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Looking for some insight into owning a Toyota RV


Hill

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Hello all!

I hope this is okay to post here. After quite a bit of research, my husband and I are seriously looking into getting a Toyota RV (to the point we're planning a 10+ hour drive to go see one that's for sale for a decent price in good enough shape we can probably drive it home and has the 6 lug upgrade for safety). We're interested in the Toyota RV because of its size, gas mileage for its size, price, reliability, quality of Toyota, and that we don't have to tow anything.

 

Before we make the plunge, I thought I'd see if any experienced owners can share some insight into how much time/money you spend maintaining your Toyota RV. We know we're getting a 40+ year old vehicle that will likely have issues right off the bat and will likely have more going forward. We, of course, want to keep it running and also need to clean and prevent mold (I'm asthmatic). We're both pretty handy with basic home type repairs (plumbing, painting, etc although neither of us has much electrical experience). My husband can do basic car stuff (oil, battery/alternator, brakes, etc.). We still need to research if there's anyone in town that can do big repairs that might come up, but we live in a medium/small city right next to another small city so the chances are pretty decent. But, we both work full time jobs and are hoping to spend more time actually camping in it than fixing/working on it. I know a lot will depend on the kind of shape it's in when we get it, but we'd appreciate anyone willing to share their experience with their Toyota RV. How much time did it take to get everything in working order and how much time do you spend keeping it that way? Rough estimate of costs?

 

Thanks so much!

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Make sure appliances all work. Ask them to have the refrigerator running and cold. Check that the furnace. hot water heater and air conditioning work too. Appliances are very expensive. Check date code on tires. Old tires are a no no. 6 years old and they need replacing.

There is no way to give you an estimate of repair cost. Some people have bought these rigs that needed nothing more than a tune-up and others have spent thousands restoring theirs. 

If you can send us a link to the ad we can sometimes see issues just from the pictures or sometimes from evasive descriptions. If they say it gets 20 miles per gallon doubt every word they say. 

Linda S

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Your expense will depend on whether you are willing to tackle the mechanical issues or pay someone to do it for you. Look hard all over the ceiling, below the windows, around the vents, in the cabinets, and throughout the bunk area for water intrusion. Plan on sealing the water out right away; if no leaks get on the roof and assess how recent the roof was coated and plan on coating and taking care of it. 

 

Toyota 22re versions are not difficult to work on. A lot of information online as it has remained a very popular motor world wide. Parts are available and information on repairing most anything.   There will be work to be done unless the previous owner spent a lot of time sorting it.  The 22re was designed to not leak any fluid. If you see leaks of any kind on the motor or the ground plan on taking care of it. 

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Thank you! A few of the ones I've seen for sale list the reason for selling as not having the time or money to keep working on it, so I started wondering if I would be getting in over my head :). The one we were looking at already sold so we're still searching. We did see this one: https://inventory.smokymountainautosales.com/cars-for-sale/1124/1986-toyota-sun-land-express   . We were told the staining on the one side was because it was near a fire so I wondered what sort of important things might be damaged from heat that you wouldn't be able to see. The countertop that holds the stove is warped, but not sure if that was from the heat of the fire or something else. It's been for sale for quite a while (4 months) which gives me pause since a lot of the ones you see sell in a couple of weeks. There's another in WV recently posted that has a couple windows that need sealing. That doesn't seem to hard, but maybe that's too optimistic? The current owner has also never run any water through the system so he has no idea if it works or not. How accessible is the plumbing if there is any leaks that need repair or pumps to replace?

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You'll want the Smokey Mountain Auto to remove the rear hub caps to confirm it is a full floating rear axle. That is likely the reason it has been sitting. You do not want it if it doesn't have a full floating axle (look on here for information about full floating axle as it is very commonly discussed. 

 

Sealing windows is not difficult and requires mainly elbow grease. However, the damage that may have resulted from driving around with leaking windows over years may be another matter. 

