Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi

had to replace thermostat in my v6 dolphin. took hoses of and flushed engine and rad. what a load of brown sludge came out. on removal of old thermostat it was fitted with jiggle 90 degrees from top. also thermostat opening for letting water through was in centre not off centre like new one. refilled cooling system could not get it hot even with rad blanked off. went for test drive still no reading on temp gauge. then rain and fog set in. thought have a look in morning and over flow bottle was drained of water. so filled it again and topped up rad. what i would like to know does this mean system is bled or do i have a bigger prob. dont really want to drive it until i know if ok or needs a mechanic.

Thanks

dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

turn the heater aqnd blower on full blast. take the radiator cap off. Start the truck, get someone to rev it up and hold it at to about 1500-2000 rpm while you re-fill the radiator. Keep the engine running to get it hot, rev up the engine again and top off the radiator. (use caution as it may squirt out when you return the egine to idle. You should have heat coming out of the heater.

Put the radiator cap on, make sure the overflow is about 1/2 full.

John Mc

88 Dilphin 4 Auto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When the engine won't get hot, it often means you've got the thermostat in wrong. The coolant is just flowing right past it, so the engine is taking forever to warm up.

Did you put the rubber gasket around the edge of the thermostat? That was my problem when my truck wouldn't heat up.

Looks like this http://www.stockwiseauto.com/product_info.php/products_id/819813/fit_id/5229/Year/1984/Make/Toyota/Model/4Runner/source/googleps?gclid=CMWRh8PVy7gCFeV7QgodDHgAYg

Air in the system is more likely to make you overheat than not get hot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

spring side of thermostat goes towards engine block ?????

Thanks

dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most likely there was insufficient coolant in the engine. I've had the same experience after changing coolant. Several fillings of overflow bottle and radiator to get everything topped off. However, in my case the temperature would climb very high after a couple of miles of driving.

Later, I found that it easier to remove the top radiator hose from the radiator. Pour new coolant directly into that hose and fill the engine completely full.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

some vehicles have bleeder vents for just this reason; Im not sure the Toyotas do but my buick had a couple brass tiny bolts that would allow steam pockets to vent out.

I remember getting a rad flush on my toyota celica one year and it overheated 15 minutes after leaving the shop. They told me to let it cool a bit and open the rad (CAREFULLY) and fill direct in rad and fill the overfill bottle to the line and keep going. I noticed that when the motor cooled it sucked up all the fluid out of the over fill bottle so it was empty when cold. keep filling it; it should be at the fill level line level when cold. the steam bubbles will work their way out the overfill when hot; then when it cools the vacuum from them slurps up coolant; which is what you want; its bleeding the air out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

spring side of thermostat goes towards engine block ?????

Thanks

dave

I don't remember...I don't think so. But DO make sure you put that rubber gasket around the edge of the thermostat. If your thermostat has a bare metal edge, coolant is bypassing it and your engine won't heat up!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Notice in every response you are getting, they experienced engine OVERHEATING. Your problem has nothing to do with air in the system, whether you have air in there or not.

I'm sure there are other ways for NOT HEATING UP to occur, but the only way that it has ever happened to me was from not putting the rubber gasket around the thermostat.

You still haven't said whether you did that or not.

I'm interested...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that could happen. but i have had this to happen the engine on a v6DODGE it was heating up it was over heating but the gauge would not come up at all because of an air lock after changing antifreze. i think the temp senser has to have liquid to read. an airbubble will keep it dry.thus it was getting to hot but not showing dealer told me was airlocked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

montana i did put rubber seal around thermostat. when i went to check water overflow bottle level was very low. Tonight after a run i parked up st home and 5 mins later could hear air bubbling into overflow bottle. Heater works very well. also think i have a blockage in cooling system dispite flushing out rad and block. any advice on what to use as a flushing agent to help clear blockage.

Thanks

dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drive it till its hot a few more times and keep adding water to the overflow bottle. When you shut off an engine it will get hotter for a while then start to cool down. That's the bubbles you heard.

Although you have a V-6 the 22re are famous for needing a cooling system burp after a refill. Some folks jack up the front as high as they can,. So that the radiator is higher than the engine and air will go there.

Might work for you too.

