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Everything posted by lansisco

  1. I've tried ordering from swayaway.com and they appear to be the best source for our rigs. My order has been on backorder since June 1 of this year. I know of no other options for us including stock replacements. I will let you know if I get mine sent to me. 5 months and waiting patiently.
  2. That's really interesting. As I think about my situation, I've completely done away with the stock charging system and am bypassing it entirely. The dash light doesn't come on so that isn't a concern, and I've removed everything related to the old system to keep it simple. My connections are direct to battery and don't involve anything from the stock system. I will likely be adding some gauges to the interior for voltage and oil pressure and maybe a tach.
  3. I bought a GM One Wire Alternator Bracket from Summitracing.com for about $81 (TGI-120120-1-KIT) a Powermaster 100amp Alternator (PWM-7294)for $124, and a battery isolator kit off of amazon.com for $115, (KeyLine Chargers 12V 140 Amp Dual Battery Isolator Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) Pro Dual Battery Kit). This allowed me to remove ALL of the Toyota charging mechanisms and just start from scratch. I was in the process of replacing the alternator, water pump, all of the hoses, belts, and I adjusted the valves at the same time, so getting to the alternator was easy since I'd removed the radiator to get to the water pump etc.. I was really nervous about messing with the stock alternator bracket because it was integrated into the motor mounts. This turned out to be really easy. I placed a jack with a block of wood on it below the oil pan and lifted the engine slightly, enough to take some weight off of the mounts. I undid the 4 bolts that hold the stock bracket in place and wiggled the stock bracket loose. I then wiggled the new bracket into place and was surprised that it only took some light taps with a wrench to line it up with the holes. The stock bolts are used in 3 out of the 4 holes, and there is a bolt that is included with the kit for the 4th as it needs to be shorter since the new bracket is thinner at that point. Surprisingly again, the bolts went in easily. The stock bolts looked brand new and I'm thinking to myself wow, they were installed 38 years ago. Once the lower bracket was in place, I put the GM alternator in and it lined up easily. My only issue was that I needed a belt that was 1 inch longer than the stock one. Easy fix and I was going to do the belts anyway. I completed the alternator install in under an hour, and finished up the rest of the work over the course of the weekend. The battery isolator kit had about 20 feet of 7 gauge copper wire and was more than enough to run a wire from my alternator direct to the engine battery +, a wire from the engine battery + to the isolator, and a wire from the isolator to the coach battery +, with about 3 feet left over. There is a one foot, 4 gauge ground wire that I ran from the coach battery to the place the old voltage regulator was mounted under the hood. That spot was a nice thick bolt and made a great ground location. I used that ground for the wire from the battery isolator as well as the coach electrical system ground wire. Once I fired up the engine, I had 14.5v at both battery terminals. The headlights are very bright and the system is sound. I made it a point to use Toyota hoses, gaskets, and a water pump from 22reperformance.com. I replaced all of them and they were not cheap. But I value my vacation days highly and I avoid problems associated with maintenance whenever I can. Would I do this again? YES! Do I care that I lost function of the voltage warning light on the dashboard? No, not in the slightest. I may install a voltage gauge at some point, but I am not worried about that alternator or the related parts. I recommend the powermaster alternators because they are new, not rebuilt and American made from scratch. As a side note, adjusting the valves was far easier than I was imagining and I found 3 valves that were way too tight. In adjusting them I have increased acceleration noticeably. I had an old solid state battery isolator that I removed and replaced with the new kit.
  4. I agree with Linda, it sounds like your battery connections aren't the best. The alternator would have nothing to do with whether or not it starts, assuming the battery is charged. The alternator only keeps it charged. How about you put some pics of your engine compartment up for the forum to see. Maybe someone will see something weird. The 22re engine doesn't take a lot of energy to crank, so I'd focus on basic stuff like clean terminals and good grounds.
  5. The engine has 100,500 miles on it as of today. Are we getting to the point where I should just pull the motor and do a head gasket job as well as all new lower seals? I don't burn any oil over thousands of miles. It blows my mind actually. I am tempted to do a clutch job at the same time as this anyway. I also would like input on replacing my carb with a weber. My exhaust is toast so I planned on a header kit because they are the most cost effective way to replace the exhaust manifold.... Again, how far do I go at once?