 

The plumbing is different from model to model.  In most models you will have some of the tubing running through/ under walls to get from the water tank to the various locations. There is a water pump, a fresh water tank, and grey and black holding tanks. Have to wonder why previous owner didn't even try it? The tanks are not easy to come by and if any are damaged it will make the plumbing project more challenging depending on the extent of the damage. 

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This is an '86 Sunland Express  - the chassis is identical to mine and I can 100 percent guarantee that is a 1 ton full floater. I'd snatch that up if I had a place to put it. It looks to be in great shape and has the rare rear dinette setup. Someone took the time to do a nice remodel too. These campers also are built on an all aluminum frame which is uncommon. It's still 37 years old so you'll always have stuff to work on. Most importantly get a good look at the roof if you do go look at it.

2 hours ago, Scott iv said:

You'll want the Smokey Mountain Auto to remove the rear hub caps to confirm it is a full floating rear axle. That is likely the reason it has been sitting. You do not want it if it doesn't have a full floating axle (look on here for information about full floating axle as it is very commonly discussed.

 

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On 6/29/2023 at 9:01 PM, RiggerRob said:

This is an '86 Sunland Express  - the chassis is identical to mine and I can 100 percent guarantee that is a 1 ton full floater. I'd snatch that up if I had a place to put it. It looks to be in great shape and has the rare rear dinette setup. Someone took the time to do a nice remodel too. These campers also are built on an all aluminum frame which is uncommon. It's still 37 years old so you'll always have stuff to work on. Most importantly get a good look at the roof if you do go look at it.

 

Thanks! What are the benefits of the aluminum frame over the wood frame ones? The all fiberglass of the Sunrader clearly has advantages, but does the all aluminum also make leaking less likely or maybe easier to repair? The Sunland really does have a nice layout. Is there anything on the passenger side of the coach in Sunland that could have been damaged in high heat being next to a fire? There's another one available right now in great shape that is just a bit too far to go. Thanks!

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2 hours ago, Hill said:

Thanks! What are the benefits of the aluminum frame over the wood frame ones? The all fiberglass of the Sunrader clearly has advantages, but does the all aluminum also make leaking less likely or maybe easier to repair? The Sunland really does have a nice layout. Is there anything on the passenger side of the coach in Sunland that could have been damaged in high heat being next to a fire? There's another one available right now in great shape that is just a bit too far to go. Thanks!

 

Aluminum framed walls are more ideal because if and when water does get into the walls, rot happens, aluminum doesn't rot like wood. If the walls were framed with 100% wood, 100% of the wall will rot and disintegrate. With aluminum, at least you still have the strength of the aluminum holding the walls together, as well as an easier start to rebuilding a water rotted wall. For reference, here's a (low quality) photo of my Odyssey's aluminum wall framing.

 

IMG_0031.jpg.ee85c576c9172c3247bab1cbc5246785.jpg

 

 

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21 hours ago, Odyssey 4x4 said:

 

Aluminum framed walls are more ideal because if and when water does get into the walls, rot happens, aluminum doesn't rot like wood. If the walls were framed with 100% wood, 100% of the wall will rot and disintegrate. With aluminum, at least you still have the strength of the aluminum holding the walls together, as well as an easier start to rebuilding a water rotted wall. For reference, here's a (low quality) photo of my Odyssey's aluminum wall framing.

 

IMG_0031.jpg.ee85c576c9172c3247bab1cbc5246785.jpg

 

 

Thanks! Wow! I am definitely hoping to find one that doesn't need to be rebuilt from the ground up :D. Although that does look like fun!

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8 minutes ago, Hill said:

Thanks! Wow! I am definitely hoping to find one that doesn't need to be rebuilt from the ground up :D. Although that does look like fun!

 

It’s been a journey! 

 

IMG_0059.jpeg.fccc1d67c8060240c6de1060b5565edc.jpeg

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After all this, your going to go off roading in that. But you will scratch it😱

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19 hours ago, WME said:

After all this, your going to go off roading in that. But you will scratch it😱

 

haha I don't know if I'll be doing anything in this rig that I'd consider off-roading. For me the 4x4 and ground clearance just means I'll be able to get a bit further out than most RV's. I imagine light sand, mud, snow, etc. You certainly won't see me going down Lions Back in Utah! The ground clearance of the 4x4 is really the big advantage for me. Plus the rig was just too cool to pass up and bring back to life! 

