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Hi

thought my toy was sealed dry. went out in it on friday and hear and saw water pouring through centre light fitting. It has never leaked through there before. as friday was dry and weekend forecast was for 80mph winds and over 2" of rain i went and bought a tin of flexable roof sealer. went over all joints and patches. so far seems to be working roof looks odd now. in spring hope to repaint roof with a solar paint to help keep toy cooler.

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Hi

thought my toy was sealed dry. went out in it on friday and hear and saw water pouring through centre light fitting. It has never leaked through there before. as friday was dry and weekend forecast was for 80mph winds and over 2" of rain i went and bought a tin of flexable roof sealer. went over all joints and patches. so far seems to be working roof looks odd now. in spring hope to repaint roof with a solar paint to help keep toy cooler.

Good that you got it patched up for the winter. It is always a worry with the storms. That is certainly very strong winds you are having.

Thunderstorm coming in here tomorrow. Cool enough and damp enough that tomorrow I shall have to resort to using a radiant heater to help me cure my fiberglass project.

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Almost finished with inside remodel. New AC gasket installed, almost all windows and seams re sealed. We have had unbelievable rain this last week. My house and business leaked badly, but not the dolphin. Well, except at the ac and now that should be fixed.

Oil change, mend grey water tank, finish sealing windows and roof and should be ready for the big retirement kick off trip.

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GLAD YOUR GETTIN"R"DONE

Post pics when finished....

Almost finished with inside remodel. New AC gasket installed, almost all windows and seams re sealed. We have had unbelievable rain this last week. My house and business leaked badly, but not the dolphin. Well, except at the ac and now that should be fixed. Oil change, mend grey water tank, finish sealing windows and roof and should be ready for the big retirement kick off trip.

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Found a seal over the drivers door where side meets bottom of over cab area had split. so been out in rain lull to reseal. wind has started to pick up and moved toy to front of house to break worst of wind. estimated wind speed 50+mph now with worse to come in next 48 hours. very early for a winter storm. ummmmmm maybe i should move south and not 200miles south of artic circle !!!!!!!!!. Plus in summer 22 hours of daylight to renovate toy :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)

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Finally got the openings from the old refrigerator vents filled in with fiberglass.

Filled in one opening, used up more resin than anticipated on it. Went to the store for more resin but first lunch while we watched the first race of the day for the America's cup. Then shopping for resin followed by race two. Then back to the RV to fill in vent hole number 2. Mother nature helped us celebrate with an overhead fireworks display just as we finished up.

Very much enjoying being at the new yard location where I am now working on my rig. Next door they are redoing a boat, a woodworker/metal worker there has a dog that is in love with ours. Artisan sculpture who has a forge is also next door. Other people working on interiors for school buses and such.

The portable solar power person says if I ever need to during a power outage just plug my power cord into the outlets on her rig. Now that is very friendly of her! The metal worker says if I need anything welded just holler. It is a good community feeling, very supportive people who are actually interested in what other people are working on. Airstreams, schoolies, cargo vans, Chinook, vintage Chris Craft runabout, Z cars, Burning Man rigs, a bunch of sail boats, custom food trucks, train tracks right behind with Amtrak and Burlington Northern going by now and again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

More painting work in the overcab. After struggling to get paint to dry the last few days I splurged on a dehumidifier.

Not a lot of choice on what I could buy. The dehumidifier shelves at Lowes were empty as all the products they sell had been recalled.

I went over to Home Depot and they only had one choice in the "small room" size units, a GE 30 pint. I set it up in the Sunrader and within 2 hours it had taken the humidity from 72% down to 50% pulling about about 4 pints of water from the air. My paint is drying nicely now with an additional bit of assist from a small, ceramic disc, electric heater. I guess I will be keeping the dehumidifier. Big difference as yesterday the windows were all fogged up on the inside and dripping, today no problems with that. I need the windows uncovered as having the daylight to work by is important.

This unit also has a hose connection feature so if I wish I can drain it into my grey water tank and leave the tanks drain open. Don't want any water left in the grey tank as freezing weather will be here in November. Clean water going out on the ground won't be an issue where I am parked. Later on I might add a permanent drain through the floor or wall that I hook a drain hose to but can cap off when not in use. Probably can do that in the bottom of the closet next to the bathroom. There are other drains through the floor there for the plumbing's low spot for winterizing. A small access panel on the base of the cabinet with the hose coiled up inside when not in use should work for this.

