Most Recent Three Posts
13 hours ago, Cynxing said:
Ck engine light went on again. Back to 4 & 5 codes. Just wonderful.
Also, I'm still feeling an intermittent hesitation shudder at about 30 mph. I guess I need to learn how to remove and check the injectors myself if this is going to keep on.
Going back to the boonies tomorrow - Dolphin permitting.
Now that you have truly reset the ECU you know your codes are real. You can remove the injectors if you like but how do you figure you are going to check them? Do they squat ? Yes. how is the pattern? Well they squart. If I recall the fuel rail holds the injectors in and they are "O" ringed meaning it will be real hard to even see what they are doing. Fuel pressure is important also it needs to be about 35 psi anything much lower or higher will cause problems that will affect the O2 sensor. You know the codes and TPS is new I kind of hate to say this but you need to check the wiring from the ECU to the TPS a bad injector may affect your O2 sensor output but not the TPS. The O2 sensor is a easy check is makes voltage in the 0 to around 1 volt range. With the engine warm and running at idle the voltage should vary and swing from high to low and back again. If it's lazy and not actively going from high to low it's bad.
Ok you are back to square one19 hours ago, Cynxing said:
Ok Sports Fans, I completely removed the battery and cleaned up all of the old corrosion from before lurking underneath and on the hold down bar. Then I noticed that the new battery terminal I got for the positive side of the battery had an N on it. Why? Yes, I see that the post on positive is 3/8 and the negative is 5/16, but the threaded bit I needed was the correct size on the one labelled N. Doubtful that it would be any different (both cast lead with brass wing nuts) I dutifully put on the one labelled P. I had to use the smaller threaded bolt.
Not sure if the disconnect from the battery or the dumb terminal was at fault, but there are now no codes flashing. Later today I'm going to Costco and we'll see if they kick in when I actually drive.
Just a little hint the positive post is always bigger on every automotive battery and the bolt on the removable cables is larger on the positive side it's really has nothing to do with the way it works but it does make it easier to ID the cables to avoid reversing them. Usually the negative cable won't fit on the positive bolt if everything is done right. I really see no sense having removable cables on the truck battery that's usually for batteries that are removable to charge or store them but if it works don't fix it..
My GPS will tell me where the gas is and generally it's not an option of where I spend money it's more about running out of gas!