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Purchased a 1986 Sun-Land Express (within 50 miles of home, got lucky) less than a year ago-----just now tackling the final readiness projects.  I downloaded an RV purchase checklist (for used RVs) ----- information was useful to me in making the purchase, which I didn't do until I had located capable, willing mechanics locally who liked the idea of having an old Toyota motorhome to work on.  Internet research was instrumental in alerting me to inspection points.  Knew mismatched, older-than-the-hills tires had to be replaced immediately (that issue alone drove the purchase price down by $1,000).  Pulled off the wheel rounds to check the rear axle; it passed muster as a one-ton dually.  Appliances worked, but the owner didn't use any of the systems (LP gas tank, water tanks)-----the LP tank passed a cursory visual inspection, so I had it filled.  I crawled underneath the engine bay and rear so as to check for rust.  Checked the engine bay-----fluid levels, leakage determination, condition of hoses, wires-----battery a respected brand with an installation date sticker on it). The frame, of course, is aluminum-----the exterior is original except for the add-on suspension air bags and a two-receiver tow hitch.  Careful inspection of the interior revealed that the original owner had remodeled it with easy-to-clean and suitable paneling everywhere-----walls, ceiling-----as well as replacing the carpet with laminate flooring.  Dry as the proverbial bone (in Florida),  rubber rooftop/vents intact (I did climb up to survey the area), so I bought it.  Fortunate that the seller (2nd owner) was forthright, truthful, and agreeable to adjusting the purchase price.  I left a deposit before leaving the meeting place.  I did pay for an inexpensive mechanical 'inspection' from one of the mechanics who will work on it (installed an additional oil cooler first week I had it).  Researched tires ad nauseam, then purchased.  Had furniture removed, because the first owner's remodel replaced the rear dinette with 2 swivel chairs and original floor-mounted tiny table for tv viewing (an item I don't need,  but thanked the seller anyway-----the newer Pioneer system, though, was greatly appreciated).  Don't need the weight-----I use alternatives for seating/food service.  Kept the lightweight couch. 

 

I'm an old lady without mechanical skills who hasn't regretted this purchase (already camped in it, tested out some systems).  It's true that my boondocking days are behind me; I expect to use shore power/H20 exclusively in relatively safe state parks (RV doesn't have a generator).  With mileage at 48,000 at purchase, I'm hoping for no major expenditures in the near future,  but expect these once I've added a few thousand in travel miles to the odometer.  Practice driving was a necessity for me, as this RV doesn't handle as smoothly as my old 1989 Class B campervan-----no power steering, for example.  Wouldn't trade it or sell it-----I don't mind cruising at 50 mph; I'm no longer rushing anywhere.

 

Good luck snaring one-----I'm sure you'll find just what you're looking for sooner than later.

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  • 3 months later...
On 6/24/2023 at 1:02 PM, linda s said:

Make sure appliances all work. Ask them to have the refrigerator running and cold. Check that the furnace. hot water heater and air conditioning work too. Appliances are very expensive. Check date code on tires. Old tires are a no no. 6 years old and they need replacing.

There is no way to give you an estimate of repair cost. Some people have bought these rigs that needed nothing more than a tune-up and others have spent thousands restoring theirs. 

If you can send us a link to the ad we can sometimes see issues just from the pictures or sometimes from evasive descriptions. If they say it gets 20 miles per gallon doubt every word they say. 

Linda S

Just figured out how to add the link.  I sent an entire paragraph previously but it didn't post. This is one I'm looking at, it's 1800 miles away, trying to determine if 1 way ticket is worth it because that's a long drive back by myself with no mechanical experience outside of where to put gas. I have no problem learning but not on a maiden voyage this far. I think it's been altered because from the inside there was a front facing window that's now covered. Not enough pictures to me of real things. Of course I would need to find a mechanic in that area or possibly pay for the pre rv inspection, which has increased in price from what I've seen other's pay. Unsure what questions I should ask upon contacting the seller if its still available. Would prefer rear dinette but I've not found any for sale in awhile. 

