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Scott iv

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by Scott iv

  1. From the pictures looks like a nice model. Rear dining area is desirable. No specific info on that model from me but a few general considerations as an owner of a non fiberglass unit and owner of numerous other campers: - Coachman was a reputable brand then and made quality campers - I am envious of the manual transmission and think that is a big plus. Clutch replacement is more manageable than automatic transmission replacement if ever needed. My understanding is the gear ratio on the manual transmissions work well. - Hunt for leaks in the camper ceiling by looking in cupboards, corners, and the overhead bed compartment. Inquire about what current owner did to repair the leaks and plan on researching ways to address and prevent leaks; all non fiberglass Toyota motorhomes leak at this point unless the owners have been incredibly diligent. Touch and press on spots in the ceiling that look unusual, discolored or wrinkled to determine integrity; is the wood firm, soft, crunchy, etc... - fridge is a pricey item, be sure to inquire about function in all 3 ways; gas, electric, dc. Look at the propane tank and see whether the valve is open or closed. If the valve is closed ask why so you know about propane leaks. Ask about all camper appliances and heater. Look in water heater area for water damage; not just the outside compartment, but inside as well. - the 22re motor was designed to not leak any fluids. Look underneath the engine for drips of any fluids. Leaks will have to be addressed promptly. Ask the owner whether the motor has ever overheated while they owned it. Take it easy with it if you buy it for a few until you can be sure the cooling systems are working properly (radiator, hoses, fan clutch, belts, pulleys, temp gauge in the cab). Ownership of these is a labor of love. Plan on needing to repair and maintain the vehicle no matter what the owner says about it due to age. Overall, very reliable once you address aged components.
  2. A house I owned in Milwaukee 25 yrs ago had a lime green, yellow, and tan patterned linoleum glued to the walls to a height of 4ft from the floor. It was topped off with a stainless steel molding. You wouldn't believe how ugly it was. Was a lot of hard work to remove it. I can be done.
  3. I agree with Ctgriffi's suggestion about becoming the best shade tree mechanic you can be. I think these trucks are reliable once most everything under the hood has been gone through and I mean most everything. Double whammy with these trucks being old, and RV's generally sitting a lot more than other older vehicles which wears the rubber components. A thoroughly gone through 22re is very reliable. If you do the work yourself you will have an awareness of most likely issues and will know the tools and parts to have on hand (at the least a spare set of belts) if you're leaving civilization. I find myself looking under the hood and inspecting after every trip I take to try to catch potential issues.
  4. I'm not a sunrader owner but admire how well these vehicles have held up over the years. Most manufacturers don't build vehicles with the expectation they are still in use 40+ years later; especially rv manufacturers.
  5. You will need a 3000w + inverter to run the microwave and have anything left to spare power wise. The inverter will be pricey and you don't want to risk an ultra budget model. Plan on running one dedicated circuit from the inverter to the microwave to maximize the efficiency (no power strip, splitting power). Pay attention to the BMS power output ratings on the batteries. Some will limit the amount of discharge power at any one time. Low temp battery protection BMS is a must in cold climates unless you plan on lugging the battery in and out of the camper. I run a 2000w inverter and use a 750w microwave and it pushes my system.
  6. I had an astro and wasn't impressed. Myriad small problems and irritations. Uncomfortable small driver compartment and I am not a tall man. Bad gas mileage stock; as a camper probably comparable to the other big America class C's. Looks neat but a pass from me.
  7. Hopefully she's now good for many trouble free miles!
  8. Cool to see this process in images. Many have done this, but I don't recall anyone documenting in photos.
  9. You're doing the right thing by asking a lot of questions before buying. Ask away as a lot of folks here learned from many mistakes and there is a lot of owner knowledge. An old timing chain with low miles shouldn't matter, however, an old low mile motor is not always a good thing. Seems counter intuitive. A lot of people will jump on a low mileage vehicle. But modern motors (70's to present especially) have gaskets that rely on a regular soaking of oil or whatever other fluid they are in place to hold. The gaskets dry out when not used regularly and then fail when they are re exposed to the heat a motor produces.
  10. As you consider the 6 cyl Toyota motorhomes be sure to ask about when the valves were last checked. I see the one had a timing chain replace but that still doesn't mean they checked the valves. The 3vze motor requires hands on maintenance with the valves as does the 22re. Many dead 3vze's because the valve clearance checks were avoided. Can go about 100k before valve clearance becomes a serious issue requiring major time and expense (totaled to many). The 3vze valve clearance check takes shop time as it requires specific tools to hold down the buckets while you measure the clearance, and if the valves are tight, replacement shims have to be ordered (most shops won't have the shims readily on hand). A costly regular interval maintenance job if you want to keep the machine alive long term. It'd be worth purchasing the tool needed to hold down the shim buckets so you can learn to do the job at home if you own one.
