extech

isn't the ac... ac powered? battery disconnect shouldn't turn off power to the air conditioner

so at 11:00 freezer at -2f. now at +7f -- 100.4 outside. looks like empty refr changes things, but a new system works well without a fan

didn't get switched to propane last night. felt crappy from covid booster. but checked freezer at 6:30- 101f and it was +9f in there. i think the refer being empty is why the high temp. on propane now, freezer at 2f 101 expected by 4:00

was reading how fridg wouldn't cool in hot weather so i'm running a test. my fridg has a new cooling unit, so older ones likely aren't as efficient. started yesterday with system cooled down to -2f in freezer.. 96 f outside- 5pm refer section at 50 f. on shore power. forgot to check freezer mh in the sun with awning covering fridg side most of the day will switch to propane tonight and report back with results tomorrow.......looks like i could use a cooling fan behind the fridg

i'm going to test mine tomorrow. it's been 105 -107 for days. i did replace the cooling system after i bought the mh

leds need polarity correct. incandesants dont care about polarity

rear o2s is to check system efficiency. not used on old stuff. if your engine runs fat, the cat will make the sulfur dioxide smell

hope you're not in cali. must be carb compliant here.

first thing comes to mind is a bad thermostat

ls your master cylinder a dual unit?. if not your test is valid. again unlikely both front and rear parts of m/c go bad at once. could be something is stopping the m/c piston from returning. if your test shows pressure held in both halves, loosen the m/c mounting bolts to see if pressure relieves

if you plan on keeping it forever there are kits available to convert it to double row timing chain. expensive insurance

this is a great time to do the chain. the head needs to be off to do it correctly

normally head gaskets don't blow from corrosion(electrolosis)unless the cooling system has been severly ignored. usually caused by overheating from another system. dont forget the oil pump seals. very common leak

if it blew a head gasket, there's a reason. once you replace the gasket you need to find the root cause.

impact gun would help alot. so my idea was not so good. always there is more to it

left thread? better source new ones first thing. looks to be a tapered stud. hose the nuts with pb blaster over and over. if you can loosen the nuts, a whack on the outside edge with a big hammer should shoot the stud out. only a guess

i saw a new one of them at a boat show in sacramento many years ago

definintley an exhaust leak. get a piece of hose one end to your ear, move the other end around. i'm sure you'll find it quick

so what are your symptoms?

you could also just use a powered wire from battery and touch the pos side of the light its self. if they all light up its a feed wire from rhe light switch. if it smokes you have a grounded (short) feed wire

first find a good ground- battery neg post- and connect it with a piece of wire to the grounds on the lights and see if they light up.

thanks. i was more worried about damaging the solar unit

i have a grape solar 100w panel i'm putting on my roof. is there a switch setup i need to disconnect from the battery when using shore power or engine alternator. or will it be ok to just connect to the battery

by the looks of it the screws are too long. might have to cut them down

bet it's slower than a toy motor