bikeforthelight Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 I have an 85 Dolphin and my drivers side rear dually wheel bearing is on its way out. I am on the road currently and don't have tools with me to do the job myself. How much would I expect to pay to get this taken care of? Is it a job that any shop can do or should I go to an RV shop? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 Do you have the 5 bolt with faux duallies, or the 6 bolt?? The 5 bolt may need an axle too. The six bolt can be done from the outside with out draining the differential. The labor should be close to the same but parts will be more for the six bolt, unless the 5 bolt needs the new axle then its way more. You main problem may not be how much, but who will do it. No idea at all about a "fair price" sorry. Depends on state and town where your stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChairmanMeow7 Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 I have the 6 bolt rear end. I wanted to have my bearings replaced as a precautionary measure , as I know my 86 Winnie sat for quite a bit before buying it 2 years ago (it only had 43,000 on it). My local mechanic claimed he had to pull the whole meatball apart and it was going to be an 8 hour or so job. He said if it is not making any weird noises or grinding sounds , to just drive it. (Iv'e put about 10k on it in the last 2 years with no problems). Does this sound like he just didn't want to do the job or maybe he was mis-informed (or is this really that big a job) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodybagger Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 (edited) If you have the full floating rear axle, the outer bearing set is 17.99 from autozone and the inner bearing set is 14.99 from autozone. You'll want a new axle seal which is about 6 dollars. It should take no more than 2 hours time for even the slowest, laziest mechanic, including problems with the dreaded cone washers. I've re-packed mine (which takes more time than replacing them since you have the extra step of meticulously cleaning the old ones) and the whole process took me 1 hour per wheel, and 30 minutes to get the stuff from the auto parts store. Assuming $60 per hour, you are looking at $140-$200 tops after they mark up the parts. You do not need any special tools despite what the manual says. You can remove the bearing nut with a hammer and a screwdriver. I strongly recommend the new ones be packed with Valvoline SynPower synthetic wheel bearing grease. Also, beware of inexperienced mechanics screwing up the cone washers. A little WD-40 and a GENTLE hammering from an air chisel gets them right out. Better spray the WD-40 on ASAP so it can soak. See the attached PDF. Now, if the axle is not the full floater, you probably have a damaged axle and you are in serious trouble. If that's the case, fix it, jettison all unnecessary weight, and limp home slowly on smooth roads. Then look for a full floater. 1ton_bearings.pdf toyota_front_hub_and_bearings.pdf Edited May 31, 2009 by Bodybagger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 Regarding the cone washers, I have had good luck with using a socket, that is I place a socket (like a 14mm) over the cone wash and then give it a soft to medium hit. The nice thing with using the socket is that the cone washers fall into the socket and not on the ground. Also, I have had good luck with rear axle parts (seals) at Advanced Auto part stores. Dennis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChairmanMeow7 Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 I called both Auto Zone and Advance and they both told me they could NOT look up parts for a 1986 Toyota MH. I would NEED to have part numbers.... So I told them to look under 1 ton chassis with dualies. Said they couldn't find that either. I was able to get a set of bearings and seals from Napa. $140 for all.... Kinda HIGH , no ????????? As far as the full floater , I beleive I have it. It has the center hub that sticks out with 6 small nuts on the center hub. It also has the 6 lugs on the wheels. This would be the "full floater" , correct ??????? And why is it that NO one seems to want to do this job (saying it is a huge job or whatever) ?? My old mechanic didn't want to do it and my current mechanic claims it is an 8 hour job and the meatball needs to be pulled apart .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodybagger Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 (edited) I called both Auto Zone and Advance and they both told me they could NOT look up parts for a 1986 Toyota MH. I would NEED to have part numbers....So I told them to look under 1 ton chassis with dualies. Said they couldn't find that either. They've got to search under Toyota Pickup at Advance and 2WD RN Truck at Autozone, then you can specify dual rear wheels. I was able to get a set of bearings and seals from Napa.