Generator won't run AC

[WME]

Back to AC's.

Not within your budget, but there is new technology ($$$$) out and should be more affordable in a few years. Hybrid Inverters. They let you run a big AC with a small generator and a normal sized RV house battery.

The generator powers the AC when its running, the generator AND the battery combine to make enough power to start the AC. So a 2000w generator would have enough power to run an 13,500 btu AC.

[linda s]

OK I need the blah blah crap to stop. Same people arguing about the same stuff. To top it off one of you who is part of the blah blah filed 2 reports because they didn't like someone else's comment. Just because Derek and I are moderators doesn't mean we want to do anything and taking care of reported posts takes my time. We have a message system that you can use to insult them directly all you want and the rest of us don't need to hear about it. Yes you can post your opinion of course but none of us want to hear you go on about it endlessly. I can change all your names to Stamar

Linda S

[Derek up North]

Enough already! I'm way too many years out of High School for this.

[Maineah]

14 hours ago, WME said:

Back to AC's.

Not within your budget, but there is new technology ($$$$) out and should be more affordable in a few years. Hybrid Inverters. They let you run a big AC with a small generator and a normal sized RV house battery.

The generator powers the AC when its running, the generator AND the battery combine to make enough power to start the AC. So a 2000w generator would have enough power to run an 13,500 btu AC.

Here is one http://www.aislu.com/documents/MSD_rvairconditioner.pdf

[Totem]

10 minutes ago, Maineah said:

Here is one http://www.aislu.com/documents/MSD_rvairconditioner.pdf

220 VAC though. impressive gadget nonetheless.

[WME]

That's a new style compressor , designed to reduce power requirements.

This is what I was talking about. http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/product-inverter/3000w-12vdc-pure-sine-hybrid-inverter-charger-msh-series

Large Class A folks are using them so that they can run both their 15,000btu AC at the same time off a 30 amp service or a 4kw generator.  How depressing having such a problem must be

 

 

[Totem]

58 minutes ago, WME said:

That's a new style compressor , designed to reduce power requirements.

This is what I was talking about. http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/product-inverter/3000w-12vdc-pure-sine-hybrid-inverter-charger-msh-series

Large Class A folks are using them so that they can run both their 15,000btu AC at the same time off a 30 amp service or a 4kw generator.  How depressing having such a problem must be

 

 

Ahh yes, this (or something remarkably similar)  was in the video I posted in the 2016 generator challenge thread, whereby guy was using device like this as an inverter while using a lessor generator and battery bank to feed it as hybrid inputs.

 

[WME]

1 hour ago, Totem said:

Ahh yes, this (or something remarkably similar)  was in the video I posted in the 2016 generator challenge thread, whereby guy was using device like this as an inverter while using a lessor generator and battery bank to feed it as hybrid inputs.

 

Yea that video was what got me to do some research on the Hybrid stuff. But next video you got to find a better producer, that guy was a clueless clown.

[zero]

1 hour ago, WME said:

That's a new style compressor , designed to reduce power requirements.

This is what I was talking about. http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/product-inverter/3000w-12vdc-pure-sine-hybrid-inverter-charger-msh-series

 

I don't see any big advantage to the "new compressor" or the hybrid inverter. Maybe I'm missing something?

The AC unit with the new-fangled variable speed compressor uses exactly the same power to make the same BTUs of cooling as a conventional unit like a Coleman Mach III.  The new one uses 12 amps to make 13.5K BTUs of cooling.  The Coleman uses 12.1 amps to make 13.5K BTUs of cooling.  Yes, I understand the possible gain in comfort or easier starting of having variable speed - but I suspect it is not much.  Same goes for a heating-furnace in a house and one has "on" and "off" while the other has a variable speed blower.  Comfort level can be a little better controlled but power use is the same.

