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pachudzik

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  1. Hey guys - ‘91 warrior auto v6 runs like a top and shifts well through all gears.. I can shift from ‘D’ into ‘2’ using the column shifter when I need it .. and beyond the ‘2’ there is an ‘L’ which I presume is 1st gear, but my shifter won’t budge beyond ‘2?’ would really like to use ‘L’ for low speed engine braking at times on steep slopes but I’m not sure if this is factory setting or if I can adjust something to gain access? again, all gears wrk and shift well, including from 1-2 and vice-versa, and the dash shift indicator appears well calibrated
  2. Diagnosed a faulty a/c pressure switch which was erratically short cycling the compressor.. question is: Does this things let out Freon when it’s removed or is there a valve built in that cuts keeps the system sealed when I remove it? I just had the system tested and filled up (to discover the switch needs replaced.) thanks edit: cab a/c
  3. Ok. I snipped out the P-trap with a PVC cutter and by squeezing my arms through the service opening under the shower. By snipping off the broken portion chunks at a time I was able to remove the slip joints completely, otherwise there was no vertical space to remove in one piece. It was cracked and very brittle. I found a rubber P-trap at home depot, two hose clamps and donzo!
  4. Maineah, I was looking at it all wrong; As you point out the pipes I was referring to are actually just the one pipe which is the P-trap (the loop is not visible as it goes below the floor, making it look like two pipes), and sure is cracked. I'm guessing it froze. Now, once I fix it I can make sure to leave anti-freeze in it to prevent future cracking, are use some other method to replace the P-trap. Do I even need a P-trap? Has anyone tried these inline one way flow attachments, such as the ones sold by Hepvo? Does not look like I have to drop the tank after all, but now I know that the connections to it are grommeted so thanks for that info, Linda.
  5. After very little searching I found the source of my plumbing leak, but am confused about how I should fix it... '91 Warrior Underneath the shower pan I can see two drain pipes descending into the grey water tank, one presumably from the kitchen sink and the other to drain the shower pan. When running the sink, I can hear water draining into the grey water tank no problem; however, when I run the shower about 100% of the water going down the drain (and down the pipe connected to it) comes up around the outside of the drain pipes, flooding from the square cut-out in the floor that pipes pass through to the grey water tank. Grey water tank is nearly empty, so I don't believe that is the culprit. The shower pan drains completely, and the other drain pipe for the sink works well. Does anyone know how these drain pipes connect to the grey water tank? i.e. is the connection threaded, glued, compression fitting, passive v. check valve? Seems like I have to drop the grey water tank, in any case. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
  6. Ahh, thank you. I see them for sale now for 85 dang dollars. Wish I replaced with standard vents when I resealed my roof this summer.. Oh well.
  7. In shopping for replacement vent lids I have not found anything on the internet for the type of hinges found on these vent lids on my '91 warrior.. Any guidance is greatly appreciated!
  8. Maineah, You are correct! I believe this was a long time in the making. That large, multi-strand white wire was only hanging on by 3 hairs. Per a friend's suggestion, I cleaned up the bus bar, clipped the wires back to fresh copper and reconnected them with dielectric grease and everything works great again. I just left the bus bar "floating" by the wires in the box since that plastic piece was too fried to put back. Any issues with leaving it that way? Thanks everyone for your responses.
  9. Hello, all! Just got my first Toy home, a 1991 Warrior 321RB. Everything was working great until today: Connected to shore power, I turned on the air conditioner on High Cool and within a minute smelled cooking wires. When I opened the panel below the sofa-bed, I found all the wires connected to the bus bar are equally fried and the breakers had not tripped at all (See photo attached). The only other electrical draw was coming from the stock Dometic fridge on a low thermostat setting. I have been using this set-up for several weeks with no problems, so why all of a sudden? Any thoughts on what caused this? Thanks in advance!
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