Ctgriffi

Yeah, that's ^ exactly why I ended up doing the cloth, pull-down blinds for that one, single window—because of the rear wall angle. Good luck with the project!

I felt much the same when I got my '91 Warrior (not a Sunrader, sorry!). I immediately removed all the dirty, ugly old metal blinds and put up rods and custom curtains (also removed the old, clunky velour-covered valance boxes). One window I did differently, however, which was the rear-facing one in my bath—I used these cloth blinds that are made for RVs and much closer to what you'll find in modern rigs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSSMMF15?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1 (installation was kind of a pain, but I'm happy overall and they look great).

What MC did you buy exactly? A new master cylinder doesn't need any parts—you just unbolt the old one and swap in the new, very straightforward (although follow the instructions for bench-bleeding the new MC, and then obviously make sure all brakes are bled thoroughly after the install).

I'm in the process of pulling off all of the roof-to-wall corner trim on the Warrior, cleaning everything really well and resealing with a long, continuous piece of corner-tape and the original trim, to keep things tight and dry for years to come. At some point in the last 34 years, somebody decided to heap huge amounts of gray sealant all over the trim (with a smattering of white bathroom caulk, sheesh)—I guess it's done the trick, but it's ugly as sin and I'd like to make sure everything is decent underneath the original "repair." Each side of the coach has three different trim sections—the front and rear are the typical aluminum corner trim that fits the coach profile and is screwed in place, with a vinyl insert strip to finish it off. But there is also this center section (seen in the photo) which is different and just has a number of stainless screws through the top, holding it down. What's the best practice for this center section, to seal it well and have a decent, professional appearance? Do I need to cover each screw head with a big fat dollop of sealant, or can I just shoot some into each hole, before driving the screws? The original screws look like a #8 3/4" pan-head but I'd like to replace with slightly longer, for more bite—yea or nay?

I put this on mine (‘90 chassis) four years ago and works fine. I did paint the body of it to prevent corrosion. I liked that it came with new reservoir and cap. (Whoops, might be out of stock at the moment.) https://a.co/d/iwGNOAB

Great progress, Doug! Really cool to see this thing coming together, piece by piece. What do you estimate the weight of your fridge being, when it's full of groceries? You've got my own wheels spinning as I try to think about how to best replace my own Norcold 875EG2 someday, since its dimensions are well nigh impossible to match exactly with a modern unit. I might need to make a little, custom cubby to make up the difference and utilize the space.

Hard to imagine it would be so hard to find with all these engines still out there! @Odyssey 4x4 I’ve still got the “Schley Products 88250” set from when I did the job. If you’re desperate, I’ll loan it out for the cost of shipping, to and from—message me if you need/want to go that route.

Nice work and great to see the progress, Doug! Plenty of good ideas in here, too, for anybody else that's going to attempt the same/similar. Wish I could pitch in and help. It's gonna be a really nice rig when it's all said/done. I mean... it'll probably never be "done done" ha—I know I can never stop working on mine, here and there—but it'll be so satisfying to hit the mostly-done-milestone, take it out on the open road, and get some trips logged. 👏👏

I put this simple design together a few weeks ago, printed it out, and am pretty happy with the snug fit. Hope it comes in handy for somebody else with a 3D Printer! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7094151

As far as the truck itself, I’d want to know when the timing belt was done as well as valve adjustment; these are important/pricey items on the V6 and important, especially if overdue. On the coach side of things, verify the operation of all appliances; these can be expensive to replace, so you need to know specifics on what works or doesn’t. Also, roof leaks are unfortunately quite common and can cause serious damage involving difficult repairs if not addressed promptly. Photos would help a lot in establishing the value. But, all that said, based on your description, I don’t think I’d do more than 8-10K.

I think they do help with sway, yes, mostly cause my torsion bars are probably worn out. The shocks definitely keep the front end from “crashing” or bottoming out so often, which is a big plus. The back end, on the other hand, still feels pretty rough despite many efforts—I’m going to look at my bushings again to check their condition. Always looking for ride improvements!

How goes the Sunrader build, Doug? Still making headway?

I assume this ^ was a "marketing post" from The AC Whisperer, but I would just point out: it's totally doable to run "generator-powered air conditioning" while driving down the road—I do it all the time, and there's no need to be parked.

In my opinion, if you’re keeping an eye on the level and able to add 1/2-1QT occasionally to offset leaks and stay in the safe range on the dipstick… well, you can do that for a LONG time with no serious repercussions to the engine itself. (Although, yes, it’s messy, a pain to monitor, and NOT ecologically responsible to do so long term.)

The Warrior has a roof sandwich consisting of aluminum, lauan (very thin plywood), foam board, another layer of lauan and, finally, an adhesive-backed wallpaper-like material. The complete roof is about an inch thick total (could’ve measured it this morning if I’d thought of it, because I just replaced a roof vent). Walls are very similar except fiberglass skin outside instead of aluminum.