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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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About WME

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Camping, fishing, kayaking, OLD CARS

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1986 Escape, rear bed, side bath, A/C, 2.8 Onan 22re, auto.
    Current rig 2003 30ft Winnebago Brave Class A
    Workhouse chassis, slide
  • Location
    Riverton WY

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WME's Achievements

  1. Linda these should scratch most of your itches. https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1986-SPORT-28-BOAT-BOATERHOME-258792 https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1987-FORD-E-350-CUSTOM--VAN-BOATERHOME-258793
  2. Well get your Lotto tickets early and often😁 It will be sold at the Monterey auction 18 Aug
  3. Something else...https://www.mecum.com/lots/CA0822-519696/2000-dodge-xplorer-xcursion-25-motorhome/
  4. Ya I suppose no leaks has a higher priority than purrdy😆.
  5. Just connect it. When on shore power or engine alternator the solar controller will limit the solar charge.
  6. I think windows will help a bunch🤪
  7. Any chance of getting a paint match on the filon?
  8. Gel Cost repair paste? I dunno know seems to good to be true. However it's sold on Amazon https://www.gogolonge.com/products/instafix-fiberglass-boat-repair-paste
  9. A 1986 Toyota gas gauge sender is rated at, full= 3 ohms +-2 1/2 = 32.5 ohms +-4 empty= 110 ohms +-7 written 110-3 ohms, most universal senders are 90 ohm and reversed, written 0-90 ohms. There are reversed units but the resistance is wrong, 240-33. You basically need the correct Toyota unit Plan B... a converter...https://www.ebay.com/itm/284800388484?hash=item424f6d0d84:g:aiYAAOSwP2hic3ZQ&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8MZ9Go5ZbnSX92OLBl%2FImTRLD36bpV%2BW%2BVDojZsGw1C1ktOp45MAuUShhwXYRONAEgQEcn3a10DsWzDguWGQny4syp%2BigWWtsZzv2U7kqYDUcNlIqp4B05oCb7bc%2FwX2%2FaN7SuXoKGMvYYyJxNW1zPfkBcE0uCvup8o1XDIYu7zoSdsOF%2B2DNtLd%2Fk3qY7sd3bIcMD3JYNqsMP2WBLcNv%2BwSlKlCG4mDCr8Joyffm6vjvwawNWpMCcKPRMDibiFdU%2FHzkHM45sKQ0viqK%2BTVIdvibDib2RnK52EzymQzhpUxzMedbJlvOFwUA32rhxrseA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM_P_Kqqxg
  10. Head to your local big box store. Here is an Ebay replacement...https://www.ebay.com/itm/403419307429?hash=item5dedaa1da5:g:ndEAAOSwIqtfPOnD
  11. While you have the wheels off to do the shocks, look at the springs, bushings and shackle bolts. To do the bushings you need to jack up both sides of the rv. Use a rated jack stand ahead of the front of the spring mount. Put the jack under the axle and unbolt one end of one spring and lower the axle. Use the BFH and vise grips to remove the old bushings. Note some bushings have a steel sleeve inside some have a steel adapter ring on the outside. It depends on your original and your replacement. Warning only do one at a time, so you have a sample of how it goes back together. There are longer rear shackles available from a car parts store if you want to raise the rear end a little.
  12. Lets say shocks are 1x hard, bushings are 2x. Changing the springs is 3x. Bushings are 3/8" tool stuff and lots of penetrating oil due to corroded fittings. Bushings are 80% of doing the springs. There is some 1/2" tool stuff, like the ubolts A BFH, Floor jacks and Jack stands are a requirement.
  13. step 1 new shocks per above step 2 Replace rear spring bushings (3 sets per spring) With worn bushings the spring ends bang up and down on the bolts. The spring should flex. step 3 Replace rear springs, OLD MAN EMU seems to be the preferred source, CSR010R or CSR020R depending on things
  14. Hey Mr. Odyssey 4x4. Check out the $$$
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