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Toyota Advanced Member
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About mustrmrk

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  • Interests
    Sailing, RVing

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1987 Damon Escaper
  • Location
    Radford, VA

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  1. Our local county transfer station weighed us for free. The scale is pretty far away from the waste, so no tire issues. Might be worth looking into in your area.
  2. Thank you all. I've decided to get the frames sand blasted and will repaint them, and will likely replace the mirrors as the glass rattles in them.
  3. Anyone know of a source for side mirror frames (with or without the mirror head) that look like these? The "U" piece is about 12" between the legs and the outer bar is about 14" from the window. If I can't find anything that'll ft, I'll either have to remove them and get them sandblasted or have new custom tubing made. I've looked around the Internet pretty well, and so far haven't any luck. I did find a used pair on eBay for $350, but that's a bit too spendy for my taste <grin>.
  4. FWIW - from 22reperformance.com: Check the valve adjustment and keep an eye out for any that are too tight. We recommend checking valve adjustment every 7.5k to 10k miles. I know the manual says to adjust them with the engine “hot”, but we’ve found the adjustment procedure to give more consistent results and turn out more accurate when done COLD. Cold means that you can’t feel any heat when you lay your hand on the engine. We also recommend going a hair tighter than the factory says too. .007” on the intake and .011” on the exhaust side. If it’s your first time adjusting valves, TAKE YOUR TIME AND TRIPLE CHECK YOUR WORK.
  5. I had a similar issue that was finally solved by replacing the fan clutch. Made all the difference. This was after a top engine rebuild due to a head gasket leak, and new water pump and radiator.
  6. I've got a friend who mounted a small solar panel - just enough to run his muffin type fridge vent fan - and ran it directly to the fan through a switch. When on, the stack is ventilated as long as it's light outside - during the heat of the day when it's needed most.
  7. The Thetford Aqua Magic IV came in 16.25" and 12.5" heights. There's a step up in my shower pan that's about 1.5 inches. I had the 16.25 high one IV and it fit pretty well. The Aqua Magic V comes in 18.5" (too high) or 14" (too low). I ended up ordering the V in the 14" height and added a 2.5" riser, also by Thetford. (.https://www.campingworld.com/thetford-toilet-riser-2.5-parchment-13286.html?msclkid=439a669b31d91715c4350647a0177841&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=[adv%3A Camping World] [plt%3A Bing] [fun%3A Performance] [ini%3A Low Margin] [str%3A PROSP] [tgt%3A Shopping] [cou%3A US]&utm_term=4580840328061525&utm_content=CW - Low Margin 20% or Less&gclid=439a669b31d91715c4350647a0177841&gclsrc=3p.ds This setup comes in at 0.25 higher than my original IV. I'll install over the weekend and will report back.
  8. I'd like to thank everyone who has participated in this awesome thread - very helpful. I also have an issue I'd like some help with that may be relevant. As I posted here: https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/12604-brake-booster-question/&tab=comments#comment-116439 , I had a hard brake pedal almost continuously and found that the booster was full of brake fluid. So I replaced both the booster and the master cylinder. The brakes work "way more better" than they dd. However, when I press the brake pedal quickly I don't seem to have any assist and have to stand on it to stop. But when I press the pedal more slowly, I have great power assist and the brakes are awesome. I asked someone about what it could be and he replied "The proportioning valve only operates when the brakes are depressed quickly, and it prevents the rear brakes from locking up first and sending the vehicle into a skid. When the brakes are depressed slowly the proportioning valve does not operate." This seems consistent with what I read in the training manual pdf in the initial post of this thread, e.g. "The proportioning valve only operates when the brakes are depressed quickly, and it prevents the rear brakes from locking up first and sending the vehicle into a skid. When the brakes are depressed slowly the proportioning valve does not operate." Makes sense to me, and the whole "no proportioning when pressed slowly" thing would seem to point to the LSPV. However, I fail to understand how a faulty LSPV could make it seem like I have no power assist when the pedal is depressed quickly. I'd really appreciate it if you kind folks can help me to better understand this issue.
  9. We use Erie for everything. No big national ad footprint, no tv ads, just really good insurance. Had a house claim and they were incredibly easy to work with and did not raise my rates. Never had an auto claim, but I expect they'll treat me right there, too, if the need ever arises. The way I see it is, if a company spends a ton of money on advertising, somebody's got to subsidize it.
  10. Thanks Linda and 5Toyota. My primary concern is the location of the bowl vs the outlet. The current replacement head seats me a few inches further forward than the old IV. I will take a better look at the measurements for both the IV and the V. Does the hand flush V have the two handle flush where one can either "dry flush" or flush with water like the old IV did?
  11. All, Our 87 Escaper had a Thetford Aqua Magic IV toilet in it when we sold it. When we bought it back it had a Dometic something, don't have the model handy. The new toilet is taller and further forward than the old one. Without going into detail, in the limited space available it's almost useless to me. I need to get measurements, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had difficulty finding the correct replacement for the Aqua Magic IV, and, if so, what your solution was. A composting toilet seemed like it might be a good replacement until I saw the price. At least with the composting toilet I could install it fairly close to the back wall and not worry about the location of the rough in flange. For now, though, I'm still trying to locate a standard RV head that will fit. I'll post the measurements when I get them, but in the meantime, any suggestions welcome.
  12. Here's a grainy shot of the roller. As you can see, there isn't a whole lot of room between the awning and the door.
  13. Wanderlustking, I'll get you some photos in the next day or two. In the meantime, the roller is on the main door only. Not sure how you could rig one up for the screen. I pretty much use the roller only when I'm testing the awning height if it doesn't make contact, I know it's okay for the screen door to open and close without wearing the awning. We don't actually use ours all that much. It's the old-school type with legs that are not attached to the side of the camper. This makes it pretty unstable if it's breezy, allowing it to lift if there's enough wind.
  14. Our door has a small caster-like roller on the corner to prevent scraping the awning. That may be something you could consider. It only makes contact if the awning isn't raised high enough.
  15. I remembered. Armor All or silicone spray. Clean, soak, reinstall and see what happens.
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