a basic, inexpensive Group 27 deep cycle that lots of folks use (and no, they are not fun to carry!).

Warrior floor will never be rock solid, IMO: it has a light sheet-metal underbelly welded between the frame rails, with foam board on top, and a final layer of thin ply. I think it's reasonable to expect some flex. Long as the sheet metal layer is intact and not loose, you should be okay.

That does look like some pretty good stuff, thanks—100% waterproof and has a temp rating of -25º to 155ºF! I'm getting a bit tired of the white/gray flooring you see everywhere, so the Sundance Canyon Hickory product is calling my name... two boxes would do it. WME, I've considered the vinyl sheet option and have worked with that in the past, but just think the planks are going to be much easier to handle in a small space with tight corners and weird angles.

Anybody used a good vinyl plank in their rig—something durable that's worked well over time, in heat and cold? Want to avoid any separation between planks, warping, and curling! Appreciate any specific recommendations and/or links.

I've had the leaf springs off my 91 Warrior and didn't have to cut. Soak 'em with PB Blaster for a day or two—next use a torch for a few minutes: on the nut and up and down the threads. Breaker bar and socket should get it then.

Most big box stores just stock one, maybe two, varieties, but you can definitely order many different textures and colors if desired. (Menards is local to me; I ordered two sheets of textured Nudo-brand FRP from them on my shower rebuild.) I’d definitely recommend practicing a few cuts on a small scrap; it’s not the easiest material to handle, not like cutting ply or lauan.

New MC seems to have done the trick. I haven't dissected the old but it was clearly leaking a bit from the main rear seal, all down the front of the brake booster (broken/bad gasket between the two as well). I went with the Cardone 13-2530 which was delivered in two days for about $55; seems like a decent part and came with new reservoir, cap and float switch (I did paint the cylinder to deter rusting). I did the bench-bleed in my vise before installing and then got all the lines bled pretty easily after that. Pedal feels good and solid, and all fluid is clean and clear. Back in business.

Yeah, wasn't try to give any crap... you've got the can-do attitude and ability, asking all the right questions. Just making a general observation about life with an old RV. I'll be quiet now and let you get on with the thread!

These old RVs are a ton of work, and I feel your pain, hamkid... I mean, I get a kick out of working on 'em and keeping things alive—man-vs-machine and all that. Also, don't know about you, but there's no way in hell I could ever afford to have somebody do all the work that's needed on this rig! (And mine's just a '91.) And like you've noticed, it's "hard to find good help," as they say, and not getting any easier. I'm sure opinions vary, but I would never recommend a 30+ year old motorhome to anyone who's not at least a decent shade-tree mechanic (or has one or two in the family!). To the general public, I would say: If you don't have the necessary repair skills, health, and time BUT can somehow afford to pay somebody to do the near-constant repairs and maintenance... then you're probably better off spending bigger money on a newer, nicer rig in the first place.

Spent a little time installing a subway-tile backsplash in the kitchen area, caulking the seams, and then installing a new faucet. Not easy to find nice options for a 2-hole 4" center faucet with long reach spout (and I didn't want to drill any more holes), but I'm happy with the result: Backsplash: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RJ6QVXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dark Gray Caulk: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XCLJG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 4" Center Faucet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MJRK1KR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Decided this would be a good day to flush old fluid and replace with DOT 4 synthetic. Not my first brake job, by a long shot... but anyway, started with removing some old fluid from MC reservoir then refilling with new. Next, began bleeding brakes at right rear and spent a lot of time there, pumping brakes and draining old fluid, until new clean fluid appeared, and then until all air was removed. Left rear went faster, but... when I started on right front, things just didn't feel right anymore... pedal would go way down and not seeing much fluid pressure at any of the bleeder valves—some, but not much. Never felt like I could get any of the four bled properly after that. (Kept reservoir topped off entire time and never let it get very low.) Been at this a few hours now and don't feel like I'm getting any closer. Not seeing any fluid leaks anywhere. Does this sound like a bad master cylinder possibly? Not sure how old the unit is—looks to be AISIN. Is it possible for an old MC to go bad in middle of job, due to lots of heavy pumping? Appreciate any ideas 🙂

Extech showed a good photo of some great tools... here's that same list, along with a few other items that I find very useful for repairs and general maintenance: -cordless drill (18v or better, IMO) -side-cutter pliers -5-in-1 painter's tool -jigsaw w/coarse and fine blades -needle-nose pliers -carpenter's square -measuring tape -channel locks -razor blade scraper -phillips and regular screwdrivers (multi-screwdriver w/nut-driver is great!) -carpenter's pencil -sharpie marker -small prybars: metal and plastic -utility knife -oscillating multi-tool (cuts, sands, etc) -caulk gun -extension cord -LED headlamp -cheap multimeter -shop-vac