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  • Most Recent Three Posts

    • Hey JaySam,

      I meant installing 2 more braces in the overhead-bunk area.

      In the 18' Back-dinette model, with solid (new) flooring, the bath and shower-stall seemed to support my middle-ceiling well. I went with wood bracing in the bunk area, but now I'm spoiled by the great resilience in the back and, in hindsight, I wish I'd gone the extra-mile up front too. Just a personal fabrication quality thing.

       

      On the other,

      I fiber-glassed the end-plates to the wall. (photo below) I used alternating random and oriented weave cloth over the plate, as advised by my friend who owns a fiberglass construction company.

       

      My last confession, on the screw thing, as an obscessed yard-sale engineer, is that I machine tapped the screw holes for stainless machine screws in backing plates for everything that mounts from the outside of the coach. (top vent photo only) I did the ladder, stove vent top racks, LPG port, Wtr Htr port etc. I have no regrets, particularly when I have a repair or maintenance to do, and everything screws back together nice and smooth and tight, time after time.  After initially tapping 10 or so holes by hand, I discovered that with two drill guns, I could drill the hole through the backing aluminum with one drill, then lube the tap bit I had mounted in the other drill gun and, at slow speed, carefully tap about 1 hole per each minute or so.  Again, just my method, not for everybody. Hope this helps,  TG

      Brace end.JPG

      Port.JPG

    • 1984 Nissan Sunrader.   Need to get a new fuel pump but I'll be darned if I can figure out the correct part. It's on a 1984 Nissan 720, 2.4.  I ordered the one PartsGeek recommends,  but it came and was obviously not the same. 

       

      Mine is mounted right next to gas tank easily visible from passenger side.  Fuel filter sits right next to it.   

       

      Any help greatly appreciated. 

    • I recently repaired the floor in my 85 Sunrader, but the plywood pieces I added do not line up flush and the floor is not flat. Does anyone have a recommendation on how to level and flatten the floor? So far my ideas are to glue and screw down more wood, build up the low spots and then plane it back down to flush and flat, but that seems like a lot of work. My other idea is to use a epoxy fairing compound to build up the low spots and then sand flat and level but am concerned about the vibration and movement from driving down the road. I'm trying to flatten this surface as opposed to adding another layer of ply to even it out because head room is a scarce commodity! I want to just lay peel and stick tile on top of this surface. Any advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

      Thanks, Jay

       

       

       

      20200121_113208.jpg

      20200121_114944.jpg

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