 

https://www.toyotarvforsale.com/1992-winnebago-toye-in-boise-id/

Edited by mokabronze
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That model didn't have a front window. Strange that it looks like one from the inside. I have no idea why. So, that's too far. Find one in Texas. Here's a nice looking one in San Marcos and way cheaper

1991 toyota winnebago warrior for sale by owner - San Marcos, TX - craigslist

Sooner or later you will find one but be patient. We have another new member who just went 800 miles to pick one up and had to have it towed most of the way home. He's got mechanical skills though. To be stuck somewhere after you spent so much money is not good

Linda S

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On 6/24/2023 at 1:02 PM, linda s said:

Make sure appliances all work. Ask them to have the refrigerator running and cold. Check that the furnace. hot water heater and air conditioning work too. Appliances are very expensive. Check date code on tires. Old tires are a no no. 6 years old and they need replacing.

There is no way to give you an estimate of repair cost. Some people have bought these rigs that needed nothing more than a tune-up and others have spent thousands restoring theirs. 

If you can send us a link to the ad we can sometimes see issues just from the pictures or sometimes from evasive descriptions. If they say it gets 20 miles per gallon doubt every word they say. 

Linda S

165 miles traveling would be a better trek on my end, thank goodness I work for the airlines so that's one expense I won't have no matter the location. In reference to mileage I know Toyota's are pretty good as in my young adult life that's all I owned, I was just hoping to find something a little lower. I will contact the owners though. It looks to have the same layout. From looking at the link I posted, did anything stand out to you? What are your thoughts on the independent TV inspectors, would it be worthwhile? Thank you so much for responding, the search continues.

 

 

Just figured out how to add the link. 

 

https://www.toyotarvforsale.com/1992-winnebago-toye-in-boise-id/

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This is near Austin at a dealership. You should go take a look at it. Mileage as good as a Toyota or better. I used to have one similar and they are great RV's. don't know how the bidding thing works but you have time to go see it before bidding ends. 

No Reserve: 1993 Chevrolet Astro CL AWD Provan Tiger GT Camper for sale on BaT Auctions - ending October 18 (Lot #124,367) | Bring a Trailer

Linda S

 

 

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As you consider the 6 cyl Toyota motorhomes be sure to ask about when the valves were last checked. I see the one had a timing chain replace but that still doesn't mean they checked the valves. The 3vze motor requires hands on maintenance with the valves as does the 22re. Many dead 3vze's because the valve clearance checks were avoided. Can go about 100k before valve clearance becomes a serious issue requiring major time and expense (totaled to many).  The 3vze valve clearance check takes shop time as it requires specific tools to hold down the buckets while you measure the clearance, and if the valves are tight, replacement shims have to be ordered (most shops won't have the shims readily on hand). A costly regular interval maintenance job if you want to keep the machine alive long term.  It'd be worth purchasing the tool needed to hold down the shim buckets so you can learn to do the job at home if you own one. 

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2 minutes ago, Scott iv said:

As you consider the 6 cyl Toyota motorhomes be sure to ask about when the valves were last checked. I see the one had a timing chain replace but that still doesn't mean they checked the valves. The 3vze motor requires hands on maintenance with the valves as does the 22re. Many dead 3vze's because the valve clearance checks were avoided. Can go about 100k before valve clearance becomes a serious issue requiring major time and expense (totaled to many).  The 3vze valve clearance check takes shop time as it requires specific tools to hold down the buckets while you measure the clearance, and if the valves are tight, replacement shims have to be ordered (most shops won't have the shims readily on hand). A costly regular interval maintenance job if you want to keep the machine alive long term.  It'd be worth purchasing the tool needed to hold down the shim buckets so you can learn to do the job at home if you own one. 

