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About htioki

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    92 Winnebago Warrior
  • Location
    So Cal

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  1. I ran into this same issue. New longer bolts and different size of washers solved the issue for me.
  2. I heard others have good success with 3 row radiator, but it did not work for me. Truck ran hot right off the gate. A mechanic said the factory water pump is undersized to push coolant through the radiator. As far as where to buy online, try RockAuto. In most cases, RA's price + shipping is cheaper than Amazon with free shipping.
  3. No speedometer cable on mine. VSS is fine, it was the speedometer. I removed the speedo gauge and took it to a speedometer repairman who re-soldered a few connections and replaced a couple capacitors on the circuit board. If you're in So Cal and run into same issue, this is the speedo repair shop that repaired mine (call first): S W Speedometer 1041 N Grand Ave #144, Covina, CA 91724 800 833-4669 Also found this place where you can send your cluster to have it repaired. Toyota Pickup Truck 1992-1995 (atlantaspeedometer.com) This video is helpful for removing the instrument cluster and speedo gauge:
  4. I was able to pull the codes by following the instructions in the link from Linda: Trouble code: 42 Fault Location: Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) - circuit Probable cause: wiring, VSS, ECM Any suggestion what I should check first? How severe is this issue,?
  5. Thank you for the responses. Sounds like I need to do more research/diagnostic. Also curious to hear feedback on speed sensors from RockAuto, as they are cheaper than the dealer.
  6. Could it be the speedomoter sensor? Leading up to this problem was erratic behavior of the speedometer needle. Below is the link of the sensor from TPD. 83181-35070 - Toyota Parts Deal Also, not sure if it's related, the CEL came on for short time and the light turn off by itself. It was on OD going up on a slight uphill on a freeway. How do I pull codes? Thanks in advance for the help.
  7. Anyone heard of Joyroad tires? Can't seem to find any online reviews on them. A local small tire shop quoted me $630 OTD mounted and balanced for a set of 6. Joyroad Van RX5, 185R14, 102/100Q, D (8 Ply) (prioritytire.com)
  8. The entire generator is approximately 18" tall. The mounting bracket is about 14"x15". The muffler and the cylinder sit below the bracket. Hopefully the attached photos help. Last photo (upside down) is of the compartment where the generator used to be mounted.
  9. As far as removing generator, it's pretty straightforward. Before I describe the steps, full disclaimer: do this at your own risk. I'm not responsible for any damage, injury or death resulted from this. You can also search youtube for "removing rv generator". I found a couple videos that helped with this project. Now we get that out of the way, this is what I did. Disconnect all connections at the coach battery. Follow all the electrical connections attached to the generator and either cut or disconnect them. Detach the throttle/choke cable. Disconnect the fuel line and drain it into a fuel can so you can re-pour it back to your gas tank later. Once the fuel is drained from the line, plug the line. I shoved a screw that is slightly larger than the inner diameter of the line and clamped the line with a hose clamp. Locate the bolts that hold the generator to the coach (mine was mounted on the lower frame with 4 bolts and nuts). Loosen the bolts but don't remove them yet. If there is a ground wire attached to one of the bolts, disconnect the wire. Put a large cardboard under the generator. Place a floor jack under the generator and jack it up to support the bottom while you remove the bolts. After you get the bolts out, slowly lower the generator. Slowly remove the jack from under the generator and carefully lay down the generator on the cardboard. Pull the cardboard out from under the RV. Now you have the generator out. Reinstall the one bolt and reconnect the ground wire. As far as abandoning the fuel feed line. I didn't feel safe just by plugging it. For my generator the fuel feed line was teed off of a fuel return line at the rubber hose section. This hose section is located above the fuel tank on the passenger side, 1/4" inner diameter and just a tad short of 2 feet long. I replaced this with one piece section of new rubber hose (no tee). Autozone, O'reilly, or your local auto parts store should have fuel rubber hoses in different sizes. I got mine from O'reilly. Make sure the new fuel line connections are tight and you don't smell any fuel. There was thick cable connecting my generator to the positive terminal on the coach battery. For now I just taped both ends with a lot of electric tape and secured the cable to the frame so that it's not dangling around. Leave the other end disconnected from the battery. My generator had a control panel inside the coach for starting and displaying the run time. The wires that feed this control panel is under the sofa and clamped to the floor. Remove the clamp screws. And then remove the 4 screws on the panel and yank out all those wires out. That's it. Pour the fuel back to the gas tank. Run the engine for a few minutes, turn it off and check for leaks at the new rubber fuel hose. I think adding a solar charging system is a cool idea. Maybe I'll install it on my rig someday.
  10. If we are going to areas where we would need to run the AC, we just look for a campsite in those areas with full hookup.
  11. Of all the places that we've taken the RV to, we found ourselves hardly needing the generator. I think I'm going to use the space to store wheel chocks, lego leveling blocks and a bottle jack. If needed for a trip, we have a portable generator that we can bring on a hitch mounted cargo tray carrier.
  12. Original onboard Kohler generator removed from my 92 warrior a couple of weeks ago. Model 2.5 CMZ. Only has about 210 hours on it. In the year and a half that we owned the RV, it only worked sometimes and we only used it probably 30 minutes max. I haven't done any maintenance on it, nor do I have service records from previous owners. Definitely need some work to make it reliable. I don't really have time to mess with it and could use its compartment space for additional storage. I don't know how much it's worth, so send me an offer via PM. Pickup in Southern California (LA County). I'll add photos later. Mods, if this posting is not allowed, please delete.
  13. Nice work! Looking to do something similar. What did you use to plug the fuel line from the fuel tank?
  14. Consider composting toilet. We installed it in our previous travel trailer and now Toyhome. We have Natures Head toilet, but if I were to start over again, I'd go with this one: https://www.c-head.com/
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