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fred heath

Toyota Advanced Member
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About fred heath

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1979 Champion mfg. "Galavan". 95K origional miles. Purchased from second owner with all paperwork from day one.
  • Location
    Raleigh, NC

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  1. Frank’s Garage in Hampton, NH. Does frame repairs, extensions and frame fabrication. All work is done in house. This is the only shop I will trust with my motorhome. There may be a wait as he’s usually very busy. His landline (603) 926-4900. Worth the trip !!!
  2. Chances are the new universal fuel gage sender will not work accurately with your factory gage. The output voltage has to match your factory gage exactly. You may have to buy a remote mounted fuel gage that matches the voltage output of your new sender. You will still need to calibrate the float arm to the new gage. Best done with the tank off.
  3. Current strike is fine. You only need to buy a kwikset style lock if you want to keep your existing backset (which you should do). Otherwise any deadbolt will work. Schlage and kwikset are the two primary manufacturers. Others are all knockoffs of those two.
  4. Screws are “case hardened “. Most deadbolt cylinders come with a spacer for narrow doors. The spacer is missing from her old lock. New one should have it.
  5. That lock is a standard (house) deadbolt lock. The brand is a cheap knockoff of a kwikset lock sold by Home Depot. Buy a replacement lock, remove the two screws on the rear that hold the old lock to the door. Separate the halves (leave the backset in place) install new lock reverse of removal. You now have a replacement lock with 2 new keys for about $10. You don’t need a true kwikset. Cheapest brand that uses kwikset key will work.
  6. Much more affordable 4x4 camper. 😮
  7. Use a small (6-8”) set of vise grips for a substitute handle until you can find one.
  8. Rear axle is a biggy. If only 5 lug nuts on rear drum the axle is unsafe and will need to be upgraded. Even for the sake of argument let’s say you have the 6 lug ff rear axle, your asking price is crazy. With good axle it’s worth maybe $6-8K. $10K if in outstanding condition. I think you’ll be sitting on this for awhile unless you get more realistic on pricing. And Cliff, your contact requirements strike me as sort of spammy.
  9. Something like this will work if you need to bypass that 1/2” opening. Although the pipe is nominal 1/2” you will have better fit with the 3/8” unit. Or buy both 3/8&1/2” and use whichever one seals the best. Sometimes the 1/2” can be too large for the pipe. https://www.google.com/search?q=3/8"+rubber+winter+plug.&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari#oshopproduct=gid:18273379352810279106,mid:576462666202635308,oid:3568992437866993113,iid:511174473516903291,rds:UENfMTgyNzMzNzkzNTI4MTAyNzkxMDZ8UFJPRF9QQ18xODI3MzM3OTM1MjgxMDI3OTEwNg%3D%3D,pvt:hg&oshop=apv
  10. Sorry, I thought you knew how to tell the good axle from bad. 5 lug nuts on the rear drum is bad. 6 lug nuts with protruding hub is good.
  11. Weight capacity is determined by the rear axle. Most Toyota motorhomes have the 3/4 ton (GO82) rear axle. Some may have the 1/2 ton (F292) axle. Check your metal ID plate under the hood. It will tell you which rear axle you have. You’ve basically got a clean slate to work with. Good luck, and welcome. Fred
  12. Linda, You have spoiled everybody here. Lazy folks just wait for your answer. You can’t go anywhere yet. We all need you. 👍
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