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Not too far and not a Toyota but close. Nissan Sunrader, axle is correct. Needs some work but you could probably get it cheaper Sunrader, Nissan 1984 - rvs - by owner - vehicle automotive sale (craigslist.org) Linda S

Thank you!

Yes, I've been thinking about this for some time and considered those issues. The exhaust would be routed to exit the same location as the current generator. Cooling might be interesting but if the plastic is removed I'm guessing that should assist. Point taken regarding noise, so I would line the space first with some heatproof noise insulation. Do you have any pics that you could share?

Don't discount what Maineah said. It can dangerous and deadly, and needs to be thought through. Removing the panels on the generator will reduce the amount of noise reduction; that is the main reason for the panels. I cut the bottom of my box out, welded a steel frame lowering the generator in the box, and the box is in open air in the bottom. I didn't have the electric cord you are referring to. Fan cooling, ventilation, and exhaust rerouting are the key. It is doable but you don't want to just squeeze the generator in there and run it.

I'd be very interested to learn more about this as I am thinking about doing the same thing, using a small inverter generator - 2000w or thereabouts. I was thinking of removing the plastic panels and gas tank from the generator and then squeezing it into the current generator space - likely have to remove the current electrical cord that is sorted there. I know it would mean fabricating exhaust and fan cooling solutions but seems do-able!

He's got single wheels in back and a tiny camper. Original axle can more than handle it. Linda S

What are you running for a rear axle?

Paint looks cool. I'll take some pics tomorrow of how the canvas attaches. On the chinook it's just stapled and glued

Well I now see this post lol. I got the old flange off and put on a twist flange. The new one is on, hope I didn’t crack anything tho. It’s on tight. I will say the rubber pipe coming up from the holding tank seemed Malleable still. So I should be ok. The old flange was cracked and almost all my screws were rusted out and really not holding the flange down.

If it’s a standard residential toilet flange you can buy repair kits at most hardware and big box stores. Don’t try to pry or remove what’s there. They’re usually bonded to a DVW fitting.

So do you know if it’s just slightly pressed in or threaded in or glued in? My fear is it might be glued in. My new toilet will come with the foam seal ring. But my flange is blown out some and needs to be replaced.

Wow There is a lot to see this is a good one though nice campground there too. vermonttourismnetwork.com/quechee-gorge-vermonts-little-grand-canyon/

They are standard plumbing fittings the only difference is the material for the flange seal do not use a standard wax toilet seal there are ones just for RV's they don't melt in hot weather!

Ok here is the deal with RV generators they exhaust out the bottom, both heat and engine exhaust putting a portable generator in a box is not a real good ideal. Good place to store it but run it on the ground out side.

The pinion seal is leaking, so I did something wrong. I had to put everything back together without installing new leaf springs. I’m towing it to a mechanic, he is gonna finish it for me. Thanks for all the help and knowledge!!! I will post pics once it’s all done.

Modern Onan generators built into RV's are very quiet. Onan's are just very expensive and the smallest ones would still require modification to fit our small spaces. Most of the 80cc generators(I'm betting that is the size of the Champion above) have a very similar noise level. Decibel ratings are all at low load on eco mode. Driving an AC with one of these ramps up the motor and the sound. Finding a way to build the generator into your RV compartment dampens the sound outside some. The compartment needs to be well insulated to make the sound tolerable inside the RV. The compartment has to be

I was on vacation last week and couldn't look much. I clicked your link an hour after you posted it, but it was already deleted. Thanks for trying.

Thank you everyone. While my dream is crushed, i guess it's better to be safe then sorry. I had to pass on it after mulling it over that past week.

I found and purchased a nice10’ awning at the scrapyard. It is hopefully going onto my Mini Cruiser. I was cleaning stuff up and moving it around and decided to take a closer look at it last night. I have questions.... I will get a model/make off the awning tonight (forget what it was), but it is a nice one that stores in a clamshell kinda case with three latches. I looked for installation videos or instructions but mostly just found ones on replacing the fabric. I have ave a fair idea how to physically install it, mainly looking for guidelines. Just found one set going into

Anyone know if the toilet flange that the toilet bolts to come right out or is it usually glued in or screwed in? Mine doesn’t allow me to bolt my toilet down very tight. It’s blown out some, where the bolts slide in. Wondering if anyone knew what kind of job I was getting into to replace that?

Here's some updated pics of the exterior after paint! Color is "mission control" grey

Hey Kevin sorry for such a late response life has been getting in the way of my restoration project. I wanted to ask if you have any pictures of how your canvas top is stapled and glued? Bought some royal blue waterproof canvas fabric that should look nice. Just need a visual example to get me going. Thanks for your help!

A few notes on what I've learned about the vinyl too in case it helps somebody else: - It's easier to work with when warm or hot. This goes for removing the old vinyl as well as putting in the new vinyl. If you try to remove the old stuff when it's cold it will break into a bunch of little pieces. Doing it when hot it will pull off in a long strip. - I started with the white vinyl and on my Sunrader it looked very white compared to the fiberglass and the other yellowed trim and stuff. I've ordered some off-white to try and I'm hoping it blends in a little better.

Thinking about it, when I took the screws out, they were VERY hard to get out. They are definitely broken off at the ends - they are not all quite the same length and the ends are sheared off. Given how hard they are to get out, I suspect they are twisting off and breaking when I go to take them out. I'm guessing I can't take them all out, put sealant in and then put them back since some of them are different lengths where they've broken off at slightly different places. (One of the longer ones would have trouble going into a whole with another piece broken off in it.) I could

My mistake with the fiberglass method was probably not getting a good enough slurry and too tight a weave on the fiberglass.