hamkid Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Rear driver side, looking pretty grim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 18, 2021 Author Share Posted March 18, 2021 Any idea what broke off here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Tail pipe support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 18, 2021 Author Share Posted March 18, 2021 So where do I start? Drain the differential? PB blast everything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott iv Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 What are you looking to do? I have the same machine. I sanded some rust, changed the diff oil, checked the drum brakes, and installed new air bags and shocks, and was good to go. I'm from the midwest so doesn't look grim to me. Just want to treat the rust on the frame at some point. I used Air Lift bags and am happy with them. Others have found replacements that fit your current mounts. Air Lift does not use the same mount as your current bags but the install was not difficult. I went with Bilstein shocks front and back. On the pricier side. I chose not to replace my leaf springs after installing the new air bags. My leaf springs are on the flat side when air bags are not inflated. After replacing my suspension components (except leaf springs) the ride continues to be on the stiff side. Tire pressure is another piece of the suspension equation. Higher pressure provides slightly better mileage, but far stiffer ride. Not sure whether the leaf spring piece would offer a dramatic improvement as I did not go there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 18, 2021 Author Share Posted March 18, 2021 (edited) I want to replace leaf springs. New air bags, possibly with auto air adjustment. Shocks. Possibly replace brakes if the condition they are in is anything like to front ones. Also, the differential gasket needs to be replaced. Replace the lugs on the driver side. Edited March 18, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 WARNING Rear axle lube is the worst smelling fluid in a automobile, wear throw away clothes😝 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 22, 2021 Author Share Posted March 22, 2021 Here’s what the diff looks like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Looks like your about to learn how to change a pinion seal. If the u-joint flange is grooved there is a speedi sleeve available to fix things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 Drain plug 24mm fill plug 19mm whats next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 Is it ok to leave that shaft on the floor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 Thats what they make bailing wire and coat hangers for.😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 So if I remove the assembly, the diff is set inside of it and how heavy is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 The dropout is heavy but can be handled by someone who is expecting the weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 Does it come out easy from the assembly or is it attached? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 The center section, AKA the pumpkin, contains the diff and comes out in 1 piece. You remove the axles first and then undo all the nuts and pull it out. Why do you want remove the pumpkin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 I wasn’t sure if I needed to take it off or replace the seal with it on? I thought there was a seal that needs replacing on the axle side as well? I do not want to take it off if I don’t have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 U-tube is your friend...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xGH8J9YJYs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 (edited) So I went down the YouTube rabbit hole of rear diff videos. Working on the diff seems like a lot of work. I’m just gonna replace the pinion seal, work on the suspension and replace the lugs. Edited March 30, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 Yes don't touch it. Just pinion seal but mind you proper adjustments on that are also important. Mark alignment before you remove old one so you can match it Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 I marked the flanges for shaft and differential. Are there any others marks I need to make? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Here are the directions I was given 10 years ago. Old emails can be a god send No just drop the driveshaft down and remove the flange nut, remove the flange, replace the seal and reinstall the flange and nut. <before removing the nut mark the nut and flange to reinstall them back into the same positions> The nut probably will be of the staked type and will need to restaked upon reinstallation. Use a center punch to make the marks and to remove the staking and to restake on the nut Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted April 30, 2021 Author Share Posted April 30, 2021 Got it off with impact gun. 30mm socket. I’m gonna buy new nut, seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 Yep good plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted April 30, 2021 Author Share Posted April 30, 2021 I got the bolts off for the axle. Do I just pull the axle out or do I have to mark something first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 Just pull it. The 2 threaded holes are for a bolt to go in, as you tighten them they pull the axle. Note there is a thin paper gasket between the axle and hub, try to save it. Remember 2 bearings, 2 seal and hand pack the bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 (edited) Should I consider replacing the breather plug on the diff? Also, what is the deflector and do I need to order it along with a slinger? Edited May 1, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Did you follow the Utube video and count the turns when you removed the Nut?? Crush sleeves are fussy about reuse. I don,t have my FSM anymore, but I think think the deflector is on the back of the drive flange and it keeps the road carp away from the front seal. If its not bent or damaged reuse it. What shape is the slinger in?? If its not torn it should be reusable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 (edited) Didn’t count the turns, it was on too tight. I had to use the impact. I watched some more videos and I think I might be screwed except I have a picture of the pinion that shows how many threads were showing with the nut on. Hopefully it will be alright. I don’t know what the slinger looks like yet, I haven’t got the seal off. Edited May 2, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) Here’s a look at the slinger and bearing. Should i order any? Edited May 3, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 6, 2021 Author Share Posted May 6, 2021 Dealership says my truck uses the one that costs $53. Is there any reason why the one for $31 won't work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 6, 2021 Share Posted May 6, 2021 See where the top one says RN55 HVY. The early dually wheel trucks were not called 1 ton. They were denoted by HVY, aka heavy. So that's the one you want. I did find you a cheapy on ebay though Toyota 90366-30008-77 Bearing | eBay Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 6, 2021 Author Share Posted May 6, 2021 Its all good, thanks. I'm gonna buy the one they told me to along with nut,seal, and breather plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 The nut they sent me is different from the one I removed. Should I use it or return it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 First take the old one to a hardware store and see if you can match it from the grade 8 section. Does the new one fit? Can't really expect it to look the same as 30 years ago but fitting is the main issue. Your old one looks like a flange nut. Is the underside smooth or rippled. Rippled has a locking effect. I don't know how much this new nut cost but I'm pretty sure a hardware store one is going to be cheaper Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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