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Toyota Advanced Member
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About Maineah

  • Birthday 01/17/1946

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  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking. cross country skiing, ham radio/electronics

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    "87" New hHorizon Nova Star
  • Location
    Brownfield, Maine

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  1. Ok because it has 6 lugs it does not mean it's a full floating axle. The full floaters had the axle protruding from the center of the wheel with several small bolts holding it in place the big difference is the axle on a full floatier has nothing to do with the holding the vehicle up. My Tacoma has a 6 bolt wheel but not a floating axle.
  2. Lucas, AKA the Prince of darkness.
  3. With the fake dualies the outside wheel actually makes the problem worse because it places greater leverage on the drive axle and when they break it's not a pretty sight. With the real duel wheels the drive axle does not support the the vehicle weight.
  4. Ok you kind of lost me the max air thing draws 4K watts? That at 12 volts is over 300 amps from the batteries. It is factor of 10 from 120 house voltage to 12 volts DC (more or less). With some thing like an Air conditioner you also need to think about inrush current (start current) also it can be massive. I'm all in for solar I have a 100 watt panel home built frame that I can elevate and turn it folds flat in transit and two batteries. The 100 watts will charge the batteries but my current demand is low. The light bulbs in a MH or camper draw a great deal of power my camper had 13 glass bulbs with them all on it drew 23 amps from the batteries! They now are all led's with a current draw of 3.3 amps. In your case it would be cheaper and more efficient to buy a nice little inverter generator if you need to take your house with you.
  5. They are amazingly tough transmissions. The biggest issues were the tail stock bushings waring out and trashing the governor bore. If you are clueless about automatics step away from the transmission it's not a real good back yard job for a novice.
  6. There are hundreds of thousands of decks out there with the same screws 10 years on including my 21 year old deck and they improve every few years. Look for the green screws with a Torx drive head. One of my old campers is still in use with the PT wood rebuilt door I rebuilt in 1998 as is my Nova Star from 8 years ago and my present camper has a 5 year old PT rebuilt door constructed with PT and deck screws. Camper door are cheaply built soft wood with zero water proofing with butt joints my rebuilt's are all mitered joints that makes them much less flexible. PT is low grade wood you need to find the least knotty they will have to be ripped to size any way so they is going to be waste some of the boards maybe be as much as 50% but done right will out last the RV.
  7. Standard starter wire gauge is a #4 wire why down grad to a #8? Those starters were pretty good the early gear reduction starters did have issues with the internal starter relay burning the contacts inside the starter very common. This of course increased the current demand leading to poor cranking or just a click. Here is what they looked like, ebay.com/p/664903917?iid=183335442973 much cheaper than an external relay. It does require removing the starter and some basic knowledge. Because the problem is at the starter it's self a jump pack charger etc. will increase the current flow to it and in some cases would be enough over come the poor contact issue but eventually they would burn to the point of no start even with two batteries. I can't begin to tell you how many of those kits I installed years ago. Toyota eventually addressed this and produced upgraded starters.
  8. I kind of remember two ground points from the negative cable one went directly to the body work the other to the engine block. There was a joint close to the battery. As far as the starter just bolting it up should be fine two bolts and wide opening should be more then enough. Remember these things are OLD things happen. I also kind of remember a short ground cable from the frame across to the engine mount and that caused some interesting things.
  9. All though the starters are designed to operate down to 10 volts weak batteries voltage will nose dive quickly under load. The other side of this is the forgotten negative side of the equation the starter needs a good ground and that does not mean just at the battery it is a high current demand that may have little effect on small current loads lights etc.
  10. Yeah it was a feeble attempt to deal with emissions. The RE's didn't seem to be prone to that problem when they went to fuel injection.
  11. If it doesn't start it is one thing if it doesn't crank it is another. The older gear reduction starters had issues with a copper disk inside of the starter it would just click and do nothing. That is repairable fairly simply.
  12. The AC seal serves two purposes one to keep water out of the camper the other is noise reduction sitting directly on the roof it sounds like a freight train. The seals start life at an inch or more in thickness and are good for maybe 5 years max before they flatten. There is a piece that comes with the gasket that looks like some thing you would throw away it is rectangular the same thickness as the gasket it fit under the long side of the AC unit.
  13. The "E" is German for Enispritzung or fuel injection (of any type from diesel to electronic) why the Japanese picked that I have no ideal!
  14. Behind the seal is the oil pump be sure to replace the sealing ring on the pump it is subjected to full oil pressure adds about 15 minutes to the job and makes it easier to replace the crank seal.
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