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Toyota Advanced Member
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About ToyoGuy

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1984 Sunrader FG-180 RD 4x4
  • Location
    N. Bay, Ca

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  • Interests
    Fixing stuff, good tools, travel, people with integrity (who fix stuff), cooking, older cars and motorcycles, woodworking, fixing other stuff.

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  1. Wow, clean work and well thought out. And so energy efficient ! A bit claustrophobic though, I'd need more glass. For over $100K, I say go big or go home. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/rvs/7552233634.html
  2. Lot's of stuff for the price. Can't think of anyone to call...... Surprised it's still listed. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/rvs/7547503954.html
  3. "how truly capable is the Sunrader 4x4? " Hmmm, who's driving?........ see below. Seeing this discussion, and as a long-term SunRader 4x4 owner and frame-up rebuilder, I felt compelled to throw in my 2 cents. Heck, if nothing else, the pictures are worth a gander. (These are the most aggressive "stock" Rader 4x4 shots I have come across in the 10 yrs I've owned my rig) I will state here, that I would not submit my rig to this type of stuff except in an emergency, despite the fact that my frame, coach-mounts and extensions have been reinforced/modified. "The washboard effect is the killer, dam near every nail and screw comes loose". IMHO How true ! Personally, I believe that vibration, lack of maintenance and moisture are an RV's worst enemies, new rig or old. (PO's don't count) "Their Sunrader was much lighter after the remodel." You're right Linda, they actually did pretty good with all the add-ons... but no pooper. A look back at a post-sale response about weight from BFN said : Posted April 12, 2021 "Unfortunately I don’t have the proof in photos. We weighed it at a weigh station in Oregon before the renovation and later on in Florida at a CAT scale. I’m wildly curious what it would have been as a shell. The 5,800lbs figure was dry but with almost all our gear. Safe to say it would be around 6,000lbs wet (I believe our water tank was less than 20 gallons). (Edit No bathroom in this rig) " Greg's 4x4 was close to 7,000 lbs provisioned, per his last estimate. Two people (Greg & BFN) have wondered about the fiberglass/coach shell only weight, and years ago, in a galaxy far away...... My 18' Shell only: I did a calculation when I stripped mine out and cut out a large piece of the side wall for the outside shower. I calculated the fiberglass weight at about 1 lb per sq ft x 3/16" thick, which was the average. (This is a rough calc as, if you look at raw fiberglass work on a stripped Rader, it looks like workers fell asleep with the flocking gun on in random spots : ) Anyway, this put the shell alone of my 18' coach at roughly 900 lbs. BFN wanted to know: My 4x4 Rader with totally stripped shell, 1/4 tank fuel and 160 lbs in one bucket seat, no windows, empty tanks etc: 3,840 lbs. Others asked: My 4x4 Rader with total rebuild and frame mods, un-provisioned, 1/2 tank o'gas: 5,3444 lbs. I have a friend who has a stock 4x4 and I'm going to get him to weigh it for comparison soon. Well, that's what I know about this stuff,...... so far. BR, TG
  4. Hey Runsader85, You might want to take this opportunity to check the fuel-filler-neck and vent hoses from the tank. Unless I'm mistaken, the fuel-filler hose and vent hose for your rig may be routed through the sidewall of the coach near the entry door, and pass through the coach within a cabinet. (Might be wrong about that too, I'm guessing as I have an 18'er, and your picture is of the driver's side, but this was one of the first things I fixed. (PO issue) On some of these older rigs, when the tank is filled right to the top, or the RV is in motion, fuel will many times "slosh" up into an old, cracked or loose filler-neck-hose and or vent hose, and cause it to seep, creating a fuel-vapor smell in the front of the coach, and or the cab. (Kinda depends on whether you have a window open in the back and or front, or both) There should be a way to look inside a cabinet to check the hose clamps and hose itself, or you can probably slide under as well. Also, a coupla yrs ago, I called Transfer Flow, I believe it was in Oregon, and they still made the 24 gal tanks, but said they wouldn't ship to me in Ca. (Whoo hoo,... roadtrip ) BR, TG
  5. Hi El Rito, Quite the job there, but fear not, we've seen way worse ! Yes,... according to an older staff member and super mondo-builder, bajadulce, FRP that can be had from most big box hardware stores will work for exterior with the appropriate type of prep, logic and finish. As quoted below: "I did use FRP to cover the front windows as well as the new roof. In both cases, the textured side was roughed up (deglossed) with a disk sander and layer(s) of matted fiberglass added. For the roof, I may have gone overboard by adding 2 layers, but it is holding strong. With primer/paint, there shouldn't be any issues with UV. The roof/front has held up seemingly great for about 10 years now.... wow time flies. ..." Check out baja's previous thread of his builds here on TMH.org and also his flicker account for further ideas on prep and finish. BR, TG
  6. Seven years of mods and upgrades. Clean rig and turbo to boot. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/rvs/7527683153.html BR, TG
  7. Looks like a quality rig, low miles, probably 10 mpg? https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/rvs/7526440514.html
  8. Sorry Linda, You are correct, isolator connects first through the coach battery, then to power center, in my case it's a newer Progressive Dynamics, but essentially the same in layout as original. On the other... Turns out the late '84 year Rader my neighbor has is different and has an internally regulated alternator, but has the same original isolator that you pointed me to. His wiring harness under the hood is a bit different. My rig was not sold with that type of isolator, as I find no mounting-bracket holes existing anywhere near where it would have been installed on either fender-wall and the harness is not the same. I have the one that you pointed to as stock on order. Your ground statement is noted, (the old 3-connector diode isolator didn't use one at all, unless it was the mounting bolts). I will mount one locally as needed. On spinning, I offer you this quote that used to hang in my shop: "We have not succeeded in answering all our problems—indeed we sometimes feel we have not completely answered any of them. The answers we have found have only served to raise a whole set of new questions. In some ways we feel that we are as confused as ever, but we think we are confused on a higher level and about more important things." BR, TG
