ndelorimier Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 Hi guys ! I live in Canada and looking to move in the toyhome full time this winter ... I'm ok with heating the living area but having trouble to heat the driver's cab while driving ... either the blower is starting to die or block or maybe they were just not really powerful when made in the 80's ... I really don't look forward to disassemble the front dash to look at it in the below freezing temp that we have now so i'm looking if any of you could give me a heads up ... Do any of you have made that repair ? Do any of you have the schematic or any can tell me the best and easiest way to access the blower ? Thanks a bunch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 I can't help, but knowing what year your Toyota is might get you more precise information. Yes, it's cold, Osti. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 Use your coach furnace. Leave it running while your driving. Be sure to open any curtains separating the cab from the coach. A 12V clip on fan could help push the heat to the front if more is needed. Did you check your coolant level to be sure it's full? Proper antifreeze? A plugged core would involve a fair amount of labor to replace. Definitely not something to do in the cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 I had an 86 Toyota and the heater worked well down to -20. The first thing to do is look at the cables from the control panel to all the various flaps and such, make sure each one does what its supposed to do and hasn't slipped of the lever. Next is remove the heater blower motor and make sure its running at full speed. While its out check the heater core for blockages. In 30 years you never what rat built a nest in the heater box or a pile of leaves has filtered down through the cowl vent. There photos on this site of the junk found in the heater box. You would believe some of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndelorimier Posted December 15, 2017 Author Share Posted December 15, 2017 my rig is a 83 / 84 with the 22r ... i'm currently driving with the furnace on and it't ok but never enough to warm your feet and defrost the window when it's -20 ... Everything seems fine with the control, I hear the flaps doing their work when I switch the positions and I can fell the the flow of air is going to the right place but it's very week ... Any of you know where is located the heater blower ? is it fairly easy to get access to it or it require dismanteling the whole dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndelorimier Posted December 15, 2017 Author Share Posted December 15, 2017 Et Derek ! OUI Il fait frett en TABARNAK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 I'm guessing your fan will be located on the passenger side behind the glovebox. It might be accessible from below or you might have to remove the glovebox. Here's a video for a later truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 i have done this remove and replaced the heater blower but was in 1987 truck same cab as pict above in those you can drop it out the bottem from under the dash. don t lose the screws they are a special breed.cant remember if you have too take glove box out or not .but remove that is not too hard . dont take dash out . there is also a resister mounted on the heater duct controls the speed if blown maybe no fan speeds . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 My experience with the fan speed controlling 'resistor packs' is that usually when there's a problem, the only speed that works is 'Maximum'. Which isn't a bad thing at this time of year in Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 (edited) max would be a lot better then none for shure even where i live . i could not recall the details on that but yes i recall that only cuts in on the lower speeds . had moter freze up before Edited December 15, 2017 by 5Toyota Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 I have an '88 Escaper built on '87 truck. The fan motor comes out without removing the glove box. My fan box was packed totally full by a bunch of mice. One mouse could not haul that amount of garbage. There where leaves, insulation, carpeting, and much more. The fan would not turn at all. After getting all of the garbage out of the fan box, I used a shop vac to clean out all of the duct work under the dash. Some of it I sucked out and some had to be blown out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 is your engine reaching full temperature ? If your engine can not reach normal temperature due to extreme cold, the warm heater air will not be so warm. Have you ever seen trucks with the front of their radiators covered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndelorimier Posted December 23, 2017 Author Share Posted December 23, 2017 Yeah ... thats my second problem that i need to tackle ... temp gauge is mostly never reaching proper engine heat. I Have tested the gauge sender which seems to be alright so i was planing to check if the thermostat was still in place .. Still I wanted to get the low airflow problem first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 This is my AC evaporator from my 93 Sea Breeze. It is not a nest, the evaporator is packed with debris. You don't have AC you say, then your heater core may look like this! This may be a worse case scenario, but most people do not open them up to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 I absolutely can't believe you aren't uncomfortably warm just from transmission bell heat alone if this is a 22re ....while the heater in my 86 rages hot most of the time the floor of the truck is super warm from the sheer punishment being put on that overworked tranny. That does it I need to do an Alaska trip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 Did someone say Alaska? I am trying to convince my wife that we need to take that trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 On 12/15/2017 at 8:13 PM, Bob C said: I have an '88 Escaper built on '87 truck. The fan motor comes out without removing the glove box. My fan box was packed totally full by a bunch of mice. One mouse could not haul that amount of garbage. There where leaves, insulation, carpeting, and much more. The fan would not turn at all. After getting all of the garbage out of the fan box, I used a shop vac to clean out all of the duct work under the dash. Some of it I sucked out and some had to be blown out. Yep the little critters are very fast too, that would be the very first thing I would go after as long as the engine was making heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 Yes check thermostat, some POs replaced the factory stat with a lower temp aftermarket one. This is one place where Toyota OEM is what you need. It should be 195* A 180 will cost you a bunch heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobBeery Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Also check for cold air blasting in from a vent on the right wall of the cab just ahead of the passenger door and below the dash--about shin high. This vent will always be open to the outside and is NOT connected to the cab heat. I taped scrap cardboard over it. Also the inside door release handles usually blast outside air into the cab. I jammed facial tissue in, but every time I open the door from inside the tissue falls out. There was enough cold air to make it worth my while to replace it every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 I took the door panels off and used a plastic garbage bag to seal up the inside of the door. I used some caulk ribbon to hold the plastic in place and then added tape to make sure that everything was sealed. After putting it back together I found that I pretty much stopped the air leaks. I didn't think this up, it was factory original in my 1982 toyota SR5 pickup. I was surprised it was not in my 1987 Toyota one ton. Maybe only in the fancier SR5? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 WME is spot on I have a 195 in my 87 xtra cab and my 87 dolphin the heater will roast you out . but as old as that unit of his if po have not kept up on antifreeze changes the heater core could be blocked internaly I had a 1978 that was like that and a dodge van. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndelorimier Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 Good ! We're starting to get some good weather ( over 0 deg celcius i mean ..... yeaaahhh canada .... ) So i'll do a complete antifreeze flush when i'll check for the thermostat. Up till now i'v been able to plug up a lot of air leak so it helps a lot but still ... happy that spring is on the doorstep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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