Jump to content

Flexible solar panel


darrel

Recommended Posts

Just to clarify. The unisolar peel and stick panels will not just pull back up with one hand. Mounted on a Zacks fiberglass Sunrader roof that he cleaned throughly first I could not budge it at all. Tried getting my fingers under it in several places and it was stuck about as solid as anything could be. I would not be the least concerned about it flying off at highway speeds. Now as far as cutting them. It can be done but rewireing the segments is not for the novice and cuts have to be made in very specific places.

Linda S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just to clarify. The unisolar peel and stick panels will not just pull back up with one hand. Mounted on a Zacks fiberglass Sunrader roof that he cleaned throughly first I could not budge it at all. Tried getting my fingers under it in several places and it was stuck about as solid as anything could be. I would not be the least concerned about it flying off at highway speeds. Now as far as cutting them. It can be done but rewireing the segments is not for the novice and cuts have to be made in very specific places.

Linda S

Yes the Unisolars come with proprietary glue factory installed that once stuck onto something -is near impossible to remove. Unisolar requires their flexible panels be installed onto thin zinc-coated steel sheets and then those sheets can get the hard fasteners.

I was offered some flex panels for free that were glued to a fiberglass roof - directly. I could not get them off without doing damage but I did not try using a heat gun that might of worked. Depends on what the glue compound is.

Contrary to what some other's have claimed - the solid panels do not require additonal mounting hardward IF temps are not an issue. Rigid solar panels get put on racks for two reasons. #1 so they can be adjusted to point at the sun, and #2 to allow air flow by convection underneath them for cooling.

A rigid aluminum framed panel can have a air holes drilled directly in the frame and then be mounted directly to an RV roof IF weight and angle is not an issue.

Doing it that way has the solar panel spaced 1/2" to 1" above the roof deck so it gets cooled.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Below is one article on the solar panels that perform better in shade than the traditional solar panels of the past. While what I say might seem to some like I don't know what I am talking about you might not want to be taking any bets on it.

There has obviously been hypothetical improvements in photo-voltaic efficiency. That being said- at the dollar-per-watt level available to the average consumer - who pays with his/her own money and not "free" funny money from government grants - there is little out there I see that offers huge gains.

The URL you linked to has an article written with a fair degree of BS built into it. Especially the chart showing the extremely limited solarization range of standard solar panels. I live on 100% solar and I'm in one of darkest low-light, bad sun angles areas of the northeast. I have a charge meter in my house I can look at any time to see what my 5400 watts of panels are putting out any time of day, sun out, sun gone, etc. That info they posted as shown in the color chart is silly. At 8:00 AM this morning with cloud cover I was making 900 watts of power and my sun angle was WAY out of range to be of any use according to the chart on that Website.

Last I checked - the world's record for a production-run panel - for sale to the general public and not hand-picked . . . achieved an efficiency of 13%. That is not a whopping gain. At least in my case - I go by dollar per watt, not watts per square inch UNLESS I have a problem area where space is extremely limited.

I've yet to find anything that documents any kind of annual output averages of the so-called "3D" panels compared, side-by-side with a conventional array. They are still too new, as it seems. Note that the URL you linked to - it says they "estimate" certain gains. That is not that same as they've actually done it out in the consumer world.

When someone is dealing with solar on an RV roof -there are many variables. Now if the only way to mount solar was directly to the roof pointing straight up - and the new 3D panels were 100% more efficient in the real world - and they did not cost 300% more - it might be worth trying.

I have no doubt there will be improved cost-effective panels available to the public at some time. Seems we are not there yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It would certainly be a rare treat to find a website that is not full of overblown sales pitches for its own company that is introducing a new product. I am of the lets wait and see inclination which is another reason I did not walk out of the boat show with a flexible panel.

I've been fascinated with solar electric since Nikita Kruschev put his Sputnik into orbit. It was battery powered. We then (the USA) followed with Vanguard in 1958. Our first solar powered satellite and the solar cells lasted seven years. At the time it was pretty amazing. Now - 55 years later, consumer solar is expected to still have 80% of it's original output after 25 years. Pretty good improvement. That old Vanguard satellite from 1958 is still up there which is astounding. I'm amazed it hasn't had a head-on collision with some space junk.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dont ever write me another message im not interested in your opinions.

If I didnt tell you to stop messaging me before I am now. I ignore your posts because they are strange and they are always bizzarre off topic conversation ending and insane. weird and personal rude and totally off topic and scatterbrained, most often totally incorrect and incompetent.