As far as the "hyrbrid" inverter goes? I'm lost with that one too. Maybe it's in the wording in the description.  It says "most inverters only use one source of energy to power loads."   OK, I already disagree. An inverter has one DC input, yes.  But we are free to hook into multiple DC power sources - like the alternator of the engine in an RV, the batteries, solar panels, etc.   It goes on to say it combines the energy from "shore power" and a generator.  OK.  What does that have to do with any inversion process?  It sounds more like they are selling an inverter that is attached to an extra device that is an alternating-current input combiner.  I have a combo 2400 watt inverter/charger that is 20 years old and allows me to hook in both shore  power and a generator.   NOT something new.  Why would you want to run a generator if you have shore power?   Also, why would anyone want to charge a battery with an inverter that is using a battery to get its power?

The MSH-M Series Inverter / Charger from Magnum Energy – a pure sine wave inverter designed with true hybrid technology allowing it to run larger loads from smaller generators.

Hybrid technology: Most inverters only use one source of energy to power loads, either from incoming AC power – shore or AC generator – or from the batteries. The MSH-M Series combines the energy from both sources to power loads. This allows the inverter to recharge the batteries when there is surplus power or deliver more power to the loads if they require more than the AC input can supply by itself.

[Totem]

12 minutes ago, jdemaris said:

I don't see any big advantage to the "new compressor" or the hybrid inverter. Maybe I'm missing something?

The AC unit with the new-fangled variable speed compressor uses exactly the same power to make the same BTUs of cooling as a conventional unit like a Coleman Mach III.  The new one uses 12 amps to make 13.5K BTUs of cooling.  The Coleman uses 12.1 amps to make 13.5K BTUs of cooling.  Yes, I understand the possible gain in comfort or easier starting of having variable speed - but I suspect it is not much.  Same goes for a heating-furnace in a house and one has "on" and "off" while the other has a variable speed blower.  Comfort level can be a little better controlled but power use is the same.

As far as the "hyrbrid" inverter goes? I'm lost with that one too. Maybe it's in the wording in the description.  It says "most inverters only use one source of energy to power loads."   OK, I already disagree. An inverter has one DC input, yes.  But we are free to hook into multiple DC power sources - like the alternator of the engine in an RV, the batteries, solar panels, etc.   It goes on to say it combines the energy from "shore power" and a generator.  OK.  What does that have to do with any inversion process?  It sounds more like they are selling an inverter that is attached to an extra device that is an alternating-current input combiner.  I have a combo 2400 watt inverter/charger that is 20 years old and allows me to hook in both shore  power and a generator.   NOT something new.  Why would you want to run a generator if you have shore power?   Also, why would anyone want to charge a battery with an inverter that is using a battery to get its power?

The MSH-M Series Inverter / Charger from Magnum Energy – a pure sine wave inverter designed with true hybrid technology allowing it to run larger loads from smaller generators.

Hybrid technology: Most inverters only use one source of energy to power loads, either from incoming AC power – shore or AC generator – or from the batteries. The MSH-M Series combines the energy from both sources to power loads. This allows the inverter to recharge the batteries when there is surplus power or deliver more power to the loads if they require more than the AC input can supply by itself.

But what if one source is a generator with AC at 120 vac, and one is 24 volt battery bank in series, with yet another as a solar array at 200 watts? your inverter can do all that?

[zero]

2 minutes ago, Totem said:

But what if one source is a generator with AC at 120 vac, and one is 24 volt battery bank in series, with yet another as a solar array at 200 watts? your inverter can do all that?

There is no such thing on the planet. I think you have your terms mixed up.  An inverter "inverts" or "oscillates.  Most inverters also step-up input power with a large step-up transformer.    They have nothing to do with other AC power sources.  An "inverter" IS an AC power source. It creates a sine-wave by inversion, thus the name.   If you are speaking of a device that  - creates AC power from DC, and also combines other AC power sources - you are talking about two different devices packaged together.   And yes, my 20 year old Trace inverter/charger does the same thing and I guess more.  Mine also has a built-in 100 amp battery charger.  Technically it is an inverter/charger/power-combiner. NOT an "inverter."

[WME]

OK this technology is not a Mr. Fusion to run your flux capacitor. It is a CRUTCH to get you through a short term power shortage.

You have an AC power source, generator or shore power, that is to small to run a large short term load (starting a BIG A/C unit). All these do is borrow the extra needed power from a battery. After the need for extra power goes away the inverter stops using the battery. 

