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What is your travel itinerary? We've stayed at wonderful private family run camp grounds and horrible state camp grounds. When we traveled in our toy the schedule was Walmart x2 and then a camp ground. Charge batteries off camp ground shore power (pre solar), now days not a problem, Dump holding tanks, every other camp ground do laundry
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I did a 3.4 swap two years ago. I got about 12 mpg with the 3.0 before it lost a valve. I now get 14 to 15 running back and forth over the mountains from Central Oregon to the valley. I have a 2002 ,3.4, 1995 throttle body. Using the stock automatic transmission with 4.88 rear gears. I am able to drive in overdrive most of the time. I only shut off the overdrive when going over the mountain. Going up the grade in drive at about 40. I used the stock intake and filter. I don't think using a K&N is a good idea when you have a throttle body. If you get to much oil on the filter you will mess up your intake. I love this setup. I did it myself and cost me about $3800.00 after selling all the good parts of the wrecked 4Runner.
- Yesterday
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What Should I Know Before Staying at RV Parks?
MaineJed replied to jocepap's topic in General Discussion
We try to stay at State Parks, never have an issue with loudness. Could always stay at 55+ parks, they are very quiet after 6. -
Looking for Miro-flex 348 red lense for my 92 miniwinney. paulowinger@gmail.com. thanks
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What Should I Know Before Staying at RV Parks?
jocepap replied to jocepap's topic in General Discussion
thanks in advance for any help -
Hi everyone, I’m planning a road trip and considering staying at RV parks along the way. I would love to hear your experiences and recommendations. What should I look for when choosing a good RV park in terms of safety, cleanliness, hookups, and amenities? Are there any hidden costs or common issues that first-time visitors should be aware of? Also, how easy is it to find availability during peak travel seasons? I am especially interested in parks that are family-friendly and quiet at night. Any tips on booking ahead or saving money would be greatly appreciated.
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jocepap joined the community
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Thanks a bunch. Good Ideas.
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Whatever you choose, buy a couple extra against the possibility one or more fail and the exact model is no longer available to replace. They're pretty cheap.
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85Coach joined the community
- Last week
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E-bay. 10,000 choices. 99.9% are made in China. Choice of flush mount, ceiling mount (replacement for OEM) , under cabinet swivel mount. Many ceiling lights have a adjustable color temp. Just in case choose those that use common LED replacement bulbs, although most use surface mount clusters that aren't replaceable.
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YoungSage started following Replacing my Sunrader Interior Light Fixtures
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Does anyone have a recommendation for high quality LED light fixtures to replace the vintage fixtures in a Sunrader? Thanks!
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Xvazlypn started following Leaf spring bushings 1993 warrior
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That's a clever idea - gave the oil time to thoroughly migrate into the bearing. So, today I got the 90 degree wall next to the bath unit mostly done. It friction fits in place and is held in by itself. I need to paint the back side of it, and cut a hole for a 120V wall plug. I'm putting one in the master closet (this is the forward wall), so we can charge things in the closet like laptops and cell phones out of view. Everyone seems to want to charge their stuff out on counters, but if I'm away from the vehicle, I'd prefer some concealment. This will have several USB ports as well as house current. There will be several other outlets around the RV as well, of course. Looking forward to installing this soon.
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greyvm17 joined the community
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Motorhome isn’t made from 3/8” thick C glass either, more like 1/16” chopper gun.
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Now it's 2026, and if you have a fiberglass rv , you know how durable and water tight they are. As a retired 30 year boat builder, we routinely backed all though deck fitting. We mostly used stainless steel plates of metal a few inches wide and long. You can only imagine the pull of sailboat sailed on the forestay/backstay during heavy winds. These backing plates have lasted in boats for over 65 years. My awning has three through bolts, well sealed and each backed with 1/4" SS 4"x3" plate. It will not leak! If anything, a 16' metal awning offers + structural integrity. These fears of poking holes in the RV should be reserved to the roof. Here, you must pay attention to prep. A dirty RV will not seal properly. Use a high quality sealant that expands.
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Wahaj Ali changed their profile photo
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Wahaj Ali joined the community
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It may be a while. Last time I looked for it I could not find it. I was ordering some bearings from a place back east and was $6 short of free shipping. Ordered this little syringe with a tiny flattened and stiff plastic nose on it. You can push the rubber weather seal back with the nose, and squeeze oil/grease into the bearing. Do this in a few spots and a noisy bearing is good to go. I've used it on engine belt idler pulleys and a few small appliances. Google the term "Bearing grease syringe" and I now see others have similar products. It's the stiff tip that lets you momentarily displace a typical bearing's rubber weather/dust seal. If I can find mine later, I'll post a picture. If I can't find it, I'll use a syringe modified with the heat of a match to flatten, and perhaps sandpaper to narrow it to accomplish the same thing. HTH.
- Earlier
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Good point. I opened the burner up last night and it looks brand new - zero soot or blackening. Wonder if it was barely used since the vehicle has only 32k on it? I'll look at the fan/bearing very closely. Even light use would not make up for bearing grease/oil that's hardened with age. Perhaps I can sneak a lot of oil in there. I have a device that helps lubricate bearings by pulling the tiny rubber seal back and pressurizing it. Yeah, looking for a quiet motor.....
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Looks like a satisfying job and worth it, given that lots of the older, low-tech stuff will outlive the new stuff, if maintained. I pulled my Hydroflame a few years back and did similar—turned out well, only I wish I had gone ahead and replaced the blower motor entirely (lubed the bearings which helped but didn't entirely solve the rattle/screech).
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a photo would be step 1
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Post a pic, sounds like a Sandtana
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Hi! This may be an obvious question for some of you but ink could use some help identifying what exactly my rv is. It’s registered as a 1983 Toyota Sunrader pop top but it’s not a pop top, it’s a tilt top, I’ve not been able to find a Sunrader that looks like mine. In addition to the tilt top difference, the area over the cab is not big enough for a bed, another thing I can’t find on a Sunrader… the bathroom (unfortunately) is not like Sunraders and is legit just a toilet, (I’d love the wet bath in sunraders, with a water heater too??? Omg dreamy) any ideas what this may be? My best guess is a ranger ez Ryder or a sandtana. Or Am I way off and it’s just a Sunrader that’s not at all common ? Any thoughts would be appreciated More importantly, we may have misplaced the sole key to start this thing and getting a replacement key looks like it has the potential to be difficult. I read that Toyota dealerships or locksmiths should be able to do this with a blank key or even the vin. Then I’d read disappointing posts from dealership employees that said they couldn’t make keys that old , others that said they would, and even contradictions about locksmiths too. Anyone know how Incan accomplish this? Thank you!
