Royal

Julie and I just completed a 1650 mile quick trip from New Bern NC to Florida & back. Saw a lot of great big RV's, both A's and C's on the road and one Rialta. But not one Sunrader. Is there a listing of where all the Sunraders are in the states? Roy

Fred, I suppose that I should have said that the spare 6 lug wheel that I have was from a dually Sunrader so it should compensate for the 2" buildout of the adapter on the front. Yes???

WME, thanks for the suggestions. I am fortunate to have a spare 6 lug wheel and am going with your suggestion #2. I contacted C&C Wheel and talked to a nice lady (Susan) who tells me that the 5 to 6 lug aluminum adapter will be $198 plus shipping. (Unfortunately the fellow that makes them up is out sick right now.)

My brother, John, has suffered a catastrophic fire in his 4 cyl std transmission 83 Sunrader which resulted in a total loss to everything except the rear end and probably the rear 6 lug wheels. If anyone in the Catskills of New York area is interested, call or text him 845-807-1269. He is not interested in shipping it - you pick up. Please do not respond to me on this. Talk to John.

I had a blowout this summer and discovered that my "never been used spare" which I had just carried 2,000 miles wasn't worth installing. Check the date codes on that spare.

It's hard for me to believe that if you go to higher altitudes they (Linda's second link in her post) recommend that you need to change your "primary main jets to a larger diameter". This is exactly what you don't want to do. Smaller jets at high altitude is what I believe. (I have no direct experience with this since I have been an east coastal dweller my whole life. Am I all wet on this?)

It is very difficult to "shake big time" like WME suggests. I had a friend that followed WME's suggestion of nuts and bolts and gravel, then strapped his gas tank to a cement mixer and turned it on for several hours. The inside came out like new.

I was afraid that you might respond as you did. Please do. Start the project. We all want to help. My sons would tell me to bow out that I'm 79 years old and I should be seen, not heard. They are both excellent amateur mechanics. (wrt rusty bolts, PB Blaster is pretty good stuff. And a good 6 point socket wrench or box wrench will almost always do the job.)

Hamkid, Please don't take offense, but I believe that at your stage of mechanical learning you might be better off without an impact wrench. I have overhauled many engines and transmissions without one. I do have air, and always have, but I have seen a lot of damage done with impact wrenches. Admittedly, they make the job go faster, - that is not necessarily a good thing. We all like seeing someone get into fixing their own stuff, so keep at it. If you do end up buying an air compressor, I would recommend against the direct drive oil-less. Buy one that is belt driven. 2 belts are better than one. And if you find one that you think will do the job, buy the next size larger. There are a few variables wrt cfm and pressure. Shop carefully. I was called to someones house not long ago because his impact wrench wouldn't loosen his wheel lugs. His hose was only 1/4 inch and the air compressor was marginal to start with. Loaned him my hose and it zipped them right off. Not all impact wrenches are the same and it has been my experience that the inexpensive ones with unfamiliar brand names will not come close to the advertized torque.

On my 21ft Sunrader I get a 6" lift from no air to 90#. Measured at the back bumper.

It seems that quite a few of you guys use Mr Buddy or some other small heater rather than the furnace. Is there a reason why you don't just use the built in furnace?

I had a blowout on one of my rear tires this summer and had to buy an almost correct C rated new non-matching tire, mount it and install. (My antique old spare was on a 5 lug rim.) Then I, once home, bought six new D rated tires and am ok now. My Sunrader has the 6 lug rears and 5 lug fronts. So, now I have all new tires and an unmounted new non-matching "C" spare also. We have over 3,000 miles on our Sunrader since June. Today I turn 79. I plan to call Good Sam in the event of another flat. (I had had AAA until the flat. They were totally worthless when I asked to help on the road.) It seems that most of the ToyHome flats I hear of are on the rear so the question is: Should I mount the new C tire (that I bought on the road) on the 5 lug rim, or carry it unmounted??

I had the same experience as Linda. About a month ago, I checked Walmart stock online and it said none. I went to the store and they had 5 of them out in clear view. This is not the first time that I have been lied to by Walmart regarding their stock.

The overheat light sender is under the passenger floor. It is a conductive pickup which is flat against one of the trans cooling lines. I tested mine with a cigarette lighter. ...works (but I don't know what temp)

Sounds like we have a similar fetish. I am a nuclear engineer of "the more gauges the better" ilk. ...and my son is an airline pilot. We loves our gauges. But since attending gauges anonymous meetings, I have almost gone cold turkey. My 85 Sunrader with a 22re auto has a "transmission overheat" light. Is this unusual?? (I was joshing about cold turkey: I have installed a tachometer, cab voltage, and a coach voltage gauge. And an oil pressure gauge and alternator amp gauge are on my workbench ready for the rain to quit.)

I had to do a lot of electrical work on my Sunrader and have found only one good rule: "there is no color coding rule" on these rigs. Other than "red is probably hot" all the rest of the colors are questionable. Best advice is to learn how to use a VOM (volt-ohm meter).

Ah, but as we all know - pictures lie. His windows were so badly crazed as to render them cobwebby and foggy that I painted them flat black to disguise them. Thanks Linda for the 1/8 inch response. 1/8" is available stock. (We bought a piece and test-bent it.)

My brother John, from NY, recently visited us in NC with his '83 Sunrader (on the left) and we spent 2 weeks comparing his to my 85 Sunrader. Neither of us had any prior Sunrader experience and we each had things to admire about the other's rigs. John had those sexy wrap around windows in the coach over the cab and he (a very handy guy) is going to try to make some himself because the prior owner did just that but did a poor job. He is going to try to use Lexan from Home Depot vs plexiglass which is cheaper but crazes in sunlight. First step is to make a heated jig. But How thick are the windows from the factory?? Comments and or suggestions would be most appreciated.

This RV is about 500 yds from my house. I tried to look at it last year just before I bought my Sunrader, but at the time it wasn't for sale. If there is anything I can do to help, let me know. ---send me an email. (I don't know the owner.)

A slow in the hills Sunrader: Turtle

Legal and safety issues notwithstanding, yes you can run your refer on propane while traveling. I just completed a two week 1674 mile trip and never had a problem......turned off the propane on my RM2410 and switched to 115vac when hookups were available. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1333352/Dometic-Rm2410.html#manual

It's a 19'er. They have a following. A lot of our folks prefer them. ..and it's a standard transmission which is most desirable. But, as you will read on the forum, does it have a 5 or 6 lug rear axle? If 5, then pass. If 6, then you can continue to explore other things. I would need a lot more pictures before I went any further. There are a million more questions that one could ask but I don't know what your talents are:

You just left Sunrader rich country. I looked hard for 2 years for Sunraders and only found one within 5 hours of my home in New Bern, NC. Bought it. If you find one, you need to be ready to jump on it quickly. They are rare on the East Coast and others are looking also. I recommend that you get firmly in your mind what you want so that when one comes up that looks good, you instantly know (surprises notwithstanding) that you are going to buy it.

Are you sure that your A/C is getting 115vac? What is the actual current draw of the A/C? (This can most easily be determined with a clamp on ammeter. They are available at Harbor Freight for about $30.) If you are lucky, it could be that you have a bad breaker. Yes, they do sometimes over time go bad and trip earlier than they did when new. If the answers to the above have been ruled out then this may help you get a handle on the problem: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rvp/rvp6789mech.pdf

Derek, you and Linda are right so much of the time, that I know it is only because you pay a lot of attention and do a lot of research....so, I am posting a picture of my door card to remove any doubt of a typo. I'm going to put four 185's on the rear. (5 months ago, I put 2 brand new 195 Yokos on the front.)