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Toyota Advanced Member
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About ToyoGuy

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  • Interests
    Fixing stuff, good tools, travel, people with integrity (who fix stuff), cooking, older cars and motorcycles, woodworking, fixing other stuff.

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1984 Sunrader FG-180 RD 4x4
  • Location
    N. Bay, Ca

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  1. Wow, there's some clean work on that rig. Someone took some time and weasle-hides to get this far, that's for sure. Nice paint job ($), great ladder, robust front strut design. I do miss the signature front wrap-arounds though. I'm wondering what the exterior louvered panel to the left of the driver's side fridge vents is for? "Keeps up with modern moterhomes in the passes " Hmmmm, is there a nitreous bottle hidden under the driver's seat? Which reminds me, wonder who did the motor, or if it's original, not much said about that. I do like the slanted Ventline vent-covers on the roof. If you know what you want, and it looks like this guy did, giving up the lower bunk real estate is OK, but personally, I got tired of jumping out of the upper bunk at night to answer nature's call. Also,for the trade-off, definitely only a table for two. Cool looking shower setup, but no mixer, cold only? I wonder if there's storage in those corners behind the pillows of the rear dinette? The traded-out rearend sounds pretty cool. On single wheels, as always, I wonder what a rig weighs in at. A nice offering and one of a kind, that's for sure. GLWTA, BR, TG
  2. Clean / irrigate cracks or breaks with denatured acohol or naptha. You would do well to find a mirror or piece of glass to set the pieces on, especially if they are in 2 or more pieces. This will keep the lense / repair flat. Use wax-paper to lay the repair on and keep from gluing the lens to your flat work surface. Carefully wick / drop water-viscosity super-glue into the cracks. It will take less than you think. (Hobby stores sell the glue and little wick-tips for the glue bottles to control the flow) When you're done, re-install the lenses carefully. If you over tighten them, you'll likely crack or break the corners again. They will glue well, if clean and well aligned. You can buff them carefully by hand with McGuires before you install them, if you want. BR, TG
  3. Welcome Morgan, Anyone from the home of Leo Fender is welcome in my tribe! Your plan sounds like it has all the right ingredients and location. I've had my SunRader 18 footer for about 7 or 8 yrs and it's been just right for my adventures. I also got woke up and found out that it's always "now" about 9 yrs ago,...... I'm just amazed that I don't always remember it. My daily driver for the last 15 yrs.has been an '85 22RE Xtra-cab. You'll fit just fine in a Toyo-based rig (and the troop here). BR, TG
  4. Hi Erica, The way I removed the plywood from the ceiling/coach walls was to borrow a 4'" battery circular saw (Makita?) and set the depth for 1/16" less than the thickness of the plywood, and make cuts every 2" or so down the plywood strips. You can then take a sharp 1 1/2" chisel and hammer, and knock those 2" chunks off (carefully). It sounds like a lot, but it may surprise you how easily some of the old material pops off. When you get next to a wall, after working across the ceiling, put something behind the plywood you are knocking the chunks out of, to keep from putting the chisel thru the corner of the wall after it cuts out the chunk. To remove the remaining 1/16" ply stuck to the ceiling, use a disc-sander w/80 grit or an angle-grinder w/a 4" #80 sanding disc (Harvard Freight $20?) A fan inside the coach may help. Hint: Buy a Tyvek zip-up suit for $8-10 so you don't get sawdust and ground fiberglass down your back and a good respirator mask for the fiberglass dust. BR, TG
  5. 2 hours old so far, heck, the axel and rims are worth it. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/rvs/d/kelseyville-1987-toyota/7319243641.html Good luck to somebody :) BR, TG