$140 for all.... Kinda HIGH , no ????????? About right if you got 2 large bearings, 2 small bearings, 2 small races, 2 large races, and 2 axle seals for doing driver and passenger side. Very expensive if you just got the stuff for doing one side. Are they Timken name brand? As far as the full floater , I beleive I have it. It has the center hub that sticks out with 6 small nuts on the center hub. It also has the 6 lugs on the wheels. This would be the "full floater" , correct ??????? Yes. You lucky dog (or should i say cat?), you have the heavy duty axle. And why is it that NO one seems to want to do this job (saying it is a huge job or whatever) ?? My old mechanic didn't want to do it and my current mechanic claims it is an 8 hour job and the meatball needs to be pulled apart .... Because they are used to working on cars. You DO NOT HAVE TO PULL THE MEATBALL OUT. Full floating axles are not held in with c-clips. They just pull right out once you get the cone washers out! Servicing the wheel bearings on this particular axle is almost EXACTLY like doing it to a Ford F-250/F-350 truck or E-250/E-350 van. The only difference really is the Toyota has cone washers and the Ford just has bolts/lockwashers. Take it to a Ford Truck mechanic and show them the PDF file and tell them it's exactly like the Ford axle. They'll know what to do. Edited May 18, 2009 by Bodybagger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 Simple job easier then the fronts nothing in the way take it to some one that knows what they are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 I called both Auto Zone and Advance and they both told me they could NOT look up parts for a 1986 Toyota MH. I would NEED to have part numbers....So I told them to look under 1 ton chassis with dualies. Said they couldn't find that either. I was able to get a set of bearings and seals from Napa. $140 for all.... Kinda HIGH , no ????????? As far as the full floater , I beleive I have it. It has the center hub that sticks out with 6 small nuts on the center hub. It also has the 6 lugs on the wheels. This would be the "full floater" , correct ??????? And why is it that NO one seems to want to do this job (saying it is a huge job or whatever) ?? My old mechanic didn't want to do it and my current mechanic claims it is an 8 hour job and the meatball needs to be pulled apart .... Tell them its a V6 1990 1 ton axle with dully wheels. They are trying to look up a 1 ton 1985 and there was none. There is also no such thing as a toyota motor home in the parts books, always specify "Pickup". Your axle was put on later. Maybe someone can tell us the first year of the 1 ton full floating axle, as that is probably the year yours was installed by national dolphin. And the mechanic you talked with (8 hours) apparently needs to brush up on some knowledge because as everyone says, the third member (meatball) does not need to be dropped out to service the bearings. That's why its called a full floating axle. The axle shafts float inside the meatball and the hubs. A note here, all the 1 ton axles are the same 8 inch gear package as the V6 pickups. The third member is interchangeable with the V6 pickups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodybagger Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 Tell them its a V6 1990 1 ton axle with dully wheels. They are trying to look up a 1 ton 1985 and there was none. There is also no such thing as a toyota motor home in the parts books, always specify "Pickup". Your axle was put on later. Maybe someone can tell us the first year of the 1 ton full floating axle, as that is probably the year yours was installed by national dolphin. 1986 is the first year dual wheels show up as an option on the Autozone catalog. Go to Autozone.com Enter vehicle as 1986+ Toyota RN(4cyl)Truck 2WD Engine irrelevant Go to DRIVETRAIN Go to WHEEL BEARING - REAR NARROW SEARCH in upper right corner to "Full-floating (Has a hub sticking out of center of the rim)" The options that come up are: *Part# SET47 Timken Wheel Bearing - Rear Application: With dual rear wheels/Full-floating (Has a hub sticking out of center of the rim) Notes: Outer set $17.99 *Part# JLM104948 Timken Wheel Bearing - Rear Application: With dual rear wheels/Full-floating (Has a hub sticking out of center of the rim) Notes: Inner Bearing $14.99 *Part# JLM104910 Timken Wheel Bearing - Rear Application: With dual rear wheels/Full-floating (Has a hub sticking out of center of the rim) Notes: Inner Race $4.99 You will also want to look under related parts for a wheel seal. Narrow search again to dual rear wheel application. *Part# 710076 Timken Wheel Seal - Rear Application: With dual rear wheels Notes: Outer $13.99 *Part# 226285 Timken Wheel Seal - Rear Application: With dual rear wheels Notes: Inner $5.99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChairmanMeow7 Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 The bearings I got at Napa were SKF brand. Is this a