WME Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 Oh well, I've done it on about 6 cars and it worked once. Quote
mtdave2 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Posted September 7, 2015 well the good news is the guys at the trany shop showed be that it was possible to pull the trans without pulling the motor! it is tight as hell but possible! that is fantastic to know it can be done. bad news, they change t converter, and flexplate and I still have a vibration. I changed the dampener and it is still there. so, I guess i must have done something with the new water pump and timing belt. this is really getting stupid, the rig has been done for month just stupid issues that should not be there are kicking my behind. oh well, I guess ill look at the freakin belt again. ugh. Quote
jjrbus Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 When you get it going you can always swap it for a set of golf clubs and a cart! Of course you would be swapping out the electric motor for a knucklehead and never make it to the course. Jim Quote
mtdave2 Posted September 9, 2015 Author Posted September 9, 2015 you makin fun of me? lol would not expect anything less. hey it has only been a year, what did you think it would take lmao Quote
mtdave2 Posted September 10, 2015 Author Posted September 10, 2015 redid the timing belt, it is absolutely correct. still have vibration. sigh Quote
WME Posted September 10, 2015 Posted September 10, 2015 Absolute total WAG from the peanut gallery. 1 Toyota/Lexus had a recall on the harmonic balancer 2 Collapsed motor mount. Good Luck Edit Next time the transmission is out, use a dial indicator on the flex plate center. The torque converter is centered by the bulge in the nose , not by the bolts. A bent crank flange may act this way. No vibration with out converter due to its mass. Quote
mtdave2 Posted September 18, 2015 Author Posted September 18, 2015 well i got a pretty good measure of gas mileage. most the tank of gas was burned floorboarded going up and down the steep mountain pass on i70 west of Denver, or revving in the drive way. also, the lock up for the torque converter isn't working yet (waiting for a part) so, with all of that i was setting at 11.5 mpg.those are good numbers i think. I will try another tank and see if i get similar results. Quote
mtdave2 Posted September 18, 2015 Author Posted September 18, 2015 i re designed my trans mount and dropped it down an inch. helped with the vibration, it is still there but not as bad. Quote
jjrbus Posted September 19, 2015 Posted September 19, 2015 Cool, wish I had your talents and perseverance. Jim Quote
linda s Posted September 19, 2015 Posted September 19, 2015 So are you taking appointments yet for the rest of us. Man that's smooth. Linda S Quote
WME Posted September 27, 2015 Posted September 27, 2015 Heat vents on hood. Car Craft December pg 52. Quote
mtdave2 Posted October 9, 2015 Author Posted October 9, 2015 well i did manage to actually go camping for one night! proof! the over heating issue has been interesting and i have learned a great deal about the different types of cooling systems and some details about radiator caps that i didn't know. The cause of the overheating was cavitation , bubbles in the system. or at least I think that is what it was! ha! I changed the system to a closed type with a pressurized expansion tank, this system self bleeds bubbles out very well. The issue is I have a radiator with a cap. doesn't sound like a big deal deal, however it is. Fluid ( and bubbles) must be able to get from the radiator to the expansion tank while pressurized and back. Because I have a radiator with a cap for a open system this was not happening. the only way to get fluid to flow through the cap is to take the vacuum cap off the bottom of the cap the issue with that is that the cap will then leak under pressure. so I have been trying to solve the issue. I just can not find a standard cap with no spring or plunger! Driving me crazy. I THINK that if i can find a cap, or get one of the ones I am altering to seal, I will be done overheating.....i hope...pray.. lol Sill have a trany solenoid error code that is just a bear to figure out! once the cooling issue is done, I will focus on that again. Did some upgrades to the coach, new shower head, new floors, little things here and there. So I am happy with all he progress but the swap is still not done. With one month to go before the yearly trip to new braunfels texas to meet and camp with friends at wurstfest. not sure If the dolphin will be going, or if we will have to rent something. we will see! Quote
Bunneys Posted October 13, 2015 Posted October 13, 2015 Wow! What a great write-up THANK YOU!! :-) Quote
WME Posted October 14, 2015 Posted October 14, 2015 Volvo used a pressure recovery tank. The radiator had a simple cap to seal the header tank. I don't know if the cap used a "standard" radiator cap thread. Something to check. Quote
mtdave2 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Posted October 25, 2015 well, i have discovered the vibration. t-converter. How i got 2 bad ones from the rebuild place is testament to my luck! I put back in the original lexus t-converter and the vibration is 80% gone. f#$K ME, LOL.. Quote
WME Posted October 25, 2015 Posted October 25, 2015 Why is it the longer the problem goes on, the simpler the answer. Quote