Im not interested in telling you youre out of your mind but im telling you to stop sending me messages. get a life. your problems are over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive taken my unisolar panel completely off where I first installed it, and installed it on the other side.

with one hand.

The adhesive is most like a common roofing adhesive called butyl tape but its thicker. meaning its actually easier to peel right back off. its made by basf though a little more specific to the panel material.

it is meant to adhere more when it melts so it stands to reason that the longer its there and when its in hot weather it will adhear more to a porous surface.

I install direct tv so I use bishops tape every day on roofs its a heat activated adhesive.

I havent had mine for a whole year but im sure i can go right back up there and peel it off again with one hand. once it melts in itll be a lot harder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I have time and I post on the forum a lot at once

I tend to attract what are known as strange stalkers who message me to try and get some personal attention. The desire to argue or whatever.

This is me telling you karin, that behaviour is over.

everything in the last post is insane and incorrect.

If returning things to costco is in anyway illegal youd better call them up asap.

Costco has a full satisfacction guarantee meaning you can return things for any reason you want. including wanting to get a better one. including wanting one without dirt on it.

I have never in my life met people who didnt understand how costco works until i used this forum actually.....

I think it takes a iq of around 80 to understand how it works. just an estimate and Im not used to trying to communicate with people that slow.

But I know that if you dont understand it theres no use repeating it.

If you dont understand how the warranty works I recomend not being a costco member. Thats what you pay the membership for.

im surre you will read my posts I actually contribute something to the forum. I do research, real and concise consulting people who have it together and in use if I can and I do projects and take pictures.

I contribute a fair percentage of the useful content here actually. nothing like waiter did back in the day but a hell of a lot more than you ever will.

In fact in my signature is everything anyone needs to know about putting solar on their rv in 15 minutes using no tools. Ignore some of the terrible advice thats bound to come up here and go get it done.

theres better in depth info in the thread I had called taking the solar plunge. I personally ended up getting a different solar controller than is in my sig for reasons that are somewhere in that thread but why get into that? I started with that and then I added to it and anyone could do the same steps starting the same way.

I dont think people really need to know anything else about it actually. Theres more intelligent data on it in my thread that says taking the solar plunge. like for instance, getting an mppt solar controller.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Winning bid: US $335.00

ya you can call all panels flexible in a way but those are still meant to be in a frame and seem fragile.

im calling 2 for 335 a bad deal really particularly since they are in china.

Im not really feeling any solar panel is even in the ballpark unless it is 1$ per watt so even for those 2 I want to pay 250 total before I even start to research what they are.

imo those are a standard mono crystaline panel without a frame. and yes you can flex a panel without a frame.

might not be exactly what they are but they are not as cheap as solar blvd panels.

What linda is llooking for is a llighter panel but i dont know if thats going to work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Linda s.

solar panel still comes off with one hand. installed in december on aluminum.

this adhesive is not made for fiberglass atually its made to adhere to metal. I would be interested in how it sticks to warriors also. I think whats holding it onto a sunrader more is the pores and melting.

If there is anyone else with a unisolar panel thats active here id love them to chime in.

I got the idea from someone here whos not active anymore but put a 9 foot panel on his warrior.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Below is one article on the solar panels that perform better in shade than the traditional solar panels of the past. While what I say might seem to some like I don't know what I am talking about you might not want to be taking any bets on it. They were selling this technology as flexible panels at the Seattle Boat Show last month and you had better believe I spent quite a while talking to the reps about it. I could have walked out the door with them for a decent price but I had other project priorities for the Sunrader that need to happen first such as getting rid of the propane system so I can do a nice install of chargers, controllers and batteries. I am not going to rush into purchasing the panels as wide angle, flexible, solar panels are just now hitting the market place. They will be just the ticket for a little RV as they are smaller in size but considerably more efficient at capturing low angle light in the morning, evening and in the northern areas such as Washington state. The years I spent in the wire shop at Boeing building wire bundles, testing and doing installs on the airplanes will come in very handy for this project, I know how to do a very professional install of the wire runs and connections ;-). But I still have lots to learn about the controllers and chargers.