  9. Hey thanks Linda. Because the original setup seems obviously changed and the main 12V cables from front to back are not well routed and old, I am questioning the #8 gauge Pos and Neg wires installed from the cab to the back of the coach/circuit distribution panel. For an 18' run it seems like a pretty minimal gauge. Seems like it would be good to change to #4 gauge wire. Also, I don't see why they ran a ground all the way from the cab / front to the back, when they could just ground to the chassis at the back. I have the luck of having a neighbor who also owns the same year and model SunRader 4x4 as me (how often will that happen?) and I'm going to do some comparison-checking on his system this morning. Maybe I'll get a better picture of what they did originally and what I want to do. BR, TG
  10. Hey Maineah, This alternator is externally regulated, not sure if that's helpful. The regulator is new, as is the alternator. The voltage sensing wire/circuit in the wiring harness that goes to the regulator connector and the connector it attaches to the regulator with have both been cleaned and tested good. I have also re-tested the whole setup with an extra good regulator, so I believe the new regulator is not the problem. When I wire the isolator out of the system (all battys chg'd) and the system sees both 12V sources as a single one, everything runs/looks right (14.5 V) in voltage output from the new alternator/regulator combo. I have had solid state isolators fail before, so before I pay someone $200/hr (current hrly auto-electric $-rate here in paradise) to chase this further down the rabbit hole, I'm going to switch to a different style of isolator for $20-$40 bucks. Thanks WME, Good to know. TG
  11. Thanks neilp, Never hurts to consider all possibilities, for sure. In my mind, it would seem that, if the over-charge problem disappears completely when House "+" battery connection, Truck "+" battery connection, and Alternator output "+" connection are stacked/connected on (any) single post, (which eliminates the isolator altogether), that the truck "+" battery terminal-to-isolator post wire is clean/good. That said, I am re-checking everything before I install the new (and different type) isolator. With the new non-solid state type, I believe I'll have to install a "true ignition source" connection/wire for a single added connection. Not sure where I'll grab it from yet, gotta consult the FSM or poke around. Or both. I am shopping new isolators now and there's some additional features that I need to understand more about, before I lay down my hard earned weasle-hides on the more expensive offerings. No problem though, I got time while the cushions get re-covered...... Before I visit Dubois BR, TG
  12. OK, so I hook House batty, truck batty and Alternator together on a single post and I get correct Alternator charge voltage of 14.6 V. Does this make the case for a bad isolator? On Dubois... Well I guess Buffalo BBQ weekend,Timberjack Joe and the annual rodeo are goners by now. A friend of mine who was through about a month ago said Welty's General store gave it up after 130 yrs. I used to play weekends at the Ramshorn Inn and my girlfriend worked at the Cowboy Cafe. Wasn't much there then, wonder if everyone still says "you bet" and "Let'r buck" ; ) TG
  13. I'll hook it all up and check it tomorrow. As a matter of fact, I talked to the local RV installer-guy this afternoon, and he told me he hadn't seen a SS isolator in years. Guess I'm showing my age again. The #48530 is $125 on Amazon, but it looks like it would be money well spent. Buy the best and only cry once. Thanks WME, BTW, I lived in Dubois for a bit a LONG time ago. Made it to Riverton and back once in a '57 Ford station wagon. Wish I had that wagon now... BR, TG
  14. Well... 1.5 is thought provoking. Guess I never considered it ! Could this be legit? Lessee...house is still blocked by a diode from draining the truck battery, but alas, the truck can drain the house battys methinks. 2.5 leaves me where I was, with 15.7 V at the truck battery continually. I'm tempted to suspect the isolator, but "sources" say they either work, or not, and I did test it.
  15. So here's the update on the (1 Volt +/-) overcharge condition, new voltage regulator, new alternator, all plugs examined and cleaned, grounds cleaned and batteries tested good or were replaced and were charged before these voltage tests were done at the isolator, which also tested good for isolation. Scenarios were: #1- Alt cable and truck- battery lead bolted together on middle (usually Alt) post (eliminating isolator) the world is good. Battery charging at 14.5 V. Didn't check empty outer posts. #2 – Alt cable on middle post and Coach-battery on number 2 side-post. No truck-battery hooked up, but the empty truck-battery post reads 14.18 V. The world is still good @ 14.3 V on Alt post and 14.18 V @ Coach-battery post. #3 - All cables hooked to respective correct-installation posts and getting 15.5 on Alt post and 14.5 V on both Coach-battery and truck-battery posts. If this is left this way @ idle, the voltage climbs towards 14.8 V and beyond on both coach and truck batteries. I have not left it running like this to find out how high ... #4 – Alt post hooked up and truck-battery post both hooked up and Coach-battery post empty. Empty Coach post 14.5 V, Alt post 15.7 V, truck battery post 14.7 V. Key out of ignition, all cables installed per normal, both truck-battery and coach-battery posts read 13V. Alt post starts @ about a 5 V reading and slowly declines to almost 0 V, but if the leads to the VOM are removed, the voltage slowly climbs again. Shouldn't there be no voltage here? Weird science. I think I need to do all tests again, but use the hot connection at the back of the alternator and see if there's any difference. Somehow the regulator thinks the isolator needs more current. Might need to re-check the voltage sensing wire/plug interface. Ah, schematics, what fun. BR, TG
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