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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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About WME

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    Over 200 Posts!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Camping, fishing, kayaking, OLD CARS

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1986 Escape, rear bed, side bath, A/C, 2.8 Onan 22re, auto.
    Current rig 2003 30ft Winnebago Brave Class A
    Workhouse chassis, slide
  • Location
    Riverton WY

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  1. The condenser is outside coil (hot), the evaporator is the inside coil (cold).
  2. ^^ what he said. Clean condenser and evaporator coils A properly working AC will drop the air temp across the coil 20-30 degrees. It should take less than 15 min to reach this temp drop. It will take much longer to cool the house down.
  3. Just go to Amazon and search 5x7 LED conversion kit. Beware there are thousands. Also go to Utube and same search for reviews. You need to look for tests of complete units not just the bulb. The lens quality is just as important as the bulb. "E-spec" lens are the best. You get what you pay for. The high power LED conversions use almost as much power as your old bulbs so a proper relay setup is a good idea. I can't remember for sure, but I think Toyota uses a - switch so make sure about the relay setup.
  4. So, like how's my battery doing??? https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-battery-monitors/ I have #3 , it does real good.
  5. My Escaper had 7 leafs and a factory rear anti away bar. P.S. It had factory airbags also.
  6. Maybe, possibly, sorta of...https://www.addco.net/product/toyota-pickup-2wd-1984-95-rear/
  7. KISS, just update your converter to a modern 3 or 4 stage converter. https://www.bestconverter.com/Upgrade-Kits-for-MagnetekParallax_c_64.html Solar panels are black and in full sun, they get HOT cooling air on the under side is very important
  8. When all is done and the dust settles, will you have extra 6 bolt rims and nuts?? There is always a market here for them, so you could help out a needy fellow toy house owner. P.S. Solar panels weigh a whole bunch less then 4 or 5 batteries
  9. Check the grounds. Should be a large wire from the battery- to the truck chassis. Clean the contacts. Add a same size wire from the chassis ground point to the engine.
  10. The tag joint pinch bolt should line up with the flat in the shaft. After you get the steering wheel hooked up, turn it as far as it will go in one direction and turn it all the other way, counting the turns. Turn it back 1/2 the way. Make sure the front wheels are pointed straight ahead. Install pitman arm and see how things align
  11. I "think" that this vintage truck has a separate voltage regulator, was it replaced? Check the voltage (13.5v) at the alternator output. See if there is an isolator. If there is follow the + wire from the alternator to the isolator. Then follow the + wire from the battery. Connect both wires to the same terminal on the isolator. Check the voltage again on the ganged terminal and the battery. All the components have been bypassed so it's all about the wire. The missing battery is moot. When you get home we can help you troubleshoot better.
  12. Unplug the 12v heater and use an ohm meter to check resistance. Open means it's burned out. 0 ohms is also bad. 1-2 ohms is good. This is a very low reading and requires a good meter.
  13. A battery monitor is a good deal, get one that reads capacity and not just voltage. All though you can find charts that will help you convert v to capacity. A battery "gas" gauge is much handier. Also if you running your generator sitting on the ground, get a chain and chain it to your bumper.
  14. Good plan, IF you don't camp in the rain😝
  15. Do you have the "tool" to hold the flange? If you can hold the flange against 100 lb ft of torque, then go for it. If you cant then you need the wheels on the ground, with chocks to lock the flange.
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