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Onan supplied a long length of flat cable similar to trailer wire with the remote start panel. This allows you to place the start switch anywhere you want it. I’m lazy, so all my interior controls are within arms reach of the bed. Both heat thermostat and generator start switch for morning coffee and A/C when needed.

i"m adding a microlite 2800 to my 84 dolphin 700. can anyone tell me where the origional remote start switch was placed in the house?

i second the leak problem just replaced two cracked leaking plastic frame vents . with two new metal frame vents. recent early camp trip one week heavy rain last day bathroom and center vent leaking. these where original 1987 . when replacing vents aways replace with metal frame vents. cab over was already a newer metal frame unit.on another note the new suburban furnece worked great very quite and hot took a while too burn off the stink.

If the GFI is tripping the GFI is a AC issue. Nothing battery powered light's, fans etc. If you have things plugged in unplug them all of them, plug the camper back in and what happens. If the GFI doesn't trip plug them in one at a time. The AC is line powered and fridge possibly is too make sure they are off. It is possible your converter can cause tripping but only on the AC side. Older GFI were finicky and had a lot off tripping issues if all else fails replace it they are cheap. Coach wiring color is not industry standard you might find any thing. Usually white is ground black is + it's more common but you can't count on it. My Nova Star + was blue and ground was green.

T, just reading your 3 posts gave me a headache. You seem to be a victim of the curse of an old RV, a rabid previous owner 😱. I'll try to help starting with very basic steps so stay with me. Wiring color codes 110v AC, green/bare wire ground, white neutral, black hot. 12v DC under the hood. red +, black -. 12v DC in the RV black +, white - (ground) Any red wire in the RV 12v section is most likely a PO addition so watch out for them. Look at the wires on your battery are they stranded? Are ANY of them solid wire? (bad) Things to actually do, in addition to a volt meter you need a AC polarity checker. Use the checker on the shore power to verify it's OK. Then with the RV plugged in check each outlet to make sure it's correct. Then CAREFULLY use the voltmeter to check for stray voltage between a shore power ground and the frame of the RV. Folks on damp conditions and bare feet have been zapped steeping on the metal step. All good? Then hook up the black wires to the +battery, then hook up 1 white wire at a time until all of them are on the - terminal. Big sparks or smoke stop, un hook wire🤪 Report findings ,

I'm sorry to keep posting, one more thing, where I'm plugged into 110 shore power, I keep popping the GFI breaker on the 110 outlet I'm plugged into. Sometimes with nothing plugged in at all inside of the camper, and sometimes when I run the roof air conditioner for a few hours, especially overnight it'll pop the GFI breaker on the 110 outlet that I'm plugged into. Just thought I would throw that out there because that's just another mystery! I would really appreciate some input from somebody that might have same or similar issues.

P.S. I just went down and bought five 30 amp inline fuses that I'm going to wire up to the five existing wires in the coach battery compartment before I attach any of them to the new coach battery. So if I have anything incorrect, I should blow a fuse before I would hurt any accessory, or worse yet, melt any wires. But any help with the five wires in the coach battery compartment, two black and three white, would certainly be much appreciated, if anybody knows or has any of the same kind of setup, please let me know. Thank you very much...

I'm trying to figure out the wiring in the coach battery compartment of a 86 Sunrader. When I bought it, it didn't have a coach battery installed. I just bought a deep cycle RV battery, There's 5 wires with ring connectors, 3 white and 2 black in the coach battery compartment. So far, I've determined that one white is ground, because it bolts to the chassis on the other side of the propane tank. 2 black are positive. 1 black wire is reading 7 vdc when I touch ground with the other lead of my meter. So, I know that connects to the positive terminal of the coach battery.(Obviously, at the manufacturer, they didn't care which color wires they used for positive and negative.) The other black wires goes up to the isolator on the firewall under the hood. It's a two connection isolator, a red wire coming off the other side of the isolator has been cut and went to nothing. I connected it to keyed power, so I know that has to go to the positive post on the coach battery. As for the other two white wires, one has +12vdc when 110 AC is plugged into the converter when I measure it on my vom, with the other terminal of the meter touching ground. So I know that white wire goes to the positive side of the coach battery. I tried to follow the other and last white wire, and I've lost it up on top of the gas tank in the harness. There's another two connection plug coming out of the harness up near the top of the gas tank that's plugged in to nothing. I've recently installed a new gas tank and new fuel pump inside of the gas tank. When I had the gas tank down and doing that work, I know the fuel pump is wired up correctly, and that plug didn't go to that fuel pump at all. I'm thinking maybe the back water pump near the water tanks to pump water to the shower and the sinks etc. Is where that wire is supposed to plug into coming out of the harness, but neither of the two wires coming out of the harness with that plug on it are white. I can't find any other plug anywhere down there where that plug might plug into. So I've lost the white wire coming out of the coach battery compartment into the harness up near the gas tank. It doesn't have any continuity to ground, so I'm guessing it has to go to the positive terminal of the coach battery. I just want to be 100% sure when I hook the coach battery up to all of the 5 wires. So if my assumptions are correct, there would be five wires in total, four going to the positive terminal, and one going to the ground terminal of the coach battery. So my question is, does anybody know where that other white wire going into the harness by the gas tank goes to? And where is the water tank water pump? How is it wired? And where that mystery plug up near the top of the gas tank coming out of the harness goes to? And am I correct, two black wires two white wires going to positive terminal on Coach battery? And one ground white wire to the negative terminal on the coach battery? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am an electrician, as far as carpentry goes...making holes in things is bout it. First delving into the task it was a bit overwhelming, but after carefully peeling back the layers you can see how the frame is cantilever? sort of attached over the cab. The marker lights, one of them, was the main source of the leak. After making repairs to the cabover it prompted me to pull and replace/reseal all other exterior lighting and check other seams. Which with that I discovered the back wall was seperating from the floor and one side frame. Pulling off the corner and bottom outside trims let me re-pull the wall tight to the frame with screws and PL marine adhesive. I am of the opinion winnebago put these warriors together pretty straight forward, youve just got to peel the top layer off and look at things.