The shore power is a feed through, the inverter syncs the 12 inversion power to the feed through and your 3000w AC input becomes a 6000w AC output. After the short term need goes away the inverter turns back into a charger for the battery, IF there is enough power available. A solar panel can charge the battery with out having anything to with hybrid inverter. With out shore power it acts like a normal inverter and draws all its power from the battery and you have 3000w of power.

If you speak binary think of the older inverters as an OR gate, you have AC power or battery power. The hybrids are AND gate, they combine shore and battery power. 

Edited August 19, 2016 by WME

[zero]

35 minutes ago, Totem said:

But what if one source is a generator with AC at 120 vac, and one is 24 volt battery bank in series, with yet another as a solar array at 200 watts? your inverter can do all that?

You kind of lost me .  All an inverter does is take DC power and turn it into AC power with a wave form that simulates the 60 Hertz Cycle (at least here in the USA).  Many inverters are actually combination step-up transformers and inverters but are usually just called "inverters."   

My old Trace-Xantrex inverter/charger (note is is NOT just an inverter) certainly allows me to wire in a generator and shore power.
If I had a 24 volt battery bank - then the actual inverter part of this "package" would need to be a Trace model 2424.  E.g. made to accept a 24 volt input.
If I also wanted to wire in a 200 watt solar panel - yes, no problem at all. Just stick a 24 volt controller on it an wire into the DC input of the inverter.

Note - I said before my Trace is 20 years old. I checked my records and I bought it 15 years ago.  Not sure when they first came out.  Here is some info on it.  

[Totem]

1 minute ago, jdemaris said:

You kind of lost me .  All an inverter does is take DC power and turn it into AC power with a wave form that simulates the 60 Hertz Cycle (at least here in the USA).  Many inverters are actually combination step-up transformers and inverters but are usually just called "inverters."   

My old Trace-Xantrex inverter/charger (note is is NOT just an inverter) certainly allows me to wire in a generator and shore power.
If I had a 24 volt battery bank - then the actual inverter part of this "package" would need to be a Trace model 2424.  E.g. made to accept a 24 volt input.
If I also wanted to wire in a 200 watt solar panel - yes, no problem at all. Just stick a 24 volt controller on it an wire into the DC input of the inverter.

Note - I said before my Trace is 20 years old. I checked my records and I bought it 15 years ago.  Not sure when they first came out.  Here is some info on it.  

See the comment from WME for what we mean.

[markwilliam1]

Although I'll never be able to prove it per Totems generator challenge rule as I haven't the ability to video my AC running in my rig while driving. I'm alone. So I have my Honda 2000i mounted on the extended bumper. I have an 11K Dometic Penguin roof top AC  installed in 1999. My honda 2000i ran my roof air flawlessly while driving in 90 and above degrees & 100% humidity in S. Ohio this week. Steep hills but not mountains and I don't know the elevation. I installed the expensive ($50) Dometic brand hard start capacitor. The Honda was able to run the AC in Eco mode. Very quiet! The Honda would rev up briefly when the AC compressor kicked on then settle back in quiet Eco mode and kept my entire rig cool while driving. Never overloaded. I have a broken cab AC and wanted the Honda to keep me and my dogs cool while traveling. The mighty little Honda 2000i has worked perfectly for me so far. Had to close off the upper bunk area and close the rear vents on the AC unit so the cold air could get to the cab area. Next test will be the W. Virginia mountains. I wouldn't expect it to run a 13K AC (but who needs that much for our small rigs) or work while climbing the Rockies. Good Luck!

[Back East Don]

2 minutes ago, markwilliam1 said:

Although I'll never be able to prove it per Totems generator challenge rule as I haven't the ability to video my AC running in my rig while driving. I'm alone. So I have my Honda 2000i mounted on the extended bumper. I have an 11K Dometic Penguin roof top AC  installed in 1999. My honda 2000i ran my roof air flawlessly while driving in 90 and above degrees & 100% humidity in S. Ohio this week. Steep hills but not mountains and I don't know the elevation. I installed the expensive ($50) Dometic brand hard start capacitor. The Honda was able to run the AC in Eco mode. Very quiet! The Honda would rev up briefly when the AC compressor kicked on then settle back in quiet Eco mode and kept my entire rig cool while driving. Never overloaded. I have a broken cab AC and wanted the Honda to keep me and my dogs cool while traveling. The mighty little Honda 2000i has worked perfectly for me so far. Had to close off the upper bunk area and close the rear vents on the AC unit so the cold air could get to the cab area. Next test will be the W. Virginia mountains. I wouldn't expect it to run a 13K AC (but who needs that much for our small rigs) or work while climbing the Rockies. Good Luck!