decent brand and as good as Timkin ? Also , I got 2 complete bearings and the other set is 2 bearings and 2 races. Also 4 seals , 2 large Napa (Chicago Rawhide) seals and 2 small SKF seals. And again , they got me for a total of $147 for all of this out the door (with tax). Sounds like I might be able to save some money by giving Auto Zone a call ! BTW , THANKS for the part #'s Bodybagger !! Hey just a $30 or so savings equals a tank of gas ! So there's NO special tools needed as per the PDF file ? If this is not really that big a job , and NO one really wants to do it (and I have had 2 mechanics pass on it already) , I may just have a go at it myself. I hope someone will be "available" online , just in case I run into a little problem. (I'll post the day I am going to do this and maybe someone could check in on my progress/questions ?). Did you all go throught the steps of checking the runout of the shaft (probably not a bad idea) or even magnafluxing the shaft to check for cracks (may not be a bad idea either). How do you find a place to do the magnaflux check for you (or what type of business do you search for in the phone book ?). I know how to check the runout (.079 max) , but not quite sure of what they are asking to have you check the distance from the housing to the lock bolts (.008 to .035). Of course it would probably make much more sense once I got a look at what I was supposed to check here... Also , it says that the axel shaft can run out up to .079 .... This seems like an AWFUL lot , no ?? What about the spring tensioner tool to set "pre-load".... Can a common tool be subsituted or can you "borrow" or rent one from an auto parts store ? It really doesn't look all that bad , but just concerned about the tools ..... I'm pretty sure if I could get some help (if needed) I could accomplish this. I'm just a little concerned about having it apart and waiting (several ?) days for an answer if I get "stuck".. Also , I am really itching to take my 1st trip of the year (possibly this weekend) , just a 2 or 3 day get-away. Maybe 250 miles round trip , tops. I have even considered postponing the bearings until I get back from this trip. But , I really don't know the history of this vehicle , other than it sat a while before I got it. I mean I have driven it 10k in 2 years , and figure it should be good for another 250 miles. But then again , you NEVER know if they are about to "fail" , do you (with possibly catastophic results) ??? Or , will they give you some warning before going (like loud grinding sounds) ? Thanks again , EVERYONE , for all your help ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodybagger Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 The bearings I got at Napa were SKF brand. Is this a decent brand and as good as Timkin ?SKF has been making world class bearing for a long time. They ran a great deal of the bearings manufacturing at Schweinfurt, Germany when it was bombed in WWII (though Allied intelligence used the name of the local subsidiary to make the target sound more German than Swedish. The two raids were historic and resulted in the worst losses in the history of US air power. In aviation, "Black Thursday" refers unmistakably to Oct 14, 1943.See http://www.thirdreichruins.com/schweinfurt.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schweinfurt%E...ensburg_mission http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_Raid_on_Schweinfurt So there's NO special tools needed as per the PDF file ?It would be nice to have a torque wrench and a special socket. You can make a socket that works by purchasing a cheap, large socket (maybe 15 bucks at Harbor Freight or Autozone... such as a large axle socket) with an outside diameter approximately the same as the OD of the axle nut. Using a right angle grinder, you must grind 3 equally spaced slots in the socket to accept the 3 studs on the axle nut. Spacing them 120 degrees is simple... The socket has six sides. Use the hexagon as a guide.You really should have a 1/2" drive torque wrench for this baby. It's the best way to ensure your lug nuts are equally tight, among other things. The one with an adjustable handle that clicks to let you know you've reached the set torque can be had at many Wal-Marts in the tire/trailer/automotive section for 25-30 bucks. Or you can get one at Habor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...?Itemnumber=239 If you don't have that, you can use a screwdriver or punch and a hammer to turn the nut. But I recommend the torque wrench method. Other than that, you will need the following: Heavy duty hydraulic jack. Jackstand Brass drift punch, 1/2" diameter by 6" long will do. Hammer Sharp cold chisel, 1/2" wide will do. 12mm socket and ratchet Lug wrench. Crow bar works well for removing the big seal 2 cans of Valvoline SynPower synthetic wheel bearing grease. 