Odyssey 4x4

Can’t complain about that!

Does the fan not work on any of the speed options? It’s common for the blower motor resistors to go out and you’ll lose your fan control at the switch, or it will only work on a few of the settings.

also new lol

That has been replaced as well!

Ill swap the sensors out on the coolant bypass block in summer, like i said, it's a real pain in the neck spot to get to them and the upper and lower intake plenum need to come off so i'll do the dreaded knock sensor/wiring harness at the same time. My coolant is all new and when I did the flush the old coolant looked just fine, so I too find it hard to believe my bypass pipe is blocked. If it were, I'm not sure any of the sensors would work at all, especially my dash temp gauge. My TPS tested out good when I pulled it off and cleaned the throttle body and lines out as well. It may be worth rechecking it, but it' somewhat difficult to diagnose considering it's only during extra hot engine conditions after interstate drives. For example, it may test out good cold but once hot will it test out of spec? I'm not sure, and I think that should trigger a check engine light as well. I've always kinda figured I may end up doing a 3.4 swap in this truck so I never wanted to dump a bunch of money into the 3.0. The 3.0 3VZE gets a lot of hate on the internet as the "3.slow" and one of the worst toyota engines made, but I gotta tell you, it cranks my RV along just fine. It's funny that it's known as being a slow and sluggish engine when just on the truck platform, not even considering an RV! If I don't mind watching my fuel gauge drop quickly I have no problem keeping up with traffic leaving red lights and cruising around a majority of the time, as well as cruising on the interstate at 65 mph no problem. The only place is struggles is steep grade roads which I have found true with my other Toyota RV as well and is really to just be expected considering I'm driving a 35 year old truck with a house built on it up a mountain. I know the 3.4 would have a decent amount more power (something like 40 hp I think), as well as a better engine design and OBD 2 system, but for now I'm going to stick with the 3.0 as it seems to do just fine. Perhaps if I lose a head gasket or some other big failure I'll start actually considering a 3.4 swap.

A non productive update. I did a smoke test and found one small vacuum leak but it was on a vacuum line that I had previously replaced, and this hot start issue has existed since I bought the truck so I know it isn't that. After doing a lot of research it appears a few people have battled this issue and still not solved. I am wondering if the issue could be the fuel pressure regulator, but i've read others had no success once replacing. I am also considering a bad engine coolant temp sensor since this can cause all types of weird issues, but this should trigger a check engine light. This 3vze engine has a "coolant bypass block" on the rear side of the motor that houses all kinds of sensors that rely on engine coolant flowing by for correct temp readings. This block can look a bit different depending on year of truck. (not my photo) From my understanding the red arrow sensor is for the temp gauge (single wire), green arrow (2 wire) is coolant temp sensor for ECU, black arrow (2 wire) is for the cold start injector, and yellow arrow (single wire) i am not 100% sure. I believe the yellow arrow is possibly for the automatic transmission, something to do with overdrive only functioning once engine is warm? Some also apparently have a coolant temp switch that turns the AC off under hot engine conditions, I am unsure if that's what the yellow arrow could be. Of course these are all in a terrible spot to get to behind the intake plenum on back of engine. There is also a coolant bypass pipe that runs underneath the lower intake plenum and gives the passage way for the coolant to make it to this rear coolant bypass sensor block. I have read that someone with this issue has found their coolant bypass pipe completely clogged. Once cleaned it resolved their issue. Of course this is another headache of a job having to remove near the entire top of the engine to get to it! (not my photos but showing the coolant bypass pipe) At this point I'm not quite sure what route I am going to take. I will probably just enjoy the camper for the winter and pull the engine apart once it warms up again in Florida and makes camping not so fun.

I agree on it likely not being vapor lock, but could definitely be a possibility. I will whip up a smoke tester and see if I can find anything regarding a leak, I haven’t tried that one yet! I have however already replaced 99% of the vacuum lines, maybe it’s the last 1% with a leak! I also replaced intake manifold gasket when I did the injectors. I’ve also removed and cleaned the throttle bottle completely and did that gasket as well! I’ll also go ahead and start double checking grounds.

The Odyssey has a slight issue that it has had since I purchased it. It starts, runs and cruises excellent. It cruises beautifully and runs great having no problem cruising at 65 mph.The problem is after cruising on the interstate for long distances (longer than an hour drive). Once I stop for fuel it has no issue getting to the gas station, but once I shut it off and fuel it up and restart it, it has a low idle and runs incredibly rough, even stalling at times. If i cycle the key a few times before starting it sometimes seems to help, as well as turning the AC on to bring the idle up. If I am able to pull onto the road and give it throttle it seems to "clear out" and runs basically normal again with no low idle or stuttering. I should also mention it does this after stopping at a grocery store or wherever else, so it is not specifically a result of getting gas, more so just a hot soak issue. Check engine light is not on and there are no codes stored in memory when checked. I have replaced all of the usual suspects while doing other work and repairs on the rig to make it reliable. New plugs, wires, distributor, injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines, EVAP vapor canister etc. The air flow meter and TPS checked out good under an ohm test. The problem is somewhat hard to recreate since it requires doing a lot of driving. My next guess is possibly a fuel pressure regulator? Engine coolant temp sensor (unsure if a bad one would trigger a check engine light)? My pops says it sounds like vapor lock. I believe this rig is supposed to have a system that prevents vapor lock using a vacuum solenoid which I tested out as good (although I did not test it under hot conditions). Anyone got any ideas? Is it worth throwing a new fuel pressure regulator on? Edit: I just took a look at all engine codes for the 3vze are there is a code for engine coolant temp sensor as well as TPS and air flow, I'd imagine that I would have a check engine light if these were the issue

You may find this thread useful when I found my tank was full of rust…

I installed a water heater that’s propane as well as 120V, although it pulls a lot of power. Not an issue if plugged into shore or if you have a decent battery bank.

In this fan clutch diagnostic video on a toyota 3.4, he does a test on his clutch to see if he's able to get the fan to stop spinning with a piece of paper against the blades while running. This would make me think that the fan does not spin at a 1:1 ratio and different duty clutches may indeed spin the fan at different RPMs.

you first!

Thanks much!

I rebuilt the rotted out door on my Odyssey, time consuming but not too difficult. I was able to build it for a newer window with built in blackout shade as well as an electronic lock. I used filon on the outside and formica on the inside.

You may still be right, perhaps older tech is different than the modern stuff. I’m not sure if the fan spins at a 1:1 ratio with engine rpm on these old toyotas, but I have seen people saying both things on the internet (HD clutch makes it come on more often / lower temp, in comparison to hd clutch spinning the fan at a higher rpm when engaged). Maybe someone more knowledgeable on the subject will chime in.