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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by WME

  1. Glad to hear things were just scary instead of catastrophic. The normal leaky AC thing on old Toyota's is the roof is bowed in. A 1/16" of of bow is as bad as 1". The water just pools and fines a hole. Any thing you can do to raise the center will help. Looking at your setup, can you raise the ends of the cross beans any?? Raising the ends and a bolting through the roof in the center might be enough.
  2. The Toyota factory answer to the problem https://www.lceperformance.com/2-Stage-Thermostat-OEM-22R-22RE-190-Degree-p/1032081.htm
  3. I don't have a mental list of converters, but some of the older ones have a transfer relay that shifts between 12 v from the converter to 12v from the batteries. A wack with a screw driver handle will often "reset" things. The correct way is using 2000 grit wet and dry sand paper to polish the contacts.
  4. Looks better than new. Now you know what's under the glitz
  5. If it ain't broke, don't "fix" it. Having said that, I'll add don't break it. 90% of headgasket failures are due to misuse, overheat, bad detonation, lean fuel mix, incorrect valve adjustment. All are preventable. Replace hoses and belts before they break. Use quality fuel with a good additive package. Maybe a dose of Techron every so often. Doing the valve clearance is easy every couple of years or so. Retorquing headbolts (with OEM gasket) after this long Is questionable, because you could break a stuck bolt and then you would need to do a new headgasket and helicoil the block after you drill out the broken bolt.
  6. After all the work you have done you still believe your VIN plate numbers??? Go weigh it, front, rear and for your own info side to side. Side to side is useful if you don't have all the stuff bolted down you can shift things for balance. Truck stops, landfills, farm supply stores are good places to look for scales. Agree with your thought a brand name C range is a better choice than a no name D range. P.S. the original 185/14LT D range tire was rated at 1875 lbs
  7. All those who have changed the head gasket in your driveway over the weekend, signal thumbs up👍 Gary what video did you watch? Before you junkyard it try a dose of sealer... BlueDevil Head Gasket sealer has better than most results. This is a notch above snake oil, but it's worth a try instead of junking a good Toy.
  8. 1. Make sure the engine is at TDC and the brite link aligned with the sprocket mark. 2. Don't for get the hidden bolt in the timing chain area. 3. 2 people 4. leave the intake and exhaust on. When I did my head swap I left the front cover and timing chain on. I used a Bungee cord to hold the chain up, lifted up the front of the head and pushed a welding rod through the chain links so I could remove the bungee cord and head. I used a 1/2" drive breaker bar wedged on the frame and bumped the starter to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. P.S. Timing chain, tensioner, guides???
  9. My household stuff is 40v. I've got 3 batteries, pole saw, chain saw, string trimmer, leaf blower, hedge trimmer. I bought some tools without batteries, much cheaper. I figure I'm only going to use 1 or 2 tools at the same job. 40v is great for home owner level stuff, not sure I would like it at the pro level
  10. It looks like the retainers are aluminium and the cover has plastic knobs that are trapped in the u channels. Original install was squeeze the sides and pop the knobs into the u channel. Instead of trying to flex the OLD plastic now. Try using a 1" wide chisel to pry the aluminium up enough to wiggle the cover out. Clean every thing up and slide the cover back in and use a rubber mallet to bend the clip back. IF the plastic cover is still flexible use some washers as spacers and hammer the clip back into shape, then flex the cover and pop it into place. P.S. f the brackets are steel...fergetabotit
  11. Yikes that's a huge (tall) tire!! OK I hope you can follow this, it makes perfect sense to me.😁 4th gear in your transmission is 1:1, the engine makes one revolution for each revolution of the drive shaft in 4th gear. The standard Toy House rear axle ratio is 4.1:1, the tire makes one revolution and the drive shaft (engine) goes around 4.1 times. Deep Breath. The standard MH 14" tire makes 816 revolutions per mile. So your engine is turning 3345 revs per mile. It's perfectly happy to do that. With the 15" tire you have your engine is turns 2861 revs per mile. Which could make for better MPG, but sucks rocks in a drag race. Actually your rpm is almost the same as you having a 5 sp transmission. But you don't have enough HP to drag a house through the air at 2800 rpm so you have to press the throttle harder and burn more gas. To restore your engine revs per mile to original (3345) you would need to change the rear axle ratio to 4.88. Your noise level would go up a bit, your MPG would be close to the same and your performance, like hill climbing, would be much better. Your engine made 97hp when new and 127 lb ft of torque. Torque = acceleration and HP = speed. At 2800 rpm your engine is making less than 60hp and at 3350 it's making almost 80hp. Now that your totally confused, I rest my case.
  12. A spray can of carb cleaner. When the engine is warm and reluctant to idle. Spray all the gaskets in the intake system, the idle will change when the engine sucks in a shot of cleaner. Then if you can't find anything spray all the hoses hooked to the intake manifold.
  13. Have you given any thought to a spray on pickup bed liner?
  14. OK my Last Rock auto order was pre-Covid. In support of a 64 Chevelle. Guess things have gone down hill a bit. OOPS on the loaded calipers, their only semi-loaded
  15. Do you have all the jigs set up and the filon rollers setup, so you can open Comvee RV Camper Manufacturing?😁
  16. Rockauto.. FRC10260.. 3 day delay, $55.59 (includes $16 core charge) FRC10259..In stock, $50.69 (includes $16 core charge) These are loaded calipers, have pads installed. I have used Rock auto a lot with 0 problems. BUT this day and age the 3 day delay is a bit worrisome
  17. A new battery wired wrong can cause this
  18. Looks like you have done about the best you can. Peanut gallery thoughts, can you drive the old mount bar out of the shock?? Know anyone with a mig/tig welder, just extend the bar.
  19. Full on John Deere farmer mode. Longer bolts and 2ea 1/2"x2" pipe nipples cut in half. PS I'm 5'8"
  20. Reflextix is good stuff, it's a bit of insulation and a heat reflector, with a lot of the heat coming in through the roof it's a good plan. Also while you at the reflextix thing, remove the front seats and carpet. A single layer of reflextix everywhere, a double layer over the transmission and under the driver's seat (cat converter and exhaust, lots of heat) then reinstall the carpet and seats. This is a personal thing, I raised the driver seat 1" or so. Makes getting in a bit harder but helps eliminate the driving a pillbox effect
  21. OOPS brain fade I got my old Rvs muddled up. Some had only a 15 amp plug and some had a 30 amp plug. Simple 50 to 30 amp adapter...https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Plug-Adapters/Mighty-Cord/A10-5030FBK.html If you have a 15 amp plug then you will need the 50 amp Y to 2x 15 amp plug... https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=50+amp+male+to+15+amp+female+adapter&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=50+amp+to+30+amp+adapter&_osacat=0
  22. Are the bolts loose or is the bracket loose in the shock?? Loose bolts?? can you post a picture of a bolt. Loose bracket in the shock, bad shock
  23. .https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-toyota-chinook/
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