  6. Hey htioki, Been driving 22R and 22re's for 25yrs now, been through 6 engines from LA to Sacramento and even shopped Oregon, but never heard of these guys. For what it's worth, the prices seem too low for a premium engine rebuild. 7 year 70K mi guarantee seems a bit "wishfull". I have thrown the dice and lost on motors with pro-looking shops and great guarantees before, myself. Remember this, if the ship hits the sand, after small claims court, even if you win, you still gotta get them to pay up . Ask me how I know.... Besides inexperienced/bad labor, the most common way substandard shops save $ to offer a cheap motor is using Chinese parts. I've seen Chinese cams that looked like they were 30-50K mi old that got pulled out of a motor with less than 3K miles on it. Ask around in 4WD and crawler forums down there, they run their motors hard. There's got to be a solid motor builder that close to the desert. Remember, the only time a Toyota RV motor ever sees an easy day, is when it's parked. I would consider buying from a reputable premium shop and having it shipped, then installed by your trusted mechanic. These guys are an acknowledged shop at the top of the food chain up here nearby in Chico: https://22reperformance.com/#youmadeit My buddy has one of their motors and it's a thing of beauty. Just my opinion, buy the best and only cry once. Good luck, BR, TG
  7. About price...I used to do fabrication of prosthetic limbs using carbon fiber and CF's raw material cost is about 5 X that of common fiberglass. However, the big ticket item is the equipment and setup for the shop. The equipment setup to lay up, bag and vacuume mold a single-piece shell this big will have these guys eating humble pie for some time into the future. While carbon fiber impressive stuff to use in certain applications like aircraft and hybrid parts for race cars, in my opinion, it's way overkill for a coach shell (Bling!!), even for an overland motorhome.
  8. Thanks Jim, I will remember Derek and use what he taught me. BR, TG
  9. Well now, hmmm. Checked out their website and several things occur to me as a 4x4 Rader guy. First of all, like Linda and grtthegrt said, astronomical base price. Here's my observation on that : The dealer receipt written to the original owner of my stock, no extras SunRader 4x4 shows he paid paid $26,000 and chump-change out the door. (Side Note: The guy's mustering-out retirement papers for the USAF, stuffed in the plastic owner's manual folder, were dated the same day as he picked up a new SunRader 4x4. Gotta admire a guy with a plan ) Using an online inflation adjustment tool, it turns out that his/my rig would cost $64,765 US weasel hides today. Now, even if I consider the additional solar, increased tank capacities, the more "inspired" 4wd capabilities, Lithium battery bank and the truly obnoxious weather-proof speaker system they offer to piss-off people down-the-canyon, the extra $220,235 smackeroos would take care of all that and still give you a down payment on a decent house in 45 of these somewhat united states. It seems SunRader gave bang for the buck in 1984 that a middle-income family could manage with some relative financial effort. Some other stuff, ....the TruckHouse is 4' longer than a 4x4 SR, which could make it a little bit more challenging to squeeze in to some places and, at Stage I chassis mod, is 10' high. That allows head room for a 6ft 3in person, a definate advantage. BTW, the floorplan is identical to my 'diner-in-the-back' '84. Here's a bunch more, BR, TG : KEY SPECIFICATIONS Chassis: Toyota Tacoma Length: 21'11" Height: 9'11" Width: 7'1" Interior Standing Height: 6'3 1/2" Ground Clearance (@rear diff): 11" Approach Angle: 39.5° Departure Angle: 19.5° Breakover Angle: 24.2° Wheel Travel: 12+" Solar: 600 watts Battery: 500 amp hours Fuel Capacity: 33 gallons Fresh Water Capacity: 30 gallons Grey Water: 20 gallons Features: Cabover Queen Bed and Rear Dinette Full Bed Integrated Hydronic Heating 7 Safari-Style Dual-Paned Windows Oversized Skylight Integrated Blinds and Screens Multi-Speed Ventilation Fan Stainless Galley Sink Convection Oven/Microwave Two Burner Induction Cooktop Marine Grade Drawer Fridge and Freezer U-shaped Rear Dinette Wet Bath With Cassette Toilet Dimmable LED House Lighting Swivel Mounted 32" LED TV* Power Management System Lithium Battery Bank Luxury Woven Vinyl Flooring 12v Air Conditioning * Heated Floors* Truck Cabin Access via Passthrough *Optional