All right, I'll ask before Totem does.  Who are you really coming here and pretending to be some guy named Mark?

I said you've already won if it works for you.  Good thing this isn't Totems post so his rules don't apply here.  Won't stop him however.

If that is all it takes, I'm just going to start my own posts and make up my own rules from now on.  Should get interesting.

[Maineah]

6 hours ago, jdemaris said:

I don't see any big advantage to the "new compressor" or the hybrid inverter. Maybe I'm missing something?

The AC unit with the new-fangled variable speed compressor uses exactly the same power to make the same BTUs of cooling as a conventional unit like a Coleman Mach III.  The new one uses 12 amps to make 13.5K BTUs of cooling.  The Coleman uses 12.1 amps to make 13.5K BTUs of cooling.  Yes, I understand the possible gain in comfort or easier starting of having variable speed - but I suspect it is not much.  Same goes for a heating-furnace in a house and one has "on" and "off" while the other has a variable speed blower.  Comfort level can be a little better controlled but power use is the same.

As far as the "hyrbrid" inverter goes? I'm lost with that one too. Maybe it's in the wording in the description.  It says "most inverters only use one source of energy to power loads."   OK, I already disagree. An inverter has one DC input, yes.  But we are free to hook into multiple DC power sources - like the alternator of the engine in an RV, the batteries, solar panels, etc.   It goes on to say it combines the energy from "shore power" and a generator.  OK.  What does that have to do with any inversion process?  It sounds more like they are selling an inverter that is attached to an extra device that is an alternating-current input combiner.  I have a combo 2400 watt inverter/charger that is 20 years old and allows me to hook in both shore  power and a generator.   NOT something new.  Why would you want to run a generator if you have shore power?   Also, why would anyone want to charge a battery with an inverter that is using a battery to get its power?

The MSH-M Series Inverter / Charger from Magnum Energy – a pure sine wave inverter designed with true hybrid technology allowing it to run larger loads from smaller generators.

Hybrid technology: Most inverters only use one source of energy to power loads, either from incoming AC power – shore or AC generator – or from the batteries. The MSH-M Series combines the energy from both sources to power loads. This allows the inverter to recharge the batteries when there is surplus power or deliver more power to the loads if they require more than the AC input can supply by itself.

Other than the mini splits it has not produced any RV AC stuff that I have seen yet but it's coming Mini splits are all over Asia and Europe in MH's. They "soft start" slowly ramping up the voltage not an instant hard push to get them going then modulate the current slowing the compressor instead of cycling. I agree with the ideal of a battery bank to makeup the difference is the wrong approch. For the price of batteries etc. you can buy a bigger generator but if they ever got the tech together with inverter compressors a much small generator will be able to do the job. 

[WME]

When you have the right size generator you can run any A/C. The problem is not enough generator, then the hybrid inverter gives you an edge. You already have a house battery so it not like you have to buy a battery bank.

Perfect no, but it works NOW, not in 5 years.

In 5 years they may have solar A/C working. Right now 1600w of solar and a hybrid inverter will give you a solar A/C.  Someday someone will come up with a 1000w A/C compressor. Then your Honda 1000I will be the real deal.

No hybrid then, 2 choices, bigger generator or smaller A/C, sorry no Unicorn dust to overcome the basic laws of power.

