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Everything posted by ToyoGuy

  1. New product from Murphy Inc. Concrete cinder block for anchoring vent-handle not included....
  2. Thanks WLK, LCE is, in fact, at the top of the list with 2 others so far. Need to find what their install charges are. Everyone who builds likes it best when you use their guy or shop to insure a smooth and competent install. I am however, surprised to observe the difference in guarantees for stock or level 2 builds at this point. It certainly seems to highlight the amount of faith that builders have in their product. Thx, TG
  3. Thanks mpanzar, I checked their website and I like that they offer stages of performance. I'll put them on my "to call" list. What level did you buy in at and what did you do with your motor when you did the switch? Thanks, TG
  4. Well, Jim at the 22RE Performance shop is booked-up for the unforseeable future for rebuilds, and there's no one else local that's looking promising to me anymore. I've got no room/time to do the work myself, so I'm looking for a top-drawer rebuilder. Does anyone have any actual experience with LC Engineering stock 22R/RE motor builds and or installs? How about D.O.A. ,( also in AZ) ? They show a "22R – 22RE (motorhome/cab & chassis) 150 HP – $3,750",... ( heck, is that 150HP even possible?) YotaShop? Any other suggestions for a high-quality motor rebuilder? Thanks for any recs, BR, TG
  5. I'm with you WME. This is about the cleanest Chinook (all the way through) that I have ever seen (except Nolan's, which are essentially are hot rod sleds) That being said,... I noticed this comment below the offering: " sold on BaT, sold again, and now being auctioned again, all within 3 years". I wonder why? Also, for us California types, trying to get smog on this stuff can be a mechanical and DMV nightmare. Not sure I could drive something that loud for hours, but it did seem to pull admirably uphill in 5th gear at about 1:58 in the driving video ! Cool vintage air-conditioner. Already up to $15K....good thing I'm poor... Hmmmm, lotto ticket, y'say? BR, TG
  6. Sorry, still running stock Aisin. Can't help you with the Webber. My rigs off-site anyway. Maybe someone else out there can help. Good luck TG
  7. The pricier 4x4 rig looks pretty tight and it looks like the seller's an experienced builder. Just over 500 hours seems like a miracle to me, but I guess it's possible. Having used DuraBond, I wouldn't employ it to anchor cabling on a roof, it's messy to pull up and sometimes takes up what it's glued to as well. I'm always thinking about the "next guy" when I can, 'cause sometimes he's me! : ) Also, being an 18 footer guy, I always wonder what that extra 3 feet of of cargo space, and what it gets filled with does to the performance of a 105 hp motor. I mean, you start out significantly heavier drive train-wise with a 4x4 right out of the gate. I wonder what she weighs in at? Clean lookin' that's for sure. Not much said about the frame, rust etc for an mid-west truck. Anyone had any experience with the Durabak paint product he's impressed with? I'm wondering about their gloss product, not the "bumpy" bed-liner that I wouldn't want as an all-over paint job. Always thinkin' BR, TG
  8. "they are not to be found... " You'd think that after all this time, I would have known better than to have made such a foolish statement in present company. Thanks Linda, I'm on it. TG
  9. Ah, more is revealed in the thread! It is an Air Silencer/ Resonator box! I guess it blocks the "hiss" of the intake and resonation of the air-cleaner chamber at certain RPM's... Good thing I don't need one, they are not to be found...
  10. Thanks Linda, I wonder what's inside?, or if it's perforated, since I don't own one because my coach battery used to be there. (before I converted to 6 V deep cell x 2 in the back) Might have to call Yodaman on this one.
  11. Howdy all, I am consulting the collective oracle of older carburetor-types in search of the purpose of this mysterious "air-box" device, ( behind radiator overflow bottle and next to white arrow in picture). I am in currently doubt of it's actual usefulness on a well-tuned 22R motor assembly and I am just running the stock plastic flex-pipe off the air filter out to the front of the grille, next to the radiator. Thanks for any informed thoughts or speculation. BR, TG
  12. Whatta great idea WME ! It's out there "basking" on the lawn right now. (Now why didn't I think of that?? ) I read somewhere that age conferred wisdom, now I'm not so sure. I also forgot where I put the book I saw it written in. Thanks, TG
  13. Thank you Greg! As they say, "you don't miss your water, 'till your well runs dry... Current biz at hand: After 5-6 yrs, of decent service, I will (again) be replacing the vinyl trim mold on the coach seam of my 18' SunRader due to discoloration and long-term shrinkage etc. I am wondering how much "extra" length others have initially left, over and above exact length, to allow for initial / eventual shrinkage after installation. I think last time, when I used the thinner stuff, I left about an inch extra, and was surprised how it disappeared after about a day or two in the sun. Through trial and error, I also know the mistake of pulling or stretching the stuff too much when installing it. Note that I opted for the ebay"Furniture Lady's" thicker stuff. ( and I bought 75' of it this time ) Good to be back in touch, BR, TG
  14. At 1.6L, that's about 78 hp, unless my research is skewed? At least it has fuel-injection, but still,..... I didn't see a vehicle weight listed in the offering. It must be the only vehicle a well-tuned SunRader owner would race for pinks.
