Ctgriffi

“Mintage”... that’s a new one for me, but I like it, haha! Sounds like you’ve already made up your mind, but I’d probably be running a gen off the back bumper to power the roof AC, with a fan or two to push the air up front. Awful handy to have one of those along anyways, and it won’t tax your little diesel.

It’s a very nice one, incredibly low miles. Up to 15K with a day to go...

Big box home stores usually have it, although only in plain white in my experience (special order for different colors). RV repair shop might sell you a piece or two.

I did exactly what you’re describing when I put a Fantastic Fan in the rear bath of my 91 Warrior a few years back. Worked out great, no issues. Use a high quality product (ie Dicor) and plenty of it.

I can’t remember if those two nuts were identical... I think the upper one, the lock nut, was slightly shorter, which seems to be what the parts diagram is showing. I’d probably purchase both nuts, for both sides, since they’re pretty inexpensive. They tend to take a beating when removed after 30+ years and you don’t want to round them off! Btw, no sense in tightening the upper locknut down, until you get it all finished, off the jack stands, and complete the ground-to-frame measurements (as seen in manual).

It's not compressed; that's the normal length. As you can see in your photo—basically same as what you pulled off.

Great to hear your update, Rachel, and thanks for posting some of your photos. Also, that dog is super cool. Always good to have a buddy on the road, especially when traveling alone!

Those are the Mevotech BJs, yeah? Grease em up.

Yep, looks right from here.

I used the new pin that was provided, with the offset and cotter pin, etc. No problems. You're gonna love how much better that thing drives/handles, once it's all said and done, btw. Keep it up!

If it's original, it probably does need replacing, but have you verified that it's definitely the fill hose that's actually damaged/punctured/cracked? I ask mostly because, last year, I dealt with a gas-smell issue on my rig and was startled to discover the "soft" fuel return lines near the tank had been almost completely chewed through! Was not hard to diagnose; gas was dripping out of there, steadily, whenever the motor was running! Just a thought...

That's it. I don't know that there's a specific torque recommended for that nut, but I would tighten it down until the rubber isolators just start to squish out, to the sides (i.e. it's looking a bit loose in your photo).

I did this job on mine a few years back, using the same Monore part, which has worked well for me. Anyway, I agree with WME about the order/installation: If you look at photo on the box your new stabilizer came in (posted, up above), do it like that, with the truck frame/bracket in between the two rubber isolators. Went and looked at that front end on mine just now, and that is ^ correct.

Others on the forum have purchased/installed new spring packs and can speak more specifically, But, in general, if you're getting new spring packs that are truly rated to handle the weight of your rig (which your supplier should verify), then you don't need the helpers.

That part is different than what I’ve seen, different than the OEM style bushings that I used. Is that an Energy Suspension bushing? Interesting that the original metal sleeve stays in the CA and gets reused... removing the sleeve was probably the hardest part of the whole front end rebuild for me; mine felt like it was welded in there! In terms of the orientation, yes, you typically install it from front to back, like your photo. (Yeah, wire wheels in a drill are excellent for rust/paint removal; they also come in lots of shapes and sizes too.)