ToyoGuy Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Howdy all, Finally at that point in the program where I'm replacing all plumbing. Today I dissassembled, cleaned and fired up the old SHURFlo (model 200-210-39) in my "84 Rader and it worked without a hitch for 30 min. The casing warmed up just a bit, but that's all. Not loud, not quiet. Don't know about any check valves as I just used a 5 gal bucket. My parts guy says " it's old, replace it while you're in there" Surprise huh? ..... Can anybody report significant improvement (power consumption, noise level, or smaller footprint etc.) with a newer unit? Thanks, happy adventuring to all, T.G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 replaced mine three years ago is a little quitter but for near a hundred dollors. I would not of replaced except was leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 I have a new unit on my Toyota Sunrader and an old original one on my Nissan Sunrader. I can detect no difference in how they run or sound. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 I replaced the non-working one in my dolphin. The original shurflo in the sunrader works fine, and it stays till it doesn't . I'm sure it is the location and way it is mounted. But it is quieter than the one that I installed in the dolphin. That was mounted on a closet wall. The location in the sunrader is easily accessible, under the dinette seat, right next to the fresh water tank. If it stops working, it probably is easy to replace, anytime down the road. Why replace something that is working well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Howdy all, Finally at that point in the program where I'm replacing all plumbing. Today I dissassembled, cleaned and fired up the old SHURFlo (model 200-210-39) in my "84 Rader and it worked without a hitch for 30 min. The casing warmed up just a bit, but that's all. Not loud, not quiet. Don't know about any check valves as I just used a 5 gal bucket. My parts guy says " it's old, replace it while you're in there" Surprise huh? ..... Can anybody report significant improvement (power consumption, noise level, or smaller footprint etc.) with a newer unit? Thanks, happy adventuring to all, T.G. I thinking of installing a Shurflo accumulator pressure tank in my MiniCruiser. Having an accumulator tank makes a BIG difference in a water system. Can't say I've even noticed any difference by just upgrading a pump. Seems all RVs ought to have a pressure tank if there's any serious water use. They greatly extend the life of the pumps and give a lot of "silent" water. You won't find a household well-pump system without one. If a house water system was set-up like an RV the pump was burn out pretty fast. I have a 1959 camper trailer that came new with a pressure-tank system. Instead of a traditional plastic water storage tank - it has a steel storage tank that is also the pressure tank. That system has no water pump. Just a 12 volt air compressor that pressurizes the tank. I understand that due to the weight factor - a steel storage tank is not a great idea in a small RV. But something like a plastic 2 gallon accumulator tank used alongside the OEM storage tank ought to work very well. Use the original pump and install a low-high switch water-pressure switch. I'm figuring a water-pressure switch set at 15 PSI to come on, and 35 PSI to turn off would work well. Home Depot has a 2 gallon accumulator tank for $40 that looks just right. Measures 8" X 8" X 13". Has a 1/2 gallon draw-down if adjusted right. That means you could turn on the faucet and get 1/2 gallon of water before the pump comes on. When it does it runs steady until the tank is full and then shuts off. NO constant pump cycling every time you turn on the faucet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 Thanks to all for your kind input. I think I'll keep the current pump and budget for the tank (which has been recommended previously) later. Mine is an 18" rear dinette and space is precious. I do think I will double up on the rubber mounting grommits and try to dampen the vibration/sound a bit more. Also got to try to figure out how to test the pressure switch besides putting my thumb over the end of the supply tube in the bucket. BR, TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Most of the accumulators for RV's are small and plastic they help but if you are going to see a lot of difference you'll need a 2 gal tank. I have used pressure tanks for hot water heating systems and they really make a difference. The pump does run longer but far less often. They do make pumps that are "quiet" but they are pricey and maybe not that quiet. mine sits on a thick soft rubber pad that cut the noise by a good 50% it's not mounted just lays on the pad. The 2 gallon tanks are not small so space maybe an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredNewell Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Maineah, Are you saying the pump just lays on the pad? I'm asking because I'm replacing one this weekend. Either way, I think you have a good idea with the pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 I'd resist the temptation to hard mount it to anything solid, especially a wall where the 'drum effect' will amplify the sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 Since this is the loudest component in the coach ( haven't heard the new fan hood yet ) I'm all over the padding idea, thanks Maineah . The rigidity of the Pex will easily keep it from wandering off anywhere. Now I just gotta remember where all those pipes and drain valves go......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunrading Arkansas Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I just replaced the original in my '83 (out of necessity due to a leak), One thing I'm not too happy with is the new one runs continuously - has a bypass loop once pressure is up, almost like a neutral gear, then engages once pressure drops. My old one simply shut off once pressure was up, and kicked on once it dropped...but considering the new one is about 2-3 times more energy efficient, I suppose it doesn't matter. ALSO, I went with a flexi-line kit (Camping World, basically looks like white flexible sink hose) for the input and output lines connecting the pump - really seemed to help with the noise...just my $0.02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 What model pump did you get. I wasn't aware that any of the Sureflo pumps had a bypass system. All the ones I've installed shut off when they reach pressure. A constantly running pump can't be energy efficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Shurflo's new Revoltion pump has the bypass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 The new sureflo pumps still are supposed to shut OFF. The bypass is for when you are running a trickle out of a faucet, like brushing your teeth. The bypass will let the pump run continually instead of rapidly cycling on and off. But once you shut off the water the system will come up to pressure and the pump will shut off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I recently installed a Shurflo 4008-101-E65 that I'm very pleased with. Got it from Amazon for $70.50 free shipping. The old pump still worked but I was doing water line, and tank work so I decided to install a new pump. Old pump Shurflo 2088-403-144 is rated at 2.8 GPM 10.6 AMP'S and 40PSI. New pump is rated at 3 GPM 7.5 AMP and 55PSI. New pump is mounted on foam backed carpet and four screws into the floor. It is quieter but not much. Did install foam water pipe insulation on the outlet side. New pump water run down is longer before pump cycles is longer but may be due to higher water pressure. It does have a by-pass valve that allows a slow trickle of water without pump cycling off and on just like WME said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 The new sureflo pumps still are supposed to shut OFF. The bypass is for when you are running a trickle out of a faucet, like brushing your teeth. The bypass will let the pump run continually instead of rapidly cycling on and off. But once you shut off the water the system will come up to pressure and the pump will shut off. You may be 100% correct. I don't own one, nor do I want to. Just saw their ad with "bypass" written in the description. From what you're saying - it almost sounds like a dual-stage pump with a low-flow stage for use that doesn't need much water? Kind of like a two-stage hydraulic pump used on log splitters? And yes, I know the two-stage hydraulic pumps have the low stage for low-flow high-pressure. I'm sure not the case with a Shurflo RV water pump. One of my old campers has one of the best water systems I've seen in an RV. Has a small air compressor and no water pump. Just pressurizes the water tank and forces water out. As long as there is a good air-cushion trapped in the tank it works much better then any RV pump system I've seen unless an accumulator is added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunrading Arkansas Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 Yeah, I got the 4028 Revolution - 5amp, 2GPM, 50psi. The "Internal Bypass Low cycling" is what I'm talking about continuous running. I just shut it off with the switch when not in use and it works fine. So far it's only a minor issue and it does use half the energy of my factory one (while being about half as loud too). Thanks for the feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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