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- Yesterday
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Attention moderator or Greg. I’ve been unable to access my account. I finally got in on this device. When I attempt account recovery, I get a prompt saying my email address is not on record or the email address I’m using belongs to another member. same if I try to reset my password. It’s very frustrating. I’m attaching my email address here. If you need to contact me, please email me directly. fredbheath@yahoo.com It would also be beneficial for the moderator (if we have one) to establish a direct email address for members to get help if unable to log in to their account. Otherwise, the same problem could happen again with no way to report it. Thank You. Fred
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WME, I will know to the pound. I weighed it and have a certified scale receipt with all the original stuff inside, except the front and rear upholstery before I did a single thing, as I knew one day I would want to know how much weight I added. I'm guessing perhaps 250lbs? So I will weigh it before the 2nd battery, the winch bumper, the rear hitch, and the winch, and the 1 ton full floater rear axle are added. I will know in a month or so, as I am very close! Sunday will be an amazing speed build day. I have literally dozens of interior components sitting around painted with 3 coats now. Today I finished the last coat on the ceiling (pic below). So, Sunday I'll put in the kitchen countertop, and perhaps all 136 feet of stained and varnished trim, reinstall the drawers and perhaps even put the drawer faces on. Today, I also glued on the underhung sink, so now the countertop can be installed and secured in place. That was scary for me as I cut the opening precisely (nerve wracking, also) and I want the fit with the sink to also be as perfect as possible as it will be a bit of a show piece. At the last minute, I realized I had not painted the furnace grill from the original brown crackle coat to black to match the interior scheme. Heres where I left off today: Closeup of the underhung sink adhesive - happy with the uniform squeezeout: Furnace grille now black (masked the label to preserve it):
- Last week
- Earlier
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I Just read the light cover post. I have the same light fixture and ordered replacement cover from this link a while back. Best !!! https://www.walmart.com/ip/Specialty-Recreation-SR33101-Replacement-Light-Lens-for-Lighted-Assist-Handle/175204032
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Make sure and get one that has an actual ground wire on it since the camper won’t be grounded by attaching the socket alone.
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The 26g fresh water tank arrived, and I am still snickering about the randomness of this upgrade. It replaced the 21g from the factory for a whopping 25% increase in onboard water. I stuffed it in place to trial fit and it friction fits as if I made the slightly larger space for it, which I did not. It's slightly larger for more comfortable seating than the factory height. Here's a picture. The plywood back of the cushion that covers it actually lightly touches the top of the tank, plus it's shorter and allows more room behind it, and bonus - the weight of the water moves forward a few inches toward the axle and away from being suspended far back on the frame:
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Good to know. My plan was not to use a scrap of pine anywhere in this build. Only Mahogany, Cedar, and the Baltic Birch structural plywood. Now, doing Poplar drawer faces and a couple cabinet drawers. Today, I primed about 65% of the interior, as well as the drawers. The rear window frames are out to be painted black like the one by the kitchen for a much more modern look. I even stuck the screws into foam and painted them satin black. Here's the primer going up:
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Thank you so much 🙏🏽🙏🏽
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FYI I eventually fixed the Check Engine Light that was mad about missing the trans temp signal by shoving a 10K ohm resistor in the trans temp sender plug to make the ECU happy
- 197 replies
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- motor replace
- 5vz-fe
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I had this exact issue, I figured out it was a failed charcoal vapor canister under the hood. There's a vent line that goes from the fuel tank to the vapor canister. The vapor canister has an internal valve controller by engine vacuum. It decides when to vent fuel vapor from the tank to atmosphere or to engine intake depending on temp and throttle conditions. There is a vacuum line going to the vapor canister coming from the "bimetal vacuum switching valve" that's location on the rear side of your intake manifold between the manifold and the firewall. It is a line with 2 blue (very fragile) plastic nipples coming off. This is the vacuum switch that controls the valve inside of the vapor canister. If I remember correctly, the vapor canister has a hose coming from the fuel tank, a hose that vents to "atmosphere", mine runs into the frame rail, a hose that runs to the engine intake, and the vacuum lines that control the valve. The valve in my vapor canister has rusted and seized shut, not allowing the tank vapor pressure to release and giving the conditions you described, over pressurizing the tank. You can no longer get a 3vze specific replacement canister. You can either find one at a junk yard in unknown condition, or find another works canister from a different vehicle. I went the second route and it seems to be working.
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The bulb is a common 1141, uses the same socket as the even more common 1156. Should be able to find something based on that. mine works so haven’t had to take it apart.
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We are on a trip across country in our 1989 Toyota motorhome with the 3VZE engine. We are experiencing a problem that is slowly getting worse, where it appears that we need to fuel more and more frequently. The engine starts to stumble, and at one point died completely when it still had fuel in the tank. I’ve had problems in the past where the fuel pump became disconnected from the pick up tube, and the fuel pump became disconnected from its filter, so fuel is left in the tank unusable. However, we’re noticing a new phenomena with this; there is an audible hiss when we take the cap off the fuel tank. I’m thinking that perhaps there is a blocked fuel vent and air cannot replace burned fuel in the tank. How does the fuel vent connect to the tank, and where does it go? Could this be blocked and causing a problem?
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Got all the drawer faces built yesterday and today out of 3/4" solid Poplar. I needed some very wide planks and this was all I found around town - in 11.5" wide. So, to make the largest two faces, I had to edge glue some overnight, then cut it down to side and finally I dressed the edges up with a hand router I borrowed from a buddy. This project is the first time I've use a router, and I'm pretty impressed with what they can do. Took my drawer faces from simple nice shapes to some nice interest. It's not a lot of work once the drawer faces are cut to size, though the "first timer" thing had me stressing as I have a lot of time invested in them before this final step!
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Ctgriffi started following Where is the control panel?
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Do you know how/where to turn your water pump on? That’s all you really need for camping—the tank levels and battery charge status are nice to have but not a must.
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I have looked everywhere. I think it's too old.
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Thank you!
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Would there even be one on a 80? I’d look underneath at the holding tanks and see if there’s any indication that a indicator is in the tank 1st. If there is then chase the wires into the coach
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Mine is on the edge of the range hood.
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Okay, maybe it's the monitor panel. Where it tells you water levels, etc?
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mio mio started following Outside light cover
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Those enybody know where I can get the light socket for this patio light
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What are you calling the “control panel”? fuse panel?