Edited August 20, 2016 by WME

[jjrbus]

4 hours ago, markwilliam1 said:

Although I'll never be able to prove it per Totems generator challenge rule as I haven't the ability to video my AC running in my rig while driving. I'm alone. So I have my Honda 2000i mounted on the extended bumper. I have an 11K Dometic Penguin roof top AC  installed in 1999. My honda 2000i ran my roof air flawlessly while driving in 90 and above degrees & 100% humidity in S. Ohio this week. Steep hills but not mountains and I don't know the elevation. I installed the expensive ($50) Dometic brand hard start capacitor. The Honda was able to run the AC in Eco mode. Very quiet! The Honda would rev up briefly when the AC compressor kicked on then settle back in quiet Eco mode and kept my entire rig cool while driving. Never overloaded. I have a broken cab AC and wanted the Honda to keep me and my dogs cool while traveling. The mighty little Honda 2000i has worked perfectly for me so far. Had to close off the upper bunk area and close the rear vents on the AC unit so the cold air could get to the cab area. Next test will be the W. Virginia mountains. I wouldn't expect it to run a 13K AC (but who needs that much for our small rigs) or work while climbing the Rockies. Good Luck!

You don't have to prove anything, I have run a 13.5k roof air with a little Honda, it is virtually impossible but it happened! 

I have read that the Dometic is a superior capacitor, but have not seen any actual testing or numbers from Dometic.  

[Maineah]

19 hours ago, jjrbus said:

You don't have to prove anything, I have run a 13.5k roof air with a little Honda, it is virtually impossible but it happened! 

I have read that the Dometic is a superior capacitor, but have not seen any actual testing or numbers from Dometic.  

My question would do the people that have an run AC with a Honda 2000 really know what they are running for an AC unit? I suspect it will marginally run a small unit.

[jjrbus]

8 minutes ago, Maineah said:

My question would do the people that have an run AC with a Honda 2000 really know what they are running for an AC unit? I suspect it will marginally run a small unit.

There used to be some 7 and 8k roof airs, from what I have read the smaller gensets could run them with no issues! These have not been manufactured in a long time but there are still a few in use. But most of the reports on running an AC on a small gen set contain no details. 

I suspect your suspicions are right, from what I have read, many that post on this have no idea what size their genset is or what size their roof airs are.  Very frustrating when trying research to make a decision.  Also not giving ambient tempature,   My little Honda runs the 11k roof air fine on a 75° day but not in the 90's.    Jim

[WME]

One more gremlin to throw in the muddle. Minimum and maximum load factors. For short term usage the minimum is 0 and the maximum is rated power. For a longer run and MAXIMUM generator life the factors are 30% minimum and 75% max load of rated power.  So for a 1600/2000w generator running a an A/C for an hour or so no problem, 10 hours a day for 3 days....ummmmm   

Ain't reality wonderful

[Klein]

Posting my experience with trying to run AC since I mainly plan to drycamp. This post is not to discredit the generatir I tried, it is more to save you some time (and try something else) if you have exact setup that I have.

Toyota 1987 Sunrader 210 RD, no mods on electrical (owners gave me every single manual and receipt !)

Duotherm AC 600312-001, 11000BTU, 1.5kw runnig, 2.5kw starting (per manual recommendations at least)

HT Predator 2500w starting, 2200w running 

Supco SPP6 Hard Start Kit

- installed supco spp6 into the start relay per diagram (the black capacitor is the start capacitor for this AC) 

- generator overload and no start after several tries (with breaks in between) at 80F sea level

- AC start normal with SPP6 kit while under power from my house

NOTE: the two capacitors tied together (see photo) are one (smaler) for fan and one (bigger) for running; they are close to motor; the start capacitor is in another area on the side where the start relay is; dont mix them up; see diagram (I have high resolution photos and full instal manual for this unit if interested)

GENERATOR: excellent price, low noise, starts smoothly, lighter and relativ compact for what it does; only negative is it does not start my AC

SUMMARY: if you have exact model of AC and MH I have, do not try this setup, look for something else

Other:

Unfortunately for me buying a new AC makes no sense. I would need a small generator for emergencies only that I can carry in a tote inside the rv(no point of carrying a cargo rack for a gen I don't use). A bigger generator for AC would be nice but the bulk and price ouch

In my case, a small Yamaha would make sense for emergencies and a bigger gen for ocasional need of ac. Unfortunately the combo will get to several thousands $ so I am back to square one on the generator dilema. 

Predator 2500 is excellent but a tad too bulky to store inside for transportation. Else it is ideal, it is on sale at $369.

