hamkid Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 Starting suspension and steering overhaul. Any tips or advice is appreciated. My first question is about loosening the rear wheels. Just to be clear I loosen only the driver side rear clockwise? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
linda s Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 Only if your rig was made between 8/85 and 8/86 and has the original axle. If it is yes only the drivers side. If not all others are normal wheels Linda S Clue. Do the rear wheels have 6 hand holds? Those would be the left hand nut era Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 12, 2020 Author Share Posted November 12, 2020 Yup 6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WME Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 FWIW, you have a broken stud that your going to have to replace. Prevent future problems replace all of them with right hand studs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 12, 2020 Author Share Posted November 12, 2020 (edited) I bought a 3 ton harbor freight floor jack today. Topped it off with oil and now it does not tighten. Is a 3 ton jack adequate? I’m going to return it and find a used one on Craig’s list. Edited November 12, 2020 by hamkid Quote Link to post Share on other sites
linda s Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 3 tons is plenty but why would you add oil. I didn't even know you could and I've had my Harbor Freight jack for years. Mine is a 2 ton by the way and it's been used lots. Absolutely change those studs. Not good to drive with a broken one and then you'd never have the let hand ones to worry about again. Someone turning it the wrong way is how it probably got broken Here are the right hand Toyota studs https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~bolt~hub~for~rear~axle~90942-02056.html Linda S Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 13, 2020 Author Share Posted November 13, 2020 (edited) The instructions said to top it off and it wouldn’t even jack up my Corolla at first. Edited November 13, 2020 by hamkid Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WME Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 Try bleeding it again. Remove the fill plug and turn the handle Turn handle counterclockwise, pump a couple of times, turn the handle clockwise and pump a few times. install the plug and try it again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tstockma Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 You probably got a bum jack - my old man gave me one a few years ago, new from Harbor Freight, it goes up then loses pressure & descends - if I'm quick enough I can put it at max height then slam the jack stand in place before it's come down far enough. ; ) Yep find a used, or a better brand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 13, 2020 Author Share Posted November 13, 2020 That’s exactly what it did right out of the box, jacked up the front end half way then falls down. I added fluid and now the handle just keeps spinning without getting tight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fred heath Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 Had it happen on several harbor freight jacks. Best solution I found was to jack it up to full height with no weight on it. Release the valve, then force the sleeve to retract (usually by standing on it). Try this a couple of times and it should hold. New jacks should not need any additional fluid. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WME Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 If the handle just spins, maybe the u joint is not tight. Remove the cover and see whats going on. If everything is turning then the jack has internal problem and needs to be replaced Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 13, 2020 Author Share Posted November 13, 2020 returned the jack from harbor freight. Found this on Craig’s list for $50. Let’s try this again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 13, 2020 Author Share Posted November 13, 2020 Can a vehicle get damaged from being on jack stands for extended periods? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WME Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 (edited) Put jackstands under the frame, NOT crossmembers, floor pans, or suspension. You will be OK Edited November 14, 2020 by WME Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 Is it ok to have all sides on jack stands or do I have to just work on one side at a time? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WME Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 All 4 corners OK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 any suggestions for which impact wrench to buy? I want one that I know will finish the job! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 Considering this set up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WME Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 How big is your air compressor?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 20 gallon I think Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WME Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 What HP, pressure and how many CFM? Most wrenches that size need 90 psi and 5-7 CFM. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Royal Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 Hamkid, Please don't take offense, but I believe that at your stage of mechanical learning you might be better off without an impact wrench. I have overhauled many engines and transmissions without one. I do have air, and always have, but I have seen a lot of damage done with impact wrenches. Admittedly, they make the job go faster, - that is not necessarily a good thing. We all like seeing someone get into fixing their own stuff, so keep at it. If you do end up buying an air compressor, I would recommend against the direct drive oil-less. Buy one that is belt driven. 2 belts are better than one. And if you find one that you think will do the job, buy the next size larger. There are a few variables wrt cfm and pressure. Shop carefully. I was called to someones house not long ago because his impact wrench wouldn't loosen his wheel lugs. His hose was only 1/4 inch and the air compressor was marginal to start with. Loaned him my hose and it zipped them right off. Not all impact wrenches are the same and it has been my experience that the inexpensive ones with unfamiliar brand names will not come close to the advertized torque. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 I wanted an impact wrench so I wouldn’t have to struggle with the rusty bolts. I didn’t want to be in a situation where I couldn’t remove a part. Now I’m questioning if I should even start this project. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Royal Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 I was afraid that you might respond as you did. Please do. Start the project. We all want to help. My sons would tell me to bow out that I'm 79 years old and I should be seen, not heard. They are both excellent amateur mechanics. (wrt rusty bolts, PB Blaster is pretty good stuff. And a good 6 point socket wrench or box wrench will almost always do the job.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ctgriffi Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 There will be lots of struggle ahead, unless your rig is pristine underneath. For those of us without a lift + many thousands in tools, suspension work on an old truck is not impossible... but a True Test. Impact wrench may be helpful, but I’d lean more towards good ratchets/sockets, breaker bar, torch, grinder with cutting discs, BFH, and plenty of PB Blaster. It can be done, if you’ve got the energy and time to put into it! (If you or a buddy is built like a gorilla, that would help too. 😬 ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 Thanks for the inspiration. I welcome all input and opinions. Please do not hesitate to post what you think, it’s impossible to offend me, but will always cause me to over think. What size breaker bar should I purchase? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gary_M Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 (edited) After soaking my pumpkin bolt with PB Blaster for several days and breaking my knuckles with a breaking bar I gave up. I went with a 1/2" 250 LB electric impact wrench and impact sockets from Harbor Freight. The bolt came out in milliseconds to my surprise. Cheaper than an air compressor and wrench for sure. Yes PB blaster and a give it a shot with the wrench but after that go with the impact wrench. Save your knuckles! Gary Edited November 15, 2020 by Gary_M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WME Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 PB Blaster yes, yes. Lug nuts may be a bit stubborn, but they have been on and off a few times so a little PB and a low setting on the air wrench and they will come off (don't forget the left handed nuts). With a wrench that big ALWAYS start on the lowest setting and give it a little time, before adjusting it to stun and then to kill The axle nuts are a different story lots of PB and a little torch heat over 3-4 days. They are small nuts and a big impact wrench can just twist the studs in half. Don't forget the cold chisel and BFH to get the lock cones out of the axle cap. The leaf springs bushing bolts are bigger but will be just as rusted, again PB and time. Maybe a bit more omph on the air wrench. Brake calipers are hand tools, so is everything under the hood. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Got it up. Gonna start on the front first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WME Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Go team go Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 24, 2020 Author Share Posted November 24, 2020 Bought this impact Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 24, 2020 Author Share Posted November 24, 2020 Initial state of front driver side Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hamkid Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 are these brakes stock? haha! I think its time for new brakes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WME Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 Decision time, new stuff or DIY rebuild. 1 set L&R new brake rotors and pads $180, new caliper $40 ea, also R&L, wheel bearings $7 per side (2bearings), hub seal $2 ea need L&R DIY redo Caliper rebuild kit $4 ea, Brake pads $40, Turn rotors $25 ea, a bucket of brake cleaner, new seals $2 ea Just a thought these are the brakes, do you trust your skill levels? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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