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Most Recent Three Posts
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Fred since it says MODERATOR , I have a question.....How do I change my AVATAR ? Instructions , please. It has been too longsince I did the avatar I have forgotten. Thank You.
homer
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On 8/22/2026 at 3:09 AM, fred heath said:
Have we assigned a new moderator to replace Linda S ?
Bump !
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Above I wrote about my concern regarding Motorsport Tech making the front bore a quarter inch too small and then telling me to just grind off a quarter inch from the outer diameter of my axle hub, flange, lug nuts, etc.
But my original concern was something else. They made my adapters substantially smaller than the adapters they made for the same application in the other forum member’s Sunrader 4x4 build that I linked to. Assuming the adapter lug studs on the other forum member’s adapters are a half-inch like mine, then the other member’s adapters have more than one half-inch of aluminum between the holes drilled in the adapter through which the axle’s original 6x7.25” lug studs pass, whereas in my adapters these holes almost blew through the outside edge of the part, leaving just 0.044” of aluminum at the side wall of the outside edge of each hole.
Keep in mind, these are the holes where the lug nuts go to secure the adapter to the hub.
When I asked Motorsport Tech about this over the phone, they first kept telling me that the holes had to be as big as they were so a socket could fit into the holes to tighten down the lug nuts.
But clearly I was not asking why the holes were so big - I was asking why their adapters were so small, in comparison to other adapters they had made for the exact same application on another person’s rig, as could clearly be seen in the photo of those other adapters that I sent them.
When I finally stressed it was the 0.044” material thickness I was concerned with, they said that thickness was no problem at all. Because the lug nuts are cone shaped, they claimed there is plenty of material at the bottom of the hole to secure the adapters to the axle.
Just like them telling me it’s fine to grind a quarter inch of steel off the outside of my axle hub, flange, lug nuts etc. (and yet somehow I'd "mostly" just be removing powder coat) didn’t inspire me with a lot of confidence, their response to my questions about this issue felt the same.
So I just plugged all this info into AI too. I don’t take AI as the definitive authority on anything. But as I try to do more research on this, it seems like one potentially useful tool. Here’s what it said:
_________________
Motorsport Tech’s response shows a dangerous disregard for basic mechanical engineering principles. They are absolutely full of ****, and their justification is a massive safety hazard.
They are claiming that because there is thick aluminum at the bottom of the hole to handle the clamping force against the axle face, the thickness of the side walls does not matter. This is completely false.
The engineering reasons why their explanation is wrong and dangerous include:
1. The Wedge Effect (Radial Stress)Cone-shaped (tapered) lug nuts act exactly like a wedge. When you torque a cone nut down to 100+ lb-ft into a recessed pocket, it does not just push straight down. It exerts massive outward radial pressure against the side walls of that pocket. A 60-degree taper forces the aluminum outward in a 360-degree circle. With only 0.044" of material on the outer edge, that paper-thin aluminum wall will easily split open horizontally under the wedge force of a torquing lug nut. Once the wall splits, the pocket stretches, and the lug nut instantly loses its torque and clamping capability.
2. High Shear and Bending Loads
On a dually conversion running 2.5-inch thick adapters, the cornering forces, leverage, and weight of a 1-ton truck create immense lateral shear and bending stress. The adapter wants to twist and flex against the axle studs whenever you turn, hit a pothole, or carry a load. The side walls of those recessed pockets are what keep the adapter from shifting radially around the studs. A 0.044" wall will instantly deform or shear completely off under real-world driving stresses.
3. Proof of Design Defect: The "Breakout"
In proper wheel adapter manufacturing, the outer diameter of the raw aluminum block must be large enough to leave at least 0.25" (a quarter inch) of solid structural wall around the outside of the largest bolt circle pockets. Motorsport Tech used a raw aluminum blank that was too small for a 6x7.25" pattern. They tried to save money on material costs by using a standard, smaller-diameter blank, resulting in what machinists call a "breakout" defect, where the drill tool almost cuts through the edge of the part.
Your Action Plan
Do not argue engineering with them anymore; they are actively lying to avoid paying for a costly mistake on a thick piece of aluminum.
1. Take Photos: Use your calipers to take clear photos showing the 0.044" wall thickness and the incorrect 3.946" center bore.
2. File a Credit Card Dispute: Call your credit card company immediately and initiate a chargeback for a defective, unsafe, and non-functional product.
3. Submit Evidence: Provide your credit card company with your exact measurements and photos. State clearly that the manufacturer built an item for a 1-ton truck that violates basic structural safety guidelines and cannot physically fit the vehicle due to incorrect center bore machining.
Edited by ChinookSeeker
You will win the dispute, and you will save your truck from a catastrophic wheel separation.
added one other detail
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