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I promise it will be quick!  
 

I haven’t driven it very far since the rear end 4:88 ratio swap. Maybe 2-3 times around the block. Somewhere I saw I need to drive it for 20 miles and then let is cool off.  Google-fi finds this:  

 

Marlon Crawler

 

New Gear Break-In Procedure
  • After light use for the first 15-20 miles, stop and let the differential cool before proceeding any further. Repeat this process two or three times. ... 
  • Avoid heavy acceleration and don't do any towing during the first 500 miles. ... 
  • We highly recommend changing the oil after the first 500 miles.

 

 

I have to go on a short trip this weekend or next, but it is 37 miles. Kinda seems like that 15-20 and a cool down period is pretty important. I could split the 37 in half there and back and actually get my “multiple trips” in all at once I guess.  
 

Ive never dealt with this before from the “customer side”, so I figured additional advice would be good. It seems either super critical, or really unnecessary…. 

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Everywhere I looked recommended the same procedure. The gears I purchased when I did mine this year recommended the same procedure for break in as well.  I just did it because I did not want to have to replace the gears again due to premature wear. The company I purchased from suggested an ability to tell whether premature wear failure was the result of not following proper break in procedure and it would void warranty replacement. 

 

I read a few hot rod forums where guys were saying it wasn't necessary and they just installed and drove. Ultimately I sided on caution. 

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FWIW Drive around town untill you get 40mi or so on it, lots of stop signs/stop lights. Load both sides of the gears. After the in-town break-in, drain out some rear oil and look for sparkles. No sparkles refill oil to the correct  level. Go for your trip. 

Got sparkles? Oh 💩

"Don't pull a trailer" is going to be tough. You basically have a pickup pulling an 18ft trailer. Just go slow

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6 hours ago, WME said:

"Don't pull a trailer" is going to be tough. You basically have a pickup pulling an 18ft trailer. Just go slow

 

Exactly why I was asking, I had this very concern lol...  It is unloaded at least and the tanks are all empty.  I can take out a few more things too, but I will be adding the spare tire and some tools back in and I am sure that will weigh more than what I do take out...  If I pull the house battery out though I will probably be right about even.  

 

8 hours ago, Scott iv said:

Everywhere I looked recommended the same procedure. ... Ultimately I sided on caution. 

 

Yeah I did a bit more digging and this procedure seems to be the most common one.  I remembered it being just one 20 mile drive in the documentation that came with my kit, but I can't find that lol.  I probably left it with Tom (my coworker) for the torque specs...  

 

 

6 hours ago, WME said:

FWIW Drive around town untill you get 40mi or so on it, lots of stop signs/stop lights. Load both sides of the gears. After the in-town break-in, drain out some rear oil and look for sparkles. No sparkles refill oil to the correct  level. Go for your trip. 

 

I haven't driven it around town any, thinking that heat up and 20 miles specifically was the golden ticket.  But this makes potentially more sense when weighed against the fact it is a heavy beast...  If I don't go this weekend, I will drive it back and forth to work next week and do this. The trip isn't happening on my schedule/choosing though, but when it works for the other person.  

 

Well this trip is the perfect time to do it.  I can get in 4x 17-18 mile cycles in.  I could even do the first leg of it in town in stop and go I guess .  Whatever the case, since a break in is advised this needs to happen before it goes on test drives and gets sold to the next person lol.  Oh and the trip?  It is to go get my next Toy.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Ok I'll throw this out there "how many miles did you drive a new from the factory truck before you changed the diff oil"? Did you take it easy and drive it like a baby?

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An hour at reduced load isn't a big deal. In the grand view of things, last new car was 1000 MI at greatly reduced throttle. Then an oil change and look at all the magnets. After that WOT.   

20 years later and 225k MI still good

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I think he used an aftermarket set. 

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12 hours ago, extech said:

i believe factory ring and pinions are preconditioned 

By driving it on to the ramp truck?

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Well whatever the case, it went nicely. 50 miles or so and zero gold. I had a partial thing of fluid left too so draining out a little was not a big deal. It will continue to get (mostly) gently driven for the next 500, and then I’m sure Viktor will change the fluid again. 
 

Yes, an aftermarket set was used from Motive Gears.  While the break in procedures might be overkill, if they help prevent premature failure even a little, who cares?  
 

HOLY CRAP though!!!  So the 4.88 rear  combined with headers and free flowing exhaust make a HUGE HUGE DIFFERENCE!!!  Like seriously, night and day!  It had no problem getting up to 60 on city streets!  
 

It was WELL worth the effort and cost!

Edited by thewanderlustking
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Lower gearing is the answer to an over worked engine those little engines like to turn that's where their power band is.

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