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Because the old chargers were not real well regulated they can be hard on the battery long term. In your case it still can be used to power all of the necessary devices lights, water pump etc they are good at that. Because you are plugged in you have a source of constant power I would suggest a battery maintainer. Disconnect the battery and charge it with the little maintainer plugged into any convent outlet. They make a fairly cheap battery switch that can installed on the battery post to disconnect the battery from the camper so when you need the battery it's just a matter of turning the swi

If you stay away from the automatic transmission your going to limit yourself greatly

Coincidence can be a funny thing. I got on FB Marketplace this morning, and was immediately presented with an ad for one of these nearby, at a pretty low price. I may or may not go check it out just on GP - I'm not quite ready to buy, and this one looks and sounds (description) quite a bit rougher than I'd like. It does prompt me to ask a couple more questions, however. First, it is described as simply "1985 Toyota Mini Cruiser" and that is the only identification that shows in the photos. I had not previously run across that name. Who built the coachwork for this one? Also, it has an automati

This post is from a year ago and that Sunrader is long gone. If you know where to buy one cheaper I would be surprised. A salvage unit just sold for $2500 , a thousand over asking price. Linda S Oh and it sold in 3 days

I would send them an email and ask why it isn't metric. Tell them you have 10,000 Toyota group members who need to know. Maybe not that many here but between all the groups there are and I have a big mouth. Nice rig Linda S Oh and you have a vented door under the 4X4 label. Is there still a generator in there? Oh and did you buy this rig from Steve?

I know where to buy cheaper, I can share

When i went to thread in the brake line it stripped out the flare nut. When i looked up the part number on Dormans website it lists the part for Toyota 1-ton, but 3/8-24 port thread. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-25723-w37654.aspx The wheels appear to be custom 6 lug steel wheels.

Rock Auto has several and that part number is among them. I can't imagine a company making parts for a Toyota without it being metric. Could the part you got have been packaged wrong?. Here's what they've got and all of these have the Toyota factory part number as alternate part # ending in 26090 Just curious do you have custom 15 inch dually wheels in the back? Linda Daily Driver BECK/ARNLEY 0728396 {#4755026090, P9466, WC37654} Info FitsRear; RWD; 1 Ton orRear; RWD; Cab & Chassis

Yes, it was upgraded to the full float. I kinda assumed the drum brakes and hard lines to the "T" union were all part of the rear end upgrade correct? If it was a Toyota full float axle, wouldnt all the brake fittings be Metric? Or were there various rear ends uses for these upgrades?

Refresh my memory. Do you have an upgraded full floater? Linda

Thanks for putting this parts list together...used it to rebuild my rear brakes recently. I decided to just change out everything since it requires some work to get into the drums. I did notice one thing with the Rear Wheel Cylinder - Dorman W37654. They appear to be a exact match except for the brake line port. W37654 has US thread 3/8-24, but all the brake flare fittings on the camper are all Metric 10mm-1.0. They will thread in but easily crossthread. Has anyone else run into this issue? I am going to cut the lines and switcth the flare fittings to US thread instead of rem

I have a crappy old converter in my Sunrader but I left it plugged in for years. Thing is I also always had the fridge turned on 120 during this time. I got tired of removing all the condiments so I just didn't do it anymore. I was ready to go anytime and I liked that. During that time my Everstart still lasted 5 years. I think the fridge used enough power to draw enough away from the battery so it didn't cook. I did check the battery though every couple of months and add as needed but it was never close to dry. If your living in it your using that power. I'm sure lots will disagree with me bu

What converter do you have??

Hi! Am I over charging/harming my house battery (Everstart marine/RV battery) by being plugged in all the time (24/7) into a 30 amp 120V receptacle (my shore power)? Reason is I'll be living in my Micro Mini RV for a few months (90 days straight or thereabouts), and I'll always be plugged in. Should I unplug the house battery, leave things alone, or do something else? Any other "living in an RV" advice welcome, too. I've "lived" in my Micro Mini for two weeks in my backyard and so far and I must say it's been a breeze. I have a gray/black water sewage line I'm connected to

All of us with an automatic and 4 cylinder engine have the same transmission. I have spent 15 years tracking down solutions for our members on the internet and like I said yours appears to be the only one. We would love to know when you figure it out or fix it. Linda S

I wouldn't call it out thinking it. The only trans I know of that will downshift to compensate for a grade is the 6 speed Allison in my GMC pickup, if it is in tow/haul mode. All of the rest I've driven; GM and Mopar have stayed in the gear selected. If no else has seen this issue with this model trans under similar circumstances then the next thing to try is adjusting the throttle/kickdown cable.

Do you have the same tranny in yours?

If I shift into 3rd when it is in second with my foot off the gas, it shifts into 3rd. If I have my foot on the gas it is already in 3rd so nothing changes when I shift it into 3rd. I have 50+ years experience wrenching on cars and trucks and have worked as a mechanic and have never seen the situation where an auto trans would shift up beyond the selected gear unless the shift linkage was out of adjustment. My trans shifts crisply and feels solid in general. If others in Googleland have seen this non-standard behavior with this transmission they either just shrugged it

You might have a different floor plan but this is a pic of a 1990 Dolphin power center with the breakers and fuses. See the square metal door under the sofa near the rear part of the sofa. That's what your looking for Linda S

You probably have a GFCI outlet that has tripped. Your AC in the coach is the same as in your house. First check the outlet the microwave is plugged into. Does it have a “push to reset “ button? If not, check the other outlets for one. If you can find none it might be the breaker. Check your house breaker next. See if it has tripped. Most important, breakers and GFCI outlets are designed to shut the power off if they sense a problem. Try unplugging your microwave oven. Once you restore power plug it back in. If the breaker shuts off again the problem is with the microwave, or you’ve excee

I am a new motorhome owner and am having an incredibly frustrating issue. I was plugged in at a camp ground and, after turning on a microwave, lost all power. I have tested and am getting power from the extension cord, but nothing will turn on. I am guessing that its a breaker or fuse, but I can't find the fuse box anywhere! Does anyone know where I should look? I have a 1990 dolphin toyota.

OK next couple of steps. Clean and adjust the spark gap electrodes. The control board maybe trying to light the gas (that's the click you hear) but the spark gap is dirty or out of adjustment If that doesn't help check out a new igniter board....http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Nor_boards.htm

I'm new here and came across this post. There is a 1984 Nissan RV (not a Sunrader) at the Fontana, CA. LKQ Pick Your Part. I stopped by to take a look and took pics of what's left on the rear axle.