hamkid Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 It costs $5.84. It fits. Even though the new one seems lighter, I guess I’m worried about the material being different and not being able to stake it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 I don't see any heavier grade markings on either of them So I guess it doesn't matter. If you want a tougher nut you could try the hardware store and probably pay less than a dollar but you have to decide if it's worth your time. For all the work you've done time is the most valuable thing there is Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 (edited) Yup time is the most valuable thing and working on an old rusted truck takes a lot of it. It's one good thing about this pandemic and having been laid off, I wouldn't be able to have worked on the truck this much. I'm gonna go with the part I have and hope that it will stake properly. At this point I'm not really worried about paying a few extra dollars for parts, I just want to know I have the right ones. I'm still waiting on the seal, after I work on the diff it's onto the leaf springs and suspension for the rear. I actually already have the driver side leaf springs removed I'm just waiting to put the pics on because I want the post to be in order. I will need some recommendations from the group about which suspension parts to buy. Edited May 8, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 The CS010R springs are the only way your going to get the leaves the original ones had. On top of that they are relatively cheap. I don't think you need the CS020R at all. Then your going to need some Prothane bushings for those springs. Amazon.com: Prothane 18-1002 Red Rear Spring Eye and Shackle Bushing Kit: Automotive For shocks Bilsteins are supposed to be the best but I'm not impressed. I should have bought the KYB's. Just as good and hundreds of dollars less. My son assumed that my KYB shocks were so old they must be bad. NOT and over 20 years old. I had already bought the Bilsteins so put them on. Probably put a thousand miles on them before they stopped being damned uncomfortable. Now I can live with them but still hate wasting the money. Shock warehouse has the correct part numbers for the motorhomes but shop around. They are not always the cheapest although prices now look pretty good #1 Shocks and Struts Superstore - Shockwarehouse.com Linda S Never ever buy Monroe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 Been gone a bit. The bearing looks burned, replace. Slinger looks reusable, but if its cheap replace. The locking effect on the pinion nut comes from being staked in to the key way, You should reuse it, because as you start to get some heavy torque on the nut the stake mark will lineup with the key-way. Using the new nut you haven't a clue about the torque and what the crush sleeve is doing. Reusing the old nut you at least have a WAG about things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) Only problem with that is...I messed up the threads on the old one. Edited May 9, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) Well, major WAG. Take the old nut and see where the threads start and the relationship to the stake point. Go there with the new nut and see how things line up with 100 Lb ft of torque. The crush sleeve "crushes" and sets the preload on pinion bearings. The "crush" amount has major effects on the pinion depth and thus the gear teeth wear pattern and noise. Good luck Edited May 9, 2021 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) I really hope I don't mess this up and have to take it all apart, I'm starting to regret working on the pinion. So too tight and gears grind, what happens when it's too loose? I'm still waiting for the bearing, do I grease it with the same stuff that I used on the front wheel hubs? Oh and what does WAG stand for? Edited May 9, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 The nut appears to be correct the "ring" at the top of the nut needs to be "staked" in against the pinion grove once it's at proper torque. Don't go crazy with an impact tool the crush collier takes a good bit of torque to crush it beyond the recommended torque so torque it to specs then take a small punch and drive the nut top collier into the grove in the pinion. There are two methods pinion bearing load a normal torque wrench or a spring scale in your case neither will do much good because pinion bearing load can not be tested properly with the ring gear in place but not to worry there is no real reason for it to change. With out the axles in place and the wheels on the ground and the brakes on you'll never get the nut to the proper torque with out the tool to hold the pinion from turning (it's nothing more than a long bar with holes to bolt to the pinion flange). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 I would like to add one more thing do not get carried away with greasing the bearing a little bit is OK they are flooded bearings meant to be lubed with gear oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 I know the tool you’re referring to. Get the tool first and then install and torque everything? Or do I have to wait until it’s off of the jack stands? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 11, 2021 Author Share Posted May 11, 2021 Old and new bearing. Those three rings were attached to the old bearing when I removed it. Do they need to go back in with the new one? Also, should I install the new race or is it too much work without the pumpkin off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lansisco Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 On 5/8/2021 at 6:41 PM, linda s said: The CS010R springs are the only way your going to get the leaves the original ones had. On top of that they are relatively cheap. I don't think you need the CS020R at all. Then your going to need some Prothane bushings for those springs. Amazon.com: Prothane 18-1002 Red Rear Spring Eye and Shackle Bushing Kit: Automotive For shocks Bilsteins are supposed to be the best but I'm not impressed. I should have bought the KYB's. Just as good and hundreds of dollars less. My son assumed that my KYB shocks were so old they must be bad. NOT and over 20 years old. I had already bought the Bilsteins so put them on. Probably put a thousand miles on them before they stopped being damned uncomfortable. Now I can live with them but still hate wasting the money. Shock warehouse has the correct part numbers for the motorhomes but shop around. They are not always the cheapest although prices now look pretty good #1 Shocks and Struts Superstore - Shockwarehouse.com Linda S Never ever buy Monroe Thanks Linda! I just ordered everything you mentioned and am really excited to install it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lansisco Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 