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Why not just tee into one of the existing drains? One less hole in the 'shell'. :)

Good idea. But those plumbing drains are too small. However now that you mention it I think I will rework it all into one drain of a large enough size for the dehumidifier when I replace the plumbing. All the plumbing lines have been removed to facilitate the new cabinets. No point in keeping those vintage plumbing lines, the forum has long since convinced me to change to PEX.

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I am getting tired of seeing the disintegrated particle board furring strips around the vents, fillers and such on my Sunrader as I am opening up wall panels to repair that kind of stuff. The screws that hold the covers on from the outside do need some extra thickness to grip into. The 3/16" thick skin is just not enough. I think I have an easy and very inexpensive way to build up some thickness with more fiberglass around those openings instead of using wood. I am going to ask the 2 sail making shops that are in this building for broken pultruded fiberglass sail battens. I see them out in the dumpster now and again and have grabbed a couple. I think the marine supply store tosses out broken ones the customers bring in for a match too. The fiberglass battens are 1/8" thick and about 1.5" wide.The length varies depending of course on where they broke. I will cut them to the length I need, butter the back side with epoxy and secure them against the fiberglass on the interior of the shell I can build up more than one layer of them if I want to do so.

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Weird idea, could you use a strip of corrugated fiberglass roofing panels?? Its cheap and you could cut 2" strips across the panel and then glue the corrugated to the side. It would give you a furring strip about 3/4" of so thick with min weight..

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Weird idea, could you use a strip of corrugated fiberglass roofing panels?? Its cheap and you could cut 2" strips across the panel and then glue the corrugated to the side. It would give you a furring strip about 3/4" of so thick with min weight..

I don't think the roof panel would work as they are rather like cardboard with lots of thin layers that are soft, flexible and would not hold screws very well. I need a nice, firm, solid material for the screw threads to bite into.

Pultrusion...two words put together to describe a manufacturing process, they are "pull and extrusion".

some examples of pultruded fiberglass shapes.

http://www.libertypultrusions.com/?gclid=CMrB-7bU_bkCFY1FMgodr2cATg

I could make some simple forms and cast my own stock but it cost less for me to go dumpster diving in my industrial neighborhood :)

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Molly anchors or Rivnuts will give you something to bite into on a thin surface.

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Molly anchors or Rivnuts will give you something to bite into on a thin surface.

Yes they will do that. Unfortunately there is generally not sufficient edge margin around the fastener locations for enlarging the holes to put those fastener types into.

In the cases of leaks at my tail lights, the refrigerator vents and the baggage compartment door frame some of the screw holes broke out into the cut edge of the opening. That was the cause of failure of the butyl seal around those openings. Insufficient compression of the butyl tape. Before drilling the installer did not properly align the components for the openings so that all the screws were properly located in reference to the cut opening. Apparently there was no inspection required of their work.

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I guess that rip-rap primer isn't the only thing used to cover up installation screw-ups. When I redid my windows I used up a lot of paint stir sticks as shims to really center things in the cutouts. Some of those were touch and go as to if they would seal properly. One window I had to use 5300 on as the margin was about 3/16"

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Went to Home Depot today and got a stick of Azek PVC 1 x 2 "lumber". That is going to be the material I use to create furring strips around the various lower vents and compartment openings on my Sunrader. It won't rot and it seems to hold the screws firmly, pointed screws don't need predrilling. Much stronger than the original particle board strips that were used when my rig was built. I won't be using it for all the furring, just for those areas that are prone to water damage.

I will be adhering that PVC lumber to the fiberglass shell using Amazing Goop Plumbing. That is a contact, construction adhesive and sealant that will stick to PVC. Most adhesives don't stick to PVC so it was great to find this product that is a water proof construction adhesive. it works on wood as well. Note that this product is not UV resistant. As I am going to be using it inside the walls the lack of UV resistance is not going to be an issue.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amazing-Goop-3-7-fl-oz-Plumbing-Adhesive-150011/100372167

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Hi

think i have finally sealed my toy up for winter. next spring hopefully will tidy up all the joints on toy and do a full body repaint. over the winter hope to do a passive auto box oil change as mine is turning brown. on ebay have mananged to pick up some geniune gm dexron 6 oil for £7 a litre. hope this will take my mpg to 16-17 english gallons. with a cold air intake and no cat will not be removing egr valve unless it fails.