Portland, MI Case Study

PortlandMI-web.jpg

A 5kW [Metanna] system was installed in Portland, MI. [Metanna] panels are designed to work in lower-light, cloudy conditions that are prevalent in the north/northeast portion of the U.S. This is because [Metanna] BIPV utilizes triple-junction technology that captures not only blue and green light, as traditional crystalline silicon PV panels do, but also captures the longer wavelength red light which passes through clouds and snow. Since there are shorter daylight hours in winter and less sunny days, [Metanna] collects ambient and diffuse light through clouds and snow, and turns it into energy. Therefore, [Metanna] solar systems, designed with UNI-SOLAR® PV laminate modules, still produce power early in the morning, late in the evening, and on cloudy days. In grid-connected applications like [Metanna], the PV system works in parallel with the utility power grid. Electrical needs are first met by [Metanna] solar until they exceed solar power output, and the remaining needs are met by the local power utility. Also, when the [Metanna] PV system generates more energy than the building requires, the excess power is sent to the utility grid, reversing the electrical meter and saving power there.

Website for an explanation of Wide Angle Solar technology. ..

http://www.solar3d.com/technology.php

im positive part of why i got unisolar panels was the fact that im starting out in the northwest for them, they are ideal for an rv that sits in tree cover.

actually they have always been the perfect solar panel for an rv roof, its just that they used to also be expensive.

Now on the opposite of this advantage is they are so huge they HAVE to have this advantage on an rv roof to generate power or else your whole roof would have to be away from a tree.

Whereas a polycrystaline 125 watt panel needs clear sunlight to function, yet its also 1/3 the size so its less likely to get shaded on an rv roof.

There are different technologies on solar panels none of which are relevant really to the toyhome forum..... Theres sanyo hybrid panels that are mono crystaline, and amorphous both that are the best for LOW light, not shade. unisolar are the best for shade but for just low light like portland a hybrid will produce more power compared to its watt rating.

but its in the retail range so its not relevant to the toyhome forum. Its most efficient per square foot but its not effecient enough per dollar invested.

some people might be thinking of investing thousands in a solar array for their toyhome. Like a yacht level installation.

However its safe to say that most people are looking to invest.... 170$ for 116 watt system. 310 for a 250 watt system like I have. for their 25 year old motorhome. If that.

In general I dont think its smart to invest more than that, I cant really think of a good reason for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heres a page that shows pictures of soldering the panels once they are cut.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448/anyone-have-experience-with-unisolar-flexible-pv-94111-3.html

thats what would be involved in somehow covering your whole roof with them. you can see airstreams have vents but toyhomes have 3 vents and 3 tubes.

I have picturess of rvs with the whole roofs covered with unisolar panels but they dont have the amount of ventss a toyhome does.

I dont think anyone has done this but Id like to see it.going for more like 500 watts on the roof.

I cant think of why anyone would want anything else on their toyhome really, ive never seen an intelligent reason other than wanting more watts than they had roof space.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm still around but a bit more busy as I have a new job and am working longer hours.

The Uni-solar glue gripped the aluminum like iron. I wanted to readjust it because a small repair in the roof caused it to change direction slightly when laying it down. There's a half inch gap between the forward aluminum gunnel and the cell. However, the glue won't budge.

About a thousand miles now on the cell and no peeling. The textured surface does seem to pick up dirt and not be as easy to clean as, say, the aluminum.

sml_gallery_2450_368_992013.jpg

Linda s.

solar panel still comes off with one hand. installed in december on aluminum.

this adhesive is not made for fiberglass atually its made to adhere to metal. I would be interested in how it sticks to warriors also. I think whats holding it onto a sunrader more is the pores and melting.

If there is anyone else with a unisolar panel thats active here id love them to chime in.

I got the idea from someone here whos not active anymore but put a 9 foot panel on his warrior.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a person who ignores my postings you sure do go on and on about them....

You also have my friends and myself roaring in laughter at the concept of me stalking you. You have got to be kidding...you are talking to a woman who spent last weekend at a dollhouse show with her girlfriends and this weekend at the opera with her boyfriend. I am over sixty, don't drink enough to count as drinking, don't smoke and the only drug in my system is Ibuprofen.

Like I said your postings are a very amusing insight into your personality. People stalking you online....OMG way too funny.

JD here, not Mr.Stamar. I should keep my digital mouth shut, but I can't resist. I'm around your age but probably not as mature inside the head. I'm mean enough to feel better when someone else other then me gets harassed by a certain poster.