A completely not related problem that acts like this is a blown head gasket, it will keep pushing air into the cooling system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

in reply to wme fingers crossed its not head gasket. when i check overflow bottle there is still brown sludge being depoisted in it. every time i check water i remove and clean overflow bottle. on my next days off going to re flush engine and rad. when i fill it water im going to put front end up on wheel ramps to see if this speeds up air removal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your new thermostat should have a small vent hole on the top. Usually it has small metal pin which moves up and down in the hole. Check this in the event some of your engine sludge got in there and blocked it.

Don't ask why but some mfg delete this feature.

Other thought is you may have a defective thermostat, even though it new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

new thermostat has jiggle pin. i put jiggle pin in 12 o'clock position. after closer in spection after cleaning old thermostat the jiggle pin was jammed also looks very new. before removal of old thermostat jiggle pin was at 3 o'clock. checking water level today no sludge in overflow bottle. oil level has not increased so hopefully no head gasket probs fingers crossed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone have a deffant answer that thermostat should be fitted with spring side in block. internet has not given me an answer on 3vze engine.

Thanks

dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your getting brown sludge, I would drain, flush, and re-fill the system again.. When you refill, use the trick about someone revving the engine while you pour into the radiator, Keep in mind the heater must be on full blast, max heat and turn the blower on.

Note on Thermostat - Look carefully at the thermostat, most will have an arrow with the words "toward radiator". Also - I think on the 22RE, its impossible to put it in upside down. (need to verify that)

The spring side should be toward the engine.

John Mc
88 Dolphin 4 Auro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once flushed as waiter said, set heater and blower to high. Pour about 1 gal into cold radiator. (or until it reaches the top). Start the engine and watch the fluid level in the radiator, it should go down.keep adding fluid until its near the top. Wait for your thermostat to open and the fluid level will drop again. Continue to add fluid. At this point you should be able to look inside the radiator and see the fluid moving. Replace the radiator cap and fill overflow bottle to cold mark. If everything is working good you should be able to top off the bottle if needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you stirred up so much brown sludge that you have plugged up the radiator???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

last time I changed my coolant in the radiator it tried to overheat several times -- kept refilling the overflow & when it ran hot stopped & let her cool down. After 3 or 4 iterations all was well.. I think I did let it sit overnight once & topped off the radiator the next day -- when it was completely cool.

Running the heater should help too - keep moving the coolant

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

need to find a flushing agent to help clean out cooling system. tried flushing block and rad with hose pipe twice now. overflow bottle still filling up with brown gunk. on positive side temperture is more stable and heater is extremely good.

Thanks

dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Preston makes a cleaning agent to be used with its Flush & Fill kit.

I've used this on several vehicles and found it quite effective. Your local WalMart has it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sounds like maybe some poor uninformed soul put dexcool in your radiator once... Ive seen that sludge before... Dexcool. Only the geniuses at government motors would use something that breaks down into mud in a radiator application. I am Prestone for life; even in my GM. I dont care if it voids the crummy GM warranty; (which historically they never honored on my buick anyway)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow. Yeah I've never seen sludge in my radiators.

I cannot imagine that a thermostat works any different in a V6 than a 4 cylinder. Which means spring side down.

I always use Toyota red and distilled water...

As far as the overheating and refilling over days talk...

Fill radiator, turn on engine. Keep cap off, and carefully so as not to get your hand in the fan, squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses to get air out. Like waiter said revving the engine helps. When things heat up you'll see bubbles coming up, the fluid will spill out as some bigger bubble come to the top. Just keep topping it off. Wen it seems like the rolling boil has stopped, put on the cap and shut off the engine. Other than seeing if it needs a little top off in the overflow the next time you drive it, you're done.

I've never had overheating or had to add fluid more than once after fluid changes. This has always been on the 22 and 20Rs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my guess would be long term colling system neglect by prevous oweners some people never change antifreze. bought a used van like that once raditer and heater were both pluged solid

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yuck.

Having been through quite a few old used vehicles, I've been pretty pleasantly surprised at how well maintained my Chinook is. Even the stuff that is "rigged" is rigged right. I've seen stuff I'd do differently, but nothing that makes me worry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...