Jump to content


Toyota Advanced Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About IdahoDoug

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1982 21' Sunrader, 4sp Manual, 32k miles
  • Location
    Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Hiking, family, backpacking, auto restoration, vintage Toyotas

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

IdahoDoug's Achievements

Community Regular

Community Regular (8/14)

  • One Month Later
  • Week One Done
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • First Post Rare

Recent Badges

  1. So, got the LAST piece of the Owens Corning XPS up today. By Sunday I hope to try glueing up the first piece of celling paneling. Need to figure out how to mark it for the puck lights, and get the wiring in place for that beforehand. I can already tell the benefit of the insulation as I've kept the interior as warm as possible with a 1500W electric heater for 3 weeks as I've been glueing and epoxying. For the first time, it's shutting down periodically at the medium setting now. it used to run 24/7. The roof is the highest heat loss and the best place to put good insulation, and it shows.
  2. Nevermind - I thought there was an adjuster TOOL being discussed. This if for an actual part in the rear drums. Thank you - got it now.
  3. I couldn't find anything on a couple searches, fyi. If you know the part or have a link, would be super handy!
  4. I'd like to have a bubble level up at the driver's seat, as that's when I want the information - as I'm moving back and forth to find a level spot. We camp 90% of the time on rough ground, or unimproved camp grounds that don't have level pavement parking spots. My plan is once it's built I will find level on the cooktop/counter top as nothing's more annoying than having a large frypan with oil all sitting pooled at one edge. Then I'll move to the driver's seat and mount a simple solid bracket with a bubble level attached where I can look straight down at it, adjust things until it also shows level. That will be my "level" from then on. From my research, the fridge has some allowed tolerance to perfectly level and when I install it, I'll shim it to the counter/cooktop's version of level so they also match. Don't want crooked ice cubes, dont'cha know!!? Heh.
  5. Thanks for the caution that mine may be different. Once I have the ceiling insulated, just a few days from now, I'll be pulling a wall panel off for the first time and confirming measurements. I can't believe how strong that foam lamination is. Pretty cool and the lightness factor is off the scale. Wiring will be a snap - just punch a hole where you need it. Looking forward to seeing what you're going to end up designing. I'm using Loctite PL Max which cures at temps as low as 19 degrees IIRC. I need that as I'm in N. Idaho working outside and I'm also looking for incredible strength to make the entire roof stronger yet. As to voids, I'm laying it down thick (nearly an entire tube per 8" wide piece!) to account for undulations. However the roof skin is quite uniform, having been pushed into the shape of the gently curved beams - which eliminated a lot of wobbling in the skin as I found it. So, confident I'm getting broad coverage up there. For the bottom of the insulation, I bought a serrated trowel and I'm planning to spread the Loctite on 100% of the 1/8" mahogany 4x8 sheets I'm glueing up. So, I should have some serious additional roof strength. Essentially compared to your foam laminate, I have a FAR stronger top laminate (3/16 glas mat), and the 1/8 mahogany panel is high quality and perhaps compare to your fiberglass in resisting flex. So, I'm hoping when I step on the roof between the beams, I'll hardly notice any deflection. Post up some pictures, Bob! Ciao!
  6. Importantly, the polyisocanurate panels turn out to be a very poor choice against cold. As temps drop, that stuff oddly loses its R factor where the XPS does not. Seems almost criminal they do not disclose that - like they made the stuff to perform well at the govt standard's test temp (74 deg?) but saved money on the rest of the temp spectrum - the cold end where you MOST need it!
  7. Today I got the first few insulation boards up on the ceiling. The fit is what I'd hoped in terms of the beams and insulation being the same level. Should make for a good process glueing up the interior wood paneling. Unfortunately my plan to use 3M HD 90 spray on contact adhesive did not work out. Even though it says OK for some foams it's not OK for this. Reverted to using the Loctite which unfortunately makes it a days long process of gluing, propping up and curing, then moving on. Versus a couple hours of slapping foam chunks up there - argh.
  8. Agree that looks like a standard wheelbase. The height makes it visually shorter though. Interesting the coach entrance is on the curb side for Japan, but it would suck to have that facing traffic when parked at a USA curb, plus campgrounds are set up with amenities like green space and picnic tables on the opposite side when you back in. So with this rig, your awning and door would face your neighbor and the sewer and other hookups.
  9. Well thanks for alerting me. I'd done some crude measurements of the space back there simply by poking a ruler through pipe openings. But you may have saved me an expensive mistake if it's 1/2" as both the panel and the outside wall certainly can bow and exaggerate that measurement. I will pull one of my window frames and confirm, and thanks to you I have the feeling I won't have 10 sheets of 3/4 Foamular I cannot use!
  10. Are you saying you only have 1/2 inches of room between the inner window flanges and the outer wall, in which to install the paneling and the insulation?
  11. Well, seeing as we have all already made our peace with the fact that you're cutting up a Sunrader and making into a trailer, I think it's FAR more fun and cool that you're also going to take the gloves off with the project and try for a foam construction technique. Bravo! And hey, if you get your keister in gear, I will begin building out my interior from scratch in about 30 days, so I'll learn lessons about potentially following you - at least for part of my interior. This would be a good time for me to tell you I am tantilizingly close to finding a source of 3/4 Foamular and would be happy to enlarge my order, or give you the folks to speak with. I've been going round and round with Owens Corning HQ folks and have written a letter to the President of Insulation at Owens Corning if the folks can't make it happen. It's going in the mail tomorrow as I want to hedge my bets. And time is of the essence. I'll leave you with this one interesting tip with foam. I have messed about in boats all my life. With the balsa cored sailboats it was always an issue that railings and other fittings work loose because the screws pulled through the wimpy core. So fix was developed that may serve you. Remove the pulled out screw. Drill a hole a half inch in diameter (or size appropriate) in its place but obviously stop before you punch out the other side of the deck, etc. Pour resin in this hole and let it harden. Now drill a fresh hole there and it will hold a screw very well. It also prevents "crushing" where a balsa cored part has fasteners on each side - the hard resin takes the clamping force just fine. And somewhere here on the forum, I just learned that some resins (epoxy?) will work fine with the foamular, whereas others will dissolve it. I am currently installing foamular in my newly braced roof and purchased a hot knife from Harbor Freight ($30) that is working great. No piles of dust, etc. However it's not a nice square edge for bonding like you'll need. Bread knife? Electric meat knife? After much research on glues, I grudgingly gave up on 3M's wonderful HD contact aerosol solution (90) as it dissolved the foam. I am using Loctite's 3X MAXX glue and it's working great and can handle cold application temps and later will not let go in a hot AZ vehicle interior like many glues do. Most people do not realize that even powerful glues are not meant for a car interior which can hit 170 F. This Loctite can handle 210 which will melt an interior, so a good choice at $8 a tube at Home Depot all day long
  12. AHA! Yes, I totally WOULD believe what you are going to do with it as I considered this route as well. I'll just say you chose the right foam for the job, and I look forward to you shedding more "light" on what you're doing. Pun intended.
  13. Bummer. Did it damage the coach? Pictures?
  14. I like the foamular. I am using the exact same 1" version you are. Would like to find it in 3/4" size but have not been able to.
  15. So the Sunrader's tires arrived today! Thats a few months before I need them, as I am doing an axle swap as part of this. However, I could refinish the 6 lug duallys and have these mounted.
  • Create New...