candace Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 We just had our brakes bled and fluid replaced two weeks ago.all of the sudden, I lost the pedal yesterday. Having to pump brakes a few times to get the pedal back. Just pulled over and noticed steam coming from under the Hood. Brake fluid was coming oozing from the rubber cap on the brake master cylinder reservoir. I smell a burning smell. What to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 My guess would be that the cap is not tight anymore or your reservoir is cracked. To bleed the brakes requires them to remove and reinstall the cap a number of times. maybe too much for it. Press on the brake and it comes out the top and you don't have the pressure needed for the brakes. Any fluid that comes out the top would fall on a hot engine so that's probably what smells. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Most likely air in the lines. Did they overfill the reservoir?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I agree with Fred. Most likely they did not get all the air out. If there is any trapped air - once you pump the brakes a few times the pedal ought to come up and stay that way as long as you hold pressure on it. If the brake still fades after pumping and holding your foot on it - the master-cylinder is likely bad. If so, don't bother with a so-called "rebuilt" one. There is no way to truly rebuild them. At least not in any "rebuilds" sold for Toyotas. A brand new one is only around $35. Did the mechanic break any bleeder-screws off? This is what commonly happens if a truck is rusty and proper heat isn't used to get them loose. If any got broken off - they might of cheated and tried to bleed by loosening the lines - which will never work correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I would check your front wheel bearings and calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 why did you have the brakes bled in the first place? Having to pump brakes could be caused by several things.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candace Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) Had to bleed the brakes the first time because the fluid boiled going down a very steep gravel road. Just took it in to a Les Schwab Tire in Bend, OR. The mechanic was great. He took the time to investigate and thought it was probably a problem with the brake master cylinder. Turned out the brake master cylinder had a lot of rust on the inside and was not allowing fluid through to the back brakes. So the front brakes were doing all of the work and that's why they were burning. Replaced the BMC $120 parts and labor. I couldn't believe how much the pedal came up and how well it stops now. I just thought these rigs were difficult to stop all this time. Now I smile every time I push the brake pedal. It's the little things in life Edited October 26, 2015 by candace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustrmrk Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Speaking of bleeding the brakes, I'm wondering how it's done these days. Long ago, when I was first taught how to bleed brakes, we would have a helper sit in the driver's seat and pump, then hold down the brake pedal. Attach a piece of clear hose to the bleeder, run it into a bottle of brake fluid, then crack the bleeder till the pedal hit the floor. Helper holds pedal to floor until bleeder is closed, then pump and hold again. Repeat until fluid runs clear w/ no bubbles, making sure the master cylinder stays full and doesn't suck air. Start with the wheel farthest from the master cyl (e.g. right rear) then l. rear, then r. front, then l.front, assuming the master cyl. is on the driver's side. I learned this method about 50 years ago and have stuck with it ever since. Is there a better way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 I learned this method about 50 years ago and have stuck with it ever since. Is there a better way? No better way unless you've got a power-bleeder. I often bleed the brakes when by myself so it's a little more difficult. I jam a rod (wood stick or big screwdriver) between the brake pedal and front seat after pumping the pedal. Then open a bleeder, let some out. Then go back, pump the pedal and jam the stick in again. A real pain-in-the-butt, but if you are by yourself and do not have a power bleeder - it works just as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Had to bleed the brakes the first time because the fluid boiled going down a very steep gravel road. Funny thing about boiling brake fluid. Back in the 80s - Dodge started using plastic pistons in a lot of brake calipers and we mechanics used to joke about how "cheap" Dodge was getting. Then in 1992 - Ford had a recall on their HD trucks for boiling brake fluid issues when used in severe situations. Guess what Ford's fix was? Plastic pistons in the brake calipers. Makes a good insulator to keep high heat from the brake pad reaching the inside of the caliper where the fluid is. Techically the plastic is "phenolic" - same stuff the old rotary telephones were made out of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Air is a gas it compresses the fluid does not. If they were working fine then it's unlikely air caused you problem going down hill it was more than likely heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Solo brake bleeder. Take your clear tube and block 1 end with a screw from you 'misc screw jar'. With a utility knife cut a 1/2" slit just above the screw (lengthwise). This will act as a check valve. Put the blocked end in a jar with some fluid, the other end on the bleeder. Open the bleeder. Make yourself comfortable in the drivers seat and slowly press the pedal to the floor. When fluid exiting is clean and air free, close the bleeder and move on. I've been making and using these (solo) for about 50 years too. The design was passed to my by Alan de Cadenet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 the 50 year old method always worked well fo r us my wife has set inside operating the brake or clutch pedal . which ever we did . what ever you do a through bleeding is a must. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Speed bleeders? I am not recommending these nor do I know anything about them but seems like an interesting idea. Jim http://www.speedbleeder.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2ndopinion Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Brake fluid should be flushed at least once every two years. Brake fluid is "hygroscopic" - that is, it absorbs moisture. That is what causes master cylinders, wheel cylinders and calipers to go bad - simple rust. As for bleeding brakes when alone, here's a trick. Fill the master cylinder, pump the brakes, then, in the usual "starting farthest from the MC, crack the bleeder loose, put a hose (vacuum line works great) on the bleeder, submerge the hose in a bottle with a little brake fluid in it, then go pump the pedal a few times. As the bubbles are forced out, fluid will be drawn back in. I've done it this way for many years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 As the bubbles are forced out, fluid will be drawn back in. Next time you try it, add my DIY 'check valve'. Eliminates contaminated fluid being drawn back in as you release the pedal. And your bleed will go much faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 If your going to flush the entire system replace with DOT5 silicone brake fluid. It has a high boil point and doesn't absorb moisture. I use it for both brake system and clutch. This is what the military use in their vehicles. It is pricy, and you have to be sure you have no residual brake fluid in your system as the two will not mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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