60cc syringe (a "flavor injector" from the cooking aisle at Wal-Mart will work)-fill with grease and inject into the bearing. Takes a lot of the work out of packing them. Or you can buy a conical bearing packer for 6 bucks, but you'll need a grease gun and you'll need a tube of the aforementioned grease in order to use it. But man does it work well! One special tool you will need is a bearing race driver, such as http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=95853 You could try to seat the races with a brass drift, but sometimes this can ruin them. But you only need that if you are replacing the bearings and races. I will say that there is a 90% chance your bearings are OK and just need to be repacked, but you won't know until you get them out and thoroughly clean them in kerosene. If this is not really that big a job , and NO one really wants to do it (and I have had 2 mechanics pass on it already) , I may just have a go at it myself. I hope someone will be "available" online , just in case I run into a little problem. (I'll post the day I am going to do this and maybe someone could check in on my progress/questions ?).I'll gladly give advice. But if you run into serious problems, beware that there is only so much fixing I can do from a keyboard.Did you all go through the steps of checking the runout of the shaft (probably not a bad idea) or even magnafluxing the shaft to check for cracks (may not be a bad idea either). How do you find a place to do the magnaflux check for you (or what type of business do you search for in the phone book ?). I know how to check the runout (.079 max) , but not quite sure of what they are asking to have you check the distance from the housing to the lock bolts (.008 to .035). Of course it would probably make much more sense once I got a look at what I was supposed to check here...Also , it says that the axel shaft can run out up to .079 .... This seems like an AWFUL lot , no ?? I visually inspected for cracks. I have never seen a full floating axle break and the only times I've ever seen them bend is when people install spools for rock climbing. I've never seen a full floating hub break, ever, even in off road construction vehicles. This is not an aircraft so I didn't feel compelled to do a dye penetrant test or magnaflux the parts. I looked down the axles and they looked straight. A trained eye can spot that runout easy. And the runout of .079, though seemingly large, is on a part of the shaft that doesn't t touch anything. It's a non-critical dimension. Excessive runout simply indicates bending due to overload.Also, I DID NOT push out the studs. Again, this is not an aircraft and there is no TBO time on the parts! When one stud breaks, I will replace them all. What about the spring tensioner tool to set "pre-load".... Can a common tool be subsituted or can you "borrow" or rent one from an auto parts store ? I use a $5 fish scale from the fishing section at Wal-Mart. Just hook it to the stud. Drag should be about .5-1 lb. Be sure to note reading after it starts moving. You want to measure the dynamic coefficient of friction, not the static coefficient of friction. It really doesn't look all that bad , but just concerned about the tools .....I'm pretty sure if I could get some help (if needed) I could accomplish this. I'm just a little concerned about having it apart and waiting (several ?) days for an answer if I get "stuck".. Also , I am really itching to take my 1st trip of the year (possibly this weekend) , just a 2 or 3 day get-away. Maybe 250 miles round trip , tops. I have even considered postponing the bearings until I get back from this trip. But , I really don't know the history of this vehicle , other than it sat a while before I got it. I mean I have driven it 10k in 2 years , and figure it should be good for another 250 miles. But then again , you NEVER know if they are about to "fail" , do you (with possibly catastophic results) ??? Or , will they give you some warning before going (like loud grinding sounds) ? Thanks again , EVERYONE , for all your help ! I'll check daily, but personally, I wouldn't worry about them until after your trip. The thing I would do before your trip is get under it and yank side to side on the yoke coming out of the transmission and check for a worn extension housing bushing! If it wiggles side to side even a little bit, DO NOT go on your trip until you get the simple fix. Your rear wheel bearings are probably fine and just need cleaned thoroughly in a parts washer and re-packed. It's the extension housing bushing I would worry about. Problems with full floating 1-ton axles are down the list with Ext housing bushing probably being at the very top. Be sure to look for signs of slinging ATF.Check your messages! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bone Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 SKF has been making world class bearing for a long time. They ran a great deal of the bearings manufacturing at Schweinfurt, Germany when it was bombed in WWII (though Allied intelligence used the name of the local subsidiary to make the target sound more German than Swedish. The two raids were historic and resulted in the worst losses in the history of US air power. In aviation, "Black Thursday" refers unmistakably to Oct 14, 1943. See http://www.thirdreic...schweinfurt.htm http://en.wikipedia....ensburg_mission http://en.wikipedia...._on_Schweinfurt It would be nice to have a torque wrench and a special socket. You can make a socket that works by purchasing a cheap, large socket (maybe 15 bucks at Harbor Freight or Autozone... such as a large axle socket) with an outside diameter approximately the same as the OD of the axle nut. Using a right angle grinder, you must grind 3 equally spaced slots in the socket to accept the 3 studs on the axle nut. Spacing them 120 degrees is simple... The socket has six sides. Use the hexagon as a guide. You really should have a 1/2" drive torque wrench for this baby. It's the best way to ensure your lug nuts are equally tight, among other things. The one with an adjustable handle that clicks to let you know you've reached the set torque can be had at many Wal-Marts in the tire/trailer/automotive section for 25-30 bucks. Or you can get one at Habor Freight http://www.harborfre...?Itemnumber=239 If you don't have that, you can use a screwdriver or punch and a hammer to turn the nut. But I recommend the torque wrench method. Other than that, you will need the following: Heavy duty hydraulic jack. Jackstand Brass drift punch, 1/2" diameter by 6" long will do. Hammer Sharp cold chisel, 1/2" wide will do. 12mm socket and ratchet Lug wrench. Crow bar works well for removing the big seal 2 cans of Valvoline SynPower synthetic wheel bearing grease. 60cc syringe (a "flavor injector" from the cooking aisle at Wal-Mart will work)-fill with grease and inject into the bearing. Takes a lot of the work out of packing them. Or you can buy a conical bearing packer for 6 bucks, but you'll need a grease gun and you'll need a tube of the aforementioned grease in order to use it. But man does it work well! One special tool you will need is a bearing race driver, such as http://www.harborfre...temnumber=95853 You could try to seat the races with a brass drift, but sometimes this can ruin them. But you only need that if you are replacing the bearings and races. I will say that there is a 90% chance your bearings are OK and just need to be repacked, but you won't know until you get them out and thoroughly clean them in kerosene.I'll gladly give advice. But if you run into serious problems, beware that there is only so much fixing I can do from a keyboard.I visually inspected for cracks. I have never seen a full floating axle break and the only times I've ever seen them bend is when people install spools for rock climbing. I've never seen a full floating hub break, ever, even in off road construction vehicles. This is not an aircraft so I didn't feel compelled to do a dye penetrant test or magnaflux the parts. I looked down the axles and they looked straight. A trained eye can spot that runout easy. And the runout of .079, though seemingly large, is on a part of the shaft that doesn't t touch anything. It's a non-critical dimension. Excessive runout simply indicates bending due to overload. Also, I DID NOT push out the studs. Again, this is not an aircraft and there is no TBO time on the parts! When one stud breaks, I will replace them all. I use a $5 fish scale from the fishing section at Wal-Mart. Just hook it to the stud. Drag should be about .5-1 lb. Be sure to note reading after it starts moving. You want to measure the dynamic coefficient of friction, not the static coefficient of friction.I'll check daily, but personally, I wouldn't worry about them until after your trip. The thing I would do before your trip is get under it and yank side to side on the yoke coming out of the transmission and check for a worn extension housing bushing! If it wiggles side to side even a little bit, DO NOT go on your trip until you get the simple fix. Your rear wheel bearings are probably fine and just need cleaned thoroughly in a parts washer and re-packed. It's the extension housing bushing I would worry about. Problems with full floating 1-ton axles are down the list with Ext housing bushing probably being at the very top. Be sure to look for signs of slinging ATF. Check your messages! About the axel removal.. i am only changing the seals so What difference in the proceducure from changing or re packing the bearings? What size are the 2 service bolts that you screw in to get the axel out after you remove the bolts and cone washers? Do you need these or does the axel come out after you remove the cone washers? Tom H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodybagger Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 About the axel removal.. i am only changing the seals so What difference in the proceducure from changing or re packing the