  11. These motorhomes don't die easy, but now that they're in their 30's and 40's they do get hurt a lot.
  12. I know beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but I really like the dual vertical windows on your machine. Of course the beauty of owning one of these is making it however you like. Yours looks great the way it currently sits IMO (and I know you didn't ask).
  13. The V6 is a strong motor but is still old school in the sense it requires regular hands on maintenance. A very common problem I see on the forums and online is burnt exhaust valves. The valve clearances have to be measured at recommended intervals and there is a learning curve to the style valves the 3.0 has; bucket shim style. More often than not I've seen significant valve issues at the 100,000 mark on these and likely because no one got in there to measure and install new shims. https://madison.craigslist.org/rvs/d/new-lisbon-1990-toyota-winnebago-warrior/7662618279.html
  14. Is that the oversized "emergency exit" vent up front? I saw what I thought was a dolphin out my way with one, but you don't see too many like it. Camper looks real nice.
  15. It will sell locally as a non running toyota motorhome. The motor likely isn't completely dead. An honest post on craigslist or facebook will sell it. It is not worthless and I would try to sell it whole; not parting it out. Choose a number and post it; if no one bites for a few weeks, reduce. Hopefully you have somewhere it can sit while you list and wait. Especially if the camper is useable/ liveable/ non leaking.
  16. The coolant leak is an immediate and problem in need of repair. Regardless if you get it started you do not want to drive it without tracking down the leak.
  17. Excellent advice. And now that phones all have cameras, pictures pictures pictures.
  18. I put my motorhome to work this Summer.
  19. Unless you plan to try to resell the old, you can just do what it takes to get it out; disassemble up to and including sawzall. May just slide out the door after you remove the fridge door. The original 3 way fridge in my Escaper came out the door once i removed the fridge door and fridge door brackets. I may have had to remove the pilot light cover to but nothing too dramatic.
  20. If cost was the same I would go brand new. But know yourself. Are you able to disassemble the new fridge if needed to get it into your camper? Or remove parts of the camper to get it in? Or would having someone come get it in there and connected to the gas and dc be an additional cost.
  21. Was under the motorhome yesterday and noticed one of the black water tank straps had rusted through. I have repaired rusted straps holding both tanks a few times. Wanted to give mention to this as a maintenance item for others to inspect. Don't want the tanks falling off on the road.
  22. You'll want the Smokey Mountain Auto to remove the rear hub caps to confirm it is a full floating rear axle. That is likely the reason it has been sitting. You do not want it if it doesn't have a full floating axle (look on here for information about full floating axle as it is very commonly discussed. Sealing windows is not difficult and requires mainly elbow grease. However, the damage that may have resulted from driving around with leaking windows over years may be another matter. The plumbing is different from model to model. In most models you will have some of the tubing running through/ under walls to get from the water tank to the various locations. There is a water pump, a fresh water tank, and grey and black holding tanks. Have to wonder why previous owner didn't even try it? The tanks are not easy to come by and if any are damaged it will make the plumbing project more challenging depending on the extent of the damage.
  23. I did a brake job on my 87 escaper this Spring and found my wheel cylinders on both sides had leaks you could only see after removing the drums.
  24. Despite low miles, age causes havoc on brakes. In the motorcycle world pad separation due to age is a very significant concern. The pad, even with little wear, brakes free from the steel back plate due to the age of the materials being out in elements. There are 3 rubber hoses in your brake system: one for each caliper up front, and one feeding the 2 wheel cylinders in back. Check for brake fluid leaks at the master cylinder and follow the brake lines to each caliper and to the wheel cylinders. Rubber parts do not age well. I'm betting the rubber brake hoses have a recommended replacement interval and it is not once every 35 years. I highly recommend a brake inspection (either yourself, or whomever you take the machine to) based on the age of the vehicle.
  25. Your expense will depend on whether you are willing to tackle the mechanical issues or pay someone to do it for you. Look hard all over the ceiling, below the windows, around the vents, in the cabinets, and throughout the bunk area for water intrusion. Plan on sealing the water out right away; if no leaks get on the roof and assess how recent the roof was coated and plan on coating and taking care of it. Toyota 22re versions are not difficult to work on. A lot of information online as it has remained a very popular motor world wide. Parts are available and information on repairing most anything. There will be work to be done unless the previous owner spent a lot of time sorting it. The 22re was designed to not leak any fluid. If you see leaks of any kind on the motor or the ground plan on taking care of it.
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