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tstockma

Toyota Advanced Member
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About tstockma

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Rocky Mountains, fishing, old-time music (geetar, autoharp, washtub bass).

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    '86 New Horizon 22RE
  • Location
    Strasburg, Colorado

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  1. Matt, if coating the connections wasn't enough, then I recommend simply going thru each connection, take it apart, coat the contact surfaces as well & re-install. That's likely where the moisture is causing the surface corrosion, even if you can't really see it.
  2. Fuses are odd in these years: "Engine" controls a great deal of things including turn signals. Derek's good work lives on, he gave me this image from the '85 factory manaul - but you'll need to be able to read electrical circuit diagram.
  3. Outstanding - thank you Linda, that looks just right! Ordering some now.
  4. HI all, the exit hatch on my '86 New Horizons has a hollow, round seal that is mounted above the screen, pressed up again the actual plastic cover when it's tightened down. Old & disintegrated along part of the edge. I have a couple inches of a different size as a sample, but it's a tad smaller & the "mounting foot" of the new has no "riser", the old has a short "riser" molded into it. The new is approx 1/4" inside diameter, the old looks about 3/8". My RV parts store doesn't have the 3/8 size. Anyone have a good source? Amazon fails me here... And is there specific name for this style seal? Thanks for the great knowledge & help here! Tom in Strasburg
  5. Is this the porch light cover you are looking for? I replaced the original on my '86 2 years ago, some reviewers (either on Amazon, or here on this site) said this brand's plastic didn't hold up, however perhaps I got a "later edition" 2 years back, I bought 2 & the first one is holding up great. If this is the porch light cover you are looking for, hie thee hence to Amazon & search for "sr33101 rv porch light lens".
  6. Thanks, I'll research outside of just the Amazon reviews. Recall a site or two which you'd send me towards?
  7. Yikes, I sure didn't think my little question would cause this much excitement! Fred, your comment about the dc-to-dc regulator is on the money for my purposes. Linda, I will also run off my non-switched power supply from the overhead light. The only reason I'm exploring this is recent models of Maxxair fans, the 10-speed ones, apparently are more sensitive to voltage fluctuations & people report both the fans switching themselves off at times (even when not connected direct to solar), & control boards frying (yes, modern Maxxair have actual "control boards" with logic, not just old fashioned sturdier soldered switches). In my case, I've got a pretty big solar panel...the fan is very efficient, 5 amp on high...I'll usually run at slower speeds, like that 1 amp low setting...I'm not worried about drawing too much power. I'm just wanting to protect what apparently is a somewhat delicate but otherwise very well reviewed roof vent fan. That said, I don't want to interfere with a spirited technical brouhaha, so don't let me stop the discussion.... ; )
  8. Thanks all - I'll check that Analog device & caps. I'm looking into this because I've seen some new Maxxair fans get review on Amazon stating they're pretty picky about getting too much current & cut out if they detect that (or even fry out because they're sensitive). I'll put a meter on mine - I plan to wire through the ceiling light next to the old non-powered 14x4 vent - and see if the solar is regulated well enough by the controller, that I don't need to worry about this.
  9. Nice looking rig! Welcome to the forums & the community of owners. For immediate attention, be sure you check engine oil carefully for the first several hours - especially first time you're on the highway for more than 30 minutes. If the previous owners did something like start the rig up every few months (or years) to keep battery & engine from going stale (& this is very common), enough condensation occurs in that engine to artificially raise the oil level. So new owner drives across town or even an hour or two, but not at real high temps - the oil level seems fine because it's not been heated for long enough - then first time at real speeds, the water evaporates out of the oil & the new owner panics when oil light comes on & they discover very low oil levels. (The engines are tough, adding oil when it's first discovered means all is well, except the new owner is now panicked that they've damaged the engine & there's a frightful Mystery Of The Disapparing Oil to be solved.) Air up - I go with the 40 front, 45 rear - look for threads on changing tranny fluid WITHOUT dropping the pan, instead 2 or 3 changes where you empty thru the drain hole at appropriate intervals, to avoid precipitous flushing of crud which too often happens when well-intentioned mechanics insist on a full pan-drop-and-flush treatment results in blown transmission. Be sure to air up the air bags (assuming you have them) before you drive each time, monitor every couple of hours at first, to find out if they hold air (mine don't & are being replaced next month). Also I'd recommend this, for short-term helpful info & long-term project list: Welcome & good look! Tom
  10. I plan to install one of the better Maxxair fans, I see many reviews say if voltage goes over something like 13.6, they automatically shut down. And solar systems often go over that. Anyone know of a cheap reliable way to do that? Amazon shows me power filters, step-downs, all kinds of options, & don't tend to be cheap. I just need something small & inexpensive to keep voltage within a normal 12 volt system's range.
  11. Consider lower tire pressure - I run 40 front, 45 rear & am OK with somewhat lesser mileage. At 5 lbs more front & rear, I start to feel every crack in the pavement.
  12. Oh yeah baby! My dad might never have changed tranny fluid on any car before he got this Toyota rig, but did his research - he concluded at 45K dropping the pan was safe to do, so paid for a proper change - then at 91K last summer, while I could have dropped the pan, instead I did the proper method for unknown history or very old rigs. Pull tranny fluid out the drain hole & top it up, drive gently for 100 miles (be sure to work each gear shift position), repeat, drive another 500-1000 miles & repeat. Done. Immediate improvement in shifting. When weather turns warm again, having learned from posts here, I plan to check that output shaft for any play or other signs of issues - that's the one weakness people talk about, on these overworked reliable old A43's. I only recently saw apparently you can insert a sleeve over a shaft that's been scored, rather than more serious surgery, if a new seal doesn't stop any leaks. Maineah, I really value your knowledge & experience, & Linda, & others like you. Keeps me coming back. (Still miss Derek too.)
  13. Yep - A43, in an '86 21 foot New Horizon, 22RE engine. Looks like between my dad who had first & me, we've done two fluid changes at 40-45k mile intervals, and it's possible the original owner did one before dad got it at around 45k. ...I speculate you may have something internal beginning to go, but it might last a long time before it need fixin'.
  14. I'm completely stumped too. I agree with Linda - let us know what you find out, if & when you do - could turn out WME is right & there's a moving part which he knows about, & it's working as designed - however it doesn't match what I experience in my rig.
  15. An important part of our community, and an example & reminder to me to stay engaged. Thank you Derek for your life well lived.
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