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Toyota Advanced Member
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About WME

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1986 Escape, rear bed, side bath, A/C, 2.8 Onan 22re, auto.
    Current rig 2003 30ft Winnebago Brave Class A
    Workhouse chassis, slide
  • Location
    Riverton WY

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    Camping, fishing, kayaking, OLD CARS

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  1. If your going to remove the transmission already. Then remove and inspect everything you can just unbolt and clean them. Pump, oil pan, OD solenoid and such like. Any crud you clean out can only extend its life. The Toyota transmission filter looks like it's made from a screen door A rebuild pump is $75-$100.
  2. Do you have a volt meter?? A conversation with out you having one is a waste of bandwidth. Please make a new post in the electrical section. This one is 2 years old and is full of the original posters junk
  3. Fuel filler hose is $$$ as others have said. Like $1.00+ an INCH. A hack that will help SOMETIMES is to use 2" exhaust tubing to make curves. The tubing comes in 30, 45, 60 and 90 degree prebent and of course straight . Just use a hose clamp at each joint.
  4. Try a search for "door skins". Maybe a product like OOP'S will soak through the wood and lose the glue.
  5. FWIW the plywood is most likely Luan plywood 3mm or 1/8" also available in 6mm. Most big box home supply stores have it
  6. Unless you have a smart isolator, your converter 12v output should go direct to the house battery and not to the isolator. Factory set up doesn't charge the truck battery. The isolator is used to charge the truck battery and the house battery only when the alternator is running. A normal deep cycle LifePo4 battery makes a poor starter battery due to the BMS discharge limits. LifePo4 automotive starter are just becoming available and are priced accordingly. Standard LifePo4 12v 100ah battery is in the $300 range and a starter battery is $450+ AND then a LifePo4 rated alternator๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜. Also due to the charging cycle of Lifepo4 BMS they can be very hard on stock alternators due to being able to take a 100 amp charge. and a Toy alter is only 60 amps so you would be running it full tilt and it will quickly overheat. Also the battery can go from full tilt to 0 in the blink of an eye. Alternators don't like this. The DC to DC charger will prevent all this and acts as an isolator. All things considered K.I.S.S
  7. Lifepo4 rated converter direct to battery. The DC to DC charger does have limits and you need to understand them. But for small Toyota size setups it's easy and fast. I have shore power, a 5.5kw generator and a 2000w inverter. There is an automatic transfer switch (ats) between shore power and the generator. I also installed an Gopower GP-TS 30 ATS between the inverter and converter. When your using the inverter the ATS unplugs the converter so your not trying to charge the 12v battery when your running the inverter off the battery. That would be Perpetual motion, right๐Ÿ˜ So my AC power flow is 1. generator power powers everything, 2. shore power powers everything, 3 Inverter powers everything EXCEPT converter and AC. It's all automatic no plug and unplug stuff. It seems backwards between generator and shore power, but that prevents the generator or inverter from back feeding the shore power plug if you were into shore power, the power failed and you started the generator or inverter. Anybody working on the down shore power line much appreciates this.
  8. Got the same problem AGM starter battery and a 12v 200ah lifepo4 house battery. Here is info on my solution. If you don't have solar this is a good choice BECAUSE it has a built in MPPT solar controller and you can add solar later by buying just solar panels Same person on both links, Will Prowse Wire diagram. https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/simplified-400-watt-fewer-wires-and-alternator-charging.html Review .
  9. Toyota 22r compression specs, warm engine Nominal 170 psi Minimum 142 psi Max variation between high and low cylinder 14 psi Remove ALL the sparkplugs, block the throttle wide open, EFI? remove the fuel pump fuse. Then do the compression check. If the readings are low, a couple squirts of oil in each cylinder, one at a time and then bump the start for a few revs. Recheck compression, if still low, suspect bad valves. If the readings jump up to normal, suspect bad rings
  10. The rear sway bar can be mounted 2 ways. 1. Like the front, the crossbar is mounted to the frame and the arms to the axle. 2. The cross bar is mounted to the axle and the arms are mounted to the frame. Both work equally well. Of course you will need bushings, brackets and end links to match your install.
  11. In reality there probably 2 or 3 Chinese factories that make all the "other brand" generators, changing the color and shape of the housing. So brand is a moot point. Honda and Yamaha make generators in Jpn, Chn, Tha and even USA
  12. I would normally say to check out the Harbor Freight generators, as I have had very good luck with them. But they have reshuffled their line up and their generators are too large or too small (2000w or 3500w). Champion has a good lineup of generators. Linda and extech have good points about noise and weight. If you are using a portable Genset you want to run it on the ground so your RV doesn't act like a sound board and of course you want it as far away as possible. Just remember to chain it to the RV so it doesn't "grow legs and walk away"
  13. Recpro says 2500w minimum. The Honda is right on the line. A hot day and compressor restarts maybe too much for it.
  14. semi desperate plan to fix broken fuel level sender.
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