WME

Sold, $26,500

Now is your chance... skip all the bothersome part of building your own. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1984-toyota-pickup-12/

1 day left, current bid $500

👍

Actually very interesting, bolt in HP for a lot of Toyota M/Hs. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/engine-50/

Toyota M/H are to be driven at the "speed of smell". As you learned they are the tortoise of the RV world. BUT you got to where you were going to.

What engine?? Typically the best thing is to change the rear axle ratio. Search around this site.

What bolt??

Interesting idea to get a smaller AC for a toyhouse. Like something you could run off 300ah of LFP and a small inverter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lT50dvHcOE

Give us a jingle when you and your tribe get back. We can slowly walk you through your charging system.

More P.S. Your fancy pants VOM most likely has a red + lead and a black - lead. Be very aware that most RV's are wired black is + and white is -. Of course the P/O could have spliced in purple and yellow. Just check voltages carefully

Fancy Pants voltmeter is an acceptable substitute for a cheap Harbor Freight VOM😁

This is part 2 There is a lot of techno babble following. For most Lead acid and AGM batteries the charging parameters are close enough so that it doesn't really matter to your alternator. LifePo4 (LFP) is a totally different creature, When charging a discharged LFP they can act almost like a dead short and will draw the maximum power that your alternator will put out. Auto alternators are designed to put out a lot of amps for a short time to quickly recharge your car battery. When you run them at max output for an extended period of time they get HOT and bad things can happen. Also some LFP batteries control system, the BMS, just shuts off the charging cycle instantly, that leaves a lot of charging amps bouncing around in your electrical system for a bit, until the alternator regulator gets things under control. That power surge is very hard on things. A DC 2 DC charger will limit the amount of power coming from the alternator to a safe level AND it will adjust the charging voltage to the LFP to exactly the best voltage for the battery. Have fun P.S. LFP are not bad so to speak, but they are different. A LFP that is the same physical size as a lead acid has 2x the usable power and weighs 1/2 as much. For maximum life span a L/A battery has a max discharge rating of 50%, a AGM can be in the 60-70% range and will charge a bit faster. A LFP can be discharge 100% and recharge fastest of all.

Thats a little strange. There should be 3 of the larger wires connected to the isolator. 1. Goes from the back of the alternator to the isolator 2. Goes from the same terminal as #1 and then to the car battery. 3. Goes from the other side terminal on the isolator to the house battery. It looks like you have a auto reset circuit breaker in the house battery line, Good plan. I only see 2 large wires on the isolator, and what looks like a previous owner (PO) kludge job on another wire. At this point in your life as a Toy owner you need to get a cheap digital volt meter from Harbor Freight and learn how to use it. It's simple and will save you endless aggravation. https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html

Under the hood there should be an isolater for the house battery. It looks like a 4x6 bos with fins OR something the size of an old 35mm film canister. Can you look and see what you have and post a picture. You will have to disconnect 1 wire.