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About thewanderlustking

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1986 Mini Cruiser

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  1. Let me add something else to this. Be realistic and get GOOD information. We can be keyboard mechanics all day long, BUT none of us are there with you looking at it. So if you aren't sure of exactly what is going on, get a real live technician hands on diagnostic with your truck. From what you are describing, I would check fuel pressure, check timing, and do a block test. Fuel pressure and block test are pretty easy and you could do them yourself even in an Autozone parking lot. The timing, yeah with the right timing light and knowing the goofy procedure. I doubt I would even bother to carry a timing light in my toolkit though... I have 25yrs plus wrenching, but if this were my truck I wouldn't be driving it any further until I knew what exactly was wrong. And I also wouldn't hesitate to ask a coworker, or another professional, what was wrong. Sometimes it is just another set of eyes that aren't yours, looking it over. And away from home, it is scary. I was at a training conference and had taken my old 1977 Rabbit. I knew it inside and out as I had built it from a bare shell. About 30 miles from my destination I started hearing a bad knocking noise. Pulled over, lifted up wheels one at a time with a jack, nothing. Go drive some more and the noise had gone away. But stats back up after 5-10 more miles. This process is repeated a couple times. I am not sure what it is. Car gets hot, knocks. Sounds like a wheel is about to fall off. I look up the nearest Firestone (I worked for Brifgestome Americas at the time) and called them and limped it there. It was an axle. Simple and quick. But had that axle gone on the road, I would have ben stranded without the right tools to do it.
  2. Taking weight out will help, not hurt. If it’s having issues with LESS weight, something has been hurt. I have loaded up my car enough that I had to loose a sewing machine (an proper antique Singer with treadle table) and a couple boxes of cds. Then the car felt fine. Do a fuel pressure and volume test and see what your actual numbers are. If you don’t have the tools, buy them. A $50 basic fuel pressure kit from the parts store should be enough. Some will loan it out too. Or even pay a shop the $99 diagnostic fee to do it. Detonation left unsolved will unecessarily destroy a perfectly fine engine. It can take a head gasket out at best. Or it can burn holes through pistons. I get it you are not near home base, but figure out what is going on so you can have an idea how to most safely get it home. Not sure what your interior layout is. But my fuel pump is right underneath my dinette table. I spent a couple hours measuring and remeasuring, then drilled a six inch hole through my floor right over top of the gas tank sender/fuel pump assembly. I was able to do my fuel pump without dropping the tank. I used a marine deck access cover afterwards, $15. The hole saw was stupid expensive though… Leys say it is detonation. Well pushing it with any weight (even empty it’s still a heavy beast) through the mountains could pop a head gasket. Detonation and blown head gasket could quickly become a much more serious stuck on side of the road issue. If it could have been prevented with a fuel pump replacement and possibly retiming the engine….
  3. LC Engineering has a well known history of being the go to shop for Toyota crawlers and performance. Very very well known in the Toyota 4x4 community. Google should spit out plenty of hits on them.
  4. This thread is going sideways…. There is ZERO reason to even talk about motor swapping, if cannante doesn’t even have a blown jug. Vehicles with blown motors usually don’t start up and run nicely otherwise. The first thing to do is to verify what kind of “knock” the engine even has. cannante, if the noise is subtle, as by your comments it probably is, let’s start by trying to figure out what it actually is before jumping to conclusions and spending 5-15k on a motor swap you might not even need! The simplest path is to have a reputable shop look at it and diagnose it. But, if it is rod knock then driving the vehicle does more damage. If the noise is subtle and not crazy loud, then there is a fair likelihood the motor can be salvaged. I have replaced rod bearings on several engines with them still in the vehicle. Rod knock: If the knocking occurs at a stop with the truck in neutral or park while lightly reving the engine, it is rod knock. This will usually happen the loudest at the peak where you let off and the engine for a moment is unloaded. This is gentle reving mind you. Detonation knock: This is usually a much quieter noise than rod knock but in the right circumstances can sound identical. This won’t occur with the truck stationary in neutral and gently reving it up/down. This occurs while driving it under load. If it rattles a little when slightly tipping the throttle in while cruising on the highway, mild detonation. If it sounds like marbles in a coffee can during a specific rpm band while accelerating only, severe knock. This is a quick and abridged version and maybe not a 100% perfect description, but it will get you much closer. Let’s start with figuring out what this noise is first and if it can be fixed before we worry about swapping the engine….
