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Gulfstream Greg

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About Gulfstream Greg

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    Happy Trails!
  • Birthday 04/07/1955

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    Willamina Oregon
    Timbertown USA

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  1. You may have bought a switching disconnect solenoid. Switching solenoids switch from off to on or on to off. They operate by using a momentary on push button switch that supplies power to the trigger terminal (ign) to trigger them from on to off or off to on. The momentary push button switch sends power temporarily to the solenoid, switching its direction. The solenoid locks itself on or off. Like a toggle switch.
  2. Some of those with two prongs on the front operate differently than a solenoid isolator. Like this one which is the wrong type. Notice that when power is applied it switches on or off. https://www.intellitec.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/53-00066-100.pdf And no matter what, the wiper wire should not have been cut like that. And your solenoid should have been getting 12v ignition from somewhere else, not the wiper circuit.
  3. Can you hear the solenoid click when you give it ignition power? If it does not click and you have 12v on the small terminal it is bad . If it does click and you only have 12 volts on one side of the large terminals it is bad. If it has 12 volts on both sides follow the wire testing as you go. I may have missed something but why did the previous owner cut the wire going to the windshield wiper motor. Were both add on white wires not connected to anything? Find any other wires that are not connected to anything?
  4. Howdy all. I finally have a new classifieds up and running. It is still in its testing and tuning phase but seems to be running ok. If anyone encounters some problems or has some suggestions please contact me through the classifieds "Contct Us" link. Greg
  5. There might be a drain hole in the pan on the AC itself to drain rain and condensation onto the roof.
  6. I logged in as danlang and did the test post. He is having login issues.
  7. Yup, 1/2 ton chassis. Not to say a different box can't be stuck in it. Google for some toyota 4x4 pickup rock crawler parts.
  8. Thought I saw one that was being restored and it had a metal frame?
  9. Where any V6 trucks produced with any other additional modules or do they all just have the engine control module. And you mention tweaking the sensors. Is the tweaked sensor a different part number? And can these ECM's be tuned, is there a way to tweak the ECM? Maybe tweak the ECM with a different sensor?
  10. Use the freezer tray for the initial leveling. Find a flat parking area. Get it exact then place your levels. Two inside the coach and two inside the cab. When parking get it close with the cab levels then check the coach levels. The cab and coach will not always read the same due to some twisting of the cab and frame on uneven terrain. We had a refer in one rig that really needed to be almost perfect to be happy. I think it had a ruff life before we got the rig. Everyone's refer will cool differently depending on it's history. I have met many who had no clue the refer needed to be level.
  11. There are some more components to a happy refer. 1: a ventilation fan mounted at the highest vent, the idea is to get air flow through the back coils. There are some solar fan options. You want to suck the air from the bottom to the top and out the vent 2: Pre-cool the refer with some frozen water bottles in both the freezer and the main compartments. Leave them in for your trip if you can. 3: Thermal mass. These refers work with thermal mass. Pre-cool everything your going to put in it. If it is empty when you open the door all the cold air dumps out, replaced with warm air. 4: Leveling. Don't use the inside of the refer to check if you are level. Pre-level and place some bubble levels somewhere for easy checking. 5: Get a temp monitor made for these refers. They end some of the guessing. 6: Plan your trips into the refer. Get everything once, opening and closing the door several times while preparing meals is tuff to recover from. 7: Gas vs Electric. The electric heating element is mounted directly to the tube that needs to be heated. The gas is different in that the heat from the flame travels up through the chimney through a spiral baffle. That spiral baffle can eventually start to decay to the point where it becomes harder and harder to transfer the flames heat. If you are finding a bunch of rusty debris below the chimney then the baffle is dying. That disintegrating baffle is one reason an older refer has cooling problems. 8: It is also possible that a previous owner ran the refer too far out of level too many times and some of the cooling mixture has solidified in the internals.
  12. My apologies if someone already covered this. I am going to point my finger at your EGR valve. If it sticks open you will not be able to idle because it will create a vacuum leak. They can seal or not seal randomly. The EGR valves are notorious for getting a build up of carbon and gunk inside. They open up at higher rpms via a vacuum line. I think it is mounted on the back of the cylinder head next to the firewall. If you were in a different state you could remove it and install a delete plate.
  13. Airlift and Firestone both have compressor kits that can be operated from the cab. They include gauges so that you can keep track of what pressures you like best.
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