Vanman Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 The ladder and the U shaped railing around the rear of the roof are both damaged and the holes for the mounting brackets aren't holding much. So I'm thinking since I don't use the roof to carry anything why do I need these???? Much simpler to just get rid of them. Or replace with new... Do all the Toys come with these?? How much do those who have them use 'em??? Your thoughts would, as always, be appreciated.. vanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Vanman, I had the same problem with my roof rack and dented ladder. I just took both of them off, covered the holes with Eternabond tape and coated those areas on the roof with white elastomeric roof coating. Worked great. I did have some qualms about not having a ladder but figured if I have to go up there, I'll use a step ladder or short extension ladder. So far, so good. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Isn't (wasn't?) it Sunrader that the 'rack' was also the TV antenna? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uthorns Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 My Sunrader rail is also the tv antenna. I can't imagine that thin piece of aluminum tubing being any kind of drag for fuel economy. I have both rail and ladder on mine. I don't use the ladder for anything except a rack for my lawnchairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 I used mine once, I tied my second spare tire on the roof during my Alaska trip. On rare occasion, I use the ladder to climb up there and inspect the roof. When climbing the ladder, keep your weight as close to the ladder as possible, this will place the weight load vertically on the roof, rather than horizontally, pulling the ladder away from back wall. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 'Luggage racks' used to be very fashionable. I remember them being on the trunks of Chevy Celebrities and Pontiac 6000s. Never saw one being used to carry luggage, but I did manage to pull one off when using it as a handle to open the trunk. Just held on with course thread screws into plastic inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Isn't (wasn't?) it Sunrader that the 'rack' was also the TV antenna? yep... was the antennae. and guess what Vanman... its the same diameter as standard galvanized electrical conduit. (at least on my sunrader anyway)... Lost my original to a tree branch. a trip to home depot and I had a new one bent in under 10 minutes for less than 5 bucks. The ladder could be done the same. Its much stronger than the thin aluminum. As for mounts, squirt gorilla glue in hole put in screw, done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 It's a Dolphin with a separate rotatable TV antenna that cranks up from inside with a small booster amp. I had used the ladder a few times , but didn't feel good about it. I have a collection of ladders, best one for the RV is the large "little Giant" multi foldable. Since there is no compelling reason to keep them I'll lose 'em with the coach repairing, which is next. I have a really nice, light bike rack made by Subaru for my Outback H6, goes right on the RV receiver with an adapter, big to little, which also helps to clear the spare bolted to the rear above the bumper. Just wanted to see if I was missing something, I've learned a lot from this forum, thanks to all of you.. vanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryRoads Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Well, that answers my question. I don't have a ladder and was thinking of adding one. Now I'll use a stepladder and pray I never need to get up their while traveling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Well, if you ever had a rack up there and chose to use it, no ladder would make it harder for anyone to get up there and steal it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 DEREK you are so right spotted in the woods a big fifth wheel horse trailer rack on top but no ladder big champion generator chained up on top running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 As Baja knows, I have broken every rule of his about "get it done and roll on". I love doing good work on my 18 footer and I hate walking by an older fix a hundred times and thinking "why didn't I get that right" ? Sooo..... Because I really like the Jetsons look of the Rader including racks and wrap-around windows et al, I filled the roof rack old holes, turned the mounting feet and reinstalled them so one set of screws wasn't always sitting in the puddle that inevitably forms in the roof trough when parked. Attached shot shows the underside of the plates before being covered with the last layer of Fbrgls prior to drilling and tapping. I also reinforced all other points of coach mountings for ports, doors, roof jacks, lights etc. (my rig was entirely empty to be fair) I used 1/8" hardened aluminum for all ports, 1/16" aluminum for new LED lights and 3/16" steel plates for ladders and roof rack mounts. I tapped the roof / ladder plates and used stainless socket head screws with a rubber gasket under the roof rack feet. They do not leak,... at all. The discussion of usefulness of the rack is like the functionality of a heater in an early Austin Healey, but I'm in deeper aesthetically than most. Guess I'm just looking at the old brochures too much. I will say that to improve overall strength I also installed aluminum reinforcing bars in the back roof and both sides of the coach without drilling through the sides by glassing them in. It all takes time, but it is a really strong and way better than original coach that looks the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 wow that is soooo sweet. I would be adding 12 layers of kevlar sheeting all around if I had mine down that bare.. may as well make it bulletproof and bug out capable. http://www.pacificbu...ant-fiberglass/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Hmmmm, .. now you got me thinking,....maybe just a level 4-8 Kevlar wainscot from the cab back and the bottom of the windows down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 oh hellz yes. some safe points. you never know; you may need to camp in Detroit or Miami where they get pretty trigger happy. man I might need to tear my camper apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