  5. You are not even on the same page. It is VERY EASY to find rebuilt Toyota 22R and 22RE engines manufactured by professional rebuilding companies. Not some wanker sitting in their home garage claiming that a tune up is a rebuilt engine. Those people aren’t intelligent enough to arrange shipment for an engine and a core online. You can go on eBay and find a handful of options and every single one has a detailed description of what was done. No none of these professionals are going to give you receipts for the parts. Be real. cannante, low fuel pressure from a bad fuel pump could potentially cause engine knock/ping/detonation. This is vastly different from rod knock caused by bad engine bearings. But it can actually sound about the same. Or close enough for the untrained ear. This is especially true when it isn’t super loud. The rebuilt engines by reputable rebuilders are Toyota motors that have been given new life. They should be as reliable as the original ones, as long as decent quality parts were used. Your engine could also be rebuilt again. Just because it was rebuilt before doesn’t mean it can’t be agin. But it would be simpler to use it for a core and get a reman engine. This is assuming yours is even damaged….
  6. First off I wouldn’t bother with an “engine or oil flush” as I haven’t seen a single shop in 25 years that still has one of the actual machines to do it. There might still be one out there somewhere, but they went away for a reason. A simple cleaner, like BG sells, and an oil change are more than enough. And even this is probably too much. A little oil on the air filter really isn’t even an issue UNLESS it is getting sucked into the engine airstream and causing pinking or detonation. Engines are designed to handle some, hence the design of the PCV system. A new pcv valve also doesn’t mean it is good. Test it. Verify. It’s a cheaply made and very basic part. You can do a head gasket test super easily yourself. Autozone has a block test kit. It’s $30 or a free rental. They might charge you for a bottle of test fluid. Very easy to do. Watch a few videos. Since a head gasket has recently been done, this would be a good idea to do just to verify. But before you chase potentially imaginary issues, is the engine even running poorly??? If not, leave it alone! At most, do your block test for some extra piece of mind. If you want to be paranoid, setup an inspection interval. Maybe every 1000 miles check or even change the air filter. Take a picture of the filter and your odometer. This would be a simple way to see if it gets worse.
  7. Thank you Maineah! Heh, you remember those god-awful bright neons split looms from the late 80's early 90's? Lol I probably have permanent mental scarring from that stuff... A whole lot of modern cars make use of the normal black stuff these days. I will use it in the engine bay whenever it matches the OE stuff. Progress in the 'squirting department has been slow... As of tonight though, I "SHOULD" be finished with the other projects that were getting in the way. -=knock on wood=- Wheels are back on, it is ready to air up the tires, take it off the stands and ramps, and go for another shakedown drive. Instead of patching the exhaust, I went with a new one with long tube headers. That will be the next project to undertake, but I want to get a baseline with the old one first. I don't have a whole lot left to do before initial power up testing. Unfortunately, what I have left is mostly heavy brain work. I need to hunt down some maps for the 22RE, and then probably go through and completely rebuild them. Also I am not really sure what changes I need to make for a big heavy RV. Or if that changes my approach to tuning, and how.