On 5/8/2021 at 6:41 PM, linda s said: The CS010R springs are the only way your going to get the leaves the original ones had. On top of that they are relatively cheap. I don't think you need the CS020R at all. Then your going to need some Prothane bushings for those springs. Amazon.com: Prothane 18-1002 Red Rear Spring Eye and Shackle Bushing Kit: Automotive For shocks Bilsteins are supposed to be the best but I'm not impressed. I should have bought the KYB's. Just as good and hundreds of dollars less. My son assumed that my KYB shocks were so old they must be bad. NOT and over 20 years old. I had already bought the Bilsteins so put them on. Probably put a thousand miles on them before they stopped being damned uncomfortable. Now I can live with them but still hate wasting the money. Shock warehouse has the correct part numbers for the motorhomes but shop around. They are not always the cheapest although prices now look pretty good #1 Shocks and Struts Superstore - Shockwarehouse.com Linda S Never ever buy Monroe Linda, what do people do about the shackles? Re use? Replace with stock Toyota? Go aftermarket? The only things I'm seeing aftermarket are lifted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Unless shackles are severely rusted or have been damaged in some way I see no reason to replace them. If you do need them I would shop Rock Auto. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 (edited) ^2x what she said. Shackles are not a hi tech. Wire brush them and some rattle can paint and your good. Check for twisted shackles ones that have elongated holes, the bolts should fit finger snug. Edited May 17, 2021 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Adjustable spring shackles are available from many sources and very reasonably priced. Adjustable's allow you to custom tailor your ride height. If you’re replacing springs and bushings might as well do the shackles at the same time. I custom built these in picture but commercial ones are very similar. I’m sure your factory ones will work just fine. Just wanted to throw this idea out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 17, 2021 Author Share Posted May 17, 2021 Can u tell me about those 3 rings that came out with the old bearing and if I should install the new race? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Do you have precision measuring equipment?? If you do measure the width of the inner race. If the old and new bearings are the same use the spacer rings. If they are different thickness try to use the spacers to make the width the same. If your precision measuring device is a yard stick😁then just install the spacers in the same place they were on the old bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 19, 2021 Author Share Posted May 19, 2021 Should I tighten the nut now or wait until it’s off jack stands? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 Do you have the "tool" to hold the flange? If you can hold the flange against 100 lb ft of torque, then go for it. If you cant then you need the wheels on the ground, with chocks to lock the flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 The pinion seal is leaking, so I did something wrong. I had to put everything back together without installing new leaf springs. I’m towing it to a mechanic, he is gonna finish it for me. Thanks for all the help and knowledge!!! I will post pics once it’s all done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted October 7, 2021 Author Share Posted October 7, 2021 (edited) So 4 months later and 2 different mechanics the leaf springs are still not installed. Both places I took them to did not want to install them. I drove it back from Fresno to the Bay and now I will install them myself. Any tips before I get to it? Which side is front and rear? Edited October 7, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extech Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 the end with 2 hangers is the back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 So the side I circled is the rear and I install all the larger sized bushings in the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extech Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 the small bushings appear to be sway bar end link bushings. there should be 4 more of the larger ones for the springs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) No they are not, I already replaced the sway bar bushings and these are different. I need to double check the old bushings to see. Edited October 10, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 Each spring has 3 sets of bushings. Front, rear and upper shackle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 31, 2021 Author Share Posted December 31, 2021 Got it jacked up again. The axle is leaking. The nut I marked keeps clicking and will not tighten. Pretty sure that’s the leak. I tried a different nut and it’s the same thing. What should I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Dolphino Posted December 31, 2021 Share Posted December 31, 2021 Well to me you got possibly two options. If that bolt is a stud I’d pull it out and replace the stud. If it’s not a stud you could try re-tapping the threads to see if you can get a better bite with the nut. Maybe someone else will chime in with better ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Dolphino Posted December 31, 2021 Share Posted December 31, 2021 BTW how did your leaf springs turn out? I’ve been wanting to change mine as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 31, 2021 Author Share Posted December 31, 2021 (edited) Springs not installed. Trying to figure out how to install the bushings. Do the larger ones go in front or in the shackles? Edited December 31, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Dolphino Posted December 31, 2021 Share Posted December 31, 2021 I’d say in the front. You should also have some for the other side of the shackle as well. those bushings won’t just drop in. You are going to have to press them in with something. That polyurethane is tough and doesn’t give like old fashioned rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 2, 2022 Author Share Posted January 2, 2022 Do I have to remove the inner ring to fit in the bushing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewanderlustking Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 (edited) The smaller poly bushings are for the springs. You leave the brass looking bushing in. The larger poly bushings are for the other side of the shackle. (Can’t say 100% without all the parts in front of me, but that’s what makes sense.) Edited January 2, 2022 by thewanderlustking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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