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JaySam

Toyota Advanced Member
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About JaySam

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1985 Toyota Sunrader
  • Location
    Colorado

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    Male

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  1. Ok yeah that's kinda what I thought but good to know, thanks for the info and help Maineah. I think as long as the motor seems ok I'll have them do the head gasket, machine the head, timing chain, guides and potentially cover if it's been worn down and a water pump. Thanks everyone for the advice and knowledge, I'm feeling much better than I was a few days ago lol.
  2. Ok good to know, thanks for the advice and info Fred! I'll probably have them do a water pump even though I can do it myself later, and hold off on a oil pump for now. Are there other components or parts that I should have them check while we're this deep into the motor? Budget is a concern but less so than making sure I do things right
  3. Yeah I figure if i'm going to get the head gasket done it's time to do the other routine maintenence that will be needed at some point anyways, so now I'm thinking of having the timing chain, oil pump and water pump done as well. Although maybe the oil pump is overkill? What's a usual lifespan on one of those? Water pump and oil pump I could also do myself at some point down the road. Is the dual row upgrade worth it if I'm replacing the plastic guides to metal? Is it mostly helping prevent the chain stretch and slap that happens with a single row? I guess I'm not clear on why upgrading to dual row is necessary but would love to learn
  4. Is that the seal right behind the crankshaft pulley? Cause I just did that with a new pulley last week
  5. I thought the reason was the different metals between head and block and old felt gaskets that don't work well to compensate the different expansion/contractions of the two metals. My understanding was the MLS gasket solves this issue; is there something else you may be referring to? If i'm having the head gasket done seems like it makes sense to do the timing chain now as well? I don't think it's ever been replaced so seems like a good time for a new chain and steel guides? Are there any other things I should maybe consider while I'm in there? Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions!!
  6. Hey Everyone, So I was driving through Wyoming when the head gasket went out on my rig. I have a 1985 Sunrader with a 22re with 85,000 miles on it. I'm looking for some advice on what to do going forward. Since doing a head gasket is such a big job and requires so much labor I'm wondering if it's worth just having the motor rebuilt at this point? Or potentially have a new motor installed? The motor seemed decent before the head gasket blew, I had tested the compression maybe a year ago and it was at 135-140psi across all cylinders. But she did get extremely hot and was out of coolant when the gasket blew and I got it pulled over, I'm slightly concerned about warped/cracked head although I was able to limp it to a shop after it cooled down and I refilled the radiator. I'm wondering if I should be looking into rebuild/replacement options or if i should just have the shop do the head gasket, check everything else out while in there, replace what's worn out and move on with the motor I've got. I'm on the fence with this decision and would love some advice on the matter if anyone's got some. Thanks!
  7. I would recommend using gorilla glue heavy duty construction adhesive ultimate for gluing wood to the fiberglass. I tried liquid nailz fuze-all and didn't have success of it bonding wood to fiberglass after letting it sit for a few days. I could just pull the strips away by hand. Also make sure to clean the fiberglass well with acetone before trying to glue anything to it, makes a huge difference in the adhesion and bonding. as for taking down the old ceiling, when i got to that stage i just use a paint scraper and hammer and chiseled the wood strips away from the ceiling. in the few spots i couldn't chisel away i used a sander with 80 grit like toyoguy
  8. I haven't made it over to the scale yet to see but I'm interested as well, I think it's maybe in the 4500 range right now? But honestly I have no idea after gutting and then rebuilding it, I'll try to make it over soon and will let you know when I do! Thanks Rick! Pretty please with it so far, although now that i've rebuilt everything I wish I could do it all over with the knowledge and skills I have now haha. I heard once that your first camper you build for your enemy, your second you build for a friend and the third you build for yourself. Seems to ring true! This is my second btw As of things left to do I still wanna add the upper cabinets back in, finish out the two cabinets with drawers and storage stuff and then put in the flooring. Plus a ton of little stuff but that's the major building left to do. I've only done a couple of short climbing trips so far, but man it's been a pleasure! Hows your rig coming along? Have you been getting out in it much?
  9. A few updated pics on the rebuild, the walls and all the appliances are all in although I plan to rebuild the sink cabinet and finish out the long cabinet on the drivers side. And add cabinets up top, a range top, drawers, shelves and a host of other things still left to do. It's a never ending list but she's in a good place now and it's been a pleasure living in it.
  10. Sorry for the late response, but I would get the wave 8 if it were me. And it was me a few years ago, I bought the wave 6 which worked great in my slide in truck camper but in my 18' sunrader it wasn't enough for comfort in 10 degree weather. You can always turn a heater down if it's too hot, not much you can do if it's not.
  11. It's an instant grab type of glue, I literally just push the furring strip against the fiberglass and hold it there for a few seconds and it stays in place. For the ceiling I used braces to hold things up but on the sidewalls just pressed the wood strip against the wall.
  12. Hey thanks Randy! I tried to jack the floor up before I put the braces in underneath but it didn't really seem to go anywhere. I lost a little over 1" due to floor sag at the sides. Jacking the ceiling up didn't bring the floor up at all, it just raised the center portion of the roof but didn't 'pull up' the floor on the sides at all. I did jack the roof up probably 3 or 4 inches overall; I started by jacking it up maybe an inch, letting that sit for a week and the raising it up another inch. It seemed to let the fiberglass adapt and accept the 'new' shape as I slowly raised it over a few week period. I just kept pushing it up until I felt like I was entering a zone where I would start to crack the fiberglass shell or cause damage to it. It also helps to do it while it's warm out. I think one of the only things I would do differently is add a strip of wool or felt paper between the metal beam and the fiberglass roof, the direct contact between the two materials leaks a lot of heat out. You can see where all the roof beams are when it snows cause the snow melts along those lines long before the rest does. Other than that I've been very happy and pleased with everything. I know what you mean about it never seeming to end, the list only seems to grow sometimes. But keep chipping away at it, slowly but surely things will come together and get accomplished.
  13. I've been using Gorilla Glue's version of liquid nails, Gorilla Construction Adhesive Ultimate and it's been working well holding everything together. The only thing I found that seems to bond wood to the fiberglass shell securely.
  14. I think it's johns manville board insulation or something. I didn't find much on the website either but when I called I just asked if they stocked 3/4" board insulation and they were very helpful. Just drove down and picked up some 4x8 sheets of it. They'll sell however much you want, even if it's just one sheet.
  15. Hi Ernie, Thanks! I did just what you described, I glued furring strips across the ceiling and then screwed the paneling into that. I used 3/4" rigid board foil faced insulation for everything. There's a insulation company in north Denver called Eagle Rock that carries a ton of different insulation and they'll sell it direct to the public, it was the only place I could find 3/4". Would've loved to add more but didn't want to lose the head space either. I found that Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive Ultimate works well for bonding different materials together, it's what I used for all the furring strips throughout my rebuild. Seems to be the only glue I found that will glue stuff to the fiberglass. Heres a few updated pics, I just finished installing the furnace.
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