  8. In the first response to you, Linda suggested testing the gears. Go ahead and do that and let us know if that is hitting all of your gears correctly when you force shift it like that. Let’s just verify that the transmission is working correctly first. If messing with that cable made it down shift better, then either you need to soak some PB Blaster into that cable and Keep working it, or possibly replace the cable. The cable causing the problem is called the kickdown cable. It is $50 at Advanced Auto Parts. But seriously, if you don’t have PB Blaster Get some and put it in your emergency first aid kit. Not only are your cables probably 30+ years old, but so are all the little levers and joints on your throttle body. Try working all of those loose with PB Blaster, and work on your kick down cable. You are probably going to want to do this by disconnecting it at the throttlebody, so that somebody in the truck can work the accelerator pedal while you gently pull/hold on the cable. if you have a shot manual for your truck, look in it and figure out what the adjustment procedure is for your kick cable. I have found in past experiences with automatic transmission kick down cables that frequently tightening them up a little more then what the factory suggestion is, will make them kick down and shift a little bit quicker if you do. This will make the truck feel like a whole different beast but do this a little bit at a time and wait until after you have gotten the cable freed up. This really sounds like a cable problem. It really sounds like you can salvage it too, but $50 for a new one might be worth it if you verify for sure working it back and forth makes an improvement.
  9. I didn’t see this mentioned, but there is one possible gotcha on these old Toyotas. Make sure when you are testing the battery and alternator right after you’ve started the vehicle, that you rev it up a little bit to make the battery light and brake light go out. I would assume that you know this, because you’ve been out on the road with it, but just in case… I didn’t know this and I potentially replaced a perfectly good alternator when I first got mine.
  10. The high one is probably worth every penny he is asking. WOW!
  11. FINALLY!!! I am wrapping up all the "sitting on ramps/jackstands" projects that I have been slowly picking any at. The 4.88 rear is in, axles are in, and differential case is filled up ready to go. I need to take off the outer right rear wheel and clock it one hand. I was staring at the geometry on my equalizers, and it should work better flipped on that side to match the rotation direction of the other side. I think the centrifugal force was causing one side to loosen up. So if I am right either both sides will stay tight now, or both will loosen up. LOL! Good times! I ran late and didn't want to annoy my neighbors by running my impact after 10pm or I would have sorted that out tonight. So it is still sitting on the jack stands. There is a break in procedure for the rear end too. I may let it run for 20 miles unloaded on the stands, and then go drive it for another 20. I went into details about the brake issues and rear end rebuild in my thread here The Shakedown Drive, I think I actually conned Murphy!!! Or did he pull one over on me??? and some further brake musings in my thread The brake saga continues… While I was underneath the truck tonight finishing the trans temp sensor install (see the Installing a Temp sensor on an A43D, hot/pressure line? thread) I did notice a curiosity that could contribute to or even completely cause the odd brake issues I have been hunting down. The levers for the emergency brake end in a short balance bar with the cables attached to either side of this. It is a little stiff and doesn't seem to "balance" out or turn equally in both directions. It could cause more pressure to be applied on one side than the other. I will see if this can be freed up some more tomorrow with PB Blaster and then silicone spray or something. From the rear it didn't look like this could cause a problem, but when I got right up underneath it and was tugging on things... Whatever the case, I should have it back on the ground in the next night or so. I "think" I have headers and a new exhaust on the way. I ordered them anyways. But eBay's tracking system claims the order was canceled by the seller and is returning to them... It is supposed to arrive wherever it is going Tuesday, so we shall see if it shows up. Hopefully it was a legit sale and not one of the scam jobs. The seller account is well established and in good standing though, no red flags there. I thought I was going to have to weld in new oxygen sensor bungs to the exhaust for my wideband. The Toyota OEM oxygen sensors have a weird mounting flange and don't screw in like modern sensors do. And the exhaust has a forward location and a second back location. I went looking for a block off plate, and then looked up the sensor itself. And was pleasantly surprised with the replacement oxegen sensors solving the flange issue with an adapter plate, instead of a Toyota only specific sensor. I might still decide to weld in a bung as the location for the front sensor is not even halfway down the cylinder 2 tube. Not ideal. I can run dual sensors with MegaSquirt. But I have never gone down that rabbit hole further to see if I can do an upstream and downstream comparison algorithm and utilize a narrowband for the downstream sensor. I will have to look into this one!
