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Toyota Advanced Member
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About ToyoGuy

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  • Interests
    Fixing stuff, good tools, travel, people with integrity (who fix stuff), cooking, older cars and motorcycles, woodworking, fixing other stuff.

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1984 Sunrader FG-180 RD 4x4
  • Location
    N. Bay, Ca

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ToyoGuy's Achievements

  1. New product from Murphy Inc. Concrete cinder block for anchoring vent-handle not included....
  2. Thanks WLK, LCE is, in fact, at the top of the list with 2 others so far. Need to find what their install charges are. Everyone who builds likes it best when you use their guy or shop to insure a smooth and competent install. I am however, surprised to observe the difference in guarantees for stock or level 2 builds at this point. It certainly seems to highlight the amount of faith that builders have in their product. Thx, TG
  3. Thanks mpanzar, I checked their website and I like that they offer stages of performance. I'll put them on my "to call" list. What level did you buy in at and what did you do with your motor when you did the switch? Thanks, TG
  4. Well, Jim at the 22RE Performance shop is booked-up for the unforseeable future for rebuilds, and there's no one else local that's looking promising to me anymore. I've got no room/time to do the work myself, so I'm looking for a top-drawer rebuilder. Does anyone have any actual experience with LC Engineering stock 22R/RE motor builds and or installs? How about D.O.A. ,( also in AZ) ? They show a "22R – 22RE (motorhome/cab & chassis) 150 HP – $3,750",... ( heck, is that 150HP even possible?) YotaShop? Any other suggestions for a high-quality motor rebuilder? Thanks for any recs, BR, TG
  5. I'm with you WME. This is about the cleanest Chinook (all the way through) that I have ever seen (except Nolan's, which are essentially are hot rod sleds) That being said,... I noticed this comment below the offering: " sold on BaT, sold again, and now being auctioned again, all within 3 years". I wonder why? Also, for us California types, trying to get smog on this stuff can be a mechanical and DMV nightmare. Not sure I could drive something that loud for hours, but it did seem to pull admirably uphill in 5th gear at about 1:58 in the driving video ! Cool vintage air-conditioner. Already up to $15K....good thing I'm poor... Hmmmm, lotto ticket, y'say? BR, TG
  6. Sorry, still running stock Aisin. Can't help you with the Webber. My rigs off-site anyway. Maybe someone else out there can help. Good luck TG
  7. The pricier 4x4 rig looks pretty tight and it looks like the seller's an experienced builder. Just over 500 hours seems like a miracle to me, but I guess it's possible. Having used DuraBond, I wouldn't employ it to anchor cabling on a roof, it's messy to pull up and sometimes takes up what it's glued to as well. I'm always thinking about the "next guy" when I can, 'cause sometimes he's me! : ) Also, being an 18 footer guy, I always wonder what that extra 3 feet of of cargo space, and what it gets filled with does to the performance of a 105 hp motor. I mean, you start out significantly heavier drive train-wise with a 4x4 right out of the gate. I wonder what she weighs in at? Clean lookin' that's for sure. Not much said about the frame, rust etc for an mid-west truck. Anyone had any experience with the Durabak paint product he's impressed with? I'm wondering about their gloss product, not the "bumpy" bed-liner that I wouldn't want as an all-over paint job. Always thinkin' BR, TG
  8. "they are not to be found... " You'd think that after all this time, I would have known better than to have made such a foolish statement in present company. Thanks Linda, I'm on it. TG
  9. Ah, more is revealed in the thread! It is an Air Silencer/ Resonator box! I guess it blocks the "hiss" of the intake and resonation of the air-cleaner chamber at certain RPM's... Good thing I don't need one, they are not to be found...
  10. Thanks Linda, I wonder what's inside?, or if it's perforated, since I don't own one because my coach battery used to be there. (before I converted to 6 V deep cell x 2 in the back) Might have to call Yodaman on this one.
  11. Howdy all, I am consulting the collective oracle of older carburetor-types in search of the purpose of this mysterious "air-box" device, ( behind radiator overflow bottle and next to white arrow in picture). I am in currently doubt of it's actual usefulness on a well-tuned 22R motor assembly and I am just running the stock plastic flex-pipe off the air filter out to the front of the grille, next to the radiator. Thanks for any informed thoughts or speculation. BR, TG
  12. Whatta great idea WME ! It's out there "basking" on the lawn right now. (Now why didn't I think of that?? ) I read somewhere that age conferred wisdom, now I'm not so sure. I also forgot where I put the book I saw it written in. Thanks, TG
  13. Thank you Greg! As they say, "you don't miss your water, 'till your well runs dry... Current biz at hand: After 5-6 yrs, of decent service, I will (again) be replacing the vinyl trim mold on the coach seam of my 18' SunRader due to discoloration and long-term shrinkage etc. I am wondering how much "extra" length others have initially left, over and above exact length, to allow for initial / eventual shrinkage after installation. I think last time, when I used the thinner stuff, I left about an inch extra, and was surprised how it disappeared after about a day or two in the sun. Through trial and error, I also know the mistake of pulling or stretching the stuff too much when installing it. Note that I opted for the ebay"Furniture Lady's" thicker stuff. ( and I bought 75' of it this time ) Good to be back in touch, BR, TG
  14. At 1.6L, that's about 78 hp, unless my research is skewed? At least it has fuel-injection, but still,..... I didn't see a vehicle weight listed in the offering. It must be the only vehicle a well-tuned SunRader owner would race for pinks.
  15. Hi Kyla, Here (Below) is your tank, in the wild. If you really want to do this, you will need a capable handyman, (or woman) who has some plumbing experience, some WD 40, plumbers-tape, probably a strap-wrench and others, and assorted 1 1/2" pvc fittings and glue, a drill to mount the brass hose-fitting and an afternoon. A judicious allotment of beer might help with the handyman... Oh yeah, and emptying black-water tank helps too.... If you're motivated and still game, as Linda said, you could complete the re-routing for the shower like Greg and I, but you still need to cap the PVC pipe currently draining to the black tank or you're going to be in for some serious stinkage and possible danger, depending on your octane rating. The block you see on top of the tank is for venting black-tank sewage gas (pointing up) and accepting the shower drain-off (pointing sideways). As labled in the pic, the downward 90 Deg elbow coming off the long sideways pipe is where the P-Trap is normally connected to keep black tank gas from venting up into the stall. It should be threaded at the end for the metal P-Trap that is currently connected there, and I believe, when you remove the trap, you can screw on a cap there to cap off gasses. (It's been 7 or 8 years ) You would then cut and dry-fit first, out of PVC pieces and an elbow, the "L" shaped drain to screw on/connect to the shower drain flange coming down through the floor of the shower. (The same one the old P-Trap was screwed on to) Be aware, that you may have to thread the "down-pipe" on to the shower drain flange, before you glue it all together, because you may not have room to rotate the whole assy next to the tank to get a tight fit. On another related note, If a tank is really damaged, I believe you can still get a replacement (it's been 7 or 8 yrs ) here in California. (technical drawing below) I'll pm Linda, aka the oracle, with the whole catalogue for the archives. Stay well everyone, BR, TG
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