If you change your mind and want to know the guy better - no "stalking" needed (as he seems to have put it). Note to admin - there's a good photo of a Toyota RV here for relevance.

http://www.okcupid.com/profile/stamar/photos?cf=profile

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JD what I find very amusing is the posting he took so much affront to, the one that started this thing from Stamar, is something I said to you. . Maybe he thought you needed a shirtless knight riding in on a white dolphin to rescue you :help: ? Now there is an image to brighten your day

I feel like I need a shower now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why can't we all just have a group hug and forgive and forget, think positive Toyota thoughts, and appreciate the good things in life?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah all this stuff not right for this site. Someones private life even if it is on the internet is not what we are here for. Were done now. You may continue to talk about solar panels but I will delete anymore of this other topic

Linda S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anybody found any good buys on the 12 volt flexible panels? I've made bids on several Unisolar 68 watt units since they are the perfect size for my Chinook roof. I offered $100 to several sellers on Ebay and the lowest counter-offer I got was $130 plus $30 shipping. That would come to $2.35 per watt which is rediculous in today's market (in my opinion). I've been buying solar panels for 40 cents to 60 cents per watt this year. But for this pop-up very-lightly built roof, I'd like to have something as light as possible and also with the least wind resistance. I'd just epoxy it to the fiberglass and let it become permanent if bought cheap. Maybe even put some hold-down molding strips with screws.

I've found deals on the longer 24 volt flexible panels for 58 cents per watt from Sun Electric. I'd rather have 12 volts though since cutting is not always easy and 24 volts will only work with certain controllers when used to charge 12 volt batteries. On many cheaper controllers,the input matches the output.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would think if one has a problem getting panels to stick to their flat roof they might want to consider washing the roof first. I don't thing as fast as Toy home is it would be able to achieve hurricane force winds so they probably will stay put. I have seen a lot of RV junk on the highway but I would stop for a flexible solar panel, none yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think other than maybe linda and of course skydancer I dont think anyone who posted here actually has a solar panel on an rv.

A huge collection of wasted space as youre all less up on it than the orignal person who posted in the thread.

anyone who looks at the facts involved should be able to figure out they want a unisolar panel on their rv, anything else is not only inferior its more expensive at this point.

Most people are sort of in the same space, they would either get a stick em panel or never get anything its too involved.

as far as where to buy them,

Well the cheapest source is still whats in my signature, 1$ a watt.

Even the one jd has listed at 58c a watt..... it says its 178$ for 138 watts.

I dont know what kind of math they are using.

I got mine for 116$ for 116 watts.

I obviously recomend that over the common 100$ for 68 watts version out there because with one razor knnife you can cut your panel and it becomes a 12 watt 9 foot panel.

as far as removing them they are coated with a common roofing adhesive. you may think your roof is permanent too but i promise you with leverage I can tear your roof rright off.

I tore mine off,i putt it like skydancers at first, and then I put it on the other side the next day.

It may be very hard for a mature person I admit Im a big guy and i know how to pull from a ladder.

I can tear them off your friends sunrader too. I couldnt guarantee not damaging them but it doesnt seem like thats possible to me.

they are definitely secure as far as the amount of adhesive vs the weight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

whats hilarious about this is id love to see some pictures of karin jd and derick of the north lol.

Im a big strong good looking guy, Im sure you all are pretty ashamed of how you look. not that Id be so insecure as to make fun of you, I could care less. I looked at that page and I see a healthy competent person.

conversing with a few people with basic functional problems that happen with age to a fair percentage of people

and more importantly, I figure things out in a minute what may take you months to figure out.

sky wme, totem... almost anyone has unisolar panels figured out in a minute. the first time I saw that picture up there I knew immediately I didnt want any other panels on my rv that goes at 65 mph on the road.

I happen to actually be in the market for a 125 watt framed polycrystaline panel, for the purpose of using it as a vent cover. If someone looks at that picture karin has off the 5 panels on their roof, and then at the pictures of my and skydancers roof..... well if it doesnt click it doesnt click.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i am sure i linked a source that shows wiring the panels you cut from a unisolar panel. It isnt necessarrily easy looking.

so get the 18 foot ones, the 136 watt ones and cut them in half.

Im positive thats the second time Ive posted that in this thread. It might take a minute

depending on your solar controller you can wire them to the first half or seperately.

Ive also linked a 6$ solar controller that covers up to 150 watts or so of unisolar panels.

I thknk I linked a source for wire that i didnt even get and mc3 connectors you dont need. you can connect the wires with screw caps for stereo installation and some silicone. make it entirely tool free installation like i did. I zip tied my wires to the rear tank pipe.

And I hang wires for a living now so I should have fastened it down.