  12. Oh and Walmart saying they can't do our tires is defiantly a corporate level policy issue. It is too much of a liability risk for them. They don't seem to attract the old experienced technicians either. One of the green general service techs I taught and worked with for a couple years went there at like 23 and within 6 months was the shop foreman/manager. Don't get me wrong, he was super smart and capable of doing so! But he had never seen a Humvee CTIS system or put tires on a Toyota "foolie" wheel... Or seen a widow maker wheel come apart. Or a semi tire explode and disintegrate a tire cage. Or heck for that matter even knew what a tire cage actually was! My old shop has a folding tire cage sitting in the back room. Our manager didn't even know what it was for. Nobody felt the need to enlighten him either hahah!!!
  13. You are completely missing my point.... Please read what I am saying carefully. I am not disagreeing with you and trying to be negative. I am trying to give some insider insight, and actually going further to say that ANY shop that does tires, can do ours. PERIOD. Any that say otherwise, are looking for excuses NOT too. I spoke up as I saw malarky catchphrases like "We need a special pin adapter plate to balance these "special" wheels." This isn't true and it actually means: "We don't want to deal with your headache." There is NOTHING special about our dually wheels, other than some having the odd sized valve stems. Lifting them is another story. Most of out little Toyota RVs are a PAIN to lift. The low sides and VERY rear heavy means they do not balance properly on many "modern" lifts. The lifts that can balance them easily are usually the older in ground ones, that many states no longer allow to be installed new without special provisions that GREATLY increase the cost of doing so. Translating to shops replace them with above ground lifts. Lets use your example of an F-250... Better yet lets say somebody comes in with an E-250 or a high top Sprinter work van loaded up with tools and for extra measure a big water tank (like the carpet cleaning vans). Any experienced tech will look in the back and see what is back there. But if they see that tank is full or you are overloaded with tools they are going to, a) tell you they can't lift it, b) tell you it needs to be unloaded, or c) lift it on a jack. But c) will only happen if you have a motivated shop or technician. In general, automotive shops out here don't WANT to take on the liability of working on an RV. Especially so on a 6-7 tire job on a dually RV when the customer sourced the tires themselves online and it is just labor. Corporate shops ESPECIALLY so because many won't be able to adjust the labor time accordingly, and are stuck with whatever they normally charge for doing 4+2 tires. Amazon tire sales with installation included, are the WORST offender on this too. As I said above, there is ALMOST ALWAYS a way around the problem. If a shop can't lift it, it can be done in the parking lot with a jack. When you go to a shop and they say "We can't do this because we can't lift it." or "We can't balance the rears." it really means... "Your RV is a pain in the butt to do, we don't want the liability because our young general service techs are stupid -=cough=- I mean inexperienced, and you bought your tires online so we can't even make any money dealing with this headache." So if any of you get any static about installing tires on our rigs, understand that what it really means the shop doesn't WANT to do the tires. I personally do not want to take my Mini Cruiser to a shop that doesn't want to do it since, it simply won't be done well. In summary: Mounting and balancing our tires is EASY. Lifting our trucks on a lift, is a headache at best, and not anywhere near as easy as a Ford F-250. If a shop is willing/motivated enough, they will resolve this by doing it on jacks in a "flat bay" or out in the parking lot. Although some corporate shops genuinely will not allow parking lot jobs. Pep Boys recently adopted this policy claiming it was due to "liability" issues. But who knows, it could also have been local management making up crap too to get out of doing it... So yeah I am not saying it can't be done, the opposite. I am saying any excuse saying so, is JUST AN EXCUSE! If anyone gets this BS static, you now have an idea as to why. And some ideas to potentially get around these objections.