Indeed thats looking awesome. Is there anymore work that was done?

That amount of repair is above what most owners would be capable of doing. Before removing the roof take it to a boat repair yard or somewhere where they do fiberglass repairs. Ask the best way to go about it. You might find it’s cheaper just to source a replacement top somewhere else. There are many chinook owners out there that could also give you support. Google chinook parts and see what pops up(no pun intended 🙂). My fear is once you remove the top, you might not get it to fit back on correctly. Good luck, Fred.

Very cracked. Unfortunately, I think you need to remove the roof. Turned over the roof will lay flatter and also take the weight off the cracks. Only way I can see you ever getting it lined up nicely. Then fiberglass from the inside. Use some strong tape to stabilize it for moving. Try this site. A couple of the guys have removed their roofs for repair in the past. Maybe someone will give you some pointers toyotachinook@groups.io | Home Linda S

Just bought a 1978 Chinook and wanting to try to repair/ fix it up myself as much as possible. I am very new to this, so any advice and knowledge is very much appreciated. The fiberglass roofing is cracked, what’s the best approach to fixing something like this?

It's rare to find one that needs no work. Yours appears to be better than many. I see too many people gut one only to give up. There are of course those who stick with it and do a great job. I decided I would simply repair and keep on rolling also.

Just watched your video. I'm so sorry but the good part is it looks like you have the skills to fix it. Use marine plywood, denser and stronger, and protect it with oil based polyurethane on both sides before installation. Seal part facing road with Flex Seal to block all water. Best to do that after everything is in place to fill edges where boards meet. If you can find some wood solid enough to attach them some c channel run from side to side will give the floor more support. Good luck Linda S

I think that strange gasket was for a Winnebago. I think the Dolphins are more conventional. Metal frame that attaches with an inside trim ring and seals to body with butyl tape, glass sealed to metal frame on the outside with a rubber keeper. If the leak is frame to coach body you just remove it and reseal with butyl tape. If the leak is glass to frame you need to remove it and take it to a automotive glass place and have them reseal it then reinstall yourself. If you can find a glass place to do it, it can be done at home but certainly more difficult. I can give you some hints if you go that route Linda S

Linda had mentioned a particular model that is sealed with a rubber gasket that is not easily found. She suggested that type be left alone. I do not recall the model. If the front window is leaking you'd have to pull it and figure it out anyway.

Thanks everyone, I got the door rebuilt, and a a new water pump installed. Alas when I installed the water pump I noticed lots of rot under the couch. I removed the water tank and couch and I have began the process of pulling out the rotted floor. Not to scared since it was so rotten there may as well not even ben a floor. prob more safe knowing there is nothing there rather than a sponge wood you could break thru. My thoughts are, that I have to clear out as much as I can to find the full foam board thats rotted then just replace it with a regular piece of treated plywood. I will put some kills or something on the bottom to protect it from the road. Does anyone know what the black stuff on the bottom of these boards are that are road side? What's best to use as a protection layers for these replacements? Looks like some kind of black spray on of sorts thats peeling back and cracking on the bad spots. Scott IV, what did you mean "IF" your window can be removed and replaced ? I thought all these windows were kind of par for the course and just pushed into a wooden frame attached to the outside skin. I did not realize my camera was zoomed in so sorry for the crap vid but this is the "progress" so far. Sorry it just does not feel like progress when your ripping stuff out

Yours was made by a different division of the companies owned by Stewart Gardner. Flat windows Monterey Leisure in Elkhart Indiana. Wrap around windows made by Sunrader in Vallejo Ca. There are also differences in interior detail. Linda S

The guy in the you tube video within this post suggests being able to run his mini split system 24/7 with a 1000w inverter.

I apologize if this is off topic, but I just picked up an 85 Sunrader on an 84 chassis, and the windows are not wrap-around. They are two individual flat windows. What is the difference between mine, and the bubble ones? Thanks all!

200 pound block of ice and a DC fan. A 2200 watt Honda would run a small RV AC but not much more.

It looks like the 12v RV AC is returning to unicorn status. When the ad first came out they were saying battery powered, 8 HR run time and 4000btu. The tests I've seen say 2.5hr on the built in battery . To go 8 HR+ you need one of the "solar generators",3600wh, that's as big as the AC unit. Basic math says that's not enough for an 8hr run At 12v 3600 wh is about 180 AH. A 200AH Lipo is $1000 and weighs 60 lbs. Solar how's about 80sq ft of solar panels, for a Toy House that's a roof full. The old saying "anything is possible with enough money" comes to mind

Frame is in pretty tough shape the guy that owned it got stuck with it as his only Daily driver and New England winter for a few years in the salt did a number on it but yes 1000% I love this thing I’ve been traveling all around town with it and I will definitely get it repaired and keep it for a long time I think

Why does he need his frame repaired too? Yes I saw the pooch . He seems to like your camper as much as I do Linda S