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So, got the LAST piece of the Owens Corning XPS up today. By Sunday I hope to try glueing up the first piece of celling paneling. Need to figure out how to mark it for the puck lights, and get the wiring in place for that beforehand. I can already tell the benefit of the insulation as I've kept the interior as warm as possible with a 1500W electric heater for 3 weeks as I've been glueing and epoxying. For the first time, it's shutting down periodically at the medium setting now. it used to run 24/7. The roof is the highest heat loss and the best place to put good insulation, and it shows.

Nevermind - I thought there was an adjuster TOOL being discussed. This if for an actual part in the rear drums. Thank you - got it now.

Defrag goofed a bit when he posted this. This is for the right side. This is for the left Toyota 47406-30020 Linda S

Yeah can't open heic files on my phone or computer Linda S

I just got this vehicle. Work in progress, Most stuff is there, except the bed and some doors. 22R engine. still has the original label from the factory. IMG_5732.HEIC IMG_5756.HEIC IMG_5753.HEIC

Toyota Part No: 47405-30020

I couldn't find anything on a couple searches, fyi. If you know the part or have a link, would be super handy!

I'd like to have a bubble level up at the driver's seat, as that's when I want the information - as I'm moving back and forth to find a level spot. We camp 90% of the time on rough ground, or unimproved camp grounds that don't have level pavement parking spots. My plan is once it's built I will find level on the cooktop/counter top as nothing's more annoying than having a large frypan with oil all sitting pooled at one edge. Then I'll move to the driver's seat and mount a simple solid bracket with a bubble level attached where I can look straight down at it, adjust things until it also shows level. That will be my "level" from then on. From my research, the fridge has some allowed tolerance to perfectly level and when I install it, I'll shim it to the counter/cooktop's version of level so they also match. Don't want crooked ice cubes, dont'cha know!!? Heh.

very good point. i use an app on my phone -laser level. just always put it in the same place on the counter

If you are facing the front of your refer, left to right is the most critical. That said here are 3 different bullseye levels side by side setting on a counter top. You pick which one is correct if you have only one! You should find level first on your freezer tray then match it to somewhere on a countertop. But as you can see not all bullseye levels tell the truth!

Same to you! Looks fun, must be down south…

The Westafalia, Chinook idea is being reborn. Bring your money in a wheelbarrow. Warning its a sale pitch, but ideas transfer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJDDo_wZDSE

Very cool. We'd love to see some pics. Linda S

Yep that's exactly what it is, and it has the original drivers side sticker from them still on it. Also doesn't have windows in the front, has the indent for it though.

I'm guessing it doesn't say Chinook anywhere. Very possible you do have a small camper that looks just like a Chinook. General RV bought the shell molds from Chinook and made them through 1984. Not a lot of them, but they do exist. Oh and General RV is the same company as Odyssey. Linda S

I know this is a very old thread, but I have a 1982 Chinook with a 22R. They exist.

Thanks for the caution that mine may be different. Once I have the ceiling insulated, just a few days from now, I'll be pulling a wall panel off for the first time and confirming measurements. I can't believe how strong that foam lamination is. Pretty cool and the lightness factor is off the scale. Wiring will be a snap - just punch a hole where you need it. Looking forward to seeing what you're going to end up designing. I'm using Loctite PL Max which cures at temps as low as 19 degrees IIRC. I need that as I'm in N. Idaho working outside and I'm also looking for incredible strength to make the entire roof stronger yet. As to voids, I'm laying it down thick (nearly an entire tube per 8" wide piece!) to account for undulations. However the roof skin is quite uniform, having been pushed into the shape of the gently curved beams - which eliminated a lot of wobbling in the skin as I found it. So, confident I'm getting broad coverage up there. For the bottom of the insulation, I bought a serrated trowel and I'm planning to spread the Loctite on 100% of the 1/8" mahogany 4x8 sheets I'm glueing up. So, I should have some serious additional roof strength. Essentially compared to your foam laminate, I have a FAR stronger top laminate (3/16 glas mat), and the 1/8 mahogany panel is high quality and perhaps compare to your fiberglass in resisting flex. So, I'm hoping when I step on the roof between the beams, I'll hardly notice any deflection. Post up some pictures, Bob! Ciao!

Importantly, the polyisocanurate panels turn out to be a very poor choice against cold. As temps drop, that stuff oddly loses its R factor where the XPS does not. Seems almost criminal they do not disclose that - like they made the stuff to perform well at the govt standard's test temp (74 deg?) but saved money on the rest of the temp spectrum - the cold end where you MOST need it!

Doug, your interior layout is different than mine, and I believe some of your window sizes are different also. Don't know if different windows translates into different thickness. I measured again the existing wood still in the frames that haven't been removed yet and it is 1/2". To be sure, you have to find out for sure what your are, but just sayin'. On gluing the foamular together, I'm using Gorilla Glue heavy duty construction adhesive and if gluing an insert into the foamular, using Gorilla Glue itself. The Gorilla Glue expands in case there is voids created in the holes, the construction adhesive doesn't. A lot of testing on the net on what works best with this method of construction. I'll expand on the cloth and resin as I go along. You can see in the pics, how strong an open sided sample "box" is and that is one layer of 2.5oz cloth and epoxy inside and out. Imagine if it was a cabinet with a shelf or two and the back side foam also. I have sat upon that "box" many times with my feet up to demonstrate and I'm 185+/-.

This is a little late for yall, but maybe for the next update. https://learnmetrics.com/insulation-r-value-chart-per-inch/

Looking good, Doug. I'm sure that's how I will have to proceed on mine.

search brake parts numbers on this site

Anyone know where I can get the drum brake adjusters for the dual wheel brakes? The parts store only has them listed for the 1/2 ton, and the lever arm that turns the gear looks quite different at least in the picture. Rockauto is the same even tried looking at different years, no luck yet. Called the dealership no luck, (granted the guy on the phone didn't seem very helpful or knowledgeable). So far I have not been able to source them for the dual wheel axle. Or does anyone know if there is there a part for a different make that happens to be the same?

Today I got the first few insulation boards up on the ceiling. The fit is what I'd hoped in terms of the beams and insulation being the same level. Should make for a good process glueing up the interior wood paneling. Unfortunately my plan to use 3M HD 90 spray on contact adhesive did not work out. Even though it says OK for some foams it's not OK for this. Reverted to using the Loctite which unfortunately makes it a days long process of gluing, propping up and curing, then moving on. Versus a couple hours of slapping foam chunks up there - argh.