  14. Yes, any shop that works on trucks, like box trucks, can lift it. Most automotive tire shops can't and won't lift box trucks. Most people go to automotive tire shops with their RV's, and are surprised when places, like Walmart, turn them away. Les Schaub is a West Coast shop (Midwest too I think) and yes they do tend to be setup to work on smaller to mid sized trucks. I have worked at three shops on the west coat, only one would have been able to lift it up easily. And they could even lift Semi tractors. Thats a whole other story though... I have worked at something like a dozen shops on the East Coast, and maybe two of them could "easily" lift a smaller RV like my Mini Cruiser. A smaller 18' Sunrader, no problem. But my whole point her isn't if a shop can or can't lift these up, it is that most automotive tire shops simply DO NOT WANT TO. Our rigs are a liability to them. Most automotive shops have 10,000lb rated lifts and maybe one heavier lift. This is frequently a 4 post where they do their alignments. Yes our rigs, especially unloaded, easily fall well under that 10k mark. But loaded or unloaded, they are not well balanced on a normal 10k automotive lift. And nope you DO NOT need one of these. Every modern balancer comes with a set of cones. Even the most basic balancers come with a selection of cones with one that will fit our wheels. You use a dually ring spacer and then cone it from the outside. It is actually kinda rare to see adjustable pin plates these days, because they aren't NEEDED on any wheel that has a hub centric center. Yes, correctly setup a pin plate does balance slightly better than a cone will, but any experienced tire tech can easily get 100% with a cone setup. And most tire techs these days have ZERO experience using a pin plate anyways. In 25yrs, I have maybe used them half a dozen times. Again, what this really translates to is 'We don't WANT to work on your RV." And that is the point of my comments to give an insider viewpoint as to why a lot of us have had issues getting out rigs serviced at your local automotive shop. It isn't to say they can't, but that they don't want to and how to get around some of those objections. If you live out West, simply go to Less Schaub! The industry had drastically changed the past few years too, especially since the pandemic. Shops are MUCH MORE likely to tell you they can't do something, than they used to be. Any older experienced techs tend to be overwhelmed and overworked. And can't keep the younger inexperienced techs that you really don't want working on these anyways. Again, I am not trying to be contrary or negative here. I am just offering my experience from having worked in automotive shops for 25 years. I am saying that "We can't do it" usually means "We don't WANT to do it" and offering a couple ways to get around those objections. And most of us on here go through a good bit of trouble to save $20-30 on a tire, or even less and go buy them online. I know I sure did myself! It is a lot to buy 7 tires!!! If you buy your tires online, any tire shop you go into is suddenly making a LOT less money on that sale and is also a LOT LESS willing to go through the extra trouble and liability of dealing with lifting up an RV, even if they can do so kinda easily. Especially so if it is difficult or needs to be done on the ground. They will find some BS excuse why they can't do it. Like "You need a special pin plate for this rare bolt pattern..." I struggled and lifted mine up in my driveway, took my tires/wheels in and did them myself. Because it wasn't worth the headache to try and lift it on any of the lifts at the shop. And because I simply wanted it done right without any static. Oh one more observation. East coast (automotive) shops, in my own experience, seem to have much lower ceilings inside than most West cost shops. Especially the older shops. There are plenty where lifting a high top Sprinter to normal waist working height is not safe or possible. And sure there are work arounds, like doing the vehicle with a jack in the parking lot. Or lifting it just enough to get it off the ground. I could go on into more details and scenarios, but it comes down to understanding that most of the objections are due to "Don't want to" as opposed to "Can't" for whatever XXX reason stated. There are a lot of reasons why full on "truck shops" charge way more than "automotive shops" do.
  15. Alright, harness is made up for the sensor! Its kinda hard to make out the orientation on this, but the transmission is on the left and the front is the bottom of the picture. I tried to peel pff the old tape so I could slide the wire underneath, but in the end the rubber just disintegrated. I almost had it too. I don't have it hooked up inside the cab yet, as it will be going to my Perfect Tuning Gauge for the MegaSquirt. I am not sure it matters as I think I can send it directly to the gauge if I want. But I am uncertain if I do this if it will also be logged in my datalogs. If I send it to the MS first, I know it will be logged. Tackling this part now while it is still up on ramps. I can sort that out later. I have a couple more things to do tonight, and then I will fire it up and leak test.
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