I'm really seeing the value in women learning something about vehicles, my curve is very short. Also I noticed the year the timing belt was changed, it was 9,000 miles or so but in 1998. I have no idea if that makes a difference. I realize in loving these vintage RV's, I will have to put some $$ in it, but I'm hoping I can find something that was well maintained by its owner(s) and after purchasing not too much $$ initially. Maybe that's wanting a bit much. I'm sure it's apparent I'm an RV newbie. 

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You're doing the right thing by asking a lot of questions before buying. Ask away as a lot of folks here learned from many mistakes and there is a lot of owner knowledge. 

 

An old timing chain with low miles shouldn't matter, however, an old low mile motor is not always a good thing. Seems counter intuitive. A lot of people will jump on a low mileage vehicle. But modern motors (70's to present especially) have gaskets that rely on a regular soaking of oil or whatever other fluid they are in place to hold. The gaskets dry out when not used regularly and then fail when they are re exposed to the heat a motor produces. 

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Just to clarify for mokabronze: the 3VZE (ie 6 cylinder) has a timing belt not a chain, unlike the 4-cyl… while an old, low mileage chain might not be a big concern, the belt is a different matter.

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That is good to know, I'm trying not to become discouraged. I'm seeing so many people who purchase and there's tons of wood rot. I don't think I have the bandwidth to get in there and do a total/partial rebuild. Maybe with help, but alone and all the learning curves it would take me more than a year. I'm ready to retire but realistically should wait 2 more years, so I would only have a few hrs per day with exception of off days to even attempt the labor intensive process. Dang singledom has been a peaceful notion til I embarked on this dream... I need another set of hands now... let him be both a carpenter and mechanical. LoL. Kidding with a lil' bit of truth. 

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Just now, Ctgriffi said:

Just to clarify for mokabronze: the 3VZE (ie 6 cylinder) has a timing belt not a chain, unlike the 4-cyl… while an old, low mileage chain might not be a big concern, the belt is a different matter.

I was just going by the info the web site provided. Thanks for that info though. As I stated my knowledge of vehicles is minimal gas, oil change and how to change a tire and maintenance. I do know belts can be old and brittle or just worn. I learned that the hard way on a Isuzu in my 30's, I had to get a new vehicle because of it. A belt partially split, I kept driving because I was on the freeway and it tore up all the wiring. Supposedly fixed then it wouldn't go over 10 mph. It was too much trouble and long term attempting to figure out. That's when you realize your vehicle is a much needed appendage. Expensive lesson teaching the importance of proper maintenance. 

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Mine is for sale and it is ready to drive cross country today. Motor has been gone through. All seals and gaskets replaced. Brand new exhaust system. CAÍ. Ready to hit the road today. 

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15 hours ago, Jashrush said:

Mine is for sale and it is ready to drive cross country today. Motor has been gone through. All seals and gaskets replaced. Brand new exhaust system. CAÍ. Ready to hit the road today. 

Where are you located, year/model/mileage etc. ? Do you have any very clear pictures posted online of your rig? 

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2 hours ago, mokabronze said:

Where are you located, year/model/mileage etc. ? Do you have any very clear pictures posted online of your rig? 

Laurel, MS. It’s a 1986 Toyota Sunrader. 21 foot. I have it listed for sale on here and on eBay. As well as Craigslist. Here is the ad.
 https://hattiesburg.craigslist.org/tro/d/laurel-1986-sunrader-make-offer/7670126596.html

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You might also post the VIN on eBay. For the amount of money you’re asking people will want to do a vehicle history check.

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22 minutes ago, fred heath said:

You might also post the VIN on eBay. For the amount of money you’re asking people will want to do a vehicle history check.

Thanks. You are correct. I have been meaning to add that to the listing. Unfortunately eBay won’t let me change anything on the listing at this time. But that information is available to anyone who wants it. 

Edited by Jashrush
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1 hour ago, linda s said:

Can you not see that your title is "rvs campers used". Not only that look at the designation above it. This is where you posted it. Under travel trailers

  • eBay Motors> RVs &Campers> Towable RVs & Campers> Travel Trailers

Not too worried about it. Plus, the listing can not be changed at this moment as I am entertaining several offers. Are you even an interested buyer? 

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