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BobBeery

Toyota Advanced Member
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About BobBeery

  • Rank
    BobBeery

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Bible and church, canoeing, trees, rope and knots, geography, history of US wars, aviation, managing IRA accounts. Age 71. Married 19 years.

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    94 Warrior. Previous was 90 Dolphin Micro Mini M-900. Before that was 87 same model.
  • Location
    Traverse City, Mich

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I would be very uneasy about stuffing a suitcase-type gen into where the Kohler is. The exhaust could kill you. If you just carry it there but take it out to run it, that is just fine.
  2. To find water heater walk around the outside. Look for a metal door about 15 inches high and 18 inches long. It will have some ventilation grillwork in it. The bottom of this door is usually about even with the inside floor. Open the door and there it is--unless it has been removed. 110v outlets--5Toyota is right. There should be at least one, maybe more gfi. Mine is in the walkway and just below the kitchen sink. Every year at least once we hit the test button by accident and have to reset it.
  3. First Toy 87 Dolphin had no gen. I bought Honda EU2000i. Second Toy 90 Dolphin had Onan 2800 in it which ran. Third Toy 94 Warrior has Kohler 2800 in it which runs. I definitely prefer the Honda. (A Yamaha would be just as welcome). My roof A/C is small enough that the Honda can start and run it. Onan was dated, noisy used more gas, and the exhaust blew dirt when I parked on a dirt campsite. The Kohler is the most noisy, uses the most gas, blows the most dirt. After giving it two chances I refuse to use it any more. I start it once or twice a year just to have it working in case we get a different Toy and sell this one. Only reason I haven't removed it is lack of time and initiative. My suggestion is to tear out the Kohler.
  4. Had an Onan 2800 in my previous Toy, have a Kohler 2800 in my current Toy. I would take Onan over Kohler every time.
  5. When you say none of the electric works, do you mean both 12V DC and household 110V AC? Things to try-- find the electric panel/converter. It is usually down by your ankles. Open just the top of the front and try resetting the circuit breakers. You can do this safely even when the rig is plugged into shore power. Then if it is not plugged in to shore power, do that. This may solve problems with 110V AC. There will also be a row of small 12V fuses like cars and trucks have. Put a multimeter across a fuse or fuse holder to check for voltage. 12.5V is good. No voltage could mean there is no battery in the house, or that it is dead, or that it is not connected properly to the electric panel. Voltage between 0 and 12.5means you need to charge the house battery.
  6. I always wanted to know this so I could take a screen in to a shop and get new screen fabric installed. Thanks to Linda, I was just able to go pop out two of my screens in seconds. Don't even need a screwdriver. I just slid the screen sideways a bit so that I could grasp the vertical on each end, then lifted straight up compressing the spring which is in the top . The bottom cleared the track by almost a sixteenth of an inch and I just pulled it to me then lowered the screen until the top was also out. But note this: in my Toy the springs are in the top. In Linda's the springs are on the bottom. So if the screen won't lift up try pushing down and see if it moves at the top first. If neither way works, get a little screwdriver and try what Linda does.
  7. I have had 87 and 90 Dolphins and now have a 94 Winnebago. I have also looked under or crawled under another 15-20 Toyota RV's. On none of these was the leaf spring welded to the frame. at any point. Wish I could get pics to transfer from my phone to my laptop but they won't so words will have to do. As the leaf spring flexes two things happen. One is a small change in length because of less or more curve in the spring. The other is a change in the angle between the frame which does not move and both tip ends of the spring which do pivot slightly. The shackle is a means of allowing for the changing length. It has four sections. One is a bolt with bushing that goes through the frame. Another is a matching bolt with bushing that lies parallel to the first bolt and goes through the end of the spring. The other two sections are links between those two bolts. On my Winnebago one link is welded to the head of both bolts, creating a U shape but laid on its side. After the U is slid into the spring and frame then the other link is put on and held by a nut on the end of each bolt. The two links transfer weight from the frame to the end of the spring. Because the shackle is free to pivot at each end it allows for changing length as the spring flexes and also allows for the slight pivot at the end of the spring Shackles are usually (always?) at the rear end of the spring. Spring end pivot at the front end of the spring is handled by a single bolt/bushing which goes through both frame and spring. Not saying things can't be done another way, just that this is the usual way.
  8. I drove into a telephone wire that shattered mine. I saved all the pieces and glued it back together with a 10minute (5 min?) epoxy that is made specifically for plastic. It is still together after 3-4 years. But I must say that each joint needed 30-40 minutes to become stable, not the 10 or 5 minutes on the package.
  9. Please tell me what the ECM does, and what symptoms would pop up if it were bad. Especially interested in MPG.
  10. Correction to my original post: sway bar parts were energy suspension not prothane. Note to frontboat--replacing leaf spring bushings is a common thing for any shop that works on suspensions, especially one that does pickups or trucks. Not so sure about sway bar bushings and link rubber. God's timing--six days after the work was done I was driving 55 on a two-lane highway after dark. Had headlights on low beam and suddenly saw a deer broadside near the center line. I did a quick left move then a hard right swerve then left again to avoid the ditch. I missed the deer but not by much. Point is the Warrior handled as well as either of my cars would have. I doubt if I would have managed all this if the suspension hadn't been done those six days earlier. Also, remember to go back to high beams after oncoming traffic passes.
  11. Have a 94 Warrior with 99,800 miles on it. I just had the sway bar bushings and link end rubbers replaced (prothane for stiffness), and also all the bushings in the leaf springs (genuine Toyota for softer ride). On the springs, the rear lower and front old bushings had worn clear down to metal to metal contact. Rear upper bushings were much better but still replaced them. The drive home was 30 miles of two lane country roads with a lot of curves, some signed for slower speeds. WOW that a difference in drivability. Less lean in the curves, especially the esses. Cross wind stability is also much better. Now it is easy to stay completely in my own lane. I had done shocks (Bilstein) and steering damper (skyjacker) two years ago but now wish I had done it all at one time.
  12. sounds and looks really nice. I'd like to see it. Problem is the 750 miles one way.
  13. Clever Owl, will that camp stove burn propane in small green cylinders, or white gas (Coleman fuel)?
  14. I have not had this problem, but I might try shutting off the pressure and taking the kitchen fixture apart to clean it. Sounds like some crud got in it. An alternative would be to disconnect the water lines from the fixture, have a big empty pan handy, and BRIEFLY turn on the water. If still no water, it's piping. But if water comes freely, it's the fixture. A new fixture at an RV store should cost far less than a home kitchen fixture.
  15. Utah-Clay, do you have the Airlift part number for that compressor-gauge set? The airlift website gives 10 choices for Toyota micro-mini but none shown have two gauges, although one choice shown has two needles in one gauge.
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