I used a ladder only because im too heavy to be on my roof.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flexible-SOLAR-Panel-Cells-50-Unisolar-Panels-365W-Total-Watts-Fast-Low-Ship-/130868379311?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e785cfeaf

this could actually be the cheapest source. I dont guarantee its easy, and it includes no adhesive actually

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cutting a 18 foot panel in half so that the rear half is usable is better using a dremel tool.

cutting the center of it down the line, and then cutting the edges about 2 inches up from the last line.

thats because on each side theres actually 5 flat wires

if you cut it off at the line, just go one panel down and re cut. you need the ends of the wires from the last panel.

I already have two unisolar scraps for some project someday. I didnt cut them right but I dont care.

each side has a positive and negative from itself and a positive and negative from the bypass circuit. this is how it works in the shade

If you dont have that wired, your panel is worse than a regular panel in the shade it will just be dead from the shaded panel back.

If I get another one Ill have three scraps to put on the hood of my car. i think of this as a semi difficult home electronics project.

but people have put them on the roofs of their suvs so its been done all over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

eve and stephen also of course have solar panels on an rv.

I dont know what motivates someone to write that you need to put metal trays on your rv... or you need special panels if your rv roof accumulates water.... or in other words, UTTER GARBAGE other than ignorance.

When I posted my thread months ago asking about it I got such a terrible amount of misinformation here I went ahead and did thorough research.

There are great users here who are really competent. But theres a lot of regular posters, and their names change, who arent concerned about whether anything they say is made up or not.

It embarrasses me. When I was in the situation of asking for feedback on the same subject it wasted a lot of my time and taught me a lesson. If I have time I want to be there for people who want straight facts and nothing from people who are at the point in their life where this level of project is challenging to keep track of.

I want to be there to say to them, you can do it I did it. And more importantly, dont listen to them they have a hard time tying their shoe some days.

someday im going to do a study of the effects of alzheimers on the receptacles in the brain that used to deal with electronics and why everything goes apesh@t crazy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my okcupid has a picture of my 79 dolphin I dont have any more.

Although my 85 is far superior that 79 was in garaged condition it was really sweet looking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont know what motivates someone to write that you need to put metal trays on your rv... or you need special panels if your rv roof accumulates water.... or in other words, UTTER GARBAGE other than ignorance.

My motivation was information that exists in Unisolar documents.

I mentioned steel pans that Unisolar states need to be used , in their written spec sheet and in their installation manual. I never claimed that anybody with a flexible panel 'has" to do it. It IS what Unisolar says to do. Metal panels and a 185 F degree temp limit. Anbody installing their own solar panels on an RV can do whatever they like. When doing it for someone else - there are matters involving warranty,codes, etc.

Why do you try so hard to insult people on this forum? Can't you find anybody in real life, face-to-face, to do it to?

I have solar panels on two of my RVs (not flexible), and also on two houses. I live off of solar in regard to electricity use. I think that demonstrates a bit of genuine experience with it. How about you?

post-6578-0-19887600-1363266539_thumb.jp

post-6578-0-63505400-1363266540_thumb.jp

post-6578-0-47942800-1363266542_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have solar panels on my rv. I have a motorhome.. A motorhome doesnt have metal trays on it.

I have unisolar panels on my rv I stuck them on I took pictures here somewhere for people to help them. So nobody had to buy things blindly that has a problem.

I dont care why youre confused jd I just want to know what I can do to help you stop posting crap.

you are the single worst source for solar panel information I can even think of I dont want to even meet who is second. I dont even waste my time pointing out everything you say thats wrong almost anyone should be able to tell.

Im not here to even spend the time editorialing but there were 10 things you said that were totally incorrect before you even got here. Im not here to pay attention to it but I try to help anyone get the facts straight for people who have motorhomes and are rolling on actual projects.

so what we need are the sharing of information and opinions after you know something about it and not before....

So before you know anything about it cutting metal trays to put on your motorhome might sound like it makes sense... but after you know something about it seems like ridiculous waste of time. Almost a humorous joke.

before you know anything about it is not the best time to talk about the weight of something, its after. After you understand it better.

If you lead a discussion with " i dont have a motorhome and ive never put any solar panels on the roof of a motorhome or met someone or seen someone with them"

you have a good spot to learn something as opposed to sharing whatever opinion you have.

We need a little more after and a little less before thats all its all going to be ok.

Im not going to be polite Im going to make fun of you its over the top.

Your opinion was i dont know its 50/50 on the weight lol to where can I get one? To whatever, next youre talking about what volts modern controllers can handle.... all things that someone whos already put a solar panel on their rv knows. I think you even posted a bunch of incorrect things in my solar panel thread 3 months ago like about controllers.

let me tell you what jd, I have in my signature everything someone whos confused about solar panels and metal trays on their roof and weight and switching volts needs to know.. Thats for a complete newbie like you, all you need to know.

from where you are at youre extremely likely to buy the wrong things install them in unsafe ways or something crazy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so what we need are the sharing of information and opinions after you know something about it and not before....

So before you know anything about it cutting metal trays to put on your motorhome might sound like it makes sense... but after you know something about it seems like ridiculous waste of time. Almost a humorous joke.

I never told anyone to put "metal trays" on their RV roof.

I posted information directly from the company that made the Unisolar flexible panels. I.e. "primary sources" of information. If you blame ME for what the maker of the panels states - isn't that a little silly? Yeah, it is.

I never stated that anyone has to do AS the maker says. If someone buys new and cares about warranty, then they ARE subject to whatever the company making the panels says to do.

I guess I should be glad that you do not possess enough knowldege or skill to successfully insult those that do.

That being said, it still baffles me why you try so hard to elevate yourself by lowering others.

I bet you cannot specificy one thing that I've stated in regard to solar that is factually incorrect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just in this thread

1

For that reason, I'm wondering how they can work and last when installed directly on a roof of an RV. My guess it that they don't. I see the new Eco Roadtrek RV that just came out with a roof full of factory installed solar and they used solid panels space a few inches off the roof to provide air ventilation under them. I suspect they decided the flexible panels were not suitable on the roof? Just a guess, I do not know for sure. Maybe somehow the flexible panels can endure more heat buildup then the solid-framed panels . . but I doubt it.

2

Absolute max high temp rating is 185 degrees F. I suspect there is no way they can be glued directly to a metal roof and stay cool enough. That's why solar is usually installed with an air space underneath.

3,

( this would be a much shorter list if I could find anything you said thats right. like if you just busted out onnce in a while with somethnig like..l

"solar panel depends on having a sun in your solar system")

theres a comparison of what it would weigh on the roof of your motorhome with a metal tray. vs ( possibly) what a stardard panel might weigh....

Not that you think its a good idea to put them in a metal tray and put them on the roof of your motorhome, because as we all know thats stupid right. but just a theoretical what it would weigh if some crackhead did.

which is important information to figure out. the inches square of a metal tray on the roof of your toyhome. Cut with a metal sawzall or something.

maybe screwed into fiberglass or aluminum on your rv that travels 65 mph.

all figures of prices per watt turned out to be false.

as obviously you also ask for where to buy them..... ebay. in the second post, wme posts where to get them.

then some ridiculous thing about taking the adhesive off, but epoxying them. sounds like a great idea

what should I say,that sounds retarded jd get back to us when you have some experience with it like the tens of thousands of people with them already on their roof.

epoxy may either make it more permanent or less secure than the thick roofing tar that is used and rated up to 160 mph winds. Make something simple into something dangerous.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just in this thread

1

For that reason, I'm wondering how they can work and last when installed directly on a roof of an RV. My guess it that they don't.

2

Absolute max high temp rating is 185 degrees F. I suspect there is no way they can be glued directly to a metal roof and stay cool enough. That's why solar is usually installed with an air space underneath.

Note: That is info taken directly from Unisolar documents.

Also when I says " I guess", that indicates I DO not claim to know for sure.

When I say " I suspect" that is my way of saying "I think." Not a claim of knowing 100% for sure.

all figures of prices per watt turned out to be false.

as obviously you also ask for where to buy them..... ebay. in the second post, wme posts where to get them.

I did not post any price-per-watt figures that were false.

I've had chances to buy 12 volt Unisolar flexible panels for 50 cents per watt when I did not want them. Today I can buy for 58 cents per watt but that is only for the 24 volts or higher flexible panels. That is from Sun Electric in Florida. I would like to buy some flexible 12 volt panels if cheap enough. I mentioned offering a seller $100 on Ebay, plus shipping and he did not take my offer. Are you saying you know of a place I can get a Unisolar 68 watt flexible solar panel shipped to Central NY for $100 or less?

I have several 80 watt "hard" panels here. The issue is the light-duty Chinook pop-up roof. I want sometime as light as possible and with little wind resistance. Thus the reason for my interest in the Unisolar 68 watt flexible panel. I got my 80 watt panels for 30 cents per watt and were certainly a better buy then any flexible panels I've seen thus far. The Chinook roof is fiberglass and I don't live in a very hot area. So overheating of the panels with no air underneath does not worry me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...