1 Ton Rear End Rebuild

[Olds77421]

I was able to score a 1 ton 8" axle out of an old Dolphin from Facebook marketplace and plan to swap my G082 diff for the full floater. I'd like to rebuild it before installing it, but I can't really find any resources on specs. While I'd imagine the center section is basically the same, does anyone know if there are any resources for rebuild procedures, torque specs, etc. for the 1 ton?

 

[extech]

if you like your old gear ratio you can just swap the pumpkins. the diff is the same one used in the pick ups. differences are in the brakes and wheel bearings

[fred heath]

GO82 is a special 3/4 ton axle. The setup is not the same as the pickup.

Nothing is interchangeable between the two.

 

The GO82 is 4.10, the 6 lug is also 4.10 (I believe). Makes no sense to swap the pumpkin even if you could.

Edited August 22, 2023 by fred heath

[linda s]

Yes makes no sense to swap and get the same ratio. The one from the Dolphin is newer, might be in better shape. Quite a few people have switched to a 4.56 or even a 4.88 dif for increased performance,

Linda S

[extech]

so whats the code on a 1 ton dually axle

[linda s]

Mine is G292. 8 inch, 4.10 ratio, 2 pinion. 

Linda S 

[Olds77421]

Thanks for the info, all. It's definitely helpful. I plan on keeping the 4.30's in there, since the vehicle also has a W55 trans with OD.

 

I'm looking more for the step-by-step process and specs for the rebuild. Mainly, backlash, pinion nut torque, etc. Resources for the semi-floating rear ends are plentiful but below are the only two links I've been able to find and I can't verify the specs (or find PNs for anything.)

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120/need-info-repack-bearings-do-brakes-1-ton-full-floating-rear-axle-wheels-268282/

https://www.differentials.com/technical-help-2/set-up-specs/

 

A FSM would be SUPER helpful if anyone has a line on one.

 

[linda s]

Here are a couple of items you need to know. Apparently you can put your old pumpkin in the full floater and you need to. Axle flange won't fit your old drive shaft if you don't.

 

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Posted September 23, 2014 · IP  (edited)

  On 5/20/2008 at 9:49 PM, Diesel_Aggie said:

If anyone has put the '87 up DRW axle in a 1979-1983 Toyota RV please contact me. I'm still not sure how the later model rear end attaches to the older body style. Is fabrication required?

I put the so-called "1 ton" rear axle in my 1978 Chinook. The donor rear axle came from a 1987 dually box-truck. The OEM semi-floating 5 lug axle (like you have) is rated for around 1 1/2 tons max weight. The dually so-called "1 ton" full-floating axle with 6 X 7.25" lugs is rated for 2 1/2 tons. In itself the term "1 ton" axle is kind of useless.

Here are the changes I had to make to install that dually full-floater in my 1978 Toyota.

#1 - the axle tubes are different diameters. So U-bolts with a different curve are needed to be made or bought that clamp the axle-tube to the springs.

#2 - since the axle tubes have different diameters, the bottom brackets that the U-bolts attach to also need to changed.

#3 - the shock mounts are different. 1978 has both shocks mounted in front of the axle and the bottoms attach to the spring-u-bolt brackets. Later trucks have staggered-mount shocks. Toyota never made the front-mount brackets for the larger axle tubes so some fabrication is needed.

#4 - the frame rails and spring-packs are closer together on the older trucks. So a newer axle - like a 1987 - will need to have the spring perches cut off and rewelded closer together to mate with the springs and frame-rails on an older truck.

#5 - the rear stabilizer-bar from a later full-floater can be attached to the narrower-spaced older frame-rails if you make new brackets for the stabilizer-link-ends.

I've installed later full floaters into two older 70s Toyota trucks and have plenty of specs and photos if wanted.

•  

 

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• Posted September 23, 2014 ·  

One other item I forgot to mention. The older trucks have small U-joints on the driveshaft and the old driveshaft flange will not bolt up to the the flange-hub on a newer full-floating dually axle. Also, you cannot take the flange-hub off the older semi-floater and install on the newer full-full floater because the spines on the pinion input are different. One fix is to get an aftermarket pinion flange for the duallly rear that comes with multiple bolt patterns. Another fix is to just take the Hotchkiss center-section (with the ring & pinion assembly) out of your old semi-floater and swap it into the dually full-floater. It is a bolt-in swap and works fine.

• The member who posted these is no longer active here but he can be found here
• toyotachinook@groups.io | Home
• Or you can search Facebook. I know he has a couple of groups there. His name is John Demarrais. 
• Linda S

[linda s]

If you can find John he's all you need. He knows exactly what to do and he's usually pretty helpful. Post on the IO site but definitely look at Facebook too. Might also use the handle sirwrenchalot. 

[Olds77421]

Thanks this is incredibly helpful. Should be fine in terms of fabrication to make the new axle work. I'll make sure to post an update on the process for posterity. Also, If I'm reading that all correctly, I think I can use my center section and just swap over the ring and pinion (if they're in good shape) from the old to the new to make everything work. 

 

Now I just need to track down some new bearings and seals for everything! 

[linda s]

Bearings and seals should all be available on Rock Auto. Can't see the wheels on your rig but I think all the full floats have the same parts so you need to be looking at 87 and newer trucks. Make sure it says for a double wheel or WT or cab and camper. Not the same as a regular truck.

Linda S

[IdahoDoug]

Super helpful.  I finished a large home improvement project last week and by agreement with my wife, I am now green lighted to start on the Sunrader. 

[Toycollector47]

Bearings and seals from Napa…