  15. Hi Kyla, Here (Below) is your tank, in the wild. If you really want to do this, you will need a capable handyman, (or woman) who has some plumbing experience, some WD 40, plumbers-tape, probably a strap-wrench and others, and assorted 1 1/2" pvc fittings and glue, a drill to mount the brass hose-fitting and an afternoon. A judicious allotment of beer might help with the handyman... Oh yeah, and emptying black-water tank helps too.... If you're motivated and still game, as Linda said, you could complete the re-routing for the shower like Greg and I, but you still need to cap the PVC pipe currently draining to the black tank or you're going to be in for some serious stinkage and possible danger, depending on your octane rating. The block you see on top of the tank is for venting black-tank sewage gas (pointing up) and accepting the shower drain-off (pointing sideways). As labled in the pic, the downward 90 Deg elbow coming off the long sideways pipe is where the P-Trap is normally connected to keep black tank gas from venting up into the stall. It should be threaded at the end for the metal P-Trap that is currently connected there, and I believe, when you remove the trap, you can screw on a cap there to cap off gasses. (It's been 7 or 8 years ) You would then cut and dry-fit first, out of PVC pieces and an elbow, the "L" shaped drain to screw on/connect to the shower drain flange coming down through the floor of the shower. (The same one the old P-Trap was screwed on to) Be aware, that you may have to thread the "down-pipe" on to the shower drain flange, before you glue it all together, because you may not have room to rotate the whole assy next to the tank to get a tight fit. On another related note, If a tank is really damaged, I believe you can still get a replacement (it's been 7 or 8 yrs ) here in California. (technical drawing below) I'll pm Linda, aka the oracle, with the whole catalogue for the archives. Stay well everyone, BR, TG
  16. Wow, there's some clean work on that rig. Someone took some time and weasle-hides to get this far, that's for sure. Nice paint job ($), great ladder, robust front strut design. I do miss the signature front wrap-arounds though. I'm wondering what the exterior louvered panel to the left of the driver's side fridge vents is for? "Keeps up with modern moterhomes in the passes " Hmmmm, is there a nitreous bottle hidden under the driver's seat? Which reminds me, wonder who did the motor, or if it's original, not much said about that. I do like the slanted Ventline vent-covers on the roof. If you know what you want, and it looks like this guy did, giving up the lower bunk real estate is OK, but personally, I got tired of jumping out of the upper bunk at night to answer nature's call. Also,for the trade-off, definitely only a table for two. Cool looking shower setup, but no mixer, cold only? I wonder if there's storage in those corners behind the pillows of the rear dinette? The traded-out rearend sounds pretty cool. On single wheels, as always, I wonder what a rig weighs in at. A nice offering and one of a kind, that's for sure. GLWTA, BR, TG
  17. Clean / irrigate cracks or breaks with denatured acohol or naptha. You would do well to find a mirror or piece of glass to set the pieces on, especially if they are in 2 or more pieces. This will keep the lense / repair flat. Use wax-paper to lay the repair on and keep from gluing the lens to your flat work surface. Carefully wick / drop water-viscosity super-glue into the cracks. It will take less than you think. (Hobby stores sell the glue and little wick-tips for the glue bottles to control the flow) When you're done, re-install the lenses carefully. If you over tighten them, you'll likely crack or break the corners again. They will glue well, if clean and well aligned. You can buff them carefully by hand with McGuires before you install them, if you want. BR, TG
  18. Welcome Morgan, Anyone from the home of Leo Fender is welcome in my tribe! Your plan sounds like it has all the right ingredients and location. I've had my SunRader 18 footer for about 7 or 8 yrs and it's been just right for my adventures. I also got woke up and found out that it's always "now" about 9 yrs ago,...... I'm just amazed that I don't always remember it. My daily driver for the last 15 yrs.has been an '85 22RE Xtra-cab. You'll fit just fine in a Toyo-based rig (and the troop here). BR, TG
  19. Hi Erica, The way I removed the plywood from the ceiling/coach walls was to borrow a 4'" battery circular saw (Makita?) and set the depth for 1/16" less than the thickness of the plywood, and make cuts every 2" or so down the plywood strips. You can then take a sharp 1 1/2" chisel and hammer, and knock those 2" chunks off (carefully). It sounds like a lot, but it may surprise you how easily some of the old material pops off. When you get next to a wall, after working across the ceiling, put something behind the plywood you are knocking the chunks out of, to keep from putting the chisel thru the corner of the wall after it cuts out the chunk. To remove the remaining 1/16" ply stuck to the ceiling, use a disc-sander w/80 grit or an angle-grinder w/a 4" #80 sanding disc (Harvard Freight $20?) A fan inside the coach may help. Hint: Buy a Tyvek zip-up suit for $8-10 so you don't get sawdust and ground fiberglass down your back and a good respirator mask for the fiberglass dust. BR, TG
  20. 2 hours old so far, heck, the axel and rims are worth it. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/rvs/d/kelseyville-1987-toyota/7319243641.html Good luck to somebody :) BR, TG