  6. Funny how things work... I loosened the upper alternator bracket and there was plenty of room to take out the alternator. It appears that the wire had made contact with the positive post while the engine was running, and arc welded itself to the post at least temporarily. In retrospect I think it had been there a long time, perhaps years. That would explain the weird voltage drops that caused our Maxx fans to beep when I would turn the headlights on or off. I just attributed it to an old battery isolator or some other electrical gremlin that wasn't serious. So that settles the alternator issue. Now on to the rest.... I spun the fan and heard a slight grinding sound and realized the fan blade had some wiggle to it. I thought that was odd, so I took the fan clutch off of the water pump and it turns out the water pump bearings were failing and had 2-3 mm of wiggle back and forth. I actually was thrilled to figure this out because I thought I heard something developing under the hood but I couldn't put my finger on the sound. It was like a belt squeal but much more of an echo than normal. It sounded like metal on metal a bit. Well, that was the source of the weird noise. Onward to replace the hoses, belts, water pump, thermostat, and coolant with high quality parts. Since I've gotten it torn down this far I may end up buying the alternator brackets from LCEngineering that would allow me to put a GM one wire alternator under the hood for an improvement on amperage. I'm familiar with this type of alternator and have used it in other modified vehicles. That is one that every NAPA in North America has in stock constantly, (although I've never had to replace one). I'm half tempted to pull the drivetrain and do the clutch at this time as well, but I am not sure how far down the rabbit hole I want to go during the warm months. Thanks for all your input everyone!
  7. Head to the desert once it cools off?
  8. I don't have power steering, nor an automatic trans. I'm happy to replace the coolant hoses in the mean time, and it seems like taking the lower one off is the best option. I'm not in a hurry as the new alternator arrives tomorrow. Thanks btw, Linda!
  9. I've disconnected my alternator, but I can't figure out how to get it out... Any pointers?
  10. I took a good look at things tonight and used a charging tester. No charge indicated, as expected. The coach battery was still fully charged, but the engine battery was down about 1/3 according to my tester. I can confirm that the stud for the positive wire was cracked right off at the inner nut. Seems really odd to me, but it happened. I'm planning on pulling it out amidst a hose and coolant replacement once I get all the parts in order. If the alternator can easily be repaired, I'll go that way and try it. If it doesn't work my intention is to go with a GM one wire alternator that is made possible by a kit from LCEngineering for a total cost of about 200 bucks. Strength with this is more amperage as well as much easier and less expensive part sourcing in a pinch. As a side note I tried touching the alternator wire to what is left of the positive stud while the charging tester was connected. I got nothing whatsoever. Is it possible something within the alternator was damaged by the wire disconnecting?
  11. I have an 84 Pickup 22R with a Carbureted engine and a 4 speed manual trans. I just got home from a 1,500 mile trip through Michigan's Upper Peninsula and was happy to be home safe when I was checking under the hood and noticed something very strange. I was checking the alternator belt tension when I noticed that the wire that goes to the positive post in the back of the alternator was not connected at all. It appears that the stud that the wire attaches to has broken off at the inner nut, and the wire head is just hanging there next to it. The voltage light has never come on, and the rig seems to run as normal. I had some unusual things happen with my motorhome while driving, but nothing that concerned me. For example, when I turn the headlights on, after about 5 seconds the ceiling fan beeps as it does when I initially start the engine and power begins flowing to it. When I turn the headlights off, 5 seconds later the same beep. I've noticed that while driving on bumpy roads the thing occasionally beeps as well and I assumed it was a bad circuit board or bad wiring on my part (I do a good job with wiring and I just can't imagine any of those connections weren't solid, and this beeping issue has gone on since day one of installing the new fan). About a month ago, I was driving down a VERY rough road for about a half hour and parked at a gas station for fuel. When I went to start the motor, nothing. I looked under the hood and noticed that the engine battery had worked its way loose and wasn't connected. I pushed the cable down on the post and all was well. This tells me that I certainly had a working alternator... But??? What if the wire head was touching the back of the alternator post occasionally and enough to keep the battery charged but yet not strong enough for full electrical capacity? What if the thing broke off just as I returned from a 1500 mile trip? (doubtful to me, as the roads were smooth for the last 350 miles, and why would it just break off?). Would the wire harness that clips on the back of the alternator allow for sufficient backfeed/current to keep things charged and going fine for 9 days on the road? I would plug into shore power for days at a time and I wondered if the house battery somehow kept the ignition system going. So weird, so what do you think?
  12. I'll weigh mine and give feedback. My shocks are the correct length and there is only a few inches to go down until bottoming out. The bump stops never touch the axle no matter how low things go because the shocks literally bottom out first. I'm not sure why the bump stops are even there. I am still unhappy with the amount of sway from wind! It is really unnerving and I'm an experienced driver. I am curious as to how much my front torsion bars have to do with the sway due to wind. I've ordered some new ones but it has been 1.5 months and still on backorder. They are from sway away.com
  13. I have an Escaper that is heavier and I'm not happy with the 10's since I'm still sitting too low. I've ordered the extra spring and will be installing them soon. I'll update when I'm done. For bigger RV's I think the Old Man Emu 20's may be more appropriate. I certainly wish I'd had them initially instead of having to add another spring 2 weeks later.
  14. Linda, I have the same RM461 and my electrical heating element has failed. Do you know what part number I need? Gas works fine, electric slowly got weaker and then failed entirely recently. Thanks!