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Hi
had to move toy to a different location to protect it from 80-90mph winds. winter has come in with a bang. blizzards forecast for mountains and local temps have tumbled. ummmmm roll on spring

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Hi

think i have finally sealed my toy up for winter. next spring hopefully will tidy up all the joints on toy and do a full body repaint. over the winter hope to do a passive auto box oil change as mine is turning brown. on ebay have mananged to pick up some geniune gm dexron 6 oil for £7 a litre. hope this will take my mpg to 16-17 english gallons. with a cold air intake and no cat will not be removing egr valve unless it fails.

are you in england?

is there walmart there?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-DEXRON-VI-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-qt/17134873

thats um... 4.27 us a quart so isnt that like 2.61 pounds?

a liter is a quart anyway.

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Hi

i am in far north of scotland we have no walmarts. dexron 6 is still very new on uk market my local mechanic has never heard of it !!!!! nearest place to buy dexron 6 is 240 mile round trip on roads with no dual carriage way or motorway. price i paid was good by uk standards. do most of my purchases for toy on internet. our fuel prices are 3 pence a litre more than rest of uk. Nothing like a challenge in life. :-) :-) :-)

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nice. ive done 3 drain and fills with dexron 6. because these things go so few miles a dexron 6 fluid change is likely lifetime maintenance.

there is of course some toyota official trans fluid which is also dexron 6 which is probably very expensive.

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Hi

i use mine as a daily runner. as winter is almost here. snow just around the corner anything thst will reduce strain on compents without reducing life span is a bonus. if fuel comsumption improves ill be happy.

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Finally figured out how to wire the LED stop/tail lite I installed over the back window without any outside wiring. Lifted up the rear of the closet floor and I could see the hole where the wiring harness goes into the tail lite assembly. Ran the 4C wire from there up the rear wall of the closet, where there is already wiring, and into the upper surface of the lower shelf. Used a adhesive backed plastic split wiring harness tube to the wires comming into the corner of shelf and back of the RV. Actually ran it too long by 1 inch to protect the wire entry point.

Super sano and works great. Brake lite really bright, it's an Optronics STL-78RPG, http://www.easternmarine.com/led-6-oval-flanged-red-vehicle-trailer-tail-light-stl-78rb , but I got it from local auto parts store.

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I

I saw a breakdown of mpg improvement with synthetic fluid and at best its almost nothing. But the biggest improvement as far as mpg is actually synthetic differential gear oil. Mine has .... it has that same brand walmart brand 75 140 full synthetic. Also likely a lfetime change.

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Hi stamar
thanks for tip on back axle oil. my auto gearbox oil is looking tired so hoping a passive oil change might give a 1mpg improvement. have managed to improve mpg from 13 to 16. My toy had been laid up for 12 months before i bought it. replaced anti freeze thermostat and done full engine service. My goal is to get 20 mpg out of toy. May not be achievable but a goal to aim for. next spring hoping to remove air con unit off roof as in uk never seem to have weather to justify use. understand it weighs approx 45kg so this should help in weight reduction improved handling and less drag. any more tips gratefully received
thanks
dave

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Yes would love to diesel conversion but the new d4d engines have a serious weakness lots of recalls. was thinking of land cruiser v8 diesel. shed loads of torque and 200 bhp. weather fuel consumption would be better but driving would be effortless.

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Hi
drained 1 litre out of auto box and replaced with 1 litre dexron 6. Been on a quick test drive difference is amazing. off on a 40 mile drive tomorrow let you all know how it performs.

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Hi

took toy out today weather was aganist me. rain and 30+mph winds. intial feeling is less drag from auto box. feels quicker from standing start and overdrive comes in 5mph lower than before. slowing down without using brakes is harder as toy just keeps going even agsinst the wind. fuel consumption working from fuel gauge seems to be a lot better. post mpg when i fill up again then we will be wiser. now looking to buy dexron 6 at a lower price than £7 a litre. also going to change diff oil to a very high spec 75w-90 oil. sent e-mails to all oil companies and oil blenders/makers. specs and prices vary alot. going go for a full synentic designed for heavy duty/commerical use.

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