DanAatTheCape

what bob B said. Also the metal framing is not the greatest design but it helps. The AC on the roof is not set into any metal. Most units will see the AC area sagging - as long as no leaks (you will see staining on the inside ceiling)

just looked up the codes - oxygen sensor. btw, you mentioned erratic idling/ checked vacuum line. FYI: there are a LOT of places for a vacuum leak on the VZ3E engine. Vacuum leaks can cause similar symptoms. ALSO - note the the codes generated in pre ODBII engines like these ARE sometimes quite misleading. I would throw an O2 sensor at it - about $100. good news there is only 1 to change. They do go bad and can be hard to diagnose. I

Well, I sold my Toy today. A nice young couple came by - 20 year old - with a dream to explore the USA. BTW, Told them about this forum - if you see Diego and Ali(spelling?) please say hello. I sold it for 9500 with me keeping the Honda 2000. I probably could have gotten more but not into the hassle ( I could not keep it at my condo). It did have a few outstanding issues - relatively minor, but they should be addressed. It was amazing how much crap came out of the cabinets! Sad to see it go, but a new chapter starts.

my guess is a dripping faucet - put a bowl under all your faucets - including any outside shower. btw, I do leave my water system pressurized except when I am actually using it. Also, of you do identify a dripping faucet, remove the knob & outer works, turn on the water pressure for a short blast - one little piece of sand or grit can be the source.

you could try the screwdriver trick. Use a long screwdriver like a stethoscope, google "how to use a screwdriver as a stethoscope" for videos

Thanks for all the kind words. As I move my stuff into the Casita (which has a lot less storage) I have considered listing the Casita for sale and keeping the Toy. The reason I was considering changing is that I like to wander far off the beaten path, Because of the long "tail" I have found myself restrained. With a trailer I can drop it off and then wander. I have also considered a small fifth wheel or a smaller class A & towing a jeep. When I am in Florida I hunt the many WMA's some of which have free campgrounds (boondocking opportunity for those interested in wintering in Florida on a budget) - moving the Toy required a helper to stage vehicles and was a pita.

is weight an issue?

I say nothing.

I am thinking of changing my RV life. Since my wife has left this world I am thinking of trying a fiberglass trailer (Casita), I am looking at one now and then I plan to sell my toy. 1993 Winnebago warrior. 130k miles. mechanically sound. timing belt & valves current, runs & drives good. V6. replaced rear leave springs 4 or 5 years ago - added extra leaf to stock set up. Bilstein shocks. Tires are about 1/2 gone, about 3 years old. Roof AC replaced a few years ago. Frig replaced in 2010 - has always been run level - works great.. Interior in good shape - I have had plastic runners on floor and towels on seats. All Appliance work with one exception - furnace is erratic/ questionable at best. Engine driven AC reworked a year ago - pulls 40 degrees. Actually cools cabin some when underway even on hot days - cab is quite comfy. This is the 321-rb *rear bath* ..Also could include Honda 2000. No pics yet - exterior would clean up good - needs a bath at the moment. Old pic attached. brochure attached. ANY THOUGHTS ON PRICING? 93-MicroMiniWarrior-brochure.pdf

my old heater is cranky - if I warm it up with an electrical heater then it will work. after it works once it is good until it gets really cold again.

interesting - when you look at the amazon as, it looks like it i coming form kankook, but over the right it tell who is selling and shipping.

it aint rocket science - it is a front end. If you are not familiar, get it checked by a reliable mechanic. ball joints, tie rods, bushings etc. it does not have leaf springs or coil springs, it has torsion bars.

the biggest item IMO is water damage. I think that is a "stick built" unit - IF it has had significant water damage, walk away UNLESS you want & like a major project AND get the unit for almost nothing,

i would add levels on the frig cabinet & in the cab. IF you park "unlevel" the process behind the frig can have a blockage - in the worst case it can blow a line & you get the ammonia smell of death - ($$$$ - new frig time). I use the following guidelines - if I have to be stationary for more then 15 minutes and can not get within "one dot" of level I turn the frig off. No worries while in motion. Check your flame after being in high winds - they can blow out. this is what I use: they stick on. I got my camper as level as possible - used a big level on the cabinet over the frig to check, then tuck them on. One set on 2 sides of the cabinet & one set in the cockpit - one on the door and one on dash - I can usually nail it, I carry some woods for the many times where there is no desirable level spot. I have seen these at most rv stores and at some walmarts. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25503-Utility-Trailer-Level/dp/B004ME4MKE/ref=asc_df_B004ME4MKE

I think you guysare talking about different things. DO YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL?