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fred heath

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by fred heath

  1. I know nothing about solar. WME will probably be able to answer that question. Personally, I prefer a dedicated battery for normal 12V coach operations.
  2. I suspect the house battery is dead. Remove and take to someplace like auto zone. They test batteries for free. While you’re at it, clean all electrical contacts and grounds in the battery compartment.
  3. Check that your cranking battery is fully charged. Next, If you look at the rear of the chassis you should find a ground lug with a heavy duty ground wire attached. Clean this surface really well. Same with it’s attachment point on the frame. It doesn’t take much(low battery/bad ground) to keep the genset from turning over. Also check both those 5 amp fuses I mentioned earlier. One is for the fuel pump, the other for interior electronics.
  4. My 1988 install has no such fuel shutoff feature. It does have a low oil pressure shut off. This might be what you’re thinking about.
  5. Onan microlite 2800. Depending on how old it is, I’m betting a bad fuel pump or a Gunked up carburetor. pull the fuel hose from the carburetor and place inside an old water bottle or similar catch item. Crank the generator and see if you’re getting fuel. If not, check the two glass fuses 5a behind twist caps on the face of the control panel. If they’re ok, and still no fuel it’s probably the pump or clogged filter. If you’re getting fuel, it’s most likely the carburetor. There are instructions online for cleaning. I ended up buying a new carburetor. They’re not cheap. About $250
  6. The Toyota 'Tacozilla' is the coolest off-road camper you'll see today https://www.foxnews.com/auto/toyota-tacozilla-coolest-camper
  7. I’ve been running 195/70R14’s on the front for over 10 years. 70 series allows for smaller diameter (closest to original 25.6”) of 185/R-14. Plenty of good tires out there in that size.
  8. The front of your Toyota is just a standard cab. Get whatever size tire is recommended. Get the highest load range you can find to cover any supplemental weight caused by the overhead. Front tires are not as crucial as the rears.
  9. Automotive 12 volt lighting is a very simple system to work on. Your home started life as a cab and chassis. The factory Toyota wiring has color coded wires for park, brake, r turn, l turn and backup. The motorhome manufactures tapped into this harness when adding the coach. Somewhere underneath the chassis close to the rear axle you should find the factory pigtail or harness end. From there it’s just a matter of substitution. If your factory brake wire for example is “red” and you find a blue coach wire attached to it, then you know “blue” wire should be for brake etc. A simple 12V test light can also be used for verification. Regarding LED directional, you may need to change your flasher relay for them to work correctly. I just left my old incandescent turn signal lights operational, but my system is much older than yours. Find the factory wiring diagram for your truck. Go from there.
  10. It sounds like a ground issue. Can’t comment directly about Nissan system but if you hear the relay engage and the system works most of the time I’d look at my grounds. Especially the one for the pump. Some ground to the tank itself. Some in the harness.
  11. Long read but covers everything. https://lifeonroute.com/why-your-rv-fridge-needs-to-be-level/
  12. Biggest potential drawback will be the rear axle. If you have 6 lugs and a protruding hub you’re good. If only 5 lug nuts the axle is unsafe and will need to be upgraded. That can run a few thousand dollars alone. Is the vehicle being given to you? or are you purchasing? If free, you could justify the axle upgrade.
  13. Any good finish carpenter or even a good handyman would probably be able to do the work. Think of your coach as a mobile home (trailer) on wheels. Wood framed wall with metal or plastic siding. Keeping everything square and plumb is very important. This is why you want someone with experience. I always take a zillion pictures during the rebuild process. Save any old paneling to use as a template for new replacement pieces.
  14. Lucas is a UK electric supply company. The provide electrical systems for cars like Jaguar, MG and Range Rover. Their electrical systems always seem to have QC issues. They do not have a stellar reputation.
  15. One trick to use when remodeling is save the old panel or piece your removing and use as a template for the replacement piece. If that’s not possible, make a template with builders paper and transfer to the new work. Instructions can be found on YouTube or many box stores sell a do it yourself kit for vinyl floors. Same principle, just vertical rather than horizontal (for walls).
  16. Weight over the rear axle will determine if you can run singles. Rule of thumb is 4K pounds or less over rear half of the motorhome. More than that you’ll have to stay with duels. switching to singles in the rear will reduce the track width of the rear axle. Only you can decide if you like the look.
  17. The cast iron exhaust manifolds on both the 20R and22R are known for cracking between the #2&3 exhaust ports. This is caused by the factory heat shields installed on these engines. You may have to remove the shield to see the damage.
  18. You can buy new welting. Don’t think caulking will look that good. https://pantherrvproducts.com/hollow-bead-trailer-welt-molding-cabinet-trim-gimp-25-ft-light-brown/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjvHy4rry8gIVm_6zCh2CGAxpEAQYAyABEgKTC_D_BwE
  19. Toyota Motorhomes are based on a 2WD commercial cab and chassis. The early generation trucks were bare bones. No radio unless ordered at the time of purchase. The factory wiring for radio and speakers should still be accessible under the dash. The cab area is so small you could just wire in a new setup and forget the factory wiring.
  20. You’re right. Must have been a senior moment. 🙂
  21. The “E” denotes electronic ignition. The engine is a 22R.
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