Maineah

When you cross the 2.8KW line the generators jump up to the 100 LB + range that is also a factor to consider.

WME is spot on propane is the way to go it is easy to deal with and very clean and efficient you can carry a huge amount of energy in a 20# propane tank enough to make a battery bank look puny. There are some very nice DC refrigerator units with a nice big price tag to match. Most are a chest type and take up a lot of floor space. The propane gas fridge works very well and makes no noise.

Well with out all the details it's still close to 40 amps per hour he also so has a lot more room for batteries. I run a Fantastic fan in the roof vent and as the day cools I am able to get by on low speed On high speed it draws 3 amps. This also is in a 17' full size camper the 100 watt solar panel alone will run it. An inverter generator is different than a cheap generator, a normal generator has to run 3600 RPM to make 60 cycles so it never slows down a inverter generator speed is on demand so when the load is low it turns a great deal slower and the big plus it is a great deal quieter.

I would kind of be curious as to why it split like that or maybe I really didn't want to know!

Ok because it has 6 lugs it does not mean it's a full floating axle. The full floaters had the axle protruding from the center of the wheel with several small bolts holding it in place the big difference is the axle on a full floatier has nothing to do with the holding the vehicle up. My Tacoma has a 6 bolt wheel but not a floating axle.

Lucas, AKA the Prince of darkness.

With the fake dualies the outside wheel actually makes the problem worse because it places greater leverage on the drive axle and when they break it's not a pretty sight. With the real duel wheels the drive axle does not support the the vehicle weight.

Ok you kind of lost me the max air thing draws 4K watts? That at 12 volts is over 300 amps from the batteries. It is factor of 10 from 120 house voltage to 12 volts DC (more or less). With some thing like an Air conditioner you also need to think about inrush current (start current) also it can be massive. I'm all in for solar I have a 100 watt panel home built frame that I can elevate and turn it folds flat in transit and two batteries. The 100 watts will charge the batteries but my current demand is low. The light bulbs in a MH or camper draw a great deal of power my camper had 13 glass bulbs with them all on it drew 23 amps from the batteries! They now are all led's with a current draw of 3.3 amps. In your case it would be cheaper and more efficient to buy a nice little inverter generator if you need to take your house with you.

They are amazingly tough transmissions. The biggest issues were the tail stock bushings waring out and trashing the governor bore. If you are clueless about automatics step away from the transmission it's not a real good back yard job for a novice.

There are hundreds of thousands of decks out there with the same screws 10 years on including my 21 year old deck and they improve every few years. Look for the green screws with a Torx drive head. One of my old campers is still in use with the PT wood rebuilt door I rebuilt in 1998 as is my Nova Star from 8 years ago and my present camper has a 5 year old PT rebuilt door constructed with PT and deck screws. Camper door are cheaply built soft wood with zero water proofing with butt joints my rebuilt's are all mitered joints that makes them much less flexible. PT is low grade wood you need to find the least knotty they will have to be ripped to size any way so they is going to be waste some of the boards maybe be as much as 50% but done right will out last the RV.

Standard starter wire gauge is a #4 wire why down grad to a #8? Those starters were pretty good the early gear reduction starters did have issues with the internal starter relay burning the contacts inside the starter very common. This of course increased the current demand leading to poor cranking or just a click. Here is what they looked like, ebay.com/p/664903917?iid=183335442973 much cheaper than an external relay. It does require removing the starter and some basic knowledge. Because the problem is at the starter it's self a jump pack charger etc. will increase the current flow to it and in some cases would be enough over come the poor contact issue but eventually they would burn to the point of no start even with two batteries. I can't begin to tell you how many of those kits I installed years ago. Toyota eventually addressed this and produced upgraded starters.

I kind of remember two ground points from the negative cable one went directly to the body work the other to the engine block. There was a joint close to the battery. As far as the starter just bolting it up should be fine two bolts and wide opening should be more then enough. Remember these things are OLD things happen. I also kind of remember a short ground cable from the frame across to the engine mount and that caused some interesting things.

All though the starters are designed to operate down to 10 volts weak batteries voltage will nose dive quickly under load. The other side of this is the forgotten negative side of the equation the starter needs a good ground and that does not mean just at the battery it is a high current demand that may have little effect on small current loads lights etc.

Good one!

Yeah it was a feeble attempt to deal with emissions. The RE's didn't seem to be prone to that problem when they went to fuel injection.

If it doesn't start it is one thing if it doesn't crank it is another. The older gear reduction starters had issues with a copper disk inside of the starter it would just click and do nothing. That is repairable fairly simply.

The AC seal serves two purposes one to keep water out of the camper the other is noise reduction sitting directly on the roof it sounds like a freight train. The seals start life at an inch or more in thickness and are good for maybe 5 years max before they flatten. There is a piece that comes with the gasket that looks like some thing you would throw away it is rectangular the same thickness as the gasket it fit under the long side of the AC unit.

The "E" is German for Enispritzung or fuel injection (of any type from diesel to electronic) why the Japanese picked that I have no ideal!

Behind the seal is the oil pump be sure to replace the sealing ring on the pump it is subjected to full oil pressure adds about 15 minutes to the job and makes it easier to replace the crank seal.

I will say if it's green it's worth fixing. The Kohler's were quite noisy among other things the (green) Onan's were nice units.

Bottom line no.

These are old enough to have R22 that is made from unobtanium. Unless it's a big AC unit it's not going to refrigerate a camper any way cool to some extent maybe cold no. My New Horizon had one it worked but not like a car or home AC.

Well I'm glad you figured it out because the previous owner was clueless! It says here in the fine print that plugged into the world it should do two things, charge your battery and power your outlets. Once the battery is charged you can unplug and still have lights but no outlets.

Google Maxair fan problems. I think the simple ones are very good fans I have one it has a rain sensor and reverses that works well and moves a lot of air it is a 3 speed no frills unit. What bothers me is the added voltage regulator to a 10 speed unit we are dealing with battery voltage most fan cover a wide range of battery voltage and really don't care, if it's low they tend to run a bit slower if it's high they run a little faster not big deal so the regulator is more about protecting the gadget part then the fan. Camping should be simple.

Why is a new clutch slipping in the first place? Here is the deal if the clutch cylinder has an adjustable push rod it is improperly adjusted it needs to be adjusted there is no clearance hence the clutch is slipping it's the same as having you foot on the clutch peddle part way. Bottom line if the clutch is new some thing else is wrong. I have seen clutch disks installed backwards but that creates a totally different issue you can't get it into gear! There are very few stepped flywheels and a serious pain to machine Toyota is not one of them. Years ago I had a customer that managed to burn up a clutch in two days a dead give away was the smell he of course he didn't abusing it. When a clutch is replaced the new one because of it's thickness will force a hydraulic slave cylinder to be pushed deeper into the bore often bottoming out from improper adjustment again it produces the same result as having the peddle manually pushed part way in.