needsunenergy Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 What about a "roll out" type ladder. One where you attach to the rear roof rail with some sort of hooks that are attached to a rope type ladder. One can keep it tucked away in the camper when away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakthecoast Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 I've seen some rv type ladders welded directly to the rear bumper and then mount flush to the ceiling. I'm searching for this type of replacement ladder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Diesel Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 As Baja knows, I have broken every rule of his about "get it done and roll on". I love doing good work on my 18 footer and I hate walking by an older fix a hundred times and thinking "why didn't I get that right" ? Sooo..... Because I really like the Jetsons look of the Rader including racks and wrap-around windows et al, I filled the roof rack old holes, turned the mounting feet and reinstalled them so one set of screws wasn't always sitting in the puddle that inevitably forms in the roof trough when parked. Attached shot shows the underside of the plates before being covered with the last layer of Fbrgls prior to drilling and tapping. I also reinforced all other points of coach mountings for ports, doors, roof jacks, lights etc. (my rig was entirely empty to be fair) I used 1/8" hardened aluminum for all ports, 1/16" aluminum for new LED lights and 3/16" steel plates for ladders and roof rack mounts. I tapped the roof / ladder plates and used stainless socket head screws with a rubber gasket under the roof rack feet. They do not leak,... at all. The discussion of usefulness of the rack is like the functionality of a heater in an early Austin Healey, but I'm in deeper aesthetically than most. Guess I'm just looking at the old brochures too much. I will say that to improve overall strength I also installed aluminum reinforcing bars in the back roof and both sides of the coach without drilling through the sides by glassing them in. It all takes time, but it is a really strong and way better than original coach that looks the same. Did you make those roof beams I see in the pictures or did they come with the sunrader? And are they slightly arched or flat? I need to come up with one or two of those for mine but I haven't figured out how to put the curve in them yet. I like all the reenforcing you did. Mine's stripped bare too so I'd like to do something similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Glue laminations together with epoxy glue? Sounds like you're making your own plywood. Why not just cut ribs with the desired curve out of a sheet of plywood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Diesel Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 glue laminations is the way to go. Thin strips of wood with epoxy between the layers. If you like you can add some special milled fibers into the epoxy for extra strength. Make a pattern of the curve in the roof. You can do it first with cardboard then transfer that to plywood. Use that as the form to lay up the layers. Set up a series of blocks upright along the curve to clamp your layers to. You will find lots of images and even videos on this technique on the boat building websites and on youtube. They are the experts who do it all the time. That's an interesting idea, then there would also be something to easily screw cabinets, lights, etc. into. Are you picturing the laminate glassed into the roof or just epoxied right to the fiberglass? Have you seen those used as roof supports? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 I've seen some rv type ladders welded directly to the rear bumper and then mount flush to the ceiling. I'm searching for this type of replacement ladder. Seems to me the place that made your front bumper would be the place to have a ladder made. They make awesome stuff for 4x4's and you are a great advertisement for their products. Then you could have it made the way you want and I know it would look fabulous Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 I use my ladder to climb up and test the posts to my solar panel. The rack I tied the wires to my solar panel to . I would never carry something up there and part of it has already fallen off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Diesel Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Yeah I've seen the pics of the factory roof supports, but I haven't figured out how to get the right curvature in the steel or aluminum. I like the glue-lam idea. I'll try and find the West Systems booklet, I have a lot to learn about fiberglass as I've never done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 You can get just about the right amount of curve for a Sunrader roof by using a 1" x 3" piece of wood (the 1 x 3 will be about 3/4" thick x 2 1/2" wide) as long as the roof is wide. At each end of the 1" x 3" measure down enough to reduce the 3" side to 2" and make a mark there. Next measure along the length of the 1 x 3 and make a mark half way between the ends Use a thin piece of wood, commonly called a "batten" (a piece of 3/4" x 3/4" trim works fine) a little longer than your 1" x 3" and clamp it to the mark at one end of the 1 x 3. Go to the other end of the 1 x 3 and clamp it to the other mark. Push the middle of the thin piece of wood up to the edge of the 1 x 3 at the mark you made earlier This should give you a sweet curve from one end of the 1 x 3 to the other end. Drag a pencil along this batten marking a line along the 1 x 3. Cut out this curve with a jig saw or band saw and you've got your curved pattern all set to go. Your Sunrader is probably about six and a half to seven feet wide so this amount of curve gives a small but pleasing amount of crown to the roof. Try it, you'll like it! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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