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Rob: See where you have put in laminate flooring, took off closet door, changed the jack knife sofa to a stand alone. I just raised mine up with a 4"X4" block of wood. Makes it much easier to get up out of it. Also built a ladder to get in and out of the over the cab bed. Picture shows a piece of wood at the top to put between bed and cab access. I was getting out and it broke sent me flying toward the windshield. Needless to say I cut a piece of bed rail metal and replaced the wood . Also ran the furnace T-STAT wire to a switch at head of bed to cut it on and off when it gets cold in the morning before I get out of bed (LAZY) but we don't use the furnace at night , just before we get up so it's not so cold getting up.

Just a reminder that all the Sunland Express models are aluminum frame - I discovered this when i installed a window in the bathroom on mine, pretty heavy duty aluminum beams on the rear wall. Mine would probably be trashed from water damage if I didn't have the solid frame. It's approaching 40 years old and I just did a 350 mile round trip in her - truck's holding up fine but I've pretty much replaced every major appliance and I'm getting ready to go Lipo4 with the battery, change out the converter, replace my aging and inadequate roof A/C and the propane tank as well. Not really interested in selling her so I may as well finish the job... she'll always be my "best" Toyota camper lol

next, check for fuel in the hoses to the canisters on the left side of the lower diagram. (says to fuel tank on them)

Pretty sure extech didn't write it in Russian. I banned a bunch of scammers yesterday but looks like they were able to weasel in some other way. Please do not answer private messages until I get this figured out. Have to contact Greg and that usually takes some time. Linda S If it only looks like Russian to me please let me know. Could be only I got hacked

I have determined that it is time for a new converter/charger. I have a 1993 warrior. Is there anything I should know? I'm aiming for it to just fit the 12"x14" space. I took photos and video of the wires to make sure I know what goes where.

Thanks for the advice, I removed the vacuum hose from the accelerator pump with the engine running and it was completely dry inside. With the hose removed, the engine still runs the same; the problem with rich fuel was not affected by removing the hose. At least I can exclude this part.

Thanks to both of you for the advice. It has a mechanical fuel pump and I’ve tried spraying carb cleaner in the carb while starting but still no start. I’ll check for spark next

spray a little carb cleaner down the carb and see if it starts. if it does you have a fuel prob. if not check for spark. you can pull the coil wire out of the distributer cap and put it near metal and crank the engine

Bad fuel, clogged fuel filter, or bad fuel pump is first thing that comes to mind. If you have an induction timing light you can attach it to each plug wire in turn to determine if spark is getting to the plugs. Check your fuse panel. A blown fuse for the fuel pump could also be an issue. ( I’m guessing you have an in tank pump).

1985 Huntsman with 22r, Weber carburetor, manual transmission, 102,000. I’ve had it for 9 years. Fixed many things with help from this forum. We did our big 6-month trip in this happy snail-mobile in 2015 but have had to let it sit for long stints while we lived abroad since then. In the last 2 years it has been driven very little. But recently I’ve been having to move it frequently to make room for a retaining wall/driveway project where it is normally parked. For the last year or so it has always taken exactly three tries to start. I pump the accelerator a few times as I crank it and on the third try it always starts. However when starting it recently, it often stalls if I don’t give it gas or put it in gear and drive away right away. Both the difficulty starting it and the recent stalling led me to think the carburetor was the culprit and needed to be serviced/rebuilt. Today it cranks but it will not start. Other things I’ve noticed: the starter has oil all over it. I replaced the started a few years ago and I’ve known for a long time about the slow oil leak that is the reason for the oil on the starter. However, since the vehicle cranks it doesn’t seem like a starter problem. I’ve confirmed that the carburetor is getting fuel. I’ve also adjusted the mixture screw to try it more rich and more lean. Not sure what to check next. I replaced spark plugs and distributor a few years ago. I guess I need to check for spark and check the timing. Hopefully someone can confirm if my problem is more likely the carb based on the symptoms I’ve described. Thanks in advance for your help!

The Denso replacement comes with ester oil that isn’t as compatible with r134a. That’s because it was the original specification for that vehicle, and Denso is hardcore about sticking with a consistent design. Just get a second bottle of PAG oil and do a flush of the compressor before installing it if using a Denso compressor. Also get a jug of ipa and flush the system out to remove any oil residue. Toyota recommendation sort of skips over that part… After doing all that, I could hang meat inside our cab, nice and chilly.

I came across this R12 to R134A conversion guide from Toyota the other day, which includes all '86-'94 models. AC R12 to R134A Conversion TSB.pdf

rrrrr r134 conversion

this looks like Have one to sell? Sell now eBay item number:235667646850 looks like a deal if you want to go to 134a. i would not use the pag oil however. ester oil instead

Right again Linda. Don’t know what I was thinking about.

Sorry Fred but all 2wd Toyota pickups from 79 to 95 have a centered differential which means the axles are the same length. 2wd width is 56 but a 4x4 from 79 to 85 is only 55" Might explain the too short axle he bought if it was only a little bit short. Linda S

Standard Toyota pickup rear axle is rated 1/2 ton. The axle carries an F292 designation on the build plate. It uses two different length axle shafts. Identified as left or right. It has a 7 1/2” R&P. The foolie axle carries a GO82 designation. The axle shafts are equal length and can be used on either side. It has an 8” R&P. Most motorhome c&c have the GO82 axle from the factory. Although it is possible to find an F292 on some light weight rv’s using a conventional truck chassis with the bed removed. Determine which axle you have before sourcing parts. 1/2 ton parts are plentiful on aftermarket. GO82 (foolie) is more difficult. Linda does have a source.

Just checked. Looks like they have the full floater too. Linda S

This place has left and right side shaft http://www.maxwellsauto.com/ In BC Linda S I am assuming you have 5 lug wheels. 6 lug is a different matter

No magic, get a VOM and check fuses and voltages. There also fuses or C/Bs in the leads going to the battery

I think the converter maybe ok because I hear a hum and feel the heat from it. However, I never hear the fan from the charger. I opened it up and thought this may be the issue.

single rear wheel axle is just a toyota pu. wrecking yard

I’m in Victoria BC Canada. I bought an 85 Toyota RV (Okangan) the short one!! got it all fixed up and in great shape. but one rear axle is shot. Mechanic got one on eBay and shipped up and its too short. anyone know where I can source another axle?? I just need one but have no idea where to find it!

Thank you again Linda!

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