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About 90Warrior

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    Winnebago Warrior 321RB
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  1. I've not seen a camper van spec'd one of those either. Thats pretty rad. I say it is close enough to count. I remember seeing a handful of those growing up though, it was something else to see a 4wd one lifted on mud tires and a lightbar.
  2. I am an electrician, as far as carpentry goes...making holes in things is bout it. First delving into the task it was a bit overwhelming, but after carefully peeling back the layers you can see how the frame is cantilever? sort of attached over the cab. The marker lights, one of them, was the main source of the leak. After making repairs to the cabover it prompted me to pull and replace/reseal all other exterior lighting and check other seams. Which with that I discovered the back wall was seperating from the floor and one side frame. Pulling off the corner and bottom outside trims let me re-pull the wall tight to the frame with screws and PL marine adhesive. I am of the opinion winnebago put these warriors together pretty straight forward, youve just got to peel the top layer off and look at things.
  3. I think #6 sgx or thhn would work fine in this application. How long is the circuit from unit to power source? If its under 30ft total length #6 should be ok. Since it's DC, and 12v, ampacity will be a bit different than for AC ccts. Voltage drop plays a bit more factor here since we are at a much lower potential than 120vac. I would factor it as wire size as circular mils = (22.2 x amps x one way distance) / acceptable voltage drop Lets say its 15ft one leg run from batt to unit, and 5% Vd is ok. So CM = (22.2 x 60 x 15ft)/0.6 CM=33,300 33,300 circular mils is slightly larger than #6, smaller than #4. Double check nec 310.16 for bare minimum ampacity of cable at X deg C, #6 is just close enough.
  4. It would be nice if ecoflow would provide straightforward electrical ratings for that unit. It shows input sources, various consumption ratings, charge input ratings, runtimes; nowhere yet do I see a rating for amp draw while running. Regardless of its performance or efficiency, having a number for amps at X Y Z input voltages, would provide us at least with some references where to start on the install and powering it in the coach.
  5. My pick for a pickup for this would be a first gen Tundra with the v8. Honestly I think you'de be missing out on the experience though, having a 17-21ft coach on a dually mini toy is like 50% of the fun.
  6. So I probably jinxed myself on another post explaining how the warrior will crank and drive fine. Its a '90 3vze. I go to start it Saturday and let it run, and it turns over and over but won't crank or run. I start troubleshooting. I have spark, but no fuel going to the engine. After discovering I have no fuel flowing, I jump power directly to the fuel pump using B+ and Fp pins on the diagnostic connector under the hood, bypassing the ignition and afm circuit, and the circuit on relay. Fuel pump fire up, truck cranks and runs like a champ. First point to check is fuses...all good, then the circuit openining relay, located in the passenger kick panel tucked flush with the glovebox, I had to remove the glovebox to reach mine. I pull the relay and take measurements across it with no readings. I probe the molex plug and Im getting voltage where Im supposed to on the ignition and afm circuits, and the 12v switch side to the pump. I bypassed at the connector with a jumper, truck runs great. I patched in some generic 12v relays to take the place of the COR and everything works as it should. So, deducing it down my no crank no fuel issue is a bad circuit opening relay thatll need replacing. Figured Ide share this should anyone else with a 1990 v6 toy have similar issues.
  7. I wonder what the final bid is going to be on that. Really clean looking rig. Im sure it being a rhd 4x4...diesel...hilux is going to send the bids sky high on top of it being a toyhome. I wonder sometimes why we didnt get as cool of trucks as other parts of the world, to stick a camper on.
  8. Do you know where that circuit goes that keeps blowing the fuse? Im assuming its for the batt only lighting circuit? Can you move it to another terminal on the panel and see if it pops a different fuse? If it does I would start checking that circuit for faults, see what all is not working and troubleshoot. Also with that circuit unhooked from its terminal, unplug from shore power and see if the unit is supplying voltage out on it open load. Another suggestion is, depending on the converter model, might have a stuck relay that switches output from converter to batt when on/off shore power.
  9. I would be confident taking mine across the US and back as is, well with only slight concern of the tires, but thats why Ive got 2 spares. After inheriting mine I am discovering it is much easier to work on and update than I had imagined. The toyota/nissan trucks they sit on are imho are very reliable and can be worked on. Keep one maintained and itll run until they stop selling gasoline. 110k clocked on mine and its been taken to just about every state in the US and back. It'll crank and run like it was coming off the dealer lot back in 91.
  10. The magnatek units break down into two halves. The upper with the breaker block and DC fuse block, and the lower with the converter charger. I've seen units from mfg's that replace the lower half with a new converter/charger and leave the upper half the same. That may be the easiest case scenario to update. The breakers appear to be BR style? Unsure if theyre plug-on or bolt on, Im assuming not plug on as there is no buss bar in the breaker side. If they're in decent shape I would leave them unless swapping converters requires changing them. It could be an adventure to find replacements to fit. In my case, I pulled my whole power unit out, took it apart, rebuilt/refurbed the converter/charger; the breaker side was melted apart in the past, pulled that out and added pushbutton TM breakers instead. YMMV
  11. Looking at the bumper and frame on my warrior, I don't think it would be sturdy enough to support the full weight of the camper on stabilizers without modification. However, I do have a trailer jack mounted to mine that when let down to touch helps keep the back end from being as bouncy. It's not used to support the camper past that, and its been on there for a long time with no ill effect ive noticed.
  12. I second this. The Everstart batteries at wal-mart Ive always had decent luck with across everything Ive put them in. I think they're still made by Johnson Controls but don't hold me to it. My warrior has a group 24 starting batt, unsure of what fits in the coach batt tray, it'll probably end up with an everstart group 24 deep cycle.
  13. Tagging this to follow. Ide like to see folks suggestions too. I'm in the same situation. I have 2 sets of 4 keys for mine. 1 key for the truck doors and ignition, 1 key for the storage compartments, and the coach door takes two keys one for each lock. Would be nice to bring it all into 2 keys.
  14. Its not turnkey, but there are a lot of open source programs utilizing Raspberry Pi or Arduino and the like, to monitor and control with. A local HAM has a remote setup for solar using open source and arduinos, really impressive. Most all of it could be reconfigured to use on an RV.
  15. The picture doesnt do the details justice. It looks real good this far away, as you get closer though....😅 Its got dents and dings and rusty spots, but overall Ide say its a solid 80% good for 31yrs old. Tools are strewn about, but the inside is in incredible shape to have been used so much.
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