  15. Excellent advice! Did your Escaper have bags from the factory? Mine didn't appear to.
  16. I've decided to add air bags to my motorhome. After the new springs and shocks I've gotten a better ride. However, I'm still only 3 inches from bottoming out the shocks. The bump stops are more like 6 inches of travel from the axle so they are useless. Also, I now have even more sway than ever. It is pretty sketchy actually and in the wind it is more than I'm comfortable with. I ordered the https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G92P4S/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 air bag kit. I'm hoping this takes care of both a slight amount of height increase as well as better sway control. Any thoughts?
  17. I have 100% new springs, shocks, bushings, shackles and hardware as of 3 days ago. I'm not happy with the amount of sway in the rear. I know many Toyota motorhomes have them. I'd like one too.
  18. My 1984 Pickup doesn't have a rear sway bar and could really use one. Does anyone know where to source either a new kit or used? I'm in Michigan. Thanks!
  19. I do, but they aren't terribly dramatic. You just see more tire in the wheel well. I'll post them when I get some better "after" shots, I didn't have time to take many after getting the job done. We just had the blacktop sealed today so no cruising this weekend until the blacktop is good and dry.
  20. 1985 Escaper, 1984 Toyota Pickup, 22R, 4 speed manual, carbureted. 97,000 Miles My rear suspension job is finished! I ended up with some very positive results. I bought the following: CS010R Old Man Emu springs, $254 OMESB6 Old Man Emu Spring Bushings ,2 were needed $48 OMEGS3 Old Man Emu Greaseable Shackles & Pins Kit: $119 04482-35030 Leaf Spring Pins, Genuine Toyota parts from the dealer, 2 were needed: $61.22 Bilstein Shocks 24-002585 Pair of B6 4600, $178.54 Mobil 1 grease, $10 I didn't need new U bolts because mine were nearly new from the rear axle replacement by the previous owner. He had added a leaf to the spring pack so the length was fine so I saw no reason to replace shiny U bolts that have less than 5k miles on them. Total for parts $670.76, plus about $60 bucks shipping because I had to buy each part from a separate vender due to supply shortages. I spent another 40 bucks on blades for my reciprocating saw to cut one of the spring pins out. The job took me and a buddy about 6 hours total. If we did it again I bet it would take 4. Results as measured from the bottom of the fender to the ground: Rear Drivers Old: 23 1/2 (23.5) New: 25 1/8 (25.125) Difference: 1.625 Inches Rear Passenger Old: 24 1/4 (24.25) New: 25 3/8 (25.375) Difference: 1.125 Inches For about $800 bucks my ride has improved greatly! The reason I made the decision to replace the rear suspension was due to a shock mount breaking off of the frame. I realized I'd been riding on the bottomed out shocks! Very unsafe and it needed immediate attention. My springs came with a + and - sign on them, because they were either a bit high in arch, or a bit low. I find this truly amazing that they do this because I was able to take a 3/4 inch heigh differential down to a 1/4 inch differential between the drivers and passenger side, as measured by the rear tire. My stove used to shake violently when I went over any bump or roughness, now it is silent! Going over transitions in pavement is now smooth instead of rough. The whole experience has improved greatly. Thoughts: Patience paid off! I took my sweet time figuring out the combination of parts and my needs. I didn't jump into a decision. This is key when making big changes to a 38 year old vehicle. Buying quality paid off. I bought the best parts I could find because I know that in the long run it will be the cheapest way to maintain my Toyota. I have been wrenching a while and I've never been let down by quality parts. I will be replacing the front shocks and torsion bars soon. I have the shocks already but the torsion bars are on back order. In the meantime I will tinker with the torsion bar adjustment this weekend to see what is going on there. I have a suspicion that they are not properly adjusted at all. I hope this helps others! Thank you all for your posts, it has given me the ability to take on some pretty intense projects. A special thanks to Linda S for her knowledge! I'd be nowhere without her posts.
  21. I have a pair of sleeves that I don't need, they came with a bushing kit I'm using part of. Would you like me to ship them to you for free?
  22. I have the same OME springs sitting here about to be installed on my 1985 Escaper. My chassis is a 1984 Toyota Pickup. I ordered the OME Shackles and the bushing kit you have. The OME Shackle kit fits the bushings perfectly. I don't need a sleeve and according to the OME install sheet, the shackles are optional, but to me if I'm going to replace 38 year old suspension I might as well do it right. I have similar shackles on an old Jeep CJ7 I redid and 20 years later they still look new and are easily greased. I don't know about your particular situation, but I can tell you mine is easy peasy.
  23. I do as well. They have about 4k miles on them and look nearly new. The crazy part was how much stiffer they were than the car tires someone had put on before me. I looked them up and they went on things like pontiac grand am etc.
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