hamkid Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Install shock absorber to upper bracket. torque 18 ft. lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Install upper arm with shims. torque 72 ft. lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Install upper ball joint to upper arm Torque 20 ft. lbs. support lower arm with jack and connect upper ball joint to steering knuckle torque 80 ft. lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 (edited) Torque upper arm shaft bolts torque 93 ft. lbs. when vehicle is off jack stands Edited January 15, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 (edited) The manual says to install this before the shock absorber. It was easier after installing shock absorber. Install stabilizer bar to frame Connect stabilizer bar to lower arm torque 9 ft. lbs. torque bracket set bolts to frame torque 9 ft. lbs. Edited January 15, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Good for another 30 years! What's with the "ham kid"? Amature radio? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 Tell me yours, I’ll tell you mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 N3LYT SW Maine mountains DC to daylight 40-80 most every night. Been at it for 30 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 Oh I meant what does the profile name “Maineah” mean? both my parents have “ham” in their last names. So I am a ham kid. Also, ham is an acronym for “Hard as a M.F.er”. If I ever get a radio I will check you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 (edited) I know you torqued to specs, but it looks like most of the rubber bushings are under compressed. Also the big nut goes on first and the thin nut (jam nut) is second Edited January 16, 2021 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 Some of the pics were taken without tightening. I will make sure everything is tightened before it drives. what part are you referring to for the nuts, shocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 (edited) The nuts on the upper shock are backwards Edited January 17, 2021 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 5 hours ago, hamkid said: Oh I meant what does the profile name “Maineah” mean? both my parents have “ham” in their last names. So I am a ham kid. Also, ham is an acronym for “Hard as a M.F.er”. If I ever get a radio I will check you out. Well I guess you got two answers and I only got one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 What should I do if the torsion bar isn’t aligned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 Had to remove the bolt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Your are going to have to jack the arm up. It probably will want to lift the truck but should give you enough room to get the adjuster bolt back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) So I lost one of the nuts when I was cleaning it. It slipped out of my hands and the wire wheel tossed it somewhere. Are they both the same bolts? The first pic is what the fsm shows, the second is what the dealer ship shows. The bottom pic is 90170-12004 from Toyota parts deal, is that all I need? Edited January 20, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 I can’t remember if those two nuts were identical... I think the upper one, the lock nut, was slightly shorter, which seems to be what the parts diagram is showing. I’d probably purchase both nuts, for both sides, since they’re pretty inexpensive. They tend to take a beating when removed after 30+ years and you don’t want to round them off! Btw, no sense in tightening the upper locknut down, until you get it all finished, off the jack stands, and complete the ground-to-frame measurements (as seen in manual). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 The fsm diagram shows both are the same. The dealership diagram shows 90170-12004 and 90179-12074 with an asterisk* not sure what that means? The larger nut below them is 90170-12025 and is discontinued and not for sale. I was hoping the fsm was correct and I only need to order the 90170-12004 nut from Toyota parts deal. I took this pic when I took them off. Do the nuts look the same size? I will take a look on the other side and try to confirm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Found another diagram. Shows they both are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 It's a nut. Go to a hardware store and match it. Grade 8 is hardened Linda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 ^ What she said, but its metric so grade 8 = metric 10.9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) do I need any of these tools to adjust measure the hub? Edited January 20, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 (edited) Edited January 28, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 I dunno know, the caliper bore looks pitted even after the cleaning. Is it or is it camera angle.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 There are imperfections on the inside. I was under the impression only the outside mattered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 Nope its the other way around, but clean and painted on the outside is good too. During a moderately hard stop there is about 1500 psi in the brake system. The only thing stopping leaks is the small rubber seal on the brake piston. When you release the brakes the seal flexes back and retracts the brake piston. So every time you use the brakes that seal flexes both ways. Over the life of brake pads that seal will actually move about an 1/2". If the bore in the caliper is not perfectly smooth, the imperfections will cut the seal like sandpaper and soon you will be leaking brake fluid and the braking will be unbalanced from side to side. Professionally rebuilt calipers are in the $30-40 range, in your case I think that would be a good investment. Just remember that you hace a 1 ton C&C NOT a standard 1/2 ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 You recommend rebuilding them or buy new ones? They are priced decent on rock auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 29, 2021 Share Posted January 29, 2021 I thought you had rebuilt them, thats why the "I dunno" comment. The "factory" rebuilt would be a good choice. Looks like they would $35-40 ea. Brakes are very important, do you trust you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted January 29, 2021 Author Share Posted January 29, 2021 I rebuilt them the best I could. I would rather not take any chances. I will make a decision when I get the other side tore apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 29, 2021 Share Posted January 29, 2021 E-bay look Disc Brake Hone. If the inside bore is only a little pitted, a hone will smooth things out. A rebuilder will machine things and use an oversize piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 Finishing up passenger side. I forgot, but I’m pretty sure the washers for the idler arm bracket go on inside of frame behind the nuts, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 Also, remind me again if I grease before or after tightening joints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Doesn't matter. The taper sets the depth long before there is any tension on the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 So I'm gonna purchase reconditioned calipers instead of rebuilding them myself. Should I only purchase ones that are for 1 ton chinook campers, or any 1 ton caliper is ok? https://centricparts.com/part-detail/14144086 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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