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Sunrading Arkansas

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Everything posted by Sunrading Arkansas

  1. My Weber came with that plate with a threaded nipple that the PCV hose connects to on the Manifold...I can't remember exactly what was there before, but I think there was just a solid block-off plate (though it may have been part of the EGR). If you don't have a second breather on your valve cover (i.e., where my little red filter is on next to the oil cap) then I'm not sure how yours is supposed to be setup. But I know that on my 22r the PCV needs continuous vacuum from the manifold - which you wouldn't be getting from the filter housing port - in order to draft the crankcase gases/pressure/air.
  2. Sounds like something is definitely amiss in your setup. I have to imagine that's condensation, not fuel, coming from the exhaust. I ran my Weber through elevations between 0ft and 11000ft (mostly between 3-8k) with factory jetting and it ran fine - no backfire. You'd have to get a A/F guage as WME suggested or pull the plugs to determine if it's running lean or rich (sounds like it's rich to me, so the plugs would be black soot covered). But if it was THAT rich, you'd be fouling plugs pretty regularly (and then it would have a miss). I've attached some pics of my setup. I'd recommend tracking down a friend/relative that's familiar with carbs and trade them a sixer for some help & a walk through.
  3. Yeah, I got the 4028 Revolution - 5amp, 2GPM, 50psi. The "Internal Bypass Low cycling" is what I'm talking about continuous running. I just shut it off with the switch when not in use and it works fine. So far it's only a minor issue and it does use half the energy of my factory one (while being about half as loud too). Thanks for the feedback.
  4. Sunrading Arkansas

    Sadie

    Sadie is our 5 year old Lab/Rottweiler pound puppy. When she's not asleep in the back, she sits like this right between the wife and I. She's been a great (and patient) travel companion and loves our little Sunrader.
  5. I just replaced the original in my '83 (out of necessity due to a leak), One thing I'm not too happy with is the new one runs continuously - has a bypass loop once pressure is up, almost like a neutral gear, then engages once pressure drops. My old one simply shut off once pressure was up, and kicked on once it dropped...but considering the new one is about 2-3 times more energy efficient, I suppose it doesn't matter. ALSO, I went with a flexi-line kit (Camping World, basically looks like white flexible sink hose) for the input and output lines connecting the pump - really seemed to help with the noise...just my $0.02.
  6. @Zach - as WME stated: the PCV should be routed to the intake manifold directly - not the carb. And I would highly recommend the little filter on the valve cover instead of routing it into the Carb (just cap the hole in the airbox where it is "supposed to go" - nice thing about my new Weber K&N is it doesn't even have this air inlet hole in the airbox). I say this because, with mine, it started sucking oil out of the valve cover and into the Carb/Airbox which made a mess out of the filter and probably wasn't helping efficiency). I'll take some pics of my current set-up (and my old nasty filter) if it ever stops raining here.
  7. @Zach - Glad to hear the conversion worked out well! I think it makes a great deal of difference to have the carb tuned properly (air/fuel mixture not necessarily jetting) and with Weber's a properly dialed in fuel regulator (other wise the carb will always be running with a flooded bowl). I first did a valve adjustment, then adjusted the timing to factory (5 degrees TDC w/ vacuum lines off the distributor and capped), then adjusted the air/fuel mix screw (with a digital tachometer hooked up) until I had the highest RPM I could get with that adjustment, and finally I set the idle speed screw at close to factory RPM (750 I think). *You can do the whole thing by ear and get close, but a digital tach (mine is on my timing light) is worth it's weight in gold in my opinion. @Stevo - As to the K&N, I mainly replaced the standard one because A ) those clips broke WAY to easily when removing the filter and B ) because my original air filter was FILTHY from my trip out west and saturated with oil because I (stupidly) routed the Valve Cover breather (NOT the PCV but the other one) into the airbox (as instructed) which ended up just sucking oil into the airbox & carb. The K&N is supposedly going to increase air flow 30%, but I don't think that will make much difference since I'm running a stock exhaust...we'll see. If I was a richer man I'd probably throw a JCE header on there and a 2.25" pipe, which I know would make a difference.
  8. @jdemaris - It's a 4 speed manual (would love to swap a 5 speed at some point- if I could find one with low enough miles), and the trip from NW Arkansas to Dauphin Island was mostly flat (80%). I'm very happy with 18mpg, anything I'm able to get above that will be gravy.
  9. That Wilson's Booster is exactly what I bought at Best Buy (well I got the AT&T one) when we were out west last summer, definitely seemed to help (made the difference between zero bars and one or two) in quite a few circumstances. Unfortunately, I got fed up with my old Android phone and switched entirely to Windows ecosystem (Phone, Computer, Xbox, etc) and lost my free Wifi-tethering ability I had on Android. So this summer it looks like I'll be tied to Wifi hotspots as I'm not willing to dole out the cash for a Verizon/AT&T portable hotspot.
  10. Just FYI, for those with Webers (or soon to be . I recently installed this filter set-up on my Weber: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-56-1070/ It's K&N Part Number 56-1070, and replaces the entire airbox that comes with most Webers. LCE sells a larger 11" circular kit but it's $150. Not sure what if any difference in fuel economy it will make, but I'll report back once I've put some miles on it.
  11. Just another quick update: We took the Sunrader down to Dauphin Island, AL for Spring break with the new Euro Weber on and averaged 18mpg over the appx. 1000 miles we drove. I just put a new K&N Filter kit on, so hopefully that number will get even better! Also, put new Trans Oil in as well as High performance plugs & wires, a new distributor cap & rotor, and replaced the fuel filter. Getting ready for another long 5500 mile trip out east in a week or two!
  12. Had this happen to mine. The PCV should be routed to the Manifold directly - not the Carb - but may be worth replacing ($4 or so at the local parts store). The oil on mine was coming from the front valve cover vent/breather (near the oil cap), if this is the way yours is routed - I'd put a little generic air filter on the vent/breather and plug the port in the Airbox (generic plugs and air filters [i used a small red one from Oreilly's] can be found at most parts stores.... I ended up buying a proper K&N Weber Filter Kit (it's pricey though, think it was like $80) as my original airfilter was junk after our last trip, but it works great - and hopefully will help with the MPGs....if nothing else it looks cool.
  13. @sailfritz - yeah, I can't recommend de-smog in Cali. Although Weber makes a smog legal carb, not sure if it would pass without the other goodies. I saved all my OEM smog stuff and carb because it was functioning fine and I wanted to be able to sell it with the sunrader if I ever needed too. @Stevo - yes, I got/get comparable mpg to the original factory carb. I did recently replace the first weber (the one used on my trip) with a new European/Spanish built Weber - the original was a Chinese manufactured and was of lower build quality. The idle mix screw stopped functioning and the choke/high-idle spring was starting to fail - so make sure you buy the European one it's much more substantial (the difference is the Euro one has "Weber" casted into the metal and has a white electric choke, Chinese has a black choke).
  14. For our long trip, my wife made about 2 weeks worth of dinners and froze them. When we left we stuffed the Dometic freezer full and put the rest in the fridge. Then used a 2 qt. crockpot in the sink hooked up to the inverter to reheat the meals as we drove. We ate basically the same as we do at our house (or better), and by augmenting the frozen meals with the occasional restaurant we stretched those meals for close to 3 weeks. Cheap and delicious.
  15. I used French Press on our trip but got REALLY sick of cleaning it. Finally just went and bought a pour-over and couldn't be happier - boil water on the stove, pour over on the thermos, toss the grounds/filter in the trash, and move along.
  16. Thanks, ya way too many pics. If it were just me I'd have probably went with a chinook though, if only for the fuel economy...and those 4x4 conversions are pretty sick.
  17. and here is 83 FSM with full wiring diagram: http://rapidshare.com/files/1417743960/1983%20Toyota%20Pickup%20FSM.zip
  18. Yes, everything excepty the t-stat housing - fill through the t-stat opening, then bolt the t-stat back onto the manifold, then top off the radiator slowly.
  19. I have the factory manual for the truck part of the RV as well as the Factory Service Manual (PDF) for '83. other camper specific stuff is better found via Linda's link. PM me if you want the FSM.
  20. 45 days, 8000mi. Just put a trip report type update thing here: http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5382&page=5#entry49599 Trip pics here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrickandlindsey Had a blast in on our first real voyage in our toyhome, loved every minute of it!
  21. What Zach said, except I ALWAYS fill the block through the T-stat hole, then bolt everything back up and fill the radiator the rest of the way. Then (carefully) let it warm with the cap off to allow any air bubbles to escape, shut off and let cool, then top off. Those air bubbles can wreck havoc in the cooling system if they get stuck in the wrong place...that's how i learned how to do a head gasket on my old 4runner...just my $0.02.
  22. That "magic cure-in-a-bottle" stuff is a big no-no in my opinion - can cause all kinds of headaches later down the road. Doing a head gasket is a PITA, but if the head isn't warped (which obviously if you drive it and it over-heats is very likely) it's a relatively cheap fix. If you're considering de-smog at all, it would be a much easier job while the head is off too. And timing chain, valves, waterpump, etc. Not fun, but very educational if you decide to tackle it yourself. Best of luck either way.
  23. Just to update: got back from an 8000mi. trip out west, never once got hassled about my setup. And we did a lot of night driving. So far so good!
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