  21. Hey htioki, Been driving 22R and 22re's for 25yrs now, been through 6 engines from LA to Sacramento and even shopped Oregon, but never heard of these guys. For what it's worth, the prices seem too low for a premium engine rebuild. 7 year 70K mi guarantee seems a bit "wishfull". I have thrown the dice and lost on motors with pro-looking shops and great guarantees before, myself. Remember this, if the ship hits the sand, after small claims court, even if you win, you still gotta get them to pay up . Ask me how I know.... Besides inexperienced/bad labor, the most common way substandard shops save $ to offer a cheap motor is using Chinese parts. I've seen Chinese cams that looked like they were 30-50K mi old that got pulled out of a motor with less than 3K miles on it. Ask around in 4WD and crawler forums down there, they run their motors hard. There's got to be a solid motor builder that close to the desert. Remember, the only time a Toyota RV motor ever sees an easy day, is when it's parked. I would consider buying from a reputable premium shop and having it shipped, then installed by your trusted mechanic. These guys are an acknowledged shop at the top of the food chain up here nearby in Chico: https://22reperformance.com/#youmadeit My buddy has one of their motors and it's a thing of beauty. Just my opinion, buy the best and only cry once. Good luck, BR, TG
  22. About price...I used to do fabrication of prosthetic limbs using carbon fiber and CF's raw material cost is about 5 X that of common fiberglass. However, the big ticket item is the equipment and setup for the shop. The equipment setup to lay up, bag and vacuume mold a single-piece shell this big will have these guys eating humble pie for some time into the future. While carbon fiber impressive stuff to use in certain applications like aircraft and hybrid parts for race cars, in my opinion, it's way overkill for a coach shell (Bling!!), even for an overland motorhome.
  23. Thanks Jim, I will remember Derek and use what he taught me. BR, TG
  24. Well now, hmmm. Checked out their website and several things occur to me as a 4x4 Rader guy. First of all, like Linda and grtthegrt said, astronomical base price. Here's my observation on that : The dealer receipt written to the original owner of my stock, no extras SunRader 4x4 shows he paid paid $26,000 and chump-change out the door. (Side Note: The guy's mustering-out retirement papers for the USAF, stuffed in the plastic owner's manual folder, were dated the same day as he picked up a new SunRader 4x4. Gotta admire a guy with a plan ) Using an online inflation adjustment tool, it turns out that his/my rig would cost $64,765 US weasel hides today. Now, even if I consider the additional solar, increased tank capacities, the more "inspired" 4wd capabilities, Lithium battery bank and the truly obnoxious weather-proof speaker system they offer to piss-off people down-the-canyon, the extra $220,235 smackeroos would take care of all that and still give you a down payment on a decent house in 45 of these somewhat united states. It seems SunRader gave bang for the buck in 1984 that a middle-income family could manage with some relative financial effort. Some other stuff, ....the TruckHouse is 4' longer than a 4x4 SR, which could make it a little bit more challenging to squeeze in to some places and, at Stage I chassis mod, is 10' high. That allows head room for a 6ft 3in person, a definate advantage. BTW, the floorplan is identical to my 'diner-in-the-back' '84. Here's a bunch more, BR, TG : KEY SPECIFICATIONS Chassis: Toyota Tacoma Length: 21'11" Height: 9'11" Width: 7'1" Interior Standing Height: 6'3 1/2" Ground Clearance (@rear diff): 11" Approach Angle: 39.5° Departure Angle: 19.5° Breakover Angle: 24.2° Wheel Travel: 12+" Solar: 600 watts Battery: 500 amp hours Fuel Capacity: 33 gallons Fresh Water Capacity: 30 gallons Grey Water: 20 gallons Features: Cabover Queen Bed and Rear Dinette Full Bed Integrated Hydronic Heating 7 Safari-Style Dual-Paned Windows Oversized Skylight Integrated Blinds and Screens Multi-Speed Ventilation Fan Stainless Galley Sink Convection Oven/Microwave Two Burner Induction Cooktop Marine Grade Drawer Fridge and Freezer U-shaped Rear Dinette Wet Bath With Cassette Toilet Dimmable LED House Lighting Swivel Mounted 32" LED TV* Power Management System Lithium Battery Bank Luxury Woven Vinyl Flooring 12v Air Conditioning * Heated Floors* Truck Cabin Access via Passthrough *Optional
  25. Welcome JJ, I'm not a Dolphin guy, but if you could submit some photos of the problem area, I think one of the other members could give you some input, or hazard a good guess about the location of the tops of the bolts you want to locate and how to get to them. I will say I think it might get old pretty quick making that first big step up without the bolt-on unit, unless you have a replacement-step plan. Meanwhile, if you're still dedicated to the plan, I'd be squirting some penetrating oil up onto those frozen nuts in prep for removal. If they are REALLY frozen, you're likely talking Sawzall and a nice new and sharp blade or a "nut-splitter". Note that, either way, you will still probably need to find the offending bolt heads . Hard to say without pictures and knowing the final objective. BTW, if you're not mechanically handy, best to conscript someone handy for these tasks and pay for brews and/or pizza. BR, TG
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