Good luck in your quest, it seems it is not the generator that is the problem (not too many options anyway) , the darn AC units and electrical setups are the ones that make this quest a nightmare. Generators seem to be relatively the constant while the type, brand of AC and setup seem to be the real make it  or brake it variables.

[WME]

Plan B try it with out the Suppco and with only the Suppco. Listen to the sounds the generator makes. Also the sounds the A/C makes.

Check the voltage on the generator too while it's running and trying to start the A/C

[Klein]

WME, thanks but already did except the voltage measures 

- w/spp6 only w/generator - gen reved up, ac was trying to start (fan worked only), gen overload, ac unit stopped

- w/spp6 only w/house electricity- ac worked fine

- w/original start cap only w/generator - gen reved up, ac trying to start (fan worked only), gen overload, ac unit stopped

- w/original start cap only w/house electricity- ac worked fine

No other consumers turned on in MH in all scenarios but its own electric system that I assume draws some power (Since I notice the generator revs up when I plug in the main power cord)

[Totem]

8 hours ago, Klein said:

WME, thanks but already did except the voltage measures 

- w/spp6 only w/generator - gen reved up, ac was trying to start (fan worked only), gen overload, ac unit stopped

- w/spp6 only w/house electricity- ac worked fine

- w/original start cap only w/generator - gen reved up, ac trying to start (fan worked only), gen overload, ac unit stopped

- w/original start cap only w/house electricity- ac worked fine

No other consumers turned on in MH in all scenarios but its own electric system that I assume draws some power (Since I notice the generator revs up when I plug in the main power cord)

is it straight wired? I ask this because before I bought the power-saver edition coleman mach 1 I was running a 13500 mach 3 standard, the only way i could get it to work was to run a straight line of romex, attach a household plug to the romex and it directly to the generator. This takes out the converter, fridge and any other 12 volt leech draw after doing that, I would follow the following procedure:

• start predator.
• open predator panel and raise up idle more than factory by the idle screw (because the predator is always in "eco mode" this has the effect of spooling the motor so the hit isn't as shocking to it (- i would put the idle back again when not using AC)
• go in rv and start fan. let fan run for at least 20 secs
• turn thermostat all the way to hot
• turn on AC to cold (this will energize the cap but not make a call for cooling because thermostat is secure) wait 10 secs
• turn thermostat to cool

 

By and large though, the coleman Mach 1 power saver AC unit is worth every penny of the $600-700 it costs; Mine ran AC on full blast at cedar point this past weekend along with electric pizzaz pizza maker and converter all at once and never overloaded. So far the draw in amps is usually 7.5 for just AC/converter - its NEVER failed to run or overloaded and Ive had it in the mountains and above 97 degrees with 100% humidity multiple times.

Ran it while driving just fine also. I would ditch that AC unit you have, keep the predator and Supco and get a Mach 1 PS AC unit. you will never need to look back.

 

Edited August 22, 2016 by Totem

[Totem]

On 8/19/2016 at 7:53 PM, Back East Don said:

All right, I'll ask before Totem does.  Who are you really coming here and pretending to be some guy named Mark?

I said you've already won if it works for you.  Good thing this isn't Totems post so his rules don't apply here.  Won't stop him however.

If that is all it takes, I'm just going to start my own posts and make up my own rules from now on.  Should get interesting.

Hey, I was accused of being stamar by Derek long before I asked Bryn&Cas if they were JJ.

Rules are for the birds, if your AC can start that's great for you. But Can and will are two different things that some in here like you don't seem to differentiate between.

A kids huffy bicycle can be ridden on a triathlon, but a good road bike WILL win a triathlon.

a butter knife can cut, but a steak knife will get you through the meal of the porterhouse. WME stated it best about long term use like that on a 1600; Put that thing out there in the field for 8 hours, its not gonna make it.

And Since Derek chimed in about faking a movie on the challenge rules, I set them to be while driving because that cannot be faked, so deal with it. If someones generator actually does do what we are talking about its should be easy enough to start it and run it, go to the car drive down the road then get out and show it still running if by yourself. Of course you are free instead to get sensitive and put me on ignore and plea instead for my demise, it makes no difference to me.

