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fred heath

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by fred heath

  1. Just curious, did you pop the rear hubcap and check the axle? 6 lug nuts is good, 5 lug nuts very bad. Hope you have 6.
  2. Check the coach battery ground cable. Terminal should be clean & tight. Also where it bolts to the frame. It sounds like a ground issue to me.
  3. Don’t get discouraged!!!! It’s easy to get overwhelmed especially when getting advice from different sources. The guy in the video you posted is a professional mechanic. The Snap On box in the background is proof enough. I’m sure your timing chain is fine. 100K is low mileage for these engines. Try the fix in a can first. I stay away from them because the ones you add to the radiator can also plug up things like heater cores and thermostats. You tackled your valve adjustment so you’re good with basic mechanical skills. Only you can decide what’s best for you. It’s way to valuable to junk. Take your time. So maybe it takes the whole weekend or longer to change it out. I always look at it as money saved and skills learned. If you feel it’s going to be above your mechanical abilities, go a different route.
  4. My block had two raised pins to center the head. You can always use a couple of pieces of wooden dowel fed down from the top through the head bolt holes as you lower it down. The engine lift is perfect for this job. I bought the 1 1/2 ton lift from harbor freight. It fit perfectly under the front end of the cab. You might be able to find one used on CL or maybe a rental yard. It’s very important to clean out the head bolt holes in the block before reattaching the head. I used compressed air but something like a shop vac and a rag would work in a pinch. It’s important because any liquid left at the bottom will affect your torque readings. It can also split your block from hydraulic fracturing. Even if you use a new head, I’d still remove the old as a single unit. Much easier to play with frozen nuts and bolts on the workbench. 🙂 Only other thing I did was replace any attachment bolts for the manifolds with studs and nuts. Less chance of stripping the aluminum head from over torque.
  5. I changed the head gasket on my 20R in my driveway. The only difference between the 22R and 22RE is the RE is fuel injected. The FSM calls for leaving the intake and exhaust manifolds attached to the head. I agree…. makes the job much easier. You should have two engine hooks (front&rear) attached to the head. Makes removal very easy. You will need a portable engine lift, some heavy duty chain and a helper. 1. Remove the hood 2. Drain all fluids from the engine 3. Disconnect and label all cables, wires and hoses. 4. Unhook the exhaust pipe from the manifold. The rest is just to follow the manual regarding head bolts, cam sprocket etc. Raise the head straight up and out. Take your time. I did my head gasket in about 2 hours but my engine is pretty basic without a lot of extras.
  6. That’s some scary looking wiring. Personally, I’d gut all the 12v wires and start fresh. 120v should be easier to determine if it’s hooked up correctly. A good multimeter with continuity capabilities is a must. Also a good understanding of 12V automotive circuits.
  7. I am a cummins guy. Ill check it out. With my slow approach maybe I can find one. I’m running a Detroit 353 in my 1987 YJ.
  8. I always said if I hit the lotto I’d go with the Cummins 2.8 TD. Package is as ‘turnkey’ as it gets.
  9. OK. Here’s one with wheels. That rustic country look.
  10. Retro ride. No boondocking with that rig. 🙂
  11. I went to rock for radiator (cheap) for 1987 Toyota pickup. Selected an OSC945 as it appears to be a common number. All shipping to zip 27603. Rock auto with shipping $109.78, Amazon $99.99 free shipping and free returns, Summit $109.99 free shipping and believe it or not Walmart $99.99 with free shipping. What I didn’t research was return policy. Amazon is free. Not sure about the others. Amazon the winner on this order. Linda, you’re amazing and you know that. Most knowledgeable person on this forum. My observation is not intended to be an attack on your ability to find parts. I grab the PN from rock and let google do the rest.
  12. In prior posts about rock auto I mentioned what a great data base they had. I get the part # from rock, then google it. Amazon is usually first up.
  13. If you want to completely rebuild your toy from the ground up using only rock auto parts you might be in the running along with several thousand others to be featured on a magnet. Rock Auto’s prices a often good but many times shipping will negate any savings. At least with Amazon you get free returns if not satisfied. Rock Auto return is on your dime. I’m not promoting Amazon over rock auto but having used both for years I think across the board Amazon is cheaper.
  14. Try with a different multimeter. I didn’t have my fluke one day so used a Chinese substitute. Voltage readings were unusually high. Retested with the fluke and voltage was spot on. Chinese POS went into the trash.
  15. Mileage shouldn’t matter. You need to have a forensic examination done by a qualified shop that works with this type of axle. Save everything!!!!!
  16. Based on your narrative it sounds like the shop that did your brakes has some major liability here.
  17. https://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission These people are the authority on Toyota Transmissions. This would be your best bet to determine what you have and if it’ll fit.
  18. The answer to your question is yes!
  19. Thread pitch is 1.25 for Toyota, not 1.5. Bottom cut tap will give you a little more meat to grab onto. Whenever possible I substitute studs with nuts for bolts when going into aluminum. Stud allows for more torque with less chance of stripping aluminum threads. Toyota FSM recommends leaving intake and exhaust manifolds attached when removing cylinder head. Makes head gasket install pretty simple.
  20. Diameter is everything. The 27” is just a general ‘max’ diameter. It all depends on the clear opening of your wheel wells. Measure front to back in two different areas. Using the smallest measurement subtract 1” from that. This is the maximum tire diameter you can use without rubbing. The 225/60-16’s have a 26.7” diameter. It will be close if not too big.
  21. I have the 6727 series. The ID plate is under the top cover riveted to the chassis (rear drivers side). I have the paper manual in my storeroom somewhere. It’s 7200 BTU and is a sealed ammonia based system. Very durable unit. Why do you want to change it?
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