bearings? What size are the 2 service bolts that you screw in to get the axel out after you remove the bolts and cone washers? Do you need these or does the axel come out after you remove the cone washers? Tom H If you are changing the seals, you'll be taking the hub off anyway, so clean and re-pack the bearings while you're in there. As far as the service bolts go... The threads are generally so rusted up that you'll need to run a tap into them to clean them up beforehand. If I recall correctly, they are 6mm x 1mm pitch. You'll need 10.9 grade bolts and it might be a good idea to take a Dremel and a cutoff wheel and score a longitudinal line through the threads of the bolts to act as a cleanout so the rust doesn't develop a jam fit. Oh, if you can get the cone washers out, the only thing holding the axle in is the gasket. But it might adhere pretty tightly. The bolts are the best way to get it out if this is the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdrhound Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 Wow, Bodybagger, Excellent answers. And ChairmanMeow7, fine questions. Thank you. In my experience, bad wheel bearings will make a rumbling sound while your are driving. If one is really bad, the rumbling will be louder during cornering. The increased sounds will drive you crazy long before they really fail. I am replacing the rear (non-relubeable) bearings in my Subaru (198K mi) tomorrow for that reason. They did the same thing at about 110K mi., and the front bearings also have had to be replaced. I may drive hard. You cannot miss the rumbling sound. Volume increases with speed. With my '78 Datsun P/U, by the time I finally had it fixed the bearing the roller's cage was mangled, so the rollers were loose and the races were chipped and cracked. It would do some good clunking too by this time. I wonder why the axle did not fall out. Probably needed the rollers to fall out first. They were close. My point is that I had long ignored the loud rumbling and the clunking. Young, stupid and broke. If I had fixed it when I first heard it, there would not have been any potential problem. But I ignored the loud rumbling coming from the back of the truck..... Thankfully it was an empty truck, not one that is permanently overloaded by a ton. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ben333 Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Hi I checked my rear break (86 new horizon)today and noticed a lot of differential oil over the drums and every thing! Suppose the seal is broken. Ordered from auto zone the seal and the two inner and outer bearings(hope fully they get me a right one). Can any body share how the inner Axel comes out? I have attached a photo of the Axel after the tires are removed. Thank you guys. I probably spend more time fixing the toy than actually use it :~) Best regards Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodybagger Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Sorry it's been so long, guys. Life gets in the way sometimes. Ben, as you've probably learned by now, you have the dangerous axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 On 5/12/2011 at 3:00 AM, Guest ben333 said: Hi I checked my rear break (86 new horizon)today and noticed a lot of differential oil over the drums and every thing! Suppose the seal is broken. Ordered from auto zone the seal and the two inner and outer bearings(hope fully they get me a right one). Can any body share how the inner Axel comes out? I have attached a photo of the Axel after the tires are removed. Thank you guys. I probably spend more time fixing the toy than actually use it :~) Best regards Ben that is NOT The full floating rear end - that is the rear end axles that were recalled - danger danger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkeckle Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 hi guys, I need help on this subject. The rear right bearing(s?) is (are?) going out on my 1986 Toyota Odyssey. it’s a 1985 Toyota pick up body with the dual rear axles. I need to clarify - I believe it has the floating rear axles, and someone mentioned inner and outer bearings but I can only find outer bearings online and I also read online that typically full floating reels only have one bearing. are there two bearings? Do I need to drain the rear differential to put the new ones in? I’m going to go back and read this discussion again to try to get a better understanding. Please let me know 🙏 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 Inner and outer bearings are the same as front axle on a 4x4. You do have to pull the axle so draining the diff would be a good idea. Also important that you replace the axle seals. Big job https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1986,pickup,2.4l+l4,1277401,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672 Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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