 

Edited August 22, 2016 by Totem

[jjrbus]

8 hours ago, Klein said:

WME, thanks but already did except the voltage measures 

- w/spp6 only w/generator - gen reved up, ac was trying to start (fan worked only), gen overload, ac unit stopped

- w/spp6 only w/house electricity- ac worked fine

- w/original start cap only w/generator - gen reved up, ac trying to start (fan worked only), gen overload, ac unit stopped

- w/original start cap only w/house electricity- ac worked fine

No other consumers turned on in MH in all scenarios but its own electric system that I assume draws some power (Since I notice the generator revs up when I plug in the main power cord)

Nice write ups and info, thanks for posting.  Jim

 

 

[WME]

Yes with out an ECO mode switch, upping the idle might give you a little more oomph. Go to your power panel and turn off all the circuit breakers EXCEPT for the A/C one. A 12v refer and the power converter are the main culprits in ghost power loads. Use Totem's start up procedure.

You are right on he edge of having enough power, don't know what will happen at 95 deg

[Back East Don]

1 hour ago, Totem said:

Of course you are free instead to get sensitive and put me on ignore and plea instead for my demise, it makes no difference to me.

I have of late taken to poking at you perhaps a bit too much.  Perhaps in your mind, you are simply provoking and are unaware that you at times come across as mean spirited.  You are certainly indifferent to it at the least.

Edited August 22, 2016 by Back East Don

[Totem]

1 hour ago, Back East Don said:

I have of late taken to poking at you perhaps a bit too much.  Perhaps in your mind, you are simply provoking and are unaware that you at times come across as mean spirited.  You are certainly indifferent to it at the least.

How I come across, to me is factual. I value the facts and pragmatism in forums like this personally; the feel good "lets all pat each other on the back and give trophies" fuzzy bunny love of the recent past 5 years (aka PC mentality) is completely alien to me so for that I apologize, I will never be that good at it . for example, I consider a honda 1600 being called a solution to rooftop air to be hyperbole at best and disingenuous at worst.. and I call it as such. I submit to you that some other posters in here have in no uncertain terms said the exact same thing, and the intolerance of my opine for my leanings is whats really being biased and discriminated against in here.  But by all means "poke" away if that's what you call it.

 

The emotional investment some people assign to how someones typing "comes across" in these forums and the wild imaginative fantasy that they have somehow been wronged or slighted never ceases to amaze me.

[Back East Don]

Subtlety a poor choice on the intractable.  What is that word again for someone who blames the victim?  With vigor and some sense of pride about it too. 

[Totem]

Are you blaming yourself for something or me? I am confused.

 

 

Edited August 22, 2016 by Totem

[markwilliam1]

I love this topic Totem. If I had known I could have gotten out of my car and videotaped that my Honda 2000i was running my roof AC while driving I could have done that numerous x's while driving steep hills in S. Ohio last week while temps were in the 90's & humidity was close to100%. Temps in my Granville were around 78. I know this isn't the mountains or high elevation but the Honda ran my AC for hours @ a time while on ECO mode and it ran flawlessly.  I understand this is rare and don't think it would work like your HF unit on your last trip though. Who knows? Thanks for all your great info and suggestions! BTW the HF 2500 predator is on sale for $369....thats cheap! Best, Mark

[Maineah]

40 minutes ago, markwilliam1 said:

I love this topic Totem. If I had known I could have gotten out of my car and videotaped that my Honda 2000i was running my roof AC while driving I could have done that numerous x's while driving steep hills in S. Ohio last week while temps were in the 90's & humidity was close to100%. Temps in my Granville were around 78. I know this isn't the mountains or high elevation but the Honda ran my AC for hours @ a time while on ECO mode and it ran flawlessly.  I understand this is rare and don't think it would work like your HF unit on your last trip though. Who knows? Thanks for all your great info and suggestions! BTW the HF 2500 predator is on sale for $369....thats cheap! Best, Mark

If you are running a small BTU AC it is possible more than like it never shut off hence it did not have to restart.78* and humid to me is hot.

Edited August 22, 2016 by Maineah