mtdave2 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Posted October 25, 2015 the frustrating part of this is that I have been telling the trany shop that it is the t converter from the start.,But these guys are a great shop and are smart and honest, so I try to listen to qualified experts when i can. because i did this time, i ended up doing 40 hours worth of work trying to find another cause...sigh. the good side is, everything i did i made the rig better. I refabbed some things that are tons better and i also fixed things that I really wasnt happy with. so, at least when this thing is done, it will be done well.. Though I will be so mad at it i will sell it..hah! Quote
mtdave2 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Posted October 26, 2015 well, that was totally awesome. I decided to take a long test drive today, so I left my home in Golden, Co, and drove north at highway speed to loveland co. the Dolphin preformed well on the highway, i was nursing it at first then decided to see if i could brake something. It will cruise at 65 with little effort and 75 with my foot in it a little. not bad for a rv. We then drove up the canyon to estes park, at again it performed well, i was watching the temp gauge closely because these are the times it would slowing click up to 240 and id shut it down. This time it only got to 219, but when we got to Estes and stopped i noticed the radiator fan was not running! found a broken wire and patched it up. so, I don't know how long the fan was off. from estes we drove the Peak to Peak highway all the way to I70. When I say drove, I mean more like drag raced. I dogged the crap out of that motor. I freaking flew up all those hills, cornered like a little pickup. I think the car that followed me most of the way was wondering WTF is in that Dolphin! I giggled the whole way, waiting for a hill so i could destroy that sob. had a freaking blast. i filled up before and after the trip, 13.8 mpg! heck yeah. could i get 16-17 on flat ground not dogging it? perhaps. there are still some issues, but i can say the 1uzfe in our little toys is beyond awesome. Quote
WME Posted October 31, 2015 Posted October 31, 2015 So how hot did it get on the rest of the trip with the fan working Quote
mtdave2 Posted November 1, 2015 Author Posted November 1, 2015 206 i think. mostly under 200. I'm happy with that. Quote
WME Posted November 1, 2015 Posted November 1, 2015 Well seeing how 195 is perfect, then under 200 is close enough for gov't work. Quote
mtdave2 Posted November 2, 2015 Author Posted November 2, 2015 that is what I thought too. Now I may be crazy, well, no maybe, but if all goes well with the transmission shop tomorrow. (they are replacing the tconverter and pump), I will take the RV for a 3 hour test drive. Then on Wednesday after work, load everything up and drive from Golden Co, to New braunfels Tx. About 1000 miles. Been planing the trip for a year, and to drive the rv. now I though i would have a few months to drive the hell out of it to be sure the bugs were all gone, but do to 3 months screwing around with the trany, im out of time. Though I have been driving it to work for a few months. so I am confidant in everything BUT the trans. See how this all works out! Quote
jjrbus Posted November 2, 2015 Posted November 2, 2015 Dave, you gotta think positive, remember it is downhill from there to TX! Jim ps emergency road service, might be a good idea? http://www.coach-net.com/ Quote
mtdave2 Posted November 16, 2015 Author Posted November 16, 2015 there and back. 1900 miles. 65-75 the whole way up and back. going down averaged 14 mpg coming home about 12. best tank was 15 on flat land with no wind. I did have to buy a new battery while in Texas, but I knew that was coming. other than that I did not have a single issue. The rig just tore it up! I flew by a couple of class c rvs that were struggling to maintain 55, I felt a little bad for them but it was a cool feeling. I could not be more pleased with the performance for this motor. I still have a few bugs to chase down, but at least i can use the rig now, and it is a absolute kick in the butt to drive. Quote
WME Posted November 17, 2015 Posted November 17, 2015 Your MPG is very close (or better) than a V6. If you have the patience try a short trip at 4 cylinder speeds and see what the MPG turns out to be. Could be a real eye opener Quote
mtdave2 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Posted November 19, 2015 well, i may have to try that. Im sure it would be fantastic mileage! Quote
a2ndopinion Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 FYI, in my Lexus LS400, and on all of my 2xR/RE powered Celicas and Coronas, I run the "big Ford oil filter", the Purolator PL30001 (rated one of the best on various oil test web sites), or at least the Wix/NAPA 51515, but NEVER a Fram PH8a (friends don't let friends use Fram). Quote
a2ndopinion Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 Just a little bit of size difference! I always figure that the bigger filter gives you more oil capacity (check oil level warm, shortly after shutting off engine, before filter partially drains), and it gives you much more filter area. I had a comment years ago from a guy stating that his oil pressure was lower with the larger filter - umm yeah, lees resistance in the filter? Quote
mtdave2 Posted December 3, 2015 Author Posted December 3, 2015 oil pressure is fine now, using the same filter i do for my 1972 chevy truck, the trans fluid also is ran though the same size filter. much bigger than the stock one. Quote
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