  10. Welcome JJ, I'm not a Dolphin guy, but if you could submit some photos of the problem area, I think one of the other members could give you some input, or hazard a good guess about the location of the tops of the bolts you want to locate and how to get to them. I will say I think it might get old pretty quick making that first big step up without the bolt-on unit, unless you have a replacement-step plan. Meanwhile, if you're still dedicated to the plan, I'd be squirting some penetrating oil up onto those frozen nuts in prep for removal. If they are REALLY frozen, you're likely talking Sawzall and a nice new and sharp blade or a "nut-splitter". Note that, either way, you will still probably need to find the offending bolt heads . Hard to say without pictures and knowing the final objective. BTW, if you're not mechanically handy, best to conscript someone handy for these tasks and pay for brews and/or pizza. BR, TG
  11. CSR, This is indeed some inventive fab work and a great idea. (Really liked John's vid too) As has been said before, the stock SunRader furnace leaves much to be desired in efficiency and noise level, to say nothing of the ducting/distribution, which was all collapsed and non-existent in mine. I'll be interested in how it works out for you. Definately an interesting post for those of us who fabricate. Always good to see what you're up to..... BR, TG
  12. Thanks for letting us know Linda. It's a strange thing for an old guy like me, this having a friend "on line" stuff. I have been involved in this forum about 10 years and Derek helped me through so many difficult problems, yet I never got to meet the man. In one of the many 'How To Fix Anything' books I collected over the years, there was this fixit guy's prayer at the end of the book. It reminds me of Derek for some obvious reasons and I hope including it here offends no one. PS I hope he likes the new title Derek Further Up North. BR, TG
  13. Hey Gandolphin, Love the pictures. They absolutely remind me of what my rig/yard looked like. Have faith and hang in there.... You are hooked into what is absolutely the best information resource for what you are taking on. Some input/things. Try not to rush too much, planning and research will pay quite handsomely in the future. Another thing, sometimes you gotta give up the buck to get the good stuff that will be buried and unaccessible later, other times you can get on the road with OK quality and upgrade later, (if the part's not buried too deep behind/under what you're rebuilding). You seem to have good help, tools and tunes, that's really half of it. Making prioritzed punchlists worked for me, (sometime two, difficulty/time req'd and $) that way you can minimize hardware store trips, keep track of progress (and crossing stuff off the list feels good). I have a few lists that I kept, and they now reveal how much more productive I got about 1/2 way through after settling in to the old addage "plan the work and work the plan". When it's all done and you're looking out the back window at the morning rain, in a warm coach with a hot cup o joe, you'll be glad for all your effort. You will also be capable of leaping tall buildings and performing at least two minor miracles per week, - that's what I tell people who ask me about my project and want to start a total rebuild. PS Sorry no money to send, spent it all on the gut and re-do of my rig. Best regards, TG
  14. Hey there MaineJed, My 2c... The more air-tight and well maintained your coach and cab are, the less you pay attention to regular furnace maintenance, inspection of the stove/oven,and associated gas lines etc, the more one chooses to use unapproved heating sources, the higher the risk factor. Having done a total rebuild and looking at the cost and size (mine is a small commonly available battery-powered household unit from Hopeless Depot), I elected to take the $10-15 plunge and found a correct out-of-the-way place to mount it and never looked back. To be fair, in 10 yrs, I have never on this blog, heard of a tragedy involving asphyxiation due to a faulty "dog-fart-alarm" as they are known in some circles . PTL. Most older rigs leak air like a sieve, so the air leakage reduces risk, but, if you're snow camping, it's inefficient. I would also add that I would doubt the functioning performance of any stock unit as old as the rigs many of our members have. Most of them are 80's technology and lots of technical things are way better now at lower cost. Essentially, mine was "hosed", so I replaced it 'cause that's how I roll. I also try to remember the next owner may have grand kids. Again, just my 2 cents, opinions always vary. BR, TG
  15. Heck, I could only dream of pulling up to a campsite and seeing The Killer step out of a Nova Star parked next door. Whooeee. Good luck with your search. TG
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