Gulfstream Greg

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About Gulfstream Greg

  • Rank
    Happy Trails!
  • Birthday 04/07/1955

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  • Website URL
    http://www.k6gph.org

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  • Gender
    From Outerspace
  • Interests
    Ham Radio - Computers

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  • Location
    Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
    In the Redwoods!

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  1. I think it is called "war driving".
  2. Make sure you have the correct gas cap and no blocked vent lines or fume recovery items. Maybe someone can chime in how that year tank is vented etc. Incorrect or blocked venting can collapse a tank.
  3. Verizon has USB modem devices that connected into their network just like a cell phone. I still have one (somewhere) but have not used it in a couple of years. Mine has an antenna jack and I ran it with a Wilson trucker cell antenna. It was a pay by month. just called them up and activated it for a month, cost was dependent on how much bandwidth you needed for that month. Can't remember the model number similar to these http://www.ebay.com/sch/Verizon-USB-Modems/175710/bn_361470/i.html
  4. I have upgraded my last two toys with the 6345u's http://www.parallaxpower.com/6345ru-replacement-upgrade-6345ru they are a solid state device outputting clean DC. Also for emergency 12vdc power for my ham station I have an IOATA converter float charging full time a group 27 agm, Both the IOATA and 6345 connect the battery and 12v output circuit in parallel. Both have some sort of smart charger, the battery in parallel itself acts as a filter. The IOATA I have is rated at 55 amps and I think the 6345u is 45 amps.
  5. As Maineah said you might have an over voltage scenario, Also if you have an old style 6300 converter you might have a considerable amount of AC voltage mixed with the DC. The old 6300 converters are only half wave rectified and not full wave rectified. If you have a multi meter set it to AC and test your 12vdc circuit while plugged into shore power. If you do have AC mixed with the DC the bad news is AC will fry some 12vdc devices. Only cure is to upgrade your converter to a modern one. One other problem with the old 6300's is over charging of the coach battery when on shore power for long periods of time. The old 6300 converters have a relay that switches out the coach battery from the coaches 12vdc circuit and supplies the 12vdc circuit with it's 12vdc half wave rectified power supply. When the relay is switched when plugged into shore power the battery is connected to the converters charger. If you don't already have a multi meter consider purchasing one, they are worth their weight in gold!
  6. Remember that the batteries might weigh a certain weight but when you encounter ruff road conditions, pot holes, dips etc there will be some G-Force applied amplifying the weight considerably. My question why so many batteries? Two group 24 agm, solar panels and a small backup generator.
  7. There are a bunch of products to run wires on the surface of a wall or ceiling https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS738US738&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=hide+wire+on+wall+surface
  8. A roof mount in the vent hole is the best AC. I think $500 or so though. Most likely there is 120v power hidden in the vent edge. For ventilation vent fans my preference is a variable speed one. I find the three speed fans too noisy on low and it is always nice to pull in some quiet cool air in the evening. If there is no 12dc power in the vent hole you might be able to pull some power from a nearby light fixture.
  9. Very true and probably illegal. Only ever drafted once. Was driving north on Highway 101 in CA against a 30 mph head wind. I was driving the turbo sunrader. All by myself I really had to have my foot in it and was running max boost of about 7 pounds and about 50 mph. A truck got onto the freeway in front of me and I fell in behind. Boost almost dropped to zero with allot less foot in the pedal. Ran like that for about 40 miles. The trucker moved to the other lane to pass a slow car. I hesitated. Never could catch back up once I was back in the head wind.
  10. Having been a motor head all my life and having run K&N and K&N type air filters on many different engines I can not honestly say that I have ever noticed any real HP or fuel mileage gains with naturally aspirated engines. Sounded meaner and so the psychological impact translates to "IT'S GOTTA HAVE MORE POWER CAUSE IT SOUNDS MEANER". If anything maybe the engine can rpm up quicker. Now my 7.3 L turbo charged diesel I think (key word "I THINK") did benefit from a K&N type filter and a new cold air box. But I am also running a tuner on that engine. The tuner really makes the difference. I can pull a 5000 pound trailer up a 6% grade at 65 mph and the truck itself weighs 10,000 pounds empty. Sure would like to see some real world dyno tests with and without a K&N type filter on the 22 and V6 engines. Heck just going up a hill with an empty fuel tank as opposed to a full fuel tank will increase HP to the rear wheels. Here is K&N web page for the 22's http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=33-2009 Now the V6 is a different story if you install complete kit 3.3 HP gain http://www.knfilters.com/search/appsearch.aspx?type=all&year=1991&make=TOYOTA&model=4 Runner&engine=3.0L
  11. Snailmailtrucker has requested that his account here be removed. Done
  12. OK all I am going to make this a sticky. There is a ton of things we can possibly do to the 22 and V6 engines and drive trains for MPG and HP/Torque gains. There are big differences between the 22 and V6 transmissions, 22 no locking torque converter (except 22re turbo) and V6 has a locking torque converter. Here is a list. Air filters Cold air intake systems Spark plugs Higher voltage coils Larger exhaust including catalytic converters Camshafts Engine oil and additives Transmission coolers Larger radiators Tire sizes Rear end gear ratio changes Actual MPG numbers. We are not all in Kansas where it is flat forever! Don't forget weight, coach length and cargo. Sure I missed something. Have at it, all opinions and scientific facts need apply. Oh, forgot one thing, drafting behind an 18 wheeler, it does work!
  13. Not sure about the bite mark scenario. Unless that piece of line was factory formed into a bend it could just be that it deteriorated and cracked on the outside of the bend where the rubber stretches when bent looking like bite marks. Have a mechanic look at it. Keep in mind an insurance adjuster gets paid not to pay if possible. It seems more common for rodents to chew on wires than rubber. My neighbor just recently had something chew up the engine wire harness on his Toyota pickup, still does not run right. I had a rodent build a nest on top of my engine when on a camping trip. When I tried to remove the nest it popped out stood on it's back legs and squeaking and hissing at me then jumped off the side of the motor. I thought all was well. Drove 30 miles up the road, opened the hood and there it was alive and well on top the engine building a new nest. Anyhow did you find any rat turds or turds of any kind? Rodents are constantly dropping those things. If it runs it is not totaled, just needs a bit of TLC!
  14. The problem with what everyone calls the bad axle is actually the application of dual wheels. That extra wheel creates allot of leverage flexing the axle at the bearing. Replace the dual setup with a single wheel and the leverage problem goes away. Weight is still a factor though. You have to have your rig weighed, you need to know how much weight each wheel is supporting. Our 86 18ft sunrader was not light. If I remember just under 7000 pounds loaded. The original axle that came from the factory on what ever year pickup is what the bad axle is. It is only bad though because of the duals and weight. If the rear is heavier than what the stock axle was designed to carry then you must go with a full floating rear axle.
  15. Don't forget the "Axle Facts", link at top of page and here