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My mechanic tells me I need new tires at 138.00 a piece!


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Hello all,

I just purchased an 86 Toyota Seabreeze and the alternator went on the way home and it cost me 700.00 in tow bills so far. Now I got this thing at the mechanic and he tells me the tires have dry rot but look great and I need to put 6 new tires on it at 138.00 per tire. He says P195/75/R14 with an 8 ply is what I need and that there are only 20 available in the country and he knows where they are. Is there a cheaper alternative? I also need new breaks and rotors all the way around. ANy help would be greatly appreciated......

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Correct size is 185/14LT. Note there is no aspect ratio in the tire size cause its an old design and there weren't low profiles then.

Here are some http://www.tirerack....o=0&diameter=14

The C range tire are normally considered "6ply" and the D range/102-100 are "8ply".

The VW vanagon camper uses the same tire and their having good luck with the Hankook RA-08 http://www.busdepot.com/ra08

These are "fresh tires" and there a lot more than 20 in the country.

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Yes listen to WME. The right 185/r14 tires are available all over the country for less. If you have a Discount Tire or America's Tire store near you they will match online prices if you take a print out. Takes them a couple of days to get them. Good luck but tires are so important you will be glad you did.

Linda S

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Thanks guys! Your pretty sure the 185/r14 is what i need and i dont even have to ask what ply they are when i order them? Because I am calling a few local places and they are telling me they are 4 ply. 4 ply isnt good is it?

Edited by gr8white
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6 ply and 8 ply are ratings that are obsolete 2 times over, load range C and D are obsolete 1 time over . The currant rating system is "load index" and you will want some in the 97-99 (c range, 6 ply) or 100-102 ( d range, 8 ply)

It depends on how long the guy has been selling tires as to what he will call them

BUT you must specify LT (light truck) tires and the load rating you want or you will end up with car tires

Some of the tires will be marked 185/14 LT and some will be marked as a 185/14 C, in this case the C is not the load rating but means Commercial. AKA Light Truck

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i just bought a brand new nexon tire still said 8 ply rated load range d right on it also marked L T for light truck. i run 8ply rated load range d on the moterhome. and load range c wich i think are only 6 ply rated on my 1988 4wd xtra cab. as w me says be shure you dont get car tires.they are not safe.

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Make sure the place you buy tires from will beat any price, then go on line and find something like "Hankook RA08 185/R14" . I found them on line for $82 each. Printed the screen shot, went to Discount Tires, and they matched that price. 7 tires, out the door for just under $700.

As for brakes, Maybe, Maybe not, unless your mechanicaly inclined, your at the mercy of the mechanic.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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... he tells me the tires have dry rot but look great and I need to put 6 new tires on it at 138.00 per tire. He says P195/75/R14 with an 8 ply is what I need and that there are only 20 available in the country and he knows where they are.

It doesn't sound like your mechanic is on your side. With the BS from him about the size, cost and quantity in the country, I'd even wonder if the even need replacing!! How do they look to you?

Also, don't let him (or anyone else) screw you by installing trailer tires.

I think I'd also try and look for another mechanic.

Good luck.

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I just got screwed by town fair tire. Asked for 8ply truck tires and told them dont break the lugs. They ended up breaking them, then called me and said i have to take it home {drive or tow} and get tire removed new lugs installed and then bring it back for that tire. Got Mastercraft 6ply tires and i complained and they said tires can hold that weight. 1000lbs each. Im pissed

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The tires that are "rated" 8 ply that does not mean they have 8 ply's only they have the rating of an 8 ply they are as strong and generate less heat. If you had all day to sit down and read your tires there is more information there then you would ever need to know.

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If your doing the brakes yourself, I would pull the hubs first and see what you really need.

I'll be honest, I've never replaced a hub or rotor. (I have seen a cracked rotor, I would replace that ).. Yes, I know, a nice flat surface would extend pad life (Depends how badly grooved or cupped the rotor / hub is), but I can buy a lot of pads for the cost of a Rotor. As for stopping performance, I doubt seriously you'll find any difference between a nice new rotor and a rotor that's grooved or cupped.. If its glazed - i.e. epoxy from pads is burnt onto the rotor, use sandpaper or brush wheel to remove the glaze, OR treat yourself to having the rotors turned.

Pull the rear hubs and inspect the shoes, if they appear brittle (or worn) replace them. Pads on the front disks are the same, if they appear brittle or worn, then replace.

Take a lot of photos as you take apart the rear hub. make sure you have new seals, as you should replace them. I'm assuming you have a full floating rear axle. Scroll down on the Rear Brake link and youl find a photo with a list of part numbers.

This is also a good time to make sure you have the correct tire jack (I use a 4 ton bottle jack) and lug wrench.

Front Brakes

Rear Brakes

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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Thanks Waiter. But how do I find out the breaks and rotors that I need for my particular rv without pulling them off first so I can shop for them? You gave me a list of part numbers but is it the same for my RV as yours? Also, I want to post a pic of my axle here to see if I have the defective one. How do I do that:?

Edited by gr8white
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Not sure if you have a retrofit or not. Are your wheels 5 or 6 lug, Go to your auto parts store and tell them its a 1 ton, dual wheel rear axle, with 6 lugs.

Photo - You need to use the "Advanced Editor". Look below and to the right of the "Reply to this topic", you'll see a "More Reply Options" click on that to use the "Advanced Editor".

When the Advanced Editor opens, you see a "Attach Files" dialog near the bottom.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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On our 91 Dolphin the rear brake cyclinders were leaking onto the drum so we replaced everything, poss overkill there, but if you are gonna take the rear assy apart I sure would replace the cyclinders, not that expensive. Ours had 86k miles on it and the shoes were about half worn down and might be usable with enough brake cleen, but that stuff's really toxic.

vanman

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That axle is the full floating type. Are your front wheels the same?

Brake job is fairly easy on the front and back. Repack the bearings on all four wheels so you know your good. You'll need to do this on the rear to look at the shoes, also replace the seals.

One of the problems with these old houses is lack of use and age. a lot of the rubber hoses, seals, etc are dry. plus MHs have a habit of sitting and no maintenance being done.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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BEWARE with the 6 hand hole rims there is a 80% possibility that you have LEFT hand threads on the drivers side rear.

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Hello 85mirage,

Regarding your tires, if you paid with a credit card give the credit card company a call and tell them you want to stop/reverse payment due to damage done to your vehicle and bait and switch, that is they installed parts (tires) that you did not authorize. The credit card company will immediately stop/reverse payment and they will contact the tire place asking them to explain why they should receive the payment. If the tire company does not respond in a timely matter they will not receive any payment. You want 8-ply load range D tires, they should hold 1,600 to 1,800lbs each, depending on brand.

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I think that is a minimum rating, but I was low in my 1600 number for load range D. Regarding a minimum rating, my Goodyear

Wranger HT 185R14 load range C tires are rated 1710 single, 1610 dual at 50psi.

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I assume those numbers are what's printed/molded on the side of your Wrangler HT tires. I'm not sure what Standard that follows. Everything I've ever seen published are what I posted above. But yes, I neglected to mention the 'discount' for DRW applications.

Edit: Goodyear doesn't appear to offer any 14" Wrangler HTs any more.

http://www.tirerack....del=Wrangler HT

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Hi guys thanks for the help on the tires. I am researching and buying this week. If anyone has a good website with a good price please let me know. Also, I am still not sure on the brakes. I am not sure what kind I need to get. Anyone have any advice on this?

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Hi,

From my persepective, I would say one thing to you, if you are driving with poor brakes you are putting your life, those of your family and any one else in your path in harm's way. These rigs are heavy, and stopping should be the first order of business.

If you are uncertain about the mechanic's ability or performance find someone who knows what they are doing. In connection with this, if your tires are older than seven years, they are due to be replaced. You can confirm the date of manufacturer by reading the date code and confirm that with the manufacturer. The thinking is that is you have old tires, and poor brakes, you are setting yourself up to failure. Insurance companies will, when involved in claims and liabilities action will look at these factors to assign blame and liability. You have the accident, even if you did not cause it you may end paying for your portion in the payment claims. It is always too late after the fact.

Brian

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Brian, Im not sure what you are referring to. I am not driving this RV until the repairs are done. I ordered 6 new 8 ply tires which will be put on next week. I will putting all new brakes and rotors on as well next week. I am having a hard time finding what brakes to get. Im sure I can take the tires off and look but I am trying to do the brakes and tires all at once. I asked on here a few times but cant seem to find the answer as far as what brakes and rotors I need. As far as the mechanic. He ended up holding my vehicle hostage until I paid him 500.00 for the instalation of my alternator. Does anyone know what rights I have when a mechanic rips me off? Thanks!

Edited by gr8white
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If your mechanic really did rip you off call the state attorney general's office of consumer protection. I believe most states have one. They will investigate the situation and help you to resolve it. It scares the bejeesus out of the rip off guys to have those folks calling them on the phone.

Excellent! Thank you Karin

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  • 2 weeks later...

What does your front rims look like? 86 was a transition year, you may have the 1 ton DRW front hubs or you may have the regular hubs.

Here are some pictures from the web:

Regular (non Dual Rear Wheel or DRW)

55774134_2.jpg

Or the DRW front:

100_2954.jpg

The rotors and hub's are different, possibly the calipers too.

Toyota2wdhub_zps37e729bb.jpg

Andrew.

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You are replacing the brakes on a one ton Toyota pickup, not a Dolphin or Sunrader or whatever motorhome. You do need to know the year of the chassis that the motorhome is built on however. My '88 Escaper is built on a '87 Toyota chassis